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1956 TBird questions


StylishOne

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Hemmings has a slew of baby bird listings.   The biggest things that will set the value are condition, options and the car's history if available.  Hemmings will likely have listings that are representative of the value points of the car you are trying to put a value on or sell.

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I can find any 2-seater 'Bird, any color, any options (not E- or F-code, of course) in good running condition with no needs for $30-32,000. There are always at least 70-80 others for sale and 15 others in that color combination. It is not a good time to sell a 2-seat Thunderbird, but there will never be a better time, either. Price it relative to others in its condition and it should sell in a reasonable amount of time. Do not over-estimate its condition or appeal. It's probably worth 20% less than you think.

 

Remember that buyers shop price and price alone, and the early T-Bird market is just about the most crowded marketplace of all. Don't over-think it and assume that little stuff matters--it doesn't on these cars. They're commodities and most buyers view one as being just the same as any other. Sure, if it's full of bondo, that's a significant discount. But if it's not full of bondo, there's exactly 0 value add. Nobody will pay extra for such a car no matter how nice, so price it in the fat part of the curve and get it gone--if someone shows up with $25,000, take it. That's probably all the widow wants anyway, not to eke out every last penny of value possible.

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It's almost like you can gauge the economy on 2 seat Tbird sales, and 60's Mustang sales, of the average cars.   Special equipment cars or all out factory race cars aside.  Real good economy they are worth more,  it turns south and people dump them fast which crowds the market and drives the price down.  Could it be that maybe these aren't the hard core car guys and the casual hobbiest? I saw the same thing during my 10 year ownership of my 57.  I lied it and drove it speratically alot.  I think the next owner bought it and never drove it. I saw it for sale some time later and it looked the same as when I sold it,  7 years earlier.  I also ended up taking his 48 Plymouth Conv't on trade which sat so long it needed alot of work. 

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It takes an extraordinary D code Tbird to bring $30K in my opinion, too many out there that are nice drivers for $20,000 to $25,000.  According to the Tbird guru's a white car is as much as a 40% discount.  I will say this, if it is a good runner and you price it in that $20K range and put it out in the front yard it will sell, if you want $30K your going to have to work for it.

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Matt is spot on.  I've owned a dozen or more early Birds, and the prices are so easy to predict.  They're  a commodity, decide what year, color, options, and so forth, then go shopping.  If you have cash in hand, you should satisfy your wish list quickly, and in the 25-30K range will buy you a great driver. If you want a pristine show car, well, that's your problem...

 

Watch for rust, it sneaks into floor pans and the frame.  That said, not a huge problem, just be aware.

 

Doors seem to never fit, try to find one that has the LEAST gap between rear bottom of doors and body.  It's so common I gave up on it, don't know whether it's fit and finish, bad hinges, or just bad fit and finish.  Or Karma, who knows.

 

Tops are a big deal, so get one with both tops.  They both will leak, get towels to go on long trips. Perfect seals, all new?  Still need towels, maybe fewer but not much, they leak.  Period.

 

1955 nice cars, but hot, no vents in cowl, transmission will burn your leg (though this is common for all years)

 

1956 better, vents, marginally larger engine, continental kit so you can at least put a razor and a can of shaving foam in the trunk.

 

1957, different styling, not to my taste but a lot of people like them.

 

Buyers market, figure out what you want, then search for that car.  My favorite of the ones I owned was  a1955 with three speed, no overdrive, but what a wonderful car to go down the road....I drove it a LOT long ago..

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Yes, I see what you are seeing and on several other places like at the back bumper.  This appears to originally been a black car repainted white without stripping the old paint.  It's an older restoration, well maintained, but needing some touch up work.  I agree, it's a number 3, high 3 condition.

 

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Still not what  I'm noticing  n I think that's a rusty colored spot where that thick paint is chipped out..

 

Come on guys.. wheres a  good body man?   Enlarge pics of door jambs n trunk!  Unless these cars are made differently than any I know about.. i could be wrong! 

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27481.jpeg

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It looks like a quickie white over black paint job to me since whoever did the painting didn't mask the door locks. It is also missing the windlace that goes behind the seat. The door jam on the drivers side looks like it was replaced either by a patch panel or the fender that that side was replaced. It's not a perfect job but it isn't terrible either. As for the trunk it looks like there is another covering over the trunk floor that you will need to lift up to determine if everything is okay there.

I would definitely want to look underneath the car to be sure there aren't any rust issues. Price also depends on how the car runs. If it is low on power, runs hot, and wanders all over the road then that will bring down the price. 

Suggest that you write down the information on the data plate (on the firewall) and post it here. We can tell some more information about the car with that. Did the owner get the factory invoice from CTCI?

I agree with Dave and Matt's comments for the most part. Part of what affects 2 seat T-Bird prices is the survival rate of these cars, which in my opinion is among the highest of the 1950's cars as a percentage total sales. Supply and demand is key.

Good luck with the sale.

Best regards,

Lew Bachman

1957 T-Bird Colonial White

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Don't kill this car.  It's an older restoration.  I see other issues with the paint job in the jams, but overall it's a 3 to 3+ car.  You have to evaluate all the + and - of the car to arrive at an overall value.  I'd be more interested in the underside of the car to further evaluate the condition rather that focus on these areas.  Note that the door strikers should not be painted and there is weather stripping missing on the door surround based on the holes in the body.  Also there is overspray from the paint job on the driver kick panel.  Still a number 3 or 3+ car.  Lots of plus areas to it.

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12 minutes ago, 1957Birdman said:

It looks like a quickie white over black paint job to me since whoever did the painting didn't mask the door locks. It is also missing the windlace that goes behind the seat. The door jam on the drivers side looks like it was replaced either by a patch panel or the fender that that side was replaced. It's not a perfect job but it isn't terrible either. As for the trunk it looks like there is another covering over the trunk floor that you will need to lift up to determine if everything is okay there.

I would definitely want to look underneath the car to be sure there aren't any rust issues. Price also depends on how the car runs. If it is low on power, runs hot, and wanders all over the road then that will bring down the price. 

Suggest that you write down the information on the data plate (on the firewall) and post it here. We can tell some more information about the car with that. Did the owner get the factory invoice from CTCI?

I agree with Dave and Matt's comments for the most part. Part of what affects 2 seat T-Bird prices is the survival rate of these cars, which in my opinion is among the highest of the 1950's cars as a percentage total sales. Supply and demand is key.

Good luck with the sale.

Best regards,

Lew Bachman

1957 T-Bird Colonial White

 

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I agree with 61 Polara. This is an older restoration. It is going to show wear but I don't see anything out of the ordinary. For a lightly optioned car (automatic transmission, radio and heater, and backup lights) in this condition and missing the convertible top I would think $25K would be a strong offer.

 

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Lew. Thanks man..  You got it..yes the drivers  door jamb  look at the spot welding job.. so fluted.  see the other side? Compare.

The trunk worried me more as it has a complete metal overlay cut out where body mounts and trunk hinges are. And painted awfully  with paint sliding down the patch panel.   The skirt on drivers side sits in at the rear.  Gaps arent even all over. Look at the engine red painted areas  .. doesnt look prepped.. is the rear bumper on all 56s with corner exhaust ports ?  I felt under the right rear inner quarter  there's a  hole  up there.  

My guess ..it's a poor quality redo decent from 20 ft.. car has curb appeal but I'm not really sure what's under all that quick fluff.

Btw where is the data tag on this car??  Didn't see one on door jamb or notice one on the cowl.. 

Educate me on this.. is this a 312 ? 

I dont know TBirds as well as I know Cads Buicks Imperial n Lincoln or Clouds...never had one. 

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It is a 312/225 HP, assuming it has the original engine. It definitely has the right type of engine, meaning a Y-Block. The gaps of any early T-Bird are not going to be like modern car's, but they shouldn't be too wide either. 

The data plate is located on the firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger side. It will have the serial number (no VIN in 1956) starting with P6FH______ . It will also show body, color, trim, and production codes. I will be able to translate it once you post it.

All 56 T-Birds have corner exhaust ports. 

Try to find out if the owner was a member of CTCI. If he was a he may have gotten a copy of the factory invoice. There is also good information on that, including the which Ford dealer sold the car originally. 

I would go along the lower part of the car with a magnet to see how much bondo there might be. If you can take any pictures of the inner rockers underneath the car that would be helpful. It will give us an idea of any rust issue there.

Once you figure out exactly what you are working with then I would have the car serviced and drive it some, especially if it hasn't been driven in a while. It sure makes a difference when selling a car if the car runs well.

Regards,

lew

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I know nothing about these cars, but if it ran good, handled good, was not falling apart underneath, I would easily spend 20k (if I had it!) In spite of all of the above detrimental comments it looks like a great car to cruise around on the weekends. 

I think the market for these is light right now, for the sake of settling an estate list it at a low reasonable cost and sell it relatively quickly.

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The data plate is silver with a black decal overlaying it. If you open the hood and look into the engine compartment from the passenger side it is on the firewall to the right of the heater blower assembly. It is possible that it was painted over when the car was restored and that is the reason that it isn't easy to see. If that is the case you should still be able to see the numbers as they are stamped in the data plate.

 

In terms of figuring out the value of this car I would suggest looking at completed sales on Ebay. That will give you a good 30K foot view of what cars are selling for currently. I agree that the lack of a convertible top reduces the value. If the new owner wants to get one the cost will be at least $2,500 or more depending on what the person decides to get.

Best regards,

Lew Bachman

1957 T-Bird

 

 

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31 minutes ago, 1957Birdman said:

The data plate is silver with a black decal overlaying it. If you open the hood and look into the engine compartment from the passenger side it is on the firewall to the right of the heater blower assembly. It is possible that it was painted over when the car was restored and that is the reason that it isn't easy to see. If that is the case you should still be able to see the numbers as they are stamped in the data plate.

 

In terms of figuring out the value of this car I would suggest looking at completed sales on Ebay. That will give you a good 30K foot view of what cars are selling for currently. I agree that the lack of a convertible top reduces the value. If the new owner wants to get one the cost will be at least $2,500 or more depending on what the person decides to get.

Best regards,

Lew Bachman

1957 T-Bird

 

 

P6FH254255 ? What does it tell you..?

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Just tells you that is was a 1956 Thunderbird with a 312 engine, built in Dearborn, MI .  2542545 is the basic production number starting with 100001.  There is other info on the patent plate which is located behind the heater blower motor on the fire wall.  It looks to me like the rear fenders/s have been replaced as that "pie crust " crimp and weld at the door jamb was not how they left the body builder.  Thunderbirds of the 55-57 model years had a one piece main body that was built by a coach builder for Ford, Budd I think was their name.  The bodies were all welded from new and while there workmanship wasn't perfect it was better than that.  I would say this is a sub $20,000 car at best.

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If I were the cynical type, I'd think you're trying to gather all the negative info you can so you can make a lowball offer and snag it for yourself. ;)

 

If you're really trying to sell it, list it at 27, take the first close offer that comes in, and move on.  The buyer has some obligation to due diligence, and it's neither dishonest nor shady if you don't disclose what you don't know.  Tell him what you do know and leave it at that.  The more you look for flaws, the more you'll find; any car can be picked apart if you look hard enough.  That may give the buyer a reason to go low, but it's not doing the widow any favors.

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Thanks for your vote of confidence.. a wise man might not go to such questioning..

While very cute and appealing,  I have no interest in this car ..it's not my thing. But I need not defend my informational search since I'm not that familiar with these specific cars so  I asked those that do.. to just confirm my guesses..

But implications expressed here about my intentions can seem both unkind, insulting, misguided, and damaging... no matter how well meaning  the source.

 

I'm trying to know of what I have in order to get the proper price based on condition of major components that dictate real value.

 

 If it needs to priced for less than they thought,  I simply wanted to tell her why.  That means major things that would impact it's value need to be known to her, it's not a search for the negative. I'd rather be cautious and have some facts than to have both buyer or seller expecting something more than that which is the reality here.. 

 

I'm not looking deeper as you're correct the more you look..and yes, that is surely  buyers job to do.

 

The "gift" to the widow is being factual about findings and not filling her head with false scenarios on condition and pricing..

 

I think I know enough now to continue on my own  .. Thanks

 

 

 

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I was hot for one of these for a while, but would likely go Lincoln 61- 63 if I were to get a postwar car.  It seems like prices for all but the best have cooled every year for the past 3 or 4, or the time I have been following them locally.

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