64avanti

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  1. I would assume that you would negotiate the contract when the deal is made. They would probably hand you their standard contract for this; that's when you take it to your lawyer to review and to add whatever you want for terms and conditions. I would think that you would have to do some research to really understand what you need to protect yourself, as as been discussed in this thread. I have found that it never hurts to ask for the moon in any contract negotiation-the worst they can do is say no.
  2. I agree that you need to look at sold listings on ebay for your year and model. What a car actually sells for vs. what the seller was asking are very often two completely different numbers. The actual sold prices will tell you what the real market is for your car. You may not like the answer, but you will know where to price it to sell it.
  3. Greg, as a professional woodworker/furniture maker/antique restorer for the past 50+ years, I feel the need to interject my thoughts about this car. I realize that you worked long and hard on this, spending many hours to get the car to this point. I looked at pictures of the car that you have posted on other for sale sites, and it appears that you did a good job on the mechanicals and the sheet metal. However, the quality of the woodwork is really going to hurt the sales value of this car. These are the issues that I can see from the photos: 1. Joinery. Every wood joint shows uneven gapping, which cannot be filled or repaired. Each joint must be taken apart and refitted. 2. Fit of pieces. The lines from one board to the next are quite far off; this may be correctable by planing and sanding, but only if the new wood is thicker than the original; there may not be enough material left to plane and align the surfaces, forcing replacement of some boards. 3. Doors. There is major sagging of the door frames; I assume that the wood frames themselves are sagging and have drooped to out of square; again, the only cure is to take the door frame apart, refit the joints, and assemble correctly. This assumes that there is enough material remaining. 4. Pieces. The original construction of this car had multiple pieces of wood glued up then shaped to the contours. It appears that many of these jointed pieces have come loose and have been glued back into place, just not very well fitted. This will require removal of the entire part, proper fitting and gluing (if possible), and re-installation. Overall, as a person who has the equipment, talent, and experience to rebuild this car, I would have to pretty much tear it all out and start over. Anyone who considers buying this car will be taking that into account, and will adjust their price accordingly. It's a similar situation to selling a house-the prospective buyer will deduct from his offer the cost of any work that needs to be done, be it a new roof, new plumbing, new kitchen, etc. You are in the same place with this car. Any prospective buyer will assume that the wood work will need to be redone, and will make their offer accordingly. That is, if they would even want to do the work or find someone qualified and willing to take this project. Yes, there are cars on ebay, Hemmings, etc. with an asking price that is way above yours. However, if you look at the pictures of those cars, the woodwork is nearly flawless, meaning that someone, at some point, paid the very high cost to have it properly restored. Unfortunately, your car doesn't even come close. Again, like everyone else who has given you advice, I am not trying to be cruel. I am trying to communicate to you as precisely as I can why your asking price is unrealistic, and why the car has been on the market for so long. Your car, your life. Best of luck to you whatever you decide to do. John
  4. Mark's contact emailed me, then we spoke at length. He was out of town, but knew a fellow in the area who could go take a look at the car. The car checked out fine; apparently, the fellow who checked out the car knows his stuff, and he even provided an estimated value for the car. The auction is over and the car is not sold, as the reserve was not met. I must say that I am very impressed with how great the members of this group are!! I got a great deal of help from people whom I have never met. Mark's contact was friendly and extremely helpful. Everyone involved was great and no one wanted anything for their time! I will gladly pay it forward. Anything I can do for anyone, just ask. A huge thank you to everyone !! John
  5. There is a 55 Chevy Belair 210 Wagon in Clarkson Washington that I am interested in. However, I am on the East Coast and the Car is on the West Coast. Obviously, I won't bid on or buy the car sight unseen, so if anyone out there is willing to check it out for me or recommend someone in the area who could I would greatly appreciate it. I will, of course, be willing to pay for your time. Thanks. John
  6. This looks like it will work. C&G Ford Parts.
  7. I don't know anything about your horn, so what worked for me may not apply. I have a 51 Ford F1 with a long and a short trumpet horn. I took mine apart and cleaned everything, especially the contacts. I found a lot of junk in the trumpet tubes, including a dried out very old chestnut, so you will want to make sure the snail trail is clear. On these horns, there is a set of contacts that close when power is applied. The adjustment range is very, very narrow on these. Like yours, mine made no sound when connected directly to the battery with jumper cables. The process was to turn the adjusting screw a smidge, touch the positive, and repeat until the horn sounds. There was a spark every time the positive made contact, and I did have to wire brush the jumper cable clamp to remove the burnt spot created with every touch. It took about 30 minutes to find the sweet spot on each horn. Be prepared to jump when it finally sounds!! Again, this may not work for you.
  8. Try methelyne chloride based paint remover. I have used it to remove fully cured epoxy glue from surfaces. Just remember that it is very nasty stuff to work with, and proper safety equipment is a must. I wear chemical resistant full length gloves, a rubber apron, and a full face respirator. And I work outdoors with it, as the fumes are corrosive and will cause flash rust to form on bare metal surfaces exposed to the vapor. I used to refinish furniture for a living, so I have a lot of experience with this chemical. I really don't like working with it, so I have gotten away from refinishing, and only have occassional need of it.
  9. Where is it located? What is the asking price?