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Carolina Roadmasters: Taking over where Dad left off - 1930 Buick Series 61


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On 12/3/2020 at 9:55 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

 

I hadn't considered, that the hose may be collapsing, that said I would think:

1. it's not really under load and I've only experienced hose collapse under load where the water pump (in a modern V8) creates such a suction the hose collapses

2. with the drain tube thing I had "reproduced" (I mean I guessed at what it might be like based on photos of other cars) the rubber hose lengths on this car are pretty short all things considered.

 

But I'm gonna be watching for that none the less now that you said something, if nothing but to cross it off the list of possibilities. Thanks for the reminder.

 

Yes, you generally need acceleration to collapse a hose - idle will not do it (that is how people miss the issue). 

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Ok I started the car yesterday and she ran well, definitely could tell the proper timing made a difference.

 

Today after soccer game I had a chance to do a test drive. Here is the edited video. You'll see I stalled out and edited it until I realized  needed the electric fuel pump to help. Also later in the drive I realized the parking brake was still engaged.

 

 

She did a burn out though...

image000005.thumb.jpg.5c999ad5c21335747c94020f03f6cc77.jpg

 

Also no overheating during the test drive. As you can see it wasn't a long drive and the ambient temp is cool so will have to check on this again.

 

After the test drive I swapped her bay in the garage and installed the front bumper

image000000.thumb.jpg.48e7065e1bc7c3e1a804c03a1f4c9b21.jpg

 

and test fit installed some of the wood grained trim

image000002.thumb.jpg.44c7b2fee21ee45ac1ff224d155f84ff.jpgimage000001.thumb.jpg.9d2539e73f01701ad6098f204d57d448.jpg

Finally I messed around with the side-mount hardware to see how it installs. I took it back off after these photos cause a) I still need to get the correct size rubber grommet at the cowl and b) because I don't want the hardware or the tire in the way when the car goes in for buff.

 

Tomorrow I need to sand two piece of wood grain to be re-done as the wrinkled during the clear coat.

 

aside from that i need to take some pieces to some third party folks

1. some wood grained pieces to the pinstriper

2. the rope rail mounts to the machine shop to be honed and also gonna have the shop make some correct 7/16 counter sunk slotted screws for the gas tank cover

3. running board back to the wood shop to have some adjustments and drilling etc done.

 

 

image000003.jpg

image000004.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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8 minutes ago, John_Mereness said:

Strikes me starting out as possible fuel delivery or needs to run more rich (or possibly timing as you mention) - you seem to be doing better in the home stretch. 

 

well I think its a combo of

1. parking brake engaged

2. not much fuel in the tank so a pick up problem solved by running the electric pump

3. not warmed up enough.

 

I need to experiment some more, but yes after the stall was much better. also need to learn how to tackle the un-synchronized shifting. I got to get that double clutch method down I guess. 

 

I did add 5 more gallons after this run.

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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anyone have info on the vacuum system for the wiper, specifically what happens under dash?

 

I have

1. the line from the intake through the firewall into the under dash

2. the 2 lines coming from the wiper over the header and down the passenger A-post to the under dash.

3. the "switch" with one port on one side and 2 on the other so one would assume

      a. line in item #1 goes to the one port side

      b. lines from the wiper go in the 2 port side (but which one in which port or does it matter

 

and since the lines in #1 and #2 terminate nowhere close to the switch, I'm curious as to whether rubber tube or metal tube is used to connect them and routing, etc. photos would be an immense help.

 

Thanks.

 

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24 minutes ago, 38Buick 80C said:

anyone have info on the vacuum system for the wiper, specifically what happens under dash?

 

I have

1. the line from the intake through the firewall into the under dash

2. the 2 lines coming from the wiper over the header and down the passenger A-post to the under dash.

3. the "switch" with one port on one side and 2 on the other so one would assume

      a. line in item #1 goes to the one port side

      b. lines from the wiper go in the 2 port side (but which one in which port or does it matter

 

and since the lines in #1 and #2 terminate nowhere close to the switch, I'm curious as to whether rubber tube or metal tube is used to connect them and routing, etc. photos would be an immense help.

 

Thanks.

 

 

I’ll take a look at mine and let you know.

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4 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

anyone have info on the vacuum system for the wiper, specifically what happens under dash?

 

I have

1. the line from the intake through the firewall into the under dash

2. the 2 lines coming from the wiper over the header and down the passenger A-post to the under dash.

3. the "switch" with one port on one side and 2 on the other so one would assume

      a. line in item #1 goes to the one port side

      b. lines from the wiper go in the 2 port side (but which one in which port or does it matter

 

and since the lines in #1 and #2 terminate nowhere close to the switch, I'm curious as to whether rubber tube or metal tube is used to connect them and routing, etc. photos would be an immense help.

 

Thanks.

 

 

It was hard to get good photos with the car under a cover. Hopefully this helps. If not, I should be able to do a better job in a day or so.

 

The first photo is the under-dash side of the switch (the left side heads to the passenger side and the right to the driver). The tube on the right goes through the firewall in front of the driver (shown in the 2nd picture). The two tubes on the left are black, but feel like metal, and go to the A pillar base in front of the passenger (3rd photo). 

F7AF7083-00AB-4C4C-8C0F-9C6C6BAA825E.jpeg

84F5C7F1-870A-4F97-A6D3-5399BD59EF2D.jpeg

73620C9C-7BDD-423B-B442-3E26BCF44429.jpeg

Edited by Car-Nicopia (see edit history)
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7 hours ago, Car-Nicopia said:

 

It was hard to get good photos with the car under a cover. Hopefully this helps. If not, I should be able to do a better job in a day or so.

 

The first photo is the under-dash side of the switch (the left side heads to the passenger side and the right to the driver). The tube on the right goes through the firewall in front of the driver (shown in the 2nd picture). The two tubes on the left are black, but feel like metal, and go to the A pillar base in front of the passenger (3rd photo). 

F7AF7083-00AB-4C4C-8C0F-9C6C6BAA825E.jpeg

84F5C7F1-870A-4F97-A6D3-5399BD59EF2D.jpeg

73620C9C-7BDD-423B-B442-3E26BCF44429.jpeg

perfect, this is what I needed. Of course mine is a bit different but I will figure it out.

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15 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

I got to get that double clutch method down I guess. 

Yep.

It will become much easier with practice and then you will find that it behaves differently with cold vs hot tranny fluid.  And eventually you will learn how to slip the gears without a clutch!

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21 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

 

well I think its a combo of

1. parking brake engaged

2. not much fuel in the tank so a pick up problem solved by running the electric pump

3. not warmed up enough.

 

I need to experiment some more, but yes after the stall was much better. also need to learn how to tackle the un-synchronized shifting. I got to get that double clutch method down I guess. 

 

I did add 5 more gallons after this run.

 

Some cars do not need double clutched, but not sure if this is one of those - the ones that do not need double clutched, do take confidence/certainty though. 

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Did a few minor things today.

 

1. Rechecked the valve lash

 

2. Re-routed the horn wiring harness properly through the fire wall

 

3. Installed one missing fender running board bracket

 

And the biggest job of the day was working on the brake light, which I noticed wasn't coming on.

 

Long story short is first I had a bad ground, solved that but have determined the stop light switch is not functioning. I did put in a nice bright LED for the stop light. I determined it wasn't working by and did the following diagnosis.

1. Bypassing it with a jumper wire (Which is how I determined the bad ground)

2. Disconnected the linkage and moved it manually, no joy

3. Swapped the wires on the switch and manually moved the linkage, no joy

 

I believe I have a spare switch. I will have to see how it works and see if I can get it sorted out on the bench and then swap them.

 

I did notice my tail light work in parking and bright setting, but not in dim setting, that seems incorrect but will have to research it. Hoping to get all the lighting sorted even though I don't have the headlights installed yet.

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I have a spare light switch, but not a stop light switch. I disassembled and rebuilt/cleaned up the light switch for use, but guess I will have to remove and clean up the stop light switch that is on the car.

 

 

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sucess

image000000.thumb.jpg.1fb32b4e06f8f1070cc87393d2fcbb8c.jpgimage000001.thumb.jpg.55fe3f11aa04fa648dcb38d99c0a5e40.jpg

 

when I took apart the switch I found one of the internal leads had broken off. I devised a way to re-secure it in place and with that I have a working brake light. 

 

on to the light switch next... not tonight...

 

And the Redskins or the WFT or WTF...whatever... they won too, awesome night...

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I have no experience with this era Buicks but I would say that the tail light should be red and the brake light would be the clear one. I would wonder if there was originally an amber insert to make the brake light illuminate yellow. Fords of the era have an almost identical taillight that has a red taillight and an amber brake light. Not that I think you would ever be stopped, but a white light illuminated on the rear of a vehicle while in forward motion is actually illegal in NC. Technically neither a taillight or brake light can illuminate white light in NC.

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4 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

OK silly question of the day.

 

Should the clear lens be illuminated with the tail light or with the brake light?

 

It would seem I could mount the internal guts for either, so...which is correct?

Neither - isn't the clear lens a reverse lamp ? 

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2 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

Neither - isn't the clear lens a reverse lamp ? 

 

not enough bulbs or wires for that. only 2 bulbs/wires in the system, brake light and tail light. and the tail light most definitely needs to be a white bulb as it illuminates the plate as well via a lens on the bottom of the housing.

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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@Pete Phillips @Bill - 29 Buick

Pete or Bill?

would you know the answer on the question

6 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

OK silly question of the day.

 

Should the clear lens be illuminated with the tail light or with the brake light?

 

It would seem I could mount the internal guts for either, so...which is correct?

 

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7 hours ago, Erndog said:

The 1930 Buicks did, in fact, have a back-up light that comes on when the transmission is shifted to reverse. There is a switch at the top rear of the transmission that is activated by a rod that pokes out when put in reverse.1035765709_Back-upswitch.thumb.jpg.46699ddbfbd46f873c2ebff147ca13db.jpge

 

Photograph (1).jpg

 

and we have an answer to the clear lens question as well in that case. Thanks

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found a diagram in the reference manual and found one focus screw spring. I don't have an understanding of what I am looking for in the focus crew itself or whatever goes from the top of the screw to the bulb socket.

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Today's progress I'm quite pleased with

 

I rebuilt a spare light switch and installed it. Now the tail light comes on for all settings. I also have the side light parking lights

 

First one

image000002.thumb.jpg.8c3c6afa6bd07591326af65a046d748a.jpg

 

Then with a little rebuild and some better grounding (isn't that always it with these cars) both are now on

image000003.thumb.jpg.ccc2bd2fc0b4fdc6413e412f2e6a1fbf.jpg

 

I also filed out the hole for the map light and got that installed and functioning.

image000000.thumb.jpg.be455c94efd0885c891c170e9989926e.jpg

 

I messed with the instrument panel lights some but not there yet. With a small adjustment and getting the wires in the rights spots I do have a reverse light (thanks all who pointed that out).

 

Took her out for another spin. I went down and back up the BIG hill in the neighborhood this time and noted the following

1. I'm getting better at the double clutch footwork

2. The brake pedal was sticking some. I oiled all the pin joints and that seemed to help

3. I am shifting into 3rd too early on the hill, she sounds ready in 2nd and then in 3rd she's bogged down.

4. She's still overheating, mostly at idle. I got her up over 200 idling while oiling the brake cables and then went back around the neighborhood and she seemed to come down a hair and get back under 200, but then once I got back in the drive and was backing her into the garage she spiked right back up and started pissing some

image000001.thumb.jpg.6e174454371965dc06a47ee5515747f2.jpg

 

I adjusted the valves again at this point since she was good and hot. A bunch of them were too tight hot. that seemed to quiet her down considerably but still feel like I've got a little too much valve train noise. That also let me adjust the idle down a bunch and she's running MUCH smoother. I suppose I need to see if that helped with the overheating any but that seems a long shot. Probably will take her down the road to the gas station for some ethanol free tomorrow.

 

 

Also this week I got the running boards back to the wood shop to do some more work that I don't have the tools to do myself. I hope to have that back next week so I can put those together and on the car. Took some items to the machine shop too that are just detail items I ran out of talent and tools on, maybe get those back soon too. I also placed a Bob's order for some side mirrors and a few other minor things (of course noticed a couple more things I need today). Need to get to the GOOD hardware store for some rubber grommets for the cowl at the side mount supports. Finally ordered a spare cheap headlight to try and get some of the inner components sorted out or at least have ones i can take pictures of so I can acquire them (without having to buy a whole assembly again)

 

 

 

 

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, Erndog said:

Have you verified proper operation of the shutter thermostat?

 

Well it seem to just kinda stay in one position...about 3/4 open. Thus open enough that I feel like air movement at idle with the fan is more than enough.

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No matter the size of the project it's all about plugging away one step at a time isn't it.

Baby steps and before you know it, you can see light at the end of the tunnel.

That's been my learning curve this past year.

Enjoying your journey with the car.

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Started messing with the pilot ray light. Polished the chrome and it cleaned up nice. 

 

Here are all the parts laid out. Apperently I have to get some 5/16 rod.

IMG_20201213_151048.thumb.jpg.95d330a84cd7d4c5adf3a4f449020d80.jpg

 

My question, see photo below. The mounting brackets seem like I'm missing something. The front edge (chrome part of mount is a flat edge, and then as you can see there are u shaped pieces that bolt to the chrome. This obviously go over the chassis round tube cross bar. The u brackets are a bit to large for the diameter and then with the flat front it seems like there should be something, possibly a rubber piece, that would get squashed during tightening and thus hold it all upright. Thoughts from those with experience? 

IMG_20201213_150036.thumb.jpg.dfaf264c5d5774a26de9a59f52ab9772.jpg

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10 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

What's this fitting called?

 

I'm curious too.  It's different than a standard compression fitting as is commonly found.  My 57s use these at the oil gauge line and manifold vacuum lines, at least.  I would like to have some new ones next time I need one.

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11 hours ago, lancemb said:

I'm curious too.  It's different than a standard compression fitting as is commonly found.  My 57s use these at the oil gauge line and manifold vacuum lines, at least.  I would like to have some new ones next time I need one.

Should be able to find something here for it. However, looking more closely at one of mine, it looks like the bevel is built into the fitting and an insert may be in the end of the tubing. 

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