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64avanti

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  1. If you have successfully brush painted the woodwork in a house with oil based paint you can paint the frame with a brush. I have done thousands of lineal feet of trim over the years with a brush and oil based paint. Once you get the technique down it's easy. Use a good quality paint, don't over thin it, use the hardener recommended, and you will be fine. PLEASE NOTE: The following process is what works for me. There are other methods that people swear by; this is mine. I found the best method for me is: Sand all surfaces with 220 paper. Corners, tight areas, etc get cut with red scotch Brite. Sweep the floor. Blow off all surfaces in the area. Blow it off. Wipe it with a clean shop cloth. Blow it off again. Tack it. Use a spray bottle to mist the air and lightly spray all surfaces. This brings the dust down to the ground. Wet the floor. Wipe again with a clean shop cloth and tack again. I like to load up my brush and get the paint over a manageable area, working quickly to get it spread evenly I will brush back and forth in several directions to get an even film thickness. I will then brush it out in one direction, then tip off by lightly touching the brush to the surface and, using the weight of the brush only moving in one direction, not back and forth. This step leaves minimal brush strokes. Continue from the wet edge, tipping the fresh paint into the recent paint. The paint should flow out to an almost sprayed appearance. Again, just what I do.
  2. I really wanted to get the 51 F1 out yesterday, 62 and sunny. I resisted the urge. Still too much salt residue on the roads; need a couple of good rains before I venture out. Today is supposed to be 60 and rain. Soon. Very soon.
  3. Please let us know the following: Location of you and the car Once you post that, someone from here will be able to guide you. Beautiful car!
  4. I would not assume that he is giving you the car; if you are wrong, you will ruin a great friendship. I suggest that you decide what it's worth, given the needed repairs from sitting so long, then hand him a check for that amount. If he wants to give you the car, he will refuse to take the check. Absolutely beautiful car.
  5. I have been using methylene chloride stripper for years. I have found that applying a heavy coat and letting it sit for 20 minutes or so burns through most old paint. Scrape it off, then use hot water mixed with 2 tablespoons per gallon of Soilax ( a cleaner available at your local house paint store, used by painters to clean before painting) or Borax Powder, scrub off the remaining stripper and paint. The Soilax acts as an emulsifier, allowing the stripper to mix into the water. Scrub until all paint is removed from all surfaces, cracks, and crevasses. Hose off the wood and wipe dry; I use compressed air to blow the water out of the cracks and crevasses. Let it dry, then sand and finish as desired. Wear full length chemical resistant gloves, an old apron, a vapor respirator, and a face shield. When you get some stripper on your skin, and you will, stop immediately and rinse the affected area with cold water. It will cause chemical burns. MC is highly corrosive, so use outdoors or in a well ventilated area. Once, we stripped a bunch of stuff in our enclosed shop, and the vapors caused every single bit of exposed steel in the shop to flash rust. 4,000 sq. Ft. Shop. Took weeks to clean everything. Great stuff, works like nothing else, but just be careful with it
  6. I used Waldron's for the stainless dual exhaust for my 51 Ford F1. Fit was very good to excellent. I did have to cut and reweld the fitting at the passenger side exhaust manifold because the angle was slightly off. Might have been my fault-as this truck did not come stock with dual exhaust, the passenger side manifold was, IIRC, off of a different Ford, and I may have given Waldron's the wrong part number. It was no big deal-took me 5 minutes to cut off the flange and grind the end of the pipe to the correct angle. I did not have a TIG setup, so I took it to an exhaust shop around the corner and they TIG'ed it for $15.00. Anyway, it fit nicely and sounds great. Just my experience.
  7. Matt, when I tore down the original flathead V8 in my 51 Ford F1, my research revealed the necessity to spend as much time as possible poking, prodding, scraping, and power flushing the water jackets, as flatheads are notorious for large quantities of sand, casting wire, and other debris packed at the back end of the water jackets. No pictures, but I removed about 2 coffee cups of debris with about 4 hours of work. I used stiff wire, long screwdrivers, home made scrapers, a piece of steel cable that I unwound the end of and used in a drill, and my power washer, along with lots of compressed air. This was to the bare block before it went to the rebuild shop, where they did a shake and bake on it before any other work. I didn't think to use the evaporust on it, although I doubt it would have come much cleaner. The engine runs extremely well and stays well within the correct temp range. Of course, I don't know if this applies to your situation, so take it for whatever it is worth to you. John
  8. I have used one of these for years: http://www.thumlerstumbler.com/vibratory.html Works well with the ceramic media for cleaning; I use the walnut shells coated with red compound for polishing if needed. I bought a 5 gallon pail of lubricating liquid from McMaster Carr or MSC that I add with water to help the cut and it keeps the parts from flash rusting. It is not a fast process, usually takes overnight to clean up a load of hardware. I have the UV-18, and I have to be careful not to overload it. When I do put too much weight in it, it overheats and shuts down, which isn't a big problem, as it restarts when cooled. The smaller the unit, the lower its capacity and the longer it will take to clean the parts. I researched them for a while before I bought mine, and the UV-18 seemed to be the smallest effective unit available. I would not recommend the HF or any other of the low cost imports.
  9. It appears that there is no engine, probably no tranny, no wheels, and decades of exposure to the elements. Any moving parts appear to be rusted into a solid mass. Honestly, I think it is too far gone to have any value at all. Are all of the vehicles in this condition? If this is the best of the bunch, then unfortunately you've got nothing but scrap. Sadly, this is a common occurrence, where vehicles are neglected to the point of no return.
  10. The OP has been given tons of great advice from many experienced and knowledgeable folks, who are sincerely trying to help. He has chosen to ignore most of it. I, personally, am done. Everything that can be said has been. I suggest everyone just calls it a day and lets this one die on its own.
  11. After all of the advice you've been given, it really comes down to two choices: Advertise the car everywhere you can, and hold out for how ever long it takes to get the $9,000.00 price. be prepared to have the car for weeks or, most likely, months, until the person comes along who really wants the car and believes that the price is right. OR Advertise the car everywhere you can, accept that you won't get your money back that you have into it, cut your loses, and take whatever you can get for it. Either choice, accept that selling an old car is not going to be easy, or not going to be a lot of work. Take the advice you've been given or don't-your call. Above all, please stop complaining about how much the world sucks. No one wants to hear it.
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