AHa Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 So back in the early 90's the gas tank in my 1940 Chevrolet PU sprang a leak and my mechanic sealed it with some gas tank sealer. Fast forward to this year and the leak returned. So I went out and bought some MEK, stripped the old sealer out, and proceeded to recoat with Red Cote. I read where one guy thinned the Red Cote out and put two thin coats on instead of just one. I thought that was a good idea so I thinned the sealer, poured it in the tank, sloshed it about, and poured it back out. I looked in the tank and everything was well coated but an hour later it looked like there was air trapped in the rust and the air had escaped leaving small round areas with no sealer visible. So I thinned the remaining Red Cote and repeated the process. The problem began when the temperature had risen and the sun had chased my shade away. The second coat puddled inside the tank before I could get it back out. Red Cote will not dry once it has puddled and the gas will leach it out and gum up the carb. So now I had to restrip the tank of Red Cote because it had puddled. I am now pouring in the acetone, sloshing it about, and pouring it back out but each time I repeat this process, the acetone comes out red. Damon Industries informs me that all the Red Cote has to be removed because it will not stick to itself once you have tried to remove it. I am so frustrated with the whole process I can't see straight. It is looking like I'm going to have to buy 16 gallons of Acetone at $20 per gal, fill the tank up, then drain it out to get all the Red Cote out of the tank. I don't know if anybody makes replacement tanks for 1940 Chevrolet trucks. My tank overall is in good shape and I coated the outside bottom of the tank with POR 15 and there is no leak in the tank anymore. I just can't seem to get the Red Cote stripped out. I did a lot of research before choosing Red Cote and couldn't find any warnings not to use it in warmer weather. So there you go. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 You can buy a reproduction (new) tank from "Chassis Engineering" for $250.00. OR you could make a set of "saddle tanks" from a pair of pony kegs yourself and mount them to the running boards. If they held beer, they must be clean inside. Mike in Colorado 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akstraw Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 There is a radiator shop in Denver NC that will soak and strip a gas tank. Not sure how their process would work on red Côte, but might be worth asking. They did a tank for me in 2014, and I think it was around $100, including some type of red sealer applied after the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 I've had good success with Red Cote just following the directions on the can. It has been sold by Clark's Corvair parts for years. I've done new and used tanks. No issues. Been in my 8N tank for 15 years, with 10% ethanol sitting in there for those 15 years. Yes, it is the "new" alcohol resistant Red Cote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BucketofBolts Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 Is that a mullet haircut that the guy in the red sweater has? Mullet's and old trucks seem to go together in the early 1990s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesR Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 7 hours ago, FLYER15015 said: You can buy a reproduction (new) tank from "Chassis Engineering" for $250.00. Mike in Colorado I agree. I personally think that coating a tank is a last resort strategy when you can't find a reproduction tank. I've had it done twice and won't ever do it again if I can help it. $250 seems like a very reasonable price for peace of mind. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 If you had used it without thinning, it probably would have worked as expected. The technical specs explain what happened: "Red-Kote dries faster than many other sealers saving you time." "You can reduce time further by thinning with Acetone and using two thin coats instead of one thick coat." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted June 12, 2019 Author Share Posted June 12, 2019 So I finally got all, the Red Cote out of the tank and resealed it. Red Cote may be the best gas tank sealer out there but it is extremely finicky. I noticed that even at 65 degrees it started skimming over quickly so it is a quick dry sealer and there is no time to dawdle. I suspect my experience is atypical but a word of caution is deserved. NEVER try to seal the tank when it is warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 OK, I have failed again. To recap, I had the tank sealed some thirty years ago and the sealer failed this year. I stripped the old sealer out using MEK, but the tank was clean other than the sealer. After stripping the metal was clean except for some surface rust. After treating with the Red Cote the first try I could see the tank was well coated but after a couple of hours there was spots with no sealer. Today, I recoated the tank after stripping the Red Coat out and again after sealing everything was well coated but after work I came home to find dry spots in the sealer. Something is chasing the Red Cote away. My next strategy is to restrip the tank and use some metal prep. I can't find a replacement tank for a 1940 Chevy pick up. The 1940 is really a one off year. The 39 is different and the 41 is different. Plenty of places sell 1940 car tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akstraw Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 I have also seen procedures where a panel is cut out of the tank; sufficient in size to allow the interior surface to be cleaned and scraped by hand. When all is clean, then the panel is welded back in place. I was ready to do this on one of my projects, but then was able to scope the inside walls of the tank, and learned that after sitting for 50-plus years, it was remarkably clean inside, and needed no attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 This is only one of the reasons the only gas tank sealer I will use is POR-15 gas tank sealer. https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer I never used any of their metal prep or degreaser and never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 We have used Red Kote for years with never a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 (edited) The reason I chose Red Kote is because of the many great reviews. Also the fact I could buy it at my local Oreillys. All the other coatings have some detractors and must be ordered. I am not saying my problem is Red Kote's fault; I don't know what problem I'm having yet but I think it is prudent to document the problem for other people trying to coat their tanks. I spoke with Damon Industries again this morning. The Chemist does not know what is happening but agrees that something is not allowing the Red Kote to adhere to the tank and the result is the Red Kote is repelled from those areas. She is recommending a 30 minute bath in Hydrochloric acid, 4 to 1 ratio, with a quick wash of Acetone afterwards. She said to never use phosphoric acid. So, I am getting pretty good at this now. Maybe I should start a business. Edited June 13, 2019 by AHa (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 (edited) I've been very satisfied many times with Gas Tank Renu. They cut open the tank, sandblast it inside and out, re-coat it, and give you a lifetime guarantee. Drop it off, pick it up three days later, ready to install. $400. If the tank is out of sight, it's the only way I'll try to use an old tank. Their exterior coating is textured so it's not appropriate for visible tanks but they'll do just the inside but can't offer the warranty. You're clearly having adhesion problems, there's surface rust in there, nothing you pour in there and slosh around yourself is going to be 100% effective. You're going to spend a bunch more time and aggravation trying to get it right in your driveway. I know $400 can seem like a lot of money, but given that I never have to ever think about it again (this is where someone chimes in and says Gas Tank Renu failed that one time and they wouldn't honor their warranty and they also killed his mother) it's worth it to me every single time. What's your time worth? What's peace of mind worth? Just a satisfied customer (we've had them do more than 20 tanks for us without ever having a problem). Edited June 13, 2019 by Matt Harwood (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 Thanks Matt. You are right on so many levels but I'm invested in this process now. It's me against the tank and I can't give up. Its a man thing. I'm sure you can understand. It is really foolish on my part but isn't that what it means to be a man? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 (edited) 13 minutes ago, AHa said: Thanks Matt. You are right on so many levels but I'm invested in this process now. It's me against the tank and I can't give up. Its a man thing. I'm sure you can understand. It is really foolish on my part but isn't that what it means to be a man? That's the sunk cost fallacy talking. Do you want results and to drive your truck, or do you want to fight a war whose outcome is still uncertain? I understand getting invested in stupid stuff (I might be the king of such undertakings), but sooner or later you have to choose a different path to success if the one you're on isn't getting you there. Don't conflate manliness with foolishness. There are plenty of smart yet manly men, but not a whole lot of manly fools. Edited June 13, 2019 by Matt Harwood (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Jake Moran Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 Just buy a new tank. These trucks are well supported by vendors due to their popularity. The stripping alone would run you more than the cost of a new tank, and add pollutants to the world we live in. Just my 2 cents. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 Ok, I was wrong, I can buy a new tank for my truck. A google search turned up nothing but a call to Jim Carter produced a new tank for $380 with $180 shipping to my location. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 $180 shipping? Truck freight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted July 22, 2019 Author Share Posted July 22, 2019 All right, I want to revisit this subject with my comrades out there. I finally took the tank to a radiator repair shop that said they could soak the tank over a weekend and get all the rust out of it, then solder up the holes and they recommended no sealer. They said just keep the tank full of gas and you will have no problems. Sadly, two weeks later the tank has been soaked over a weekend but the rust did not come off, at least not enough that it could be soldered up and they called me to pick it up. I am tempted to pick up some POR 15 from a local supplier and seal the bottom of the tank first, sealing the pinholes, then seal the inside. I'm at my wits end with this tank. My friends out there in internetville are telling me prewar cars are coming down in value precipituosly and I am hesitant to put $500 in a new tank. To start, I don't have the disposable income to justify it and I am already investing in another project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 Gas Tank Renu. Period. How much time and effort have you already wasted? You could be driving your car by now. Do it right the first time and it's not only faster, but often cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted July 22, 2019 Author Share Posted July 22, 2019 I understand completely but gas tank renu is a minmum of $500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 They did the tank for my 1935 Lincoln for $325 last summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 Ok, its time for an update on the gas tank saga. To date I have stripped the tank out with MEK, coated it with Red Cote but it failed, stripped again this time with Acetone and another coat of Red Cote but the red Cote failed a second time. I stripped the Red Cote out a second time. The Red Cote was interacting with something in the tank and although I had perfect coverage when I fist coated, one hour later there were bare spots in the coverage. Red Cote recommended an acid wash to take out the rust but the acid didn't do anything. I set the tank aside not realizing the acid would continue to work and though I only had a couple of rust spots originally, now the inside of the tank was all rust. A radiator shop I had used before thought they could strip the tank by dipping it so I took it to them but after two weeks they told me they could not fix it. I then took it to a friend who is an extraordinary welder but he said he couldn't fix it. This time I decided to use POR 15. There is a wide range of instructions on how to use the product so I called the factory tech. He told me to buy the cleaner/degreaser and wash out the tank thoroughly, regardless of what had been done before. Wash that out thoroughly with water and thoroughly dry the tank with a heat gun. Then use the metal ready, thoroughly soaking all the inside of the tank. Then wash that out with water and dry the tank out again with a heat gun. Then pour in the gas tank sealer and roll the tank until all sides are coated. I finished that a few moments ago and I have good coverage over all the tank I can see. Just for double measure, I painted the bottom of the tank with gas tank sealer. To date I have about $200 in the repair. I've had this truck for 30 years now. It is not restored and pretty much just like I found it. I use it for work around my property. It has always been garage kept. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Don't be in too big a rush.......leave the tank as open as you can and set it in the sun so it cures properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted August 7, 2019 Author Share Posted August 7, 2019 The recommended time is 96 hours, or 4 days. I left it in the sun yesterday afternoon. The paint on the bottom dried quickly but the sealer inside the tank remained wet for some time but hardened before dark. There are instructions online to force air through the tank to speed up drying but the tech recommended allowing the sealer to dry naturally over time. I'm not in a hurry but I do want to put the truck back together. I got good coverage that remained with the POR 15 where the Red Cote failed, twice. I suspect the reason people experience failures with POR 15 is due to not properly cleaning or drying the tanks. Time will tell what kind of job I have here but I found the POR 15 tech guy very helpful. I talked to him at least six times through the process. The POR 15 is a thicker product and I feel better about it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 (edited) I have successfully used fiberglass to seal gas tanks from the outside. I wash it out with detergent, then fill it with water. (to prevent the sparks from exploding the tank) I sandblast the bottom and then drain the tank and dry the bottom quickly to prevent rust over. Then I use random woven fiber glass to cover the whole bottom. If brushed out nicely, it is not noticeable. I have tanks 10 years old and still OK. I have also "sandblasted" the inside of the tank by filling with water and putting in sand and gravel and then using a pressure washer. (It does not work well if the tank has baffles.) The tank will however, start to rust again quickly requiring a sealer. Rust can also be removed by filling the tank with a mixture of molasses, mixed with 9 parts of water. (clean first with detergent and follow with a pressure wash.Takes 30 days or longer) Molasses is $10/gal, purchased at a feed and grain store. Edited August 7, 2019 by Roger Walling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broker-len Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Would be interested in hearing reports from anyone who has used HIRSCH gas tank sealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broker-len Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 On 8/10/2019 at 7:46 AM, broker-len said: Would be interested in hearing reports from anyone who has used HIRSCH gas tank sealer Been using the Hirsch alcohol resistant white sealer on my customer's gas tanks since it first came out many years ago. Done so many that I order it in the gallon can size, not quarts. Easy to use and not one problem. Getting the tanks in/out, rinsed and prepped is a lot of work, so I only use what I know works. I soak and just rinse the inside of the tanks well with fast drying lacquer thinner. Throw in some crushed rock and do the big cocktail shaker for a few minutes to knock off the loose scale rust. rinse again with lacquer thinner. Blow it dry then seal the openings. I tape a piece of thin vinyl tubing into one of the duct tape -close openings so the vapor pressure that builds up during coating with the Hirsh won't blow off an edge of tape and leak over the outside of the tank. Let dry for a few days and it's good to go, even with gasoline with ethanol It adheres very well to any "tight rust" that remains after the stone shaking, so no need to have the tank boiled out, or risk contamination problems with any rust removing chemicals. And it also seals any pin holes. Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted August 11, 2019 Author Share Posted August 11, 2019 (edited) I now believe the secret to success with any of these products is the prep work and because of the multitude of instructions, contacting the actual company to get instructions. Por 15 instructed me to buy their cleaner and metal prep and follow their instructions explicitly for success. Red Cote offered very little in the way of instructions. They did not recommend any cleaner other than the acetone. Though others have had good success with Red Cote, my own experience was disastrous. All of these sealers must provide good service under ideal conditions or they would no longer be in the business of selling their products. Also POR 15 informed me that old tanks can have wax in them. Don't ask me where the wax would come from but you can see how many sealers would not adhere to wax and solvents will not remove wax. My tank obviously had wax in it and that is what the Red Cote reacted to in my first endeavor. Edited August 11, 2019 by AHa (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broker-len Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 Thank you both for you posts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 I believe it is time for an update to this thread. I finished up the tank repair with POR 15 products, waited a week, and filled the truck up with gas. I have had no problems since. To Red Cote's defense, I was a bit incredulous about the efficacy of their product due to it going on so thin but I got some on my shirt in the process and though it is a very thin coat, it is also extremely tough. If the Red Cote had not reacted with something in the tank, it would have provided a satisfactory sealing of the tank. The key is cleaning the tank well before you start. I think I would recommend using the POR 15 cleaner regardless of which sealer you choose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 On 10/2/2019 at 10:51 AM, AHa said: I believe it is time for an update to this thread. I finished up the tank repair with POR 15 products, waited a week, and filled the truck up with gas. I have had no problems since. To Red Cote's defense, I was a bit incredulous about the efficacy of their product due to it going on so thin but I got some on my shirt in the process and though it is a very thin coat, it is also extremely tough. If the Red Cote had not reacted with something in the tank, it would have provided a satisfactory sealing of the tank. The key is cleaning the tank well before you start. I think I would recommend using the POR 15 cleaner regardless of which sealer you choose. I'd like to thank you for updating the thread and thorough evaluation of what went on, that's very helpful for for later readers trying to decide what they should do. Far too often a thread will stop and you don't know what to make of the solutions tried. I have a gas tank that I took to a radiator shop to get repaired and sealed. They did that but I media blasted some questionable areas on the outside and they turned out being rust through areas they missed. I've repaired that area but need to re-seal and I wasn't clear on how to apply additional coats after it has already dried. Further inspection of the tank also revealed some puddle areas so I'm likely just stripping everything out and using POR 15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 What am I missing here. After thoroughly cleaning the inside of the tank why can't the outside of the tank be cleaned and the bad area prepped and skinned over with lead? Same process they used to use for bodywork back in the day. I've had excellent results soldering tanks on the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 All I can tell you is the Radiator shop said they could not fix my tank and it just had a few pinholes. Looking back, I might would have tried to fix it with lead or solder but if the experts weren't going to try it, neither was I. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne sheldon Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 If it weren't for the garbage-for-gas we have today, fixing old gasoline tanks in marginal condition would be a piece of cake! I did several of them years ago and got many good years of service from them. In those days, minor pin holes and seam weepages could be remedied by any of several very good gasoline tank sealers. However, now, the alcohol in the 'gasoline' weakens and in many cases dissolves the sealants. Other and future alterations also cast additional chemical issues and doubts. Old repairs have gone bad, and new repairs aren't trusted because of the problems that continue. I think a few of the modern sealants may work well enough provided ALL the proper steps and preparations are done. However, a lot of people, including me, doubt the reliability, and often do not have the capability to do adequate preparation and cleaning. The time and added costs involved often make a whole new tank a much more viable option. Good old fashioned solder repairs can still be good. IF (my favorite big IF again!) the damage to the old tank isn't too bad. Unfortunately, our alcohol tainted gasoline has a nasty way of facilitating rust on old steel. So even a decent old tank with good solder repairs is susceptible to rusting through quickly unless it is in exceptional condition, or properly sealed inside! Just because an old tank looks and feels good, doesn't mean it can't have thin areas or internal rust pits where they cannot be seen. For my '15 model T runabout I am working on, I have an original gasoline tank that I have had for a couple decades, that thirty years ago I would have been thrilled to use. Today? I ran the numbers about a year ago. For what it would cost me to properly clean and seal my nice solid old tank, would cost me more than a new reproduction tank should cost me. If they are available when I need to buy one? If they are not available at that time? I may make my own reproduction tank! I can actually do that for less than the cost of a new one (I ran the numbers!). But I don't think the one I would make would look quite as nice. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now