38Buick 80C

Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61

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Dad bought this car in 1985. I will post some photos of when he brought it home.

 

He began a soup to nuts restoration on it until 1994, but never completed it. Since then it has been relocated to 3 temporary homes and he "sold" it to me about 15 years ago. Terms of the sale were "Hey you are buying this from me and here is what you are paying me."

 

Tuesday after Hershey this year I brought it home from storage (swapping the 80C into storage). Goal is to drive it on the showfield in Concord for the 2021 BCA National in a reasonably complete state.

 

 

 

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Today I gave it a bath and took some photos. I have a few things more to complete on my 69 Charger and then can start in earnest.

 

First goal is brake, second is getting it running again, then driving. Then finish the paint and then the interior. There is minor deterioration of the restoration in the past 25 years, but I don't intend to go all the way back to zero and instead treat it as a sympathetic restoration.

 

 

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some photos from November 1985 When dad brought the car home. That's my brother in the hat...and that little guy seems familiar. Also "Big 6" at the time of the photo.

 

also found a couple undated progress photos

 

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Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

Since the kids didn't have any soccer this weekend and there are absolutely no sports on TV and I mowed the lawn and work on the 2021 Website and everything else I can do I decided it was time to get going on the 30, which I had been lacking motivation to begin.

 

Now getting ready to be Corona-quarantined so who knows I may get a lot done.

Image result for coronavirus meme beer

 

I started with a sympathetic restoration of the front suspension.

 

Here are the before pictures

IMG_20200315_112631.thumb.jpg.3cd6657691944e06d8048857dee937aa.jpg

 

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And then Progress photos

 

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And this is where i ended the day.

 

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and here is what I learned

 

1. The passenger side shock is leaking and or not functioning properly

2. the front bolts for the shock were not correct for size and thread

3. I had to stop while putting the tie rod ends back in the back plate rods. The studs of the tire-rods are just spinning as I tighten the bolt, not sure how I will solve that one

4. the leather on the "upper A- Arms" was brittle and will need to be replaced, so I haven't installed those back yet

5. I'm not exactly sure the purpose of the wire contraption thing on the tire rods (currently in the bottom right corner of a couple "after" photos. it seems to bolt around the tie-rod and them rub against the front axle.

6. I still have to put all the cotter pins back in and hook up the brakes (but got to repaint all those rods and linkages first).

 

 

 

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C
added photos at better sizing and added more details (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

Kept going on the 30 today it was good to get away from the crisis that has been my work all week, though I was "on call" all day, some false alarms but no major scares today, which is REALLY good news.  Not going to go into detail but been a tough week keeping stores open.

 

Any way finished up the suspension  that I could as I need new leather for the upper control arms. But i got them all ready to go back on except for that. I also got the the front brake linkages clean up repainted and reinstalled but not connected yet to the drums. Sorry no pictures of that.

 

I know that I need to have the radiator chrome slats redone as the chrome is flaking so net set was to remove the radiator. I didn't know if there was still coolant in it and couldn't get the pi-cock open so I decided to simply take the lower radiator hose loose and see if coolant would spew... it didn't...

 

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So I removed the radiator

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I by chance touched the freeze plug on the head and it did this

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I checked the others and the two on the side of the block also failed the one in front of the block was good but i decided to replace it. I also decides i needed to de-dress the motor for a clean up and repaint

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My concern was weather there are freeze plugs on the back of the head and block against the fire wall here

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So I used my endoscope and  sure enough

Head                                                                                                                                                                                            Block

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So I'm gonna pull the head. I don't know what to do about the one on the block. I really don't want to pull the motor. The one in the front was good, so???? I think I will flush it and see if I can see if it is leaking any. Also with the head off and after the flush I can get the endoscope in for a better look at it.

 

Tomorrow I will de-dress the rest of the motor and pull the head, but then move on to something else. I want to conserve cash for a bit so engine re work will have to wait for engine paint, freeze plugs, gasket set etc. to be ordered once I am confident we are past the worst of this mess we are in.

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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Unfortunately a lot bigger job and a lot bigger step backwards  than I was expecting in order to go forward, but at least it will be right.

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Posted (edited)
On 3/16/2020 at 9:49 AM, 38Buick 80C said:

<snip>

5. I'm not exactly sure the purpose of the wire contraption thing on the tire rods (currently in the bottom right corner of a couple "after" photos. it seems to bolt around the tie-rod and them rub against the front axle.

<snip>

As post 20 here by JHBoland?

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/341524-wayne’s-death-wobble/

 

Quote

One of the first times I drove my '21 Chevy,I went over a set of railway tracks and the steering wheel just about jumped out of my hands. It must have looked weird from the outside with the front wheels wobbling like that.

I installed a genuine Hercules shimmy chaser (and tightened the center link cups) which helped considerably., although I still slow down for railway tracks."

 

 

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)
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14 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Unfortunately a lot bigger job and a lot bigger step backwards  than I was expecting in order to go forward, but at least it will be right.

 

I can relate as to "bigger job than expected" syndrome Brian.

Not unlike what Matt is finding with his Buick... so we are in good company revealing the reality about vehicles sitting for long periods of time.

 

My Special is apart discovering a few things I didn't figure on and with the National deadline looming was at first sweating having it in good order for that as spring is usually my ramp up time for work. That expectation has now been put on hold and with our City in a State of Emergency, find I have the time to poke away on the car (and get out from underfoot).  

That part is the good thing I guess. I need to shut the news off and get to it and check in on the Forums to keep motivated.

 

Keep your progress coming as it helps us to do the same.

 

Stay Well,

Doug

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Posted (edited)

Doug, it appears that Brian has the garage door open and sun shining! Up this way we have no sun and the roofs were white with heavy frost this AM. We could use some sun and warmth and I would be more inclined to do some cleanin’ and wrenchen’!

Edited by g-g-g0 (see edit history)
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Nice project, look at it this way - at least the work your dad did allows you a somewhat more clean and easier project today 

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Posted (edited)

de-dressed the motor and firewall.

 

I was able to get my finger to the freeze plug at the rear of the block, it disintegration. So  I got to pull the motor at least enough to punch out the rear freeze plugs and replace them and repaint the block. Gonna do brass plugs this time.

 

I'm thinking about trying to pull the motor, trans, torque tube/axle forward as a unit in lieu of splitting it at the torque ball as it isn't leaking so I want leave it alone. Plus I need to repaint a lot of stuff under there anyway.

 

My concern is how close the motor is to the firewall when I pull it up I will need to be very careful it goes up straight.

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Here are the rest of the photos from today's progress  and a video of the compressed air clean out of the water jacket...that was "Fun"

 

both freeze plus here shot

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de-dressed motor each side

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floor boards and trans mounted stuff (pedals, parking brake , etc) removed to allow everything to shift forwards

 

image000000.thumb.jpg.661191559e3b10ca14a1f77526090af0.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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gonna have to watch Matt's video on the 41Limited and the car that shall not be named once the freeze plugs are in to see about getting the rest of the crap out of the water passages.

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Question...

At this point I don't see a need to remove the head.

 

BUT, should I replace the head gasket???

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6 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

Nice project, look at it this way - at least the work your dad did allows you a somewhat more clean and easier project today 

 

Yes John, definitely the cleanest restoration project I've done to date.  And dad used a bunch of stainless steel nuts and bolts so most are free and easy to break free.

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I've long admired your attitude, Brian. You seem to tackle the problems with a "no big deal" attitude that I wish I could duplicate for myself. Your front suspension work is making me think I should rebuild the Lincoln's front end while the engine is out, and suddenly it doesn't look like that big a mountain to climb. Thanks for keeping us grounded.

 

As for flushing the block, I think you should start by simply running a garden hose through it backwards and see what it knocks loose. That will also allow you to see if the other core plugs are holding. Filling it with Evapo-Rust or some other rust-eater might not be a bad idea. While I hooked up a pump to circulate it, I'm not entirely convinced that's necessary. I kind of think plugging everything and filling it up and letting it soak for a week, then draining, flushing, and refilling for another soak might be just as effective. Time is your ally with that sort of solution. Pulling the engine is a big job (or is it?) and maybe doing all you can before it comes to that could save you some heavy lifting (literally and figuratively). 

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11 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

I've long admired your attitude, Brian. You seem to tackle the problems with a "no big deal" attitude that I wish I could duplicate for myself.

 

Considering the current sate of global affairs in this instance at least, the issues with this car are entirely within my control to correct. Given time and resources I can correct them...

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14 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Question...

At this point I don't see a need to remove the head.

 

BUT, should I replace the head gasket???

 

My opinion is that:

The clog in the hose is likley the inner spring in the hose, assuming there was one in there to begin with.

The deteriorated core plugs likely dropped more rust and scale to the bottom of the engine block.

I would have to assume that the head gasket similarly rusted in place. 

That plus:

The head is already accessible without the front fenders in way. 

And removal of the head would provide some additional access to remove deep packed debris from the block. 

Therefore I would suggest now is the time to pull that head off and change the gasket.

 

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