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Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61


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On 12/13/2020 at 3:22 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

 

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Strikes me that you are looking at someones attempt to make this fit in some other way than attended - the chrome brackets on lamp bar look to be for mounting on the bumper bar (and the rounded clamps are more for the tube bar, but also not something that was typically supplied with these lamps - ie. the tube bar mounting uses other parts).  Basically, you are missing two flat plates, though should be easy enough to make out of some stainless flat stock or could be cut out of steel and painted.  

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Sidenote:  You may have to fiddle with the radiator level - usually just over fins to an inch above fins is fine and if you fill to top of radiator it will puke its guts.  Sorry, if we covered this earlier.  

 

If lower radiator hose has a wire, the shutters are staying open, the thermostat is installed as it is a flow restrictor, the impeller is fixed to water pump shaft, water pump not sucking air, water distribution tube is good, timing is proper, and ... - you are then down to such as good head/block, good headgasket, good radiator, and/or ...   If it really is overheating, you need to bite the bullet an fix it - it is really hard on castings and parts to overheat a car repeatedly (aka how things crack). 

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10 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

..., the thermostat is installed as it is a flow restrictor... 

What thermostat?

 

Where does THAT go in this system? Can't think of any obvious location for that and it's not like a 38 straight 8 with the convoluted bypass contraption.

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On 12/18/2020 at 5:49 AM, 38Buick 80C said:

What thermostat?

 

Where does THAT go in this system? Can't think of any obvious location for that and it's not like a 38 straight 8 with the convoluted bypass contraption.

The Sylphon for the radiator shutters is also a flow restrictor (found out the hard way with a 1931 Cadillac we purchased) - if by any chance you have the Sylphon removed and have installed a flat plate instead, then car will overheat.  You can however, install a bad Sylphon and leave the shutters disconnected. 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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2 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:

car will overheat.  You can however, install a bad syphon and leave the shutters disconnected.

John, do you mean the "Sylphon" style thermostat?  If so, the fellow in TN who used to rebuild them reportedly sold the business to Scott Henningsen of Calif, who is now rebuilding them and actually reproducing them as well. 

scotthenningsen (at) aol (dot) com

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2 minutes ago, Grimy said:

John, do you mean the "Sylphon" style thermostat?  If so, the fellow in TN who used to rebuild them reportedly sold the business to Scott Henningsen of Calif, who is now rebuilding them and actually reproducing them as well. 

scotthenningsen (at) aol (dot) com

Thanks.  Also, a really good set of 'rust free from new" shutters when disconnected can actually close via wind while driving - I usually block open and most of my 30's cars have had chrome wire stoneguards so no one notices shutters standing open. 

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I am also very pleased these days with modern radiator cores verses honeycombs, but still have a honeycomb made now and then - I go with Brassworks and just ask for whatever is close enough verses exact.  

 

As I sidenote:  A friend is wrapping up Alfa Romeo 1750 and bill for radiator should come in just a little over 40K after re-painting shell (the only thing else that comes close in cost is a 1930's Mercedes). 

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Brian, yes all the shutter-controlling Sylphon thermostats that I've seen are set into the top tank.

 

If your shutters have been rechromed, the pivot pins (top and bottom) of each slat/shutter may not operate as smoothly as designed if the pivot pins were not protected from the plating process.  I learned this the hard way on my 1934 Pierce!  The fairly-strong spring tries to keep the shutters closed and reluctant pivots add to that effort, and in my case "killed" the thermostat.  So every year or two, I use an aerosol lubricant on the top and bottom pivots--once while closed, once while open (hot).  A word to the wise...

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54 minutes ago, 38Buick 80C said:

In the Buick the Slyphon is not inside the radiator but in a hole through the upper tank. I had mine rebuilt by the guy in TN.

That works - as long as you have it in the upper tank working or not working - all good at least on that "front".

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1 hour ago, John_Mereness said:

I am also very pleased these days with modern radiator cores verses honeycombs, but still have a honeycomb made now and then - I go with Brassworks and just ask for whatever is close enough verses exact.  

 

As I sidenote:  A friend is wrapping up Alfa Romeo 1750 and bill for radiator should come in just a little over 40K after re-painting shell (the only thing else that comes close in cost is a 1930's Mercedes). 

WOW!

 

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had some minor surgery back on the 18th, elective and nothing serious, but knocked me out of commission for the past week and still not at 100%. That and the cold temps.

 

I did get the running boards back from the wood shop for the second time. All is going to work out well. I had them plane the boards thinner, bevel the out side edge, drill some holes I couldn't on my press and create some depressions so the elevator bolts will sit flush.

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Then today I started with the marine spar varnish

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Looks even better in the sun. Too bad these get painted black and covered. I do love the look of varnished mahogany.

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Letting those dry before I paint them black. Then moved on to the driver's side mirror I got from Bob's. I do hate these door hinge mounted mirrors. In this case I didn't put the hinge together and paint it but one of these days I will figure out a better way to do these in prior to painting or something like that. Well it's done and I need to do some touch up paint.

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Since this 90 year old car simply wasn't made for modern traffic and one brake light seems so insufficient for distracted drivers I want to add another but something I can remove for shows. 

 

Thus I bought this 6V motorcycle 3rd brake light. It has tail light, brake and turn signal functions too. I bought some magnetic tape as well and some quick disconnects. I will run the tail light and brake light only for now. Might see about using the turn signals in the future.

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I need to make a body harness now, but don't really want to lie under the car just yet. 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Over the next week I'd really like to get the running boards done... I.e. mats and trim complete and 100% bolted to the car.

 

With that and the third brake light I feel like it's ready to go to the paint shop for buffing and hood install. And then from there to the upholstery shop for final bits there. 

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I got an extra headlight from eBay and took it mostly apart. I'm definitely missing some pieces. I noticed on the photos from 1985 when the car came home there were no headlights on the car. I asked dad if he recalled if he got them with the car or bought them separately and he doesn't. I suspect he bought the pieces separately and that's why we are missing so much.

 

I have one more thing I disassemble and then I will post photos of the pieces I will need. 

 

 

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I also got the metal rod I need for the linkage of the pilot ray light. Need to cut it and thread it for the heim joints. Won't do that until I get it bolted on. I agree I need some flat stock as @John_Mereness suggested. 

 

so even though I was out of commission things still progressed.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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I put the side mount hardware on as well after finding the correct rubber grommet a weeks back and mow having the running board for support. I mostly just wanted to get the wheel out of the way in the garage.

 

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For good measure I put the passenger side hub caps on too

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I got this side mount mirror from Bob's. I really like it, but the leather strap is too short. Anyone have a source for a longer one.

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Posted (edited)

As promised here are the parts of the headlight I am missing. With these i got from the eBay headlight I need one of each

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#1 this is the lamp housing that goes into the reflector, note the riveted bracket

 

#2 This is the clip to hold the mounts for the Buick emblem bar between the headlights

 

#3 This goes int he base area and holds the threaded part that goes into the mounting bar. It is riveted in place from the factory as is the whole base apparatus

 

#4 This is the headlight adjustment screw. it goes in the back of the housing shell and the spring goes around it. It has holes for cotter pins near the head and at the tip. It goes through item #1

 

#5 The is the female (reflector side) lighting connection that goes in the the screw base things and is held in place by a set screw. The wires of #5 were at one point connected to the wires of #1, but I cut them.

 

#6 This goes under the base apparatus thing that is riveted in place and goes through the housing shell. It is used to secure the outer trim ring that the glass goes into.

 

 

If anyone has a source for these I'd appreciate it. I really don't want to have to buy whole other headlight assembly just to get these silly bits.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

I put the side mount hardware on as well after finding the correct rubber grommet a weeks back and mow having the running board for support. I mostly just wanted to get the wheel out of the way in the garage.

 

image000000.thumb.jpg.04f44b3cae397bcf2fc4c5e52ed7d457.jpg

 

For good measure I put the passenger side hub caps on too

image000001.thumb.jpg.e2bee8007ef7df7fbb8b9849c830f131.jpgimage000003.thumb.jpg.dafc64cc4818eecbf2906cf1e603f288.jpg

 

I got this side mount mirror from Bob's. I really like it, but the leather strap is too short. Anyone have a source for a longer one.

image000002.thumb.jpg.d0e8a1e6a934e501284395096ff831d0.jpg

Brian.

Try this guy. They should be able to help you.

When you see their sidemout mirrors you may wish you had seen this guy first.

Great quality.

 

Classic Parts Shop » White Glove Collection

 

 

 

 

Edited by Dave Gelinas (XP-300) (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

3rd (technically second) brake light installed...

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And when I want to disconnect it...

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Also I can make similar harness for the 80C and the 87 if I wanted to transfer between cars (which I may)

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Well I wanted to run some of the pilot ray light linkage this afternoon... that didn't go well. The hardware just doesn't seem to want to work with the steering arms. Gonna have to do some custom fabrication or something... definitely moving to plan B...

 

On the good news front I found the correct rear view mirror mounting hardware. Painting it up now.

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52 minutes ago, Dave Gelinas (XP-300) said:

Awesome.

Where did you find that mirror?

I must say I have not seem the version before.

 

I didn't... Dad did, he's been saving it for a LONG time.

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I got the DS running board all bolted up the other night. Today is Pilot Ray Light...

 

I got some stainless steel bar stock and made some brackets as suggested and bolted the pilot ray up to the bumper bracket.

 

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I need to run the electrical still today. Then I am going to let my shop do the linkage as I think some new things may need to be fabricated. The car is supposed to go to the shop Monday.

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On 1/1/2021 at 3:34 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

 

I got this side mount mirror from Bob's. I really like it, but the leather strap is too short. Anyone have a source for a longer one.

image000002.thumb.jpg.d0e8a1e6a934e501284395096ff831d0.jpg

A good horse saddle shop, a good pet store, Farm & Fleet, or ...  - I would try for Black if replacing. 

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