Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BearsFan315

  1. well a suggestion from a few of the guys over on VCCA, they recommended putting a bend or low spot in the tubing and/or putting a copper feed wire on the line. the goal is to keep any oil that may run down the tube from going back through the other side and making a mess. so i ventured into both worlds. another suggestion was to wrap some copper wire around the tube near the top to prevent the tube nut from falling into the rocker arm cavity if you ever loosened it and it slipped through the opening, which would require you to remove the push rod cover and installing a new gasket possibly. the bends came out nicely, will have to clean up the tube a little, and not sure IF i will keep the nut catcher on the top section or not. may have to mentally remind myself ot keep the nut from slipping through if i ever remove the rocker arm anytime down the road.
  2. then was time to oil up and drop in the tappets... i had stored them in a bag with a light coat of oil. then drop in the push rods
  3. Ran the Rocker arm feedline, new copper tubing from the Oil Distributor Valve to the head, through the block. ran it long so that once i get the rocker arms in place I can cut it to length and install the connector that fits into the rocker arms.
  4. Fisher Job No 30551 looks to be a 1930 Chevrolet Coach
  5. For my old Chevrolets 1929 i picked up the Borg Warner BWD E5 from my local parts store. been working fine for me. even have a spare just in case. nice thing they were the same shape and size as my original one, and they are solid black no label on them. so fits right in and looks great
  6. while doing this, i noticed marking on the block i have not seen before... this is on the passenger side/push rod, between the distributor mount & the fuel pump mount. looks to be "10E" any clue to what this is or means ?? considering it stayed on after cleaning and going through the engine tank
  7. this morning, before work I chased the threads on the push rod studs, and then installed the oil return tube, from the head o the block.
  8. thought i took a shot of the copper gasket installed, before the head ? not going back now
  9. Got the Guide Pins in the designated holes per the Repair Manual. cleaned up the block deck and head surface. then cleaned up the copper gasket and put a coat of copper gasket spray on it and let it dry. then dropped the gasket on the block, then placed the head on the gasket, and put in the NEW head bolts. tightened them in stages per Manual in proper order Head is on and secured in place... you can see that the 6.00" long guide pins were perfect for this application, pretty tall head on this 194 !! top down of block cleaned up and guide pins set top down with head in place side view head in place, can see the guide pins head installed and torqued in place
  10. i placed it on my Wooden stand i made years ago. prepping for the head install, i bought 4x .500-13 UNC bolts 6.00" long and cut off the heads and the cut in a slot for guide pins, per the manual this makes installing the gasket and head a lot easier and prevents sliding of the gasket. I did a test and the gasket can only go on in one direction, so can not put it on backwards or upside down. I went with 6.00" long bolts as i knew that they had to be longer than the head is deep or i would not be able to get them back out Was wondering should i spray/coat the head gasket with Copper Gasket spray for extra security ? i know this is a common practice, but is it worth it ?? note pins were randomly installed just for test purposes, they have been relocated and set per the Repair Manual guidelines.
  11. now that the bottom end is done, oil feed lines and Oil Distribution valve & Oil Pump in place, oil pan gasket installed and seated. Time to flip it over and start on the top half. When Flipping it over I used both my Engine Stand & Engine Lift. Wanted to ensure that if it slipped in the stand the Engine Lift would have it Slow and steady wins the race.
  12. finally got in my 2 copper crush washers i have been waiting for. these are for the 2 screws that hold in the dipper distribution blocks/tubes. installed them and now the bottom end oil feed is complete, only oil feed left is the line that runs from the oil distributor valve to the rocker arms. i will install that once i flip it over and get the head set & installed.
  13. https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0177173 Stainless but 3/8-24 thread and slotted Fillister https://www.aspenfasteners.com/search.php?_bc_fsnf=1&search_query=3%2F8"-24+Slotted+Drive+Fillister+Head
  14. I would post this info over on the VCCA chat, they can decipher that info in no time. some of hte Tech Advisers have the data, can tell you where, when, etc... does 5034 match the engine serial number ?? as they were originally titled/registered against the vehicle serial number. here is what i gather from the info... plant number (XH = GENERAL MOTORS NEW ZEALAND LIMITED, PETONE, NEW ZEALAND) series code (LQ = 1929 1.5 Ton Truck) series off the line starting at 1001 (5034 = 4033 truck off hte production line at that plant ? 5034-1001 = 4033) Engine serial number should stamped on a machined boss next to the fuel pump. and usually more than 4 numbers, maybe 6 and that is the number of hte engine down its assembly line and your having RT 490290 would typically mean right hand drive Truck Engine If you look near the distributor, there should be the foundry casting info cast into the block. 835501 is the block cast number, typical for 1929-1931 ish under that ...Letter (A=January, B=February, etc...) ...space/gap ...numeric digit (1 = 1st day or month, 2= 2nd day of month, etc....) ...space/gap ...single digit (9= 1929, 0=1931, etc...) so A 20 9 would mean engine was cast on January 20, 1929 https://www.fillingstation.com/carnumberplates/ http://www.gregwapling.com/hotrod/corvette/1929-30.pdf
  15. installed the oil filter screen and about 95% complete on the oil feed side, just waiting for the 2 1/4" copper crush washers to arrive
  16. New Gasket & New Copper Crush Washer, installed the Oil Distributor Valve
  17. Assembled the Oil Distributor Valve and installed it this morning. First i Test fit everything, then assembled and tightened them in place. New Valve Gasket, New Copper Crush Washer. Now ready to install on the block. Oil Distributor Valve parts laid out in order of assembly Gasket installed New Copper Crush Washer and Brass Inset for Valve Oil Distributor Valve rough assembly Oil Distributor Valve Assembled front side Oil Distributor Valve Assembled rear side Oil Distributor Valve Test Fit on Block
  18. now on to the oil distribution valve. looking at the gasket, seems to be a universal one, so will have to trim off the excess. mainly the large opening in the "L". compared to my 1929 oil distribution valve. next questions, is what are the 2 round washers for ?? i know there is one that goes inside the oil distribution valve, that would the the thinnest one. but does it go on the oil distribution valve side (LEFT of manual sketch) of the valve or the copper screw inset (RIGHT of manual sketch) ?? or one on both sides ?? the other 2 may round washers be for another year as well and i not need them. gasket set oil distribution valve assembly valve portion manual sketch
  19. went to work on my oil feed lines, since i have the coper crush washers for them. took my time laid them out then set them up. put in new hardware as well. then lined up the dipper feeders and ensured they were lines up correctly. then tightened everything down. i am still waiting on some 1/4" copper crush washers before i can tighten down the dipper troughs in place. front main feed lined up rear main feed lined up front dipper troughs lined up rear dipper troughs lined up
  20. decided throw them in a batch of EvapoRust overnight and see what happens. got up and took them out and bammm, remembering why i love this stuff. used it a ton on parts over my restoration.
  21. got a few Dippers from a friend over on VCCA, 2 of mine are busted and the dipper is lose and flops around.
  22. here is where we sit right now... will clean up the components and get everything installed and set.
  23. 3- did a test fit off the oil distribution valve, then removed it and tore it down and doing a thorough cleaning of it. making sure to be careful with the spring valve section, does not look they are available out there, so do not want to destroy it.
  • Create New...