Don Jr.

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About Don Jr.

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  1. Hi, yes the ends come apart. Adjustable plug on ends then spring and hardened cup. Ball fits in then other hardened cup a spring . Parts I have do not make the ball tight.
  2. Yes! The drag link is hollow with grease fittings at each end. The parts install from the ends. Just do not know if the drag link I have is correct or not. Found a couple more in the back seat along with the one I believe is correct for the Dodge. Will try rare parts as you suggested. Thanks.
  3. Hi, I found a drag link in the back seat of the Touring we are restoring. It is missing the guts on each end. I tried Model A ford parts and they fit in the ends but the springs come up too short. Looks like each end has a different length for the parts to fit in. Is this correct? Also the full length of the link is 27 3/4 inches end to end. Is this the correct one for the 21 touring? Trying to secure parts and want to be sure I am rebuilding it correctly. Looking at a parts book it appears there are long springs on each end and the inside cups have tails that fit into tube to secure it. Thanks for any help on this, Don.
  4. Looking for the guts for the drag link that connects the left front spindle arm to the steering box arm. Either the complete unit or the innards for both ends. Thankd, Don.
  5. Hi, the drag link is correct for the touring. Well it turns out the drag link had a small chink in it. I was able to straighten it out. The model A drag link parts although fit inside the ends they come up too short for the link so I will have to hunt down the guts for both ends. Thought that was way too easy if they fit. Thanks for the info!!
  6. Hi, Today's challenge is restoring I believe the correct drag link that connects the steering arm to the left front spindle. I found it in the back of the car and it is bare with no parts inside it. I tried Model A ford innards and they look like they fit. Would this be correct Also the hollow link rod is bent a bit near the end of one side. Should the link have a bend from the factory or has someone bent it . Thanks, Don.
  7. Hi, there were 2 sleeve bushings in the lower end. I replaced them..I agree with you that there should either be a lower seal or an end cap. Mine is missing the end cap if that is what should be there. Did not know if something else should slide in there as it is about 1 3/8 inches from the end of the box and where the worm shaft ends.Just a smooth bore where I pushed the new bronze sleeve bushing in. I can machine an aluminum plug to seal it off if that is all that fits there? Thanks.
  8. Hi, I cleaned up the steering box and replaced a few sleeve bearings. It came out great. My question is at the lower end of the steering box I have a hole which I can see the lower end of the steering worm shaft. It is about 1 3/8 inches deep and about 1 1/4 inches in diameter. It is machined out and appears something was once in this hole. I have no idea what fits in here. Does anyone know what is missing on the end?? Thanks Don.
  9. Fantastic, it looks like I have the newer wheel ( 24ish) in cast Aluminum and will need to locate a cast steel one with it attaching on the underside of the round wooden wheel. Contacting a site now to see what they have. O.K. That part of the restoration has been solved again by the forum. Thanks as always Don.
  10. Hi yes I watched his video. My problem is, do I have the correct steering wheel? Is there anybody on this site that has a 1921 and can verify which wheel I am supposed to have. Do not want to restore an incorrect wheel. Thanks.
  11. Hi, Thanks for the replies and appreciate it. My question is if this steering wheel is correct for a 1921 Touring before I invest any time in it. Some thought it was for a later car, Thanks.
  12. Here are a few shots of the wheel in question. Also a shot of the engine installed into the chassis. Please let me know if the photos come out O.K. Don
  13. Hi, O.K. I took some photos and will attempt to post them. I looked up how to do it and I will have to reduce the size of the file so people can see it. What I can tell you it is the steering wheel is 17 inches in diameter, 1 inch wide on top and 7/8 inch on bottom with small circles on bottom to allow a better grip.Wheel is 1 /1/2 inches thick. Hole in center is 865 on top and 875 on bottom so assume a taper with one key. Number on bottom of Aluminum spoke is C-18866 with a square raised box with an S inside it. The spokes are embedded into the center of the wood as you described. The wheel was bolted to the shaft and the nut on top was not solid and domed but had a hole in it missing something and now assume a horn button!! This has been a big puzzle to determine what is correct and what is not for the car so again appreciate the help and do apologize for all the questions I post. Have 2 rods that look like radiator support rods to keep radiator and shell from bouncing around but they do not fit radiator or firewall! There is a loop on one end of the rod and bent and at the other end again a short bend and thread on it. Located a single rod that looks like it does fit the car so will try that on and see if it correct. Determined had parts of a Model A ford steering column mixed in with the Dodge steering column parts so got them separated and believe I have all the parts for the column and rods that connect the to the carb and distributor advance hopefully!! I am working outdoors so I am at the mercy of the weather and it has rained constantly almost every day so I wait until it stops uncover the car and attempt another repair/installation as I restore the pieces. Discovered the cut out modification for the starter box and in the process of modifying it and restoring the box.Thanks.
  14. Hi, Have never posted photos on this site but will try. Tried to pull wheel back in shape with clamps to see if repair is feasible and fell apart!! Maybe not salvageable.Thanks.