BearsFan315

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About BearsFan315

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  • Birthday 01/31/1975

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  1. Well 3d Printed the first test molds, came out pretty nice. did some fitment tests and some alignment testing. need to tweak a few things and try again. want to make sure the molds are ready to rock before i start ordering rubber and pouring. also did a fitment /location test on the metal inset i printed earlier as well. these were printed with a think layer height of 0.3mm and an infill of 25% along with a wall/shell thickness of 0.8mm will go heavier and thinner layers on final mold prints !! Layer 1 done, Layer 2 going down on the right side bottom layers complete, now doing an infill, only doing a 25% infill for test parts. no need to waste material and time. layer one of the bottom of rubber section being laid down finished 3d printing, came out pretty good !!
  2. ok, updated the mold models, put in a chamfered corner so i KNOW which way they go, as well as 3 alignment pins. also put in a step ring on the pins internally to hold the metal inset in the middle where i need it orange rings you can see in the image. going to try using a clearance around the pins, over sized the holes .005, do not want too large as the material will seep in and make it hard to get apart. hoping this will work for making a few sets. looking to do what i can based on the rubber i am going to order, once it it opened it has a SHORT life.
  3. Gary... i plan to 3d print the molds, and then go from there, probably could do some sort of 3d printing if i had a high end machine that could do metal and rubber materials. 3d printing is a hole new world and great for the old car hobby if applied correctly. the rubber urethane i am looking at is about 1100 cps so it is like pouring 60wt oil. i plan to pour vertical and if i had a vibrating plate i would use it, plan to pour and tap as i go. these are small parts so need to keep the air out.
  4. Ted, thanks for the tips. maybe i will open the hole in the met inset a tad an then put a small step or rib step on the pin to hold the metal midway. Yeah the urethane i was looking at is either Shore 60A or Shore 85A (two options). Shore 70A is approx to rubber used in tires (Medium Hard). 60A would be a tad softer/flexible (Medium Soft/Medium Hard). 20A is approx to a rubber band 😛 (Soft) Do you remember brand you all used ?? and was it Shore 70 or 70A or 70D ?? assume 70A for a flexible rubber.
  5. also have quotes out for rubber, and for cutting the insets. looking at doing 6 sets up front, for testing, that would be 12 of everything. hoping i can get 12 rubber pours out of the rubber batch. looking at a cost of approx: $25 per seal, or $50 per set for materials only no labor charges. Geesh....
  6. ok, started design of the mold for these seals... going to be a standard 2 part mold, parting line will be right down the middle if laying flat. bottom half will have extended pins, which are the holes, and line up with the top half which will not have pins, but have through holes for the pins to go in and line up the part. not sure if i should add a third or fourth line pin outside the mold are for alignment. going to pour with the item standing up vertically, and use a 3/16" vent hole next to a 3/16" pour hole with a 3/4" lead in funnel. this should allow me to get material in all areas, vent our any air, and not leave any voids. the metal inset will sit on the pins dead center (float). metal should fit snug on the pins. going to pour using a polyurethane 60. so should be soft but sturdy, supposed to be pretty viscous to pour easily !! we shall find out. any thoughts or comments let me know. thinking i may move the vent to dead center, or the fill to dead center ?? i know it will need to be trimmed when removed, but that is ok. its rubber
  7. yeah another issue, getting them to work together a few shots of the rubber mat around the pedals in my 1929
  8. question now, is since these are pretty thick, once you install them, IF you try to use the rubber floor mat, then it would bulge around these seals. and not sit flat on the floor.
  9. here are a few of the metal inset next to the rubber body prototypes also side by side on the pedal plates, metal inset on the left, rubber on the right.
  10. did a test fit of a standard #10 flat head slotted screw, which is what holds this to the pedal plates the chamfer is dead on, the screw head sits flush with the top of the rubber
  11. also did a 3d print of the rubber of Pedal Seal Prototype D.1 came out pretty nice .26" thick, same as measured on current rubber sample holes line up, and it mates up to both the metal inset outside and the pedal plates
  12. ok, so did a 3d print of the inset of Pedal Seal Prototype D.1 came out pretty nice 1/32" thick, same as steel inset holes line up, and it mates up to both the rubber outside and the pedal plates
  13. just did a courtesy check and all of mine are number 38846 3 ton bought 7+ years ago i also did a double check on the teeth and prawl, all look great and are very well defined. i have to remove almost all of the weight off them to move the lever at all !!
  14. just to share, here is the latest concept 1929 Pedal Seal Prototype D.1 using the photos provided as well as input back from cabboy think we have narrowed down the shape, based on the metal inset he cut out, and the rubber shape overall. the metal plate is sealed and embedded in the rubber, and is not present where the cut will go (the slit in the top) looks like a large offset "C" seems both the left and right are the same piece, as they are chamfered on both sides, so you just flip it over. feedback, questions, thoughts are welcome... i am going to try and do a 3d print of the metal inset tonight and test fit on my 1929, as well as print out a full size seal (as seen below) for fitment and spacing. 3d CAD of Protoype D.1 Top Side 3d CAD of Protoype D.1 Bottom Side
  15. It is for ones produced/manufactured: Production Dates : JUN 13, 2013 - NOV 22, 2019 Number of potentially involved : 454,000 Estimated percentage with defect : 5 % it looks like it was specific one made by a specific manufacturer that was using OLD tooling I have a set of four that i have been using continuously while working on my 1929 Chevrolet, mounted them on dolly. in fact they have ad the car in the air off all fours for long durations. moved car around garage on them, and move the car every few days on them. hoping my set is NOT in the recall. they are giving people store credit if you take them in. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCLRPT-20E016-6561.PDF cool video of guy going over the defective vs good stands...