64avanti

Swedish inventor Waldemar Jungner invented the nickel–cadmium battery in 1899. Jungner experimented with substituting iron for the cadmium in varying proportions, including 100% iron. Jungner discovered that the main advantage over the nickel–cadmium chemistry was cost, but due to the lower efficiency of the charging reaction and more pronounced formation of hydrogen (gassing), the nickel–iron technology was found wanting and abandoned. Jungner had several patents for the iron version of his battery (Swedish pat. Nos 8.558[permanent dead link]/1897, 10.177/1899, 11.132/1899, 11.487/1899 and German Patent No.110.210 /1899). Moreover, he had one patent for NiCd battery: Swed.pat No. 15.567/1899.[19] Edison Storage Battery Company In 1901 Thomas Edison patented and commercialized NiFe in the United States[20] and offered it as the energy source for electric vehicles, such as the Detroit Electric and Baker Electric. Edison claimed the nickel–iron design to be, "far superior to batteries using lead plates and acid" (lead–acid battery).[21] Edison had several patents: U.S. Patent 678,722/1901, U.S. Patent 692,507/1902, and German patent No 157.290/1901.[19 I live in Buffalo, NY, and the Edison vs. other inventors is a hot topic around here. Nikola Tesla had a huge impact here; his contributions helped to make this a major US city. Yet Tesla died penniless. Edison was a great marketer and self promoter, and he got (and took) credit for a number of inventions that weren't necessarily his. There is a great deal of research that bears this out. Anyway, I'm one of those people who get a little irritated when Edison gets mentioned. There is no doubt that he was a great inventor of many wonderful things, but not everything he gets credit for. As I said, a great marketer and self promoter, with a real dark side.

Higher returns for the large company, not the vendor waiting to get paid. I have worked for a larger company, so I am well aware how they use their power to their advantage. I've experienced it from both sides. Believe me, being the little guy requires a great deal of intestinal fortitude. General Motors goes to the bank and gets a line of credit on the corporate name; I go to the bank and have to personally guarantee that I will pay back the line. I have skin in the game, and GM doesn't. Point being that what works for General Motors isn't going to work for a small shop in any industry, especially the shops doing high end one off work. You see things from the large corporation point of view, and myself and other posters see things from the other side. No offense intended, but while you've made many valid points, I think that you are having difficulty seeing this issue from the other perspective. What this thread has made clear to me is that there is no perfect way to protect both the shop doing the work and the customer writing the checks.

You have described in detail how very large companies do things. Believe me, no small company is run this way. We can't afford the staff nor the time to so thoroughly vet customers. Any staff we do have is busy with payroll, accounts payable/receivable, federal and state compliances, quoting, designing, and engineering jobs, and so on. We spend a lot of our time doing all the things needed to run a successful business. It's just in a completely different environment than the one you work in. 90 days to get paid for a job? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Nope. Those terms don't work. You want me to do the job? My terms for residential work are 30% down, 30% progress payment due at the halfway point of the job, 30% on delivery, final 10% on completion. Commercial work is negotiable, but payment is always net 30 or less, I always try to negotiate for no retainage, with return of retainage on completion of my work, not everyone else's. And yes, I always write up a detailed scope of work, be it fixed price or time and materials. I stand my ground on terms, as I personally can't afford to be your bank. It doesn't matter how large the company or the contract, I'm not your bank. I agree that a detailed scope of work and a contract with terms, conditions, and exclusions should be part of any job, just on a different level.

Boggs Tool https://boggstool.com/ I have sent them well over a hundred files, all cuts, multiple brands, etc. They come back as sharp as new, for a fraction of the cost. They sharpen everything you send, then test each file. Files that fail are tang dipped in red paint and returned to you, and are invoiced at a substantial discount, even though most of the time they are still pretty sharp. However, they will reject the file if sent back again. To ship, use a flat rate USPS box. I made a liner out of 1/4" hardboard that is glued and taped together with the top loose, that just drops in the box. I wrap the files in paper to keep them from banging around, pack them in, fill in the gaps with crumpled paper, put the 1/4" lid on, close up and ship. I've done this 3 times successfully. I mark the liner with a Sharpie with my name, address, and a request to return it with the files. Oh, and I clean my files before I send them, removing any material that is clogging the teeth. I don't do anything about rust, as their process takes care of it. They also sharpen carbide and HSS burrs. I can usually find pretty good deals on new files at eBay. Used files are a crap shoot to buy, as they are often too far gone to be sharpened properly; although I would take a chance if they were really cheap, less than $.50 each.

I agree. Notice the standard transmission floor shifter to the right. Also the column appears to be partially covering a gauge. So identifying the vehicle it's in won't help. Unfortunately, I am no help as to what it came out of.

I do have to disagree with the thought that your practices apply to any business. Squeezing every penny out of suppliers is standard operating procedure for the big guys-Ford, GM, Toyota, etc-but not for small businesses, like my own and the businesses run by my friends and colleagues. The business in the OP is a small business, so your business norms do not work. I don't know of any small business that would accept a contract entitling the purchaser to clawback excess profits on labor and materials. I have done jobs valued at $4 million and was required to provide reams of documentation, including Certified Payroll Reports, proof of payments to my vendors and subs, and detailed Schedules of Values with every pay application; each Change Order required the same level of documentation. In the end, I was paid based upon my contract, regardless of the cost of labor and materials. The point is that most if not all small businesses run on fixed or set price contracts. I have done work under a Time and Materials Not to Exceed contract; in these cases, we have agreed to an hourly labor rate and a set material price, including markup. Again, I provided documentation of the costs, and was paid the agreed upon amounts. The point is that the OP is seeking advice regarding a typical small business. He is attempting to analyze the business and determine what the problems and and what is causing them, which is something every small business has to work through. Unfortunately for him, he is a minor player at this company and does not have access to the financial and operations details that are necessary to analyze and find solutions to these problems, so he is really just spinning his wheels. I am impressed with his ambition and curiosity, and believe that it will serve him well in the general workplace; I have had very few employees with the initiative that this fellow shows.

Totally disagree! My 1951 Ford F1 with original flathead V8 (pretty much stock, rebuilt, bored 60 over with an Edelbrock 4 barrel), 3 speed manual no OD, and 3:92 rear end will cruise all day at 60 - 65 MPH. Gets better mileage at 50 - 55, but that's the only difference. I bet the mileage would improve if I went back to the stock carb, but I've gotten used to it with the Edelbrock. I have pushed it to 70 - 75, but found it revved a little too high for my taste, so I stay at 65 or below. Now, maybe a prewar truck can't do it, but most postwar trucks can.

Speaking of which, I have been a member of owwm.org (Old Woodworking Machines) for 15 years. Great forum and very helpful. My shop is full of old machines-a bandsaw made in 1894, metal lathe from 1942, jointer from 1912, and so on. The jointer and bandsaw both have babbit bearings, which I learned how to pour and scrape on that site. See how I turned it sort of back to antique cars?

i never thought of that. I'm familiar with VFDs, so I will investigate further. Thanks for the suggestion!

For running your air tools I suggest getting an 80 gallon 7.5 HP 3 phase 2 stage compressor. A good quality unit will be less than $4,000.00. You don't really need a dryer for this usage; just drain the tank every day. I've been running my woodworking business for 25 years with an Emglo 5 HP 3 Phase 2 stage 80 gallon compressor. It keeps up with multiple Dynabrade RO sanders, a spray booth running 2 to 6 hours a day, nail guns, etc. I have a 5 stage desiccant system in the spray room to keep the air clean and dry. I have a manual drain on the tank, and oil/water separators with drains at every drop. I only run out of air when I am sandblasting and someone starts using the RO sanders. Otherwise, no problem keeping up. I much prefer my air tools over most of my electric tools. Cost wise, I am, unfortunately, on a demand meter, and I have several machines that have high starting amps, so I usually end up at about 15Kwh at demand price, about $150.00 or so each month. The rest of my bill is $250.00ish each month. My compressor is not one of the machines that kicks the demand meter; my planer and dust collector are the worst offenders there . Anyway, I'd take a second look at getting a smaller compressor and keeping your air tools.

I wish the seller had found some punctuation in that barn.

Jeez-a-lou, don't be so thin skinned. It's a discussion forum, members have thoughts and opinions. It's not personal. I know very little about most cars listed, so I find the discussion to be very educational and enlightening.

I suggest calling custom cabinet shops in your area, as most of us have either done caning or have someone we farm it out to. I have done it a few times. I taught myself from a book. It's not difficult, just time consuming, which is why I searched for and found someone else to do it. Having said that, you might enjoy doing it yourself.

I do like poplar for interior work, as it takes primer and paint extremely well and, if it was properly kiln dried, is pretty stable as to expansion and contraction. I prefer it over pine for interior moldings and trim.

I did a little internet research and found that all varieties of poplar have little to no rot resistance.

Just an observation -unless it was used originally, do not use poplar! Poplar will rot quicker than almost any other wood. This from 50 years as a cabinetmaker. I have never done wood for a car, but if I did I would use ash and white (not red) oak, as both are very rot resistant. Sapele is another rot resistant species.

https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/ Join this forum for all things Studebaker. Ask the question in the tech section and I'm sure you will get the correct answer.

This stuff: https://www.blackmagicshine.com/products/bleche-wite-tire-cleaner/#features_benefits If that doesn't work, try straight purple ZEP.

I have a great insurance agent who explained the byzantine world of homeowners, auto, and business insurance to me. Bottom line is for most insurance, being underinsured can be very costly. Read your policy or talk to your agent about it. You may save a few dollars now, but you will more than pay that back in the event of a major loss. Keeping this antique auto related, just be sure that you are comfortable with the agreed value, taking into account the cost of repairs or replacement.

I take a different approach to insurance value. Both my completely restored 51 Ford F1 and my soon to be started on the restoration 64 Studebaker Avanti are insured through Hagerty at an agreed replacement value that some might consider quite high. Why? With $10K in agreed value, that's the limit of your coverage. If repairs are over that, that's all you get. I want to be sure that I can rebuild either vehicle back to where it was before the accident or replace it with the same quality level that I spent thousands of hours to achieve. I had to document the agreed value of the Ford with plenty of pictures, while the Studebaker, being non-operative, only required a few photos.

17 year old me in my first car, a 67 Ford Galaxy 500. At some point, a PO had replaced the (most likely) big block engine with a 289. Rear end was geared for a fat ride highway cruiser, so it took forever to get any speed. Of course, being a young, dumb and impatient kid I would just put my foot in the carburetor. The first time I broke the motor mounts was also the first time I experienced trying to control a multi thousand pound land yacht stuck at WOT. On winding hilly back roads. Took a terrifying minute to realize that the only way to stop was to shut the car off. Limped home and replaced the motor mounts. A month later I broke those mounts. My mechanic uncle, who helped me keep it on the road, guided me in the 2nd replacement mounts. He let me know that I was a dumbass, then wedged a 2x4 across the engine and under the fenders to hold the engine down. Never broke the mounts again. There are a lot more stories from my early adventures as a dumbass gearhead wannabe, but I'll leave it at this. When I scrapped that POS a year later I sold the 289 to a guy who put it in a late 60's Mustang and drove it for years. Got $50.00 for the engine and $50.00 from the scrapyard.

Not sure why this one is listed with a missing title. New York does not issue titles on vehicles older than 1972, only transferrable registration. It appears that this car is currently registered, so transfer of ownership should not be an issue.

In my case, I have been spraying for 40 years. Mostly furniture finishing, but there is little difference in the required tools and application techniques. I have sprayed just about everything imaginable, including shellac, varnish, nitrocellulose lacquer, water borne finishes, acrylics, epoxies, urethanes, and pre- and post- acid catalyzed clears and pigmented finishes. I enjoy experimenting with different finishes and finishing techniques, so I keep an open mind about these things. My spray gun has evolved from an early HVLP turbine unit, to standard cup guns and pressure pots, to the latest gravity feed and pressure guns. Safety equipment has always been my top priority, as all of these finishes are toxic. I've had a spray booth for years, and always wear a proper respirator when mixing, spraying, and any fume exposure. Nitrile gloves are a must, and I do wear a full body tyvek jumpsuit and cotton face/hair covering when spraying the more toxic paints. I have sprayed only one vehicle, my 1951 Ford F1. SPI epoxy primer, 2K high build primer, and black single stage Urethane. I have painted furniture with BC/CC, and have switched to SPI Urethane Clear for furniture requiring durability. And I have also sprayed parts of my truck outside in the driveway. Many amateur painters have done complete paint jobs in their garage, so it can be done safely. So while I'm certainly no expert, I do have a great deal of experience.

In order to get the paint to spray out of a rattle can requires extreme thinning of the paint, so many many more coats are necessary to achieve coverage. A test for those with spray equipment: buy a can of Rust-Oleum paint any type and color, in both a rattle can and a brushable quart. Thin the brushable just enough to spray it out of your gun. Get a couple of spray out cards online or from an automotive paint store. Spray one with the rattle can and one with your gun. I guarantee that it will take many more coats to cover with the rattle cans. In fact, your thinned down quart of paint will be equal to, I don't know, a dozen or more rattle cans? Which is why painters don't like rattle cans. Not that it doesn't work, just that it is an inefficient and expensive way to apply paint.

Actually, this is not necessarily true. Over on the SPI (Southern Polyurethanes) forum there are a whole bunch of pros and amateurs who commonly use SPI epoxy, then SlickSand, more SPI epoxy, any brand of base, then SPI clear. As for lacquer, there are just so many different types of paint today that are more durable and easier to maintain that it doesn't make sense to most painters to use lacquer. Lacquer does have a certain "look", I will grant you that. I don't have any comparative experience with lacquer vs. modern finishes, so I can't say that the lacquer "look" can or cannot be duplicated.