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Really need to know what car and era you are working with, how original and the voltage, like if you had '40's era car and are changing it to 12v, that'll make quite a difference on materials and technique.

The craftsmanship speaks for itself, post'em up!

Stromberg have a poor needle & seat design, sideways doesn't promote sealing and they'll let fuel dribble past them, take the tops off when they are hot and you can watch it happen without the engine running. Holley 94 would be the better choice.

Pay to drive our classics in the city? it should be the other way around if they could even get us to drive in that mess. Not just London, I wouldn't consider driving in any city. We are meant to enjoy them.

Dang, I missed it! That would've been fun too.

Yes, I read it wrong, I read the Pertronix instructions from their site and thought it said maximum for V-8 motors is 1.5, I just checked and it says minimum 1.5. I'd still get a Pertronix coil. I went thru the same thing on a '67 Caprice, I thought any old coil would do and it worked for about 6 months to leave the people stranded. If you use Pertronix ignition then get Pertronix parts, you use Delco, then get Delco etc

So, you have the wrong coil, the resistance is too great. Get a Pertronix coil with 1.5ohms. How does the Pertronix see voltage at 'Start'? The original ignition switch will not give power to the coil at 'Start', the power would come from a set of contacts on the starter solenoid (it was done this way to bypass the ballast resistor so the ignition would see a full 12vdc). You say the wire from the starter is not connected, so how is it getting voltage to start? I bring this up because problems have a way of being interconnected, I realize it may seem pointless because the car will start. It may be that the ignition switch has been replaced with a GM HEI ignition switch. I'll bet you are using a digital volt-ohm meter to read voltage, they'll mislead you. Find an old analog meter, the kind with a needle, they'll give you the actual voltage.

No, the Pertronix will want a 1.5ohm coil. Did you bypass the ballast resistor? the Pertronix wants full 12v. How did you deal with the wire coming from the starter solenoid? yellow, I believe, how did the Pertronix get connected so it see voltage at 'Start' on the ignition switch?

Does the Pertronix have the right coil? If the coil has the wrong internal resistance the current flow thru the Pertronix module will be too great, always use the Pertronix coil, it'll have their name on it. You say you replaced the coil, are they both Pertronic units? I can't understand how pulling a plug wire the RPM goes up.

You don't have Positive gnd regulator on a Neg gnd system do you?

A McLaren? Who trades in one of them? I crewed an M-8C back in the day.

Sounds like a restriction on the supply side where a new pump will overcome it but it causes early failure in the pump. I'd replace the tank and lines. You say the 'tank looks clean' without conviction, I read a little doubt into it.

Look at the nut securing the seat/inlet assembly inside the float bowl to see if there isn't a crack in it from over tightening.

In a good many years of checking radiator temps the only radiator I ever saw getting more than 25degrees from inlet to outlet was on a 25 Nash, I'd be happy to see 15degrees on a driver, most are barely 10.