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About ojh

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  1. We had one like that when racing, I think it was 103' long. The price must be a misprint. At 90K miles it isn't even broken in yet. Big rig for sure, made a wrong turn one night into a subdivision amd had to back it all the way out, luckily people came out to help us. Very cool truck.
  2. I saw this and something made me think it would be shipped from the UK, thanks to you I now see thye are in NY. more better, thanks, Oj
  3. Where do I find these 7/16-18 castle nuts? I think its some kind of british pitch. I salvaged the other nuts and ran them thru the tumbler etc but some of the castle nuts I tossed they were in bad shape. Guess I'd better order the special tap & die for restoration too.
  4. Sounds interesting, can you post a picture? I assume it is different from a 'Pittsburgh Seam'
  5. Very nice, started polishing yet? Looks like Stromberg M2, I have parts for them if you need some thing, look close at the nut holding the seat to the bowl, they're thin and crack.
  6. That looks like a vacuum switch, it has 2 terminals? That looks like a hose nipple that would connect to the intake manifold. The solenoid is bolted to the overdrive unit. Heres a pic of the one I just did, the vacuum switch is to the right, the hose comes into the bottom, one blue wire from it goes to the coil, the other blue can be seen terminating at the bottom of the relay. Can you show a pic of your relay and the device that could be a vacuum switch and remove the covers so we can see the reminals? I am a little uncomfortable here, I don't want to be confusing things, if you think you have a handle on it just say so, won't hurt my feelings at all, ok?
  7. I'd stay with what is working properly, if I recall correct those carbs have sideways mounted needle & seat, not a good application for springloaded moving parts but if it has a history of working and you have confidence in it I'd stay with it. I wonder where it came from.
  8. Do you have the original relay for the OverDrive unit (I ask because they are more complicated than meets the eye); does the OverDrive Solenoid have 2 insulated terminals, one that would pull it 'In' and another to pull it 'Out'? Any other devices such as vacuum switch or Overdrive Governor involved? A picture of the relay without the cover would be helpful, some of them look like double throw but aren't. Once we know what you have we can walk you thru it. Maybe.
  9. Pull some plugs to see if fuel is getting into the cylinders.
  10. I can believe it, they were 'complicated', I have the original factory electrical manuals, it took 4 ringbinders that probably stack up a couple feet. I'll bet that Chrysler 'Crosswind?' is the same way.
  11. If you want small and fun I'd strongly suggest a Tiger while you can still get one.
  12. I'm working on a '52 Nash Healey, I need to reshim the alxes and can't figure out what rear it is or where to get the shims. Anybody care to venture a guess? I have all the shop manuals, the rear is just called a Nash Rear. The cover is 10bolt, round and looks similar to what the Nash 'Statesman' rear looks like but from what I rear the Statesman isn't as stout as other Nash rears. I've looked in Hollanders without luck. Any thoughts? Oj
  13. I have an extensive inventory of old original Carter carb parts, mostly 2bbl. Seems as if each Carburetor is unique, but we might get lucky. All the pieces have the pristine original Carter finish on them. I believe my inventory came from a Buick dealership, I have several cabinets full of parts. Shoot me a PM or email me: ojh4@verizon.net
  14. ojh

    Mileage clues

    A good 'tell' for me is the wear on the brake backing plate from the linings steel backing. There are little stamped bosses that the linings make contact with and the backing plates are quite soft so they can be formed, a car with 50K miles will have noticeable wear, with 100K it'll have worn a slot that needs welding to bring it back. One of the first things to do in even a modest restoration is to tear the brake system apart to replace everything, just have a close look at those pads. This backing plate had under 70K miles and you can see the wear better on that pad at 7 o'clock. Weld the pads up and grind back flat, after etching primer I paint the inside satin grey so we can see whats going on and assemble the brakes.