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About 64avanti

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  1. I would not assume that he is giving you the car; if you are wrong, you will ruin a great friendship. I suggest that you decide what it's worth, given the needed repairs from sitting so long, then hand him a check for that amount. If he wants to give you the car, he will refuse to take the check. Absolutely beautiful car.
  2. I have been using methylene chloride stripper for years. I have found that applying a heavy coat and letting it sit for 20 minutes or so burns through most old paint. Scrape it off, then use hot water mixed with 2 tablespoons per gallon of Soilax ( a cleaner available at your local house paint store, used by painters to clean before painting) or Borax Powder, scrub off the remaining stripper and paint. The Soilax acts as an emulsifier, allowing the stripper to mix into the water. Scrub until all paint is removed from all surfaces, cracks, and crevasses. Hose off the wood and wipe dry; I use compressed air to blow the water out of the cracks and crevasses. Let it dry, then sand and finish as desired. Wear full length chemical resistant gloves, an old apron, a vapor respirator, and a face shield. When you get some stripper on your skin, and you will, stop immediately and rinse the affected area with cold water. It will cause chemical burns. MC is highly corrosive, so use outdoors or in a well ventilated area. Once, we stripped a bunch of stuff in our enclosed shop, and the vapors caused every single bit of exposed steel in the shop to flash rust. 4,000 sq. Ft. Shop. Took weeks to clean everything. Great stuff, works like nothing else, but just be careful with it
  3. I used Waldron's for the stainless dual exhaust for my 51 Ford F1. Fit was very good to excellent. I did have to cut and reweld the fitting at the passenger side exhaust manifold because the angle was slightly off. Might have been my fault-as this truck did not come stock with dual exhaust, the passenger side manifold was, IIRC, off of a different Ford, and I may have given Waldron's the wrong part number. It was no big deal-took me 5 minutes to cut off the flange and grind the end of the pipe to the correct angle. I did not have a TIG setup, so I took it to an exhaust shop around the corner and they TIG'ed it for $15.00. Anyway, it fit nicely and sounds great. Just my experience.
  4. Matt, when I tore down the original flathead V8 in my 51 Ford F1, my research revealed the necessity to spend as much time as possible poking, prodding, scraping, and power flushing the water jackets, as flatheads are notorious for large quantities of sand, casting wire, and other debris packed at the back end of the water jackets. No pictures, but I removed about 2 coffee cups of debris with about 4 hours of work. I used stiff wire, long screwdrivers, home made scrapers, a piece of steel cable that I unwound the end of and used in a drill, and my power washer, along with lots of compressed air. This was to the bare block before it went to the rebuild shop, where they did a shake and bake on it before any other work. I didn't think to use the evaporust on it, although I doubt it would have come much cleaner. The engine runs extremely well and stays well within the correct temp range. Of course, I don't know if this applies to your situation, so take it for whatever it is worth to you. John
  5. I have used one of these for years: http://www.thumlerstumbler.com/vibratory.html Works well with the ceramic media for cleaning; I use the walnut shells coated with red compound for polishing if needed. I bought a 5 gallon pail of lubricating liquid from McMaster Carr or MSC that I add with water to help the cut and it keeps the parts from flash rusting. It is not a fast process, usually takes overnight to clean up a load of hardware. I have the UV-18, and I have to be careful not to overload it. When I do put too much weight in it, it overheats and shuts down, which isn't a big problem, as it restarts when cooled. The smaller the unit, the lower its capacity and the longer it will take to clean the parts. I researched them for a while before I bought mine, and the UV-18 seemed to be the smallest effective unit available. I would not recommend the HF or any other of the low cost imports.
  6. The auction is not going very well thus far....
  7. It appears that there is no engine, probably no tranny, no wheels, and decades of exposure to the elements. Any moving parts appear to be rusted into a solid mass. Honestly, I think it is too far gone to have any value at all. Are all of the vehicles in this condition? If this is the best of the bunch, then unfortunately you've got nothing but scrap. Sadly, this is a common occurrence, where vehicles are neglected to the point of no return.
  8. The OP has been given tons of great advice from many experienced and knowledgeable folks, who are sincerely trying to help. He has chosen to ignore most of it. I, personally, am done. Everything that can be said has been. I suggest everyone just calls it a day and lets this one die on its own.
  9. After all of the advice you've been given, it really comes down to two choices: Advertise the car everywhere you can, and hold out for how ever long it takes to get the $9,000.00 price. be prepared to have the car for weeks or, most likely, months, until the person comes along who really wants the car and believes that the price is right. OR Advertise the car everywhere you can, accept that you won't get your money back that you have into it, cut your loses, and take whatever you can get for it. Either choice, accept that selling an old car is not going to be easy, or not going to be a lot of work. Take the advice you've been given or don't-your call. Above all, please stop complaining about how much the world sucks. No one wants to hear it.
  10. 5 pages. 105 posts. If we haven't convinced the OP that his car is only going to sell for $7K to $8K by now, I don't believe that we ever will.
  11. Honestly, I don't see anyone bashing the OP, or giving unsolicited advice. The OP opened this thread with a complaint about no one being interested in his car. Many members replied with helpful advice and very honest comments, most of which were pretty constructive. Just because the OP doesn't want to hear it doesn't make it less true. We've been here many times before, where someone doesn't want to believe that their car is not worth what they think it is worth. Sadly, no amount of logic and reality is going to change that. Just my $.02, for whatever it's worth.
  12. That process doesn't look unreasonable to me. A bother, yes, but not a major roadblock. I am curious abot the following: Did you have to pay Vermont sales tax? Will you have to pay Michigan sales tax when you tranfer the registration? Will you need insurance once you transfer to Michigan?
  13. It was implied in several of the responses. I was responding to urraco8 as the OP.
  14. Don't shoot the messenger.😋 The OP may not be aware of the possible repercussions of not getting proper title to the vehicle; many people aren't.