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Don Jr.

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Everything posted by Don Jr.

  1. I solicided info from other members with this year Dodge. Engine is snuggled right up to firewall and body bolt holes are a bit elongated so I fit up front fenders to be sure they were in the correct position. Front fenders have to bolt down to the running board irons sticking out on each side.. Then I put bolts along each side to the end of the front tub where the body was cut off to make a pickup bed. I then bolted the rear tub up nice and square to the rear most holes in the tub down to the frame. I installed the rear fenders to be sure they were hung correctly and mated to the rear most running board irons. Then I quickly mounted the side splash aprons to be sure they will connect up.. Snugged them up too. Hung the rear doors and as I said right rear Door fits well in the opening but the damn left rear doors is wonky a bit. Pinched at the top.maybe I can loosen the hinges of the door and fudge it in.. I measured both sides of the front and rear tubs to a predetermined location To be sure everything is square on the frame. Very tedious work so going slow as I do not want to butcher those lower body pieces that are hard to find. Thanks. If you get any measurements on rear door openings would like to see how close I am before I cut things up.
  2. Hi Saw this last night. I have a 1921 Touring and mine was missing the back half. Someone threw a 1918 rear tub on it cut of course and bolted it on the frame. Took me 20 some odd years to find a back half. Mine cost $400.00 for a complete wreck frame and body. Sawed off the rear half I needed and gave away the rest. I bolted the front of the car to the frame and bolted the rear half to the frame. I had to locate the pieces that are under the the rear doors and am in the process of fitting them in. The bolt holes in the body are not exact so you have room to wiggle it a bit. i hung the right rear door on the rear tub and gave myself about 1/8 of an inch clearance to close so that will work. But my left rear door I need to tweek the opening open more somehow as the door does not fit well. Was hoping someone could give me measurements with rear doors open front to back. I have the rear tub aligned correctly as the rear fenders and splash aprons depend on correct spacing. I am trying to figure out my restitching job at the moment as you will need to do.
  3. Sorry to hear of his passing. As others said he was a wealth of information. He helped me out several times in determining my 1921 Dodge Touring. It was a mix of different years that I purchased many years ago. He saved the day many times and other folks on this forum keep me in the right direction to get it road worthy. Thoughts and prayers to his family.
  4. When I worked for a Ford dealer in the early 1970's we were sent down to Maw wah in New Jersey to the assembly line for an evening shift to see how the cars were built. One of the operations was a pinstriping area. As I recall a jig of sorts was suspended above the line and the worker pulled the jig down and attached it to the side of the car. He then walked along and had a tool that rode the track that had the paint in it. Took less than a minute to stripe a car. One guy on each side of the car. I was very impressed as to how a car was built that night.
  5. Hope everyone has a great Christmas and a happy new year with friends and family.
  6. Looks like a Shinn-Fu brand. Rebuilding one right now. My model is G-818. Other identical one is a Brute brand. Hope this helps. Acquiring seals for it now.
  7. I have the Ford inertia one located in the cockpit under the seat of my 2 man car. If for any reason it trips the riding mechanic can reset it. I can switch from a hand pump when a riding mechanic is available or switch to hand pump going solo.
  8. Thank you very much! You have bailed me out in the past and appreciate it.
  9. Hi Again, I looked over the front fenders this morning that were bolted on the car. It looks like I have different bracing underneath the 2 front fenders. Right side fender has brace on a diagonal angle to prevent oil canning. The left front fender has the braces horizontal. So assume this was a running change or different year fenders? And i was given a sight to determine front fender years. Something about headlight mounts. Early fenders are riveted on and later ones bolted on. Is this referring to the actual mounts that hold the headlights on the fender? Both fenders have riveted mounts.
  10. Thank you. Shaping the right rear off the car is like dressing a worm. The right fender is the one that was missing the front extension and thru looking thru several photos and searching I discovered that beginning in 1920 the rear springs were extended to 45 inches. So I ended up with the correct left rear fender and extension. Fell right into place. But the right rear needed modification on that extension. Have it roughed out now and bolted but needs tweaking to be correct. I will remeasure the left rear to the right rear to make them match. Front fenders are banged up too. Bolted them up and have fit issues too. Slowly working them into shape. The old Dodge spent it's whole life on a farm from new to about 1970. Barley ran when purchased by second owner and stored in a barn. He must have gathered missing parts and just flopped them in the car when I purchased it. A real mix of different year parts so has been a puzzle figuring out what is correct and what is not. Appreciate the support of the Forum.
  11. O.K. The right one on the end was crushed more than the left one. I made a cardboard template of the left one to mirror the right one to be the same as the left one when I beat it back into shape. Will dig out my guides and recheck. I matched up my right rear to the early build 1921 I went to look at and it was the same as his. I did not bring my left rear to match it. Guess the question is which one would be correct. Cannot tell from internet photos. Thanks.
  12. Right rear fender is lower on end than left rear fender.
  13. Yes, both have that. Did not notice length at end until I bolted both on the car. Both rear fenders have the oblong holes for mounting and are arranged the same. I took the right rear fender with me and visited another 1921 Touring a few months ago as I had an issue when hanging the right rear fender as the hole for greasing the rear spring front shackle was hidden underneath the extension by about 3/4 of an inch forward of the hole. I measured his rear spring mounts same as mine so assumed there was a change in late 21 as opposed to his early 21 touring. My fender matched his exactly so I extended that extension I purchased separately as it was missing on my fender. Bolted everything up and looks good. Sooo yesterday I mounted the left rear fender with the running board splash apron on the car. Well it fit like a glove and the grease fitting was right in the middle of the hole. Standing back my son noticed the left rear fender was hanging just below the rear shackle but the right rear is hanging about1 1/2 inch longer than the left one. I will photograph both and submit them later today. Trying to determine which one is correct. Both rear fenders were crumpled up from years past backing into the barn I assume but not bad enough to have both of them this far off. Gee cannot wait to hang the front fender! Thanks for the help.
  14. Hi, I have been struggling with this 1921 touring which had as told had the wrong rear half on it when purchased. It had a 1917 back half just bolted to the frame as forum identified for me. It also had 1917 running board splash aprons just stuffed in car which again forum identified. I now have the correct running board splash aprons. I now have the correct back half bolted to the frame and lined up. I located the missing pieces under the rear doors that were always missing. I hung the rear fenders and now the 2 rear fenders hang down at different length's at the back. The left rear tip hangs about 1/2 inch below lowest point of rear spring shackle and it looks correct. The right rear fender tip hangs about 2 1/2 inches below the lowest portion of the rear spring shackle and does not look correct. My question is which rear fender would be correct. Both were in the car when I purchased this mutt. Touring fenders different from coupes or sedans? Does anyone have a photo of rear fenders showing proper location to shackles. Thanks for any help on this.
  15. Hi, I received a call from a gentleman from New Zealand this afternoon about the scam someone used from the above ligetimate business. If he would please give me the info for the wheel adapters he is looking to purchase for a TR-7. I had trouble with the phone conversation connection and want to try and see if I can help him out with his request. I cannot find his post here on the forum with his original request. Thanks Don.
  16. Hi, I looked up this address you gave me. It shows a business named KO Motorsports. A guy by the name of Kevin O'Connor is there. They do high end auto work and restorations. They list a number 518-415-2027. Give them a call to see what is going on? They have many great reviews on line. Possibly someone is running a scam using their business. I am traveling today and will have limited internet service thru the weekend but you can reach me on my cell phone number to further discuss this issue. Mine is 518-495-5569. Thanks
  17. Hi, I live close by Saratoga Springs. Do you have an address I can check out for you? Any other identifying info to track him down?
  18. Hi, Thanks for all the responses. I did some checking and I have the correct rear fenders for 1921 Touring. Matched it up exactly to another 21 Touring built 5 months before mine but my chassis has the front of the rear shackle mount 1 inch forward of the other Dodge I looked at. Both cars have correct wheelbase. My chassis was not modified as best I can tell. The rear of the shackles on the other 21 is identical to mine so assume I have a longer rear springs needing the front shackle to be moved up 1 inch. Knowing I have the correct rear fenders I am going to remove the for lack of better terms the rear fender extensions spot welded to the front of the fenders and lengthen them 1 inch and this will give me the grease fitting where it will be centered. And while I was fitting things up discovered I had 1918 running board splash aprons that were in the car when purchased. Luckily I bought a set of repro 1921 splash aprons some time ago and they fit perfectly. Hope I am out of trouble on this. Really appreciate all the support on my "Franken Dodge" as I am referring to her forum and members are extending to me. And found a few oval washers as someone posted in my bolt bucket for the rear fenders. Will make some knockoffs. Thanks to all until I find the next stumbling block.
  19. Hi, Just spent time looking on line to get close ups of this area of cars. I see that the grease fitting is dead nuts in the center of the extension. I gave away the rear half of the touring that had those brackets that attach the fenders to the body when it was purchased many years ago. The rear fenders I have were just piled in the car an they did not fit that early rear half. I have all the doors that were with it also. Possibly have the wrong fenders? The front half of the body is a 21 as I checked that out many years ago. All the running gear also checked out the same. i am going to try and hang rear doors on tomorrow to see how they fit. I will try and post photos. Again I am doing something wrong when I attempt to do this. Photos I take are in my computer but cannot transfer them to the site. Yes want to post them. I need to find another 21 Touring or other years that are the same in the rear close by to take measurements. Never see Dodge Bros. cars around here. I am a member of DB club. Rodger helps me out as I find issues that crop up. O.K. Thank you for direction on this. Hopefully post photos tomorrow.
  20. Yes it had one. I saw the spot welds where the original was cut off on the right rear fender. I marked them on a piece of cardboard then ground the stubs off. And they corresponded to the replacement extension. I placed the left rear fender right next to the right rear fender after I clamped the extension on it on the ground. They mirrored each other. I guess I will ask this again. How do I determine if I have the correct back half of a 1921 Touring.? The one I have was purchased at an estate sale a few years ago for me at an auction and was told it was for 1921. What years fit 1921 Touring. The body I bought was a wreck and I cut off the back half for my car. Car originally came with a cut off back end (ala pickup truck). That back end was an early one with the brackets that bolted to the fender and the body. Had a railway express tag on it from out West. Everything looks to fit properly except the grease access holes are wonky.
  21. Hi, working over rear fenders and hung them on the body. I see there is plenty of adjustment to shift the fenders back and forth . I set them so I have centered the front mounting holes to the running board brackets. Adjusted the fenders themselves to look proper at the rear. My problem is the access hole to the grease fitting is not centered up or down. Is this the norm or do I have an issue. The left fender is complete with the extension ( what ever it is called) and has not been damaged. The right rear is not original to the car and the extension was missing. I located another extension and clamped it to the fender mirroring the left fender to check things out before I weld it on. The right rear fender is just as bad. Thanks.
  22. Thank you. That is what I was looking for. Appreciate it. I can shape my new fender washers to look like OEM. And apologize for the delay on answering. For some reason my login does not always come in so I do not get the mail notification. My wonky computer.
  23. Hi, I do not have any remnants or part number. The cowl is part of a period 1930's race car I am trying to get back together. Identified as a 1919 . The hood on it ( not original ) to an overland sits on top of the cowl and see holes for rivets. Did not know how wide and high and weather original was double bump style with rivets in the center of the valley or just plain flat webbing. Do not want the rear of the hood sticking up too much. I will check out some suppliers. Thanks for the reply, appreciate it.
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