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Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61


38Buick 80C

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On 1/2/2021 at 3:15 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

3rd (technically second) brake light installed...

IMG_20210102_151237.thumb.jpg.dd24f602b5948f6fae16564fa02baca0.jpg

 

 

And when I want to disconnect it...

 

 

Also I can make similar harness for the 80C and the 87 if I wanted to transfer between cars (which I may)

May I make a suggestion - Perhaps have your upholsterer open up some sort of slot behind back seat to drop the cord down ? 

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2 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:

May I make a suggestion - Perhaps have your upholsterer open up some sort of slot behind back seat to drop the cord down ? 

John,

I don't want it to be permanent. I want to be able to remove it the minute I get to the showfield.  The trunk will hide the wire a bit better when driving.

 

Also want to be able to move it from car to car to car.

 

That said I did consider, at one point, what you suggest.

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On 1/2/2021 at 4:58 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

Well I wanted to run some of the pilot ray light linkage this afternoon... that didn't go well. The hardware just doesn't seem to want to work with the steering arms. Gonna have to do some custom fabrication or something... definitely moving to plan B...

 

On the good news front I found the correct rear view mirror mounting hardware. Painting it up now.

You seem to have the correct clip bracket for the steering column (and the flat stock 3/4 x 4.25 inch-ish bracket /clamp is clanp bracket is what would use to mount the linkage too), you have the correct center pivot (but it may need a spacer for alignment), you have what looks to be the 4 correct clevis's & pins, 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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3 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:

You seem to have the correct clip bracket for the steering column (and the flat stock 3/4 x 4.25 inch-ish bracket /clam is clap bracket is what would use to mount the linkage too), you have the correct center pivot (but it may need a spacer for alignment), you have what looks to be the 4 correct clevis's & pins, 

 

It the connection to the steering arm off the steering box that I'm struggling with.

 

I'm gonna punt and let a professional handle it. It'll be easier with less drama.

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1 minute ago, 38Buick 80C said:

 

It the connection to the steering arm off the steering box that I'm struggling with.

 

I'm gonna punt and let a professional handle it. It'll be easier with less drama.

Shoot a picture - it is a one size fits all arm ( part # 1 and part # A-2 ) and should pretty much just clamp up without issue, but then I have put 20 plus of them on cars over time and do understand fit is a little "sloppy" so you may have some concern.

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John the way the steering arm is made the ring of the #1 piece does have anything to go over and the whole thing just slides around. I'm thinking it would be better to have a new #1 fabricated the fits more with the contour of the arm. Problem #2 is the clearance between the arm and the fender...or lack thereof... Required me to grind off the table or risk damage to the fender. IMG_20210109_141525_1.thumb.jpg.874d0659e4603f3c84602d1466accd29.jpg

IMG_20210109_141445.thumb.jpg.e4ce4693052b1740d4561cd5f8faf982.jpg

 

 

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Took the car outside the neighborhood for the first time today. I wanted to get gas at the station with ethanol free about a mile from the house. Had two minor incidents.

 

First I got up to about 30 mph and had a heck of death wobble going on, so turned around immediately and went home... Long story short an inspection revealed I forgot to tighten the lug nuts on the front wheels... no harm no foul, tightened them off and set off again. No further wobble got up to about 45 mph.

 

Filled up and made my way home. On the way home the street I am off of goes from 4 lane divided to 2 lane undivided with a suicide lane. Just after a traffic light where this change occurs I shifted into 3rd a bit to early so chugged up the hill slowly with a truck all over my ass (late model Chevy Silverado with some mods).  I waved the guy by via the suicide lane through the rear window (couldn't roll down the DS window as I didn't have the crank attached). He proceeds to pull up directly along side, but I was eyes forward concentrating on driving this car. He then proceeds to sharply cut in front of me and slow down. I have to slow to a stop and regroup... between not understanding what this guy is doing and with all the double clutching and general lack of familiarity with the car it take me a sec to get going. By this point I have a whole stack of cars behind me which I'm not excited about but whatever.  Also he has decide to turn sideways in the road and block both directions of traffic, while obviously yelling at me. So though I got rolling again I now stop a second time and regroup.  He then comes past me in the opposite direction window down hanging out yelling at me. I have no idea what he was saying over the noise of the car. I flipped him off and headed home knowing that if he was mad at me for being slow he was now headed the wrong direction and when he turns around again behind a huge line of cars with me in the lead at 35mph happy as a clam... Dumb @$$ redneck...

 

I mean really c'mon people...Wish I had the Go Pro going, which I had thought about doing to mark the occasion, oh well...you cant fix stupid

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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I agree, you can't fix stupid.  Be careful, though, road rage is everywhere.  Last week In Randolph, MA, an innocent mother and son were shot/wounded victims as a result of a maniac taking out road rage.  

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Wow!  It sure doesn't pay to taunt these types.  I often pull over and stop to let those folks pass and then just go again when I can.  But even that can get some of those guys & gals into a hissy fit.  Maybe the jacka$$ pooped his pants while behind you?   🤔

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Crazy people are real and they are among us. I usually give them one of these--even the kooks have no idea what to make of it:

 

CloseKindDoe-size_restricted.gif

 

Also, as I've learned during my walks to work, guys in jacked 4x4 pickups (Dodge drivers are by far the worst) seem to be constantly looking for trouble.

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Maybe he was yelling at you to pull over because he wanted to buy your beautiful Buick!

That actually happened to me once...sold a 71 Chevelle sedan while driving on I-75 in Detroit.

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Hang in there, Brian.  So sorry to hear about your experience, but it sounds like you handled it in the best way possible for your own safety.  My '41 keeps up with traffic pretty well, but I'm amazed at how oblivious some drivers are to the fact that I'm driving a nearly 80-year-old vehicle.  I enjoy the "thumbs up" responses and respect from most drivers, but some people just don't get it and probably never will.

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On 1/9/2021 at 1:44 PM, John_Mereness said:

A good horse saddle shop, a good pet store, Farm & Fleet, or ...  - I would try for Black if replacing. 

 

It occurred to me that when the car goes to the upholstery shop I will see if he can make something. I agree on black.

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On 1/1/2021 at 3:55 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

As promised here are the parts of the headlight I am missing. With these i got from the eBay headlight I need one of each

image000000.thumb.jpg.273ae90c0bbf0c15635f7af8f3d10c19.jpg

 

#1 this is the lamp housing that goes into the reflector, note the riveted bracket

 

#2 This is the clip to hold the mounts for the Buick emblem bar between the headlights

 

#3 This goes int he base area and holds the threaded part that goes into the mounting bar. It is riveted in place from the factory as is the whole base apparatus

 

#4 This is the headlight adjustment screw. it goes in the back of the housing shell and the spring goes around it. It has holes for cotter pins near the head and at the tip. It goes through item #1

 

#5 The is the female (reflector side) lighting connection that goes in the the screw base things and is held in place by a set screw. The wires of #5 were at one point connected to the wires of #1, but I cut them.

 

#6 This goes under the base apparatus thing that is riveted in place and goes through the housing shell. It is used to secure the outer trim ring that the glass goes into.

 

 

If anyone has a source for these I'd appreciate it. I really don't want to have to buy whole other headlight assembly just to get these silly bits.

 

OK I'm down to just needing #5. I've pretty much sourced all the rest.

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The car made it to the shop. A 10 mile trip (only had 4 miles on the car previously). I did not exceed 45 mph. Maybe halfway there she did spike up almost to 200 on the gauge...then quickly went down to 160 almost like a thermostat opened. It was very strange because it stayed generally around 160 for the remainder of the trip perhaps creeping up to about under 180 at times. I believe another flush might be in order (or maybe it was an air bubble in the system).

 

It was an uneventful drive in the grand scheme of things.

 

From the shop I got a ride over to the place nearby where I store 2 cars (at the moment both '38s). I snagged the model 87 so I can put the running boards I had redone up in Canada on the car this weekend.  What a huge difference 8 years make. Granted I am far more confident at this point in my model 87's road worthiness as perhaps by best driver, but it is SUCH a huge difference driving them back to back. With 2 more cylinders, synchronized transmission, hydraulic brakes and 4 wheel coil springs it's a completely different driving experience all around. The '38 seems so much more capable of being in modern traffic. Certainly 8 years difference in age of today's cars is not near the massive experience change that 8 years from '30 to '38 was (in reality I venture to guess '36 would feel comparable to '38 so it's actually only 6 years difference in tech).

 

When the '30 is done at the shop effectively the exterior portion of the restoration will also be complete.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

The shops says they are hopeful to have the car returned to me late next week. I visited yesterday and the roof thing I asked the to tack down better is in rough shape with no real wood under it. They have a solution so... also they had the crank hole cover back together and were making progress on the pilot ray linkage. The paint supplier is closed as they all have COVID, lovely, but hopefully the hood will be painted shortly. The buffing had also started and so far so good.

 

I found a socket... hopefully should arrive soon and with that I can complete the headlights and the shop can install. 

 

The shop wants to fix my door alignment too so I'm good with that.

 

I have some fabric samples arriving from SMS and i need to get the interior pieces to the pinstriper this week, but it looks like she will be off to the upholstery shop soon. I doubt it but i might have an outside chance of getting it done for Charlotte autofair.

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On 1/9/2021 at 2:19 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

John the way the steering arm is made the ring of the #1 piece does have anything to go over and the whole thing just slides around. I'm thinking it would be better to have a new #1 fabricated the fits more with the contour of the arm. Problem #2 is the clearance between the arm and the fender...or lack thereof... Required me to grind off the table or risk damage to the fender. IMG_20210109_141525_1.thumb.jpg.874d0659e4603f3c84602d1466accd29.jpg

IMG_20210109_141445.thumb.jpg.e4ce4693052b1740d4561cd5f8faf982.jpg

 

 

It need not go all the way to the bottom - no engineering need, though should have the loop over the nut (it needs a couple of minutes of vice and hammer time) 

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29 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:

It need not go all the way to the bottom - no engineering need, though should have the loop over the nut (it needs a couple of minutes of vice and hammer time) 

 

Well it's handled... I took a brief look at it the other day I think they made a new piece. Supposedly the linkage is now complete and functioning. I haven't been by since they finished that. 

 

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On 2/1/2021 at 6:03 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

I'm pleased with how the linkage turned out with the stainless... Probably need to paint that black, but I kinda like it bare metal.

 

IMG_20210201_090847.thumb.jpg.92715d1c0fc89c2449930dedf52397fd.jpg

 

 

Just leave it alone and then someday in your few time polish the linkage - I have had NOS originals and most linkages were bare steel, but I did have one NOS kit that was chrome (albeit you would destroy finish cutting and tapping certain unfinished ends of the rod stock).   

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