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BearsFan315

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About BearsFan315

  • Birthday 01/31/1975

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  1. !! Congratulations !! your hard work and dedication pays off, and everyone recognizes it. that is truly one beautiful car, and worth everything. I do hope that you will bring it down here next spring/summer when we host the 2022 AACA Grand Nationals. You know how to get here 😜 I will be free and around, and you are welcome as always to stop over and check out the progress in person on my 1929. Your workmanship is still in tip top shape !! Keep up the good work, and keep sharing and showing that car !!
  2. well a suggestion from a few of the guys over on VCCA, they recommended putting a bend or low spot in the tubing and/or putting a copper feed wire on the line. the goal is to keep any oil that may run down the tube from going back through the other side and making a mess. so i ventured into both worlds. another suggestion was to wrap some copper wire around the tube near the top to prevent the tube nut from falling into the rocker arm cavity if you ever loosened it and it slipped through the opening, which would require you to remove the push rod cover and installing a new gasket possibly. the bends came out nicely, will have to clean up the tube a little, and not sure IF i will keep the nut catcher on the top section or not. may have to mentally remind myself ot keep the nut from slipping through if i ever remove the rocker arm anytime down the road.
  3. then was time to oil up and drop in the tappets... i had stored them in a bag with a light coat of oil. then drop in the push rods
  4. Ran the Rocker arm feedline, new copper tubing from the Oil Distributor Valve to the head, through the block. ran it long so that once i get the rocker arms in place I can cut it to length and install the connector that fits into the rocker arms.
  5. Fisher Job No 30551 looks to be a 1930 Chevrolet Coach
  6. For my old Chevrolets 1929 i picked up the Borg Warner BWD E5 from my local parts store. been working fine for me. even have a spare just in case. nice thing they were the same shape and size as my original one, and they are solid black no label on them. so fits right in and looks great
  7. while doing this, i noticed marking on the block i have not seen before... this is on the passenger side/push rod, between the distributor mount & the fuel pump mount. looks to be "10E" any clue to what this is or means ?? considering it stayed on after cleaning and going through the engine tank
  8. this morning, before work I chased the threads on the push rod studs, and then installed the oil return tube, from the head o the block.
  9. thought i took a shot of the copper gasket installed, before the head ? not going back now
  10. Got the Guide Pins in the designated holes per the Repair Manual. cleaned up the block deck and head surface. then cleaned up the copper gasket and put a coat of copper gasket spray on it and let it dry. then dropped the gasket on the block, then placed the head on the gasket, and put in the NEW head bolts. tightened them in stages per Manual in proper order Head is on and secured in place... you can see that the 6.00" long guide pins were perfect for this application, pretty tall head on this 194 !! top down of block cleaned up and guide pins set top down with head in place side view head in place, can see the guide pins head installed and torqued in place
  11. i placed it on my Wooden stand i made years ago. prepping for the head install, i bought 4x .500-13 UNC bolts 6.00" long and cut off the heads and the cut in a slot for guide pins, per the manual this makes installing the gasket and head a lot easier and prevents sliding of the gasket. I did a test and the gasket can only go on in one direction, so can not put it on backwards or upside down. I went with 6.00" long bolts as i knew that they had to be longer than the head is deep or i would not be able to get them back out Was wondering should i spray/coat the head gasket with Copper Gasket spray for extra security ? i know this is a common practice, but is it worth it ?? note pins were randomly installed just for test purposes, they have been relocated and set per the Repair Manual guidelines.
  12. now that the bottom end is done, oil feed lines and Oil Distribution valve & Oil Pump in place, oil pan gasket installed and seated. Time to flip it over and start on the top half. When Flipping it over I used both my Engine Stand & Engine Lift. Wanted to ensure that if it slipped in the stand the Engine Lift would have it Slow and steady wins the race.
  13. finally got in my 2 copper crush washers i have been waiting for. these are for the 2 screws that hold in the dipper distribution blocks/tubes. installed them and now the bottom end oil feed is complete, only oil feed left is the line that runs from the oil distributor valve to the rocker arms. i will install that once i flip it over and get the head set & installed.
  14. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0177173 Stainless but 3/8-24 thread and slotted Fillister https://www.aspenfasteners.com/search.php?_bc_fsnf=1&search_query=3%2F8"-24+Slotted+Drive+Fillister+Head
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