Luv2Wrench

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Everything posted by Luv2Wrench

  1. I highly recommend using their water based wax and grease remover and *nothing* else. Barry (owner of SPI) can't be anymore clear on that. I make sure that any rust treatment, glide coat, etc, etc is throughly removed before I apply the WaG. So... 1) 80 grits scratches with a DA 2) Mix epoxy primer 3) WaG. Apply and wipe off in one direction. The WaG is "floating" contaminates off so no rubbing "around". 4) Wait 30 minutes for both epoxy primer to activate and the WaG be gone. 5) Shoot 2 coats. I actually shoot a quick tack coat and immediately follow the with a wet coat. I wait 20 minutes and do another wet coat. 6) Beer (ok, ok, yeah, that was step 1 as well). I use a 1.3 tip but I think you can use a 1.5 as well. On the last coat you can reduce it 15% and get a flatter sheen. It has UV protection so it can be the first and last step for chassis and such. You can call SPI just about any time and get tech support. Barry's cell phone is available after hours and on the weekend. Crazy.
  2. 90% of the bodywork doesn't have any rust, so there is very, very little pitting. With the little pitting there is I go over that with the media blaster (the indoor one, not the Clogmaster 2000) and then I use a phosphoric acid based metal etch. I blast that again to remove it and follow up with wax and grease remover. Epoxy primer goes on immediately after that. There might be some flash rust before I get the epoxy primer on but I've been assured that the SPI epoxy primer "loves" the flash rust. Experience has proven that out as well. 2K standard build primer goes on after the epoxy primer and then it is time for block sanding. After blocking is done a final coat of epoxy primer to seal it and color goes on! Looking forward to that.
  3. Ah... with the body off I can see the issue(s). That wouldn't really be a "section" job, more like remove the entire middle and make a new one. Given your skill and experience at building bodies it certainly does seem like a new body is in order. Will be more fun to us to see!! I must say that 11hp seems like not very much. Is there some conversion I'm not aware of? My 1913 Metz is 22hp and I thought it was considered underpowered. I guess us Americans are just HP crazy.
  4. Removed the rear fenders, plated the associated nuts/bolts/washers and got the bulk of the bumping done on all the fenders. The driver's side fender has some pinholes caused by rust right about where the end meets the step area. There are also some cracks in a couple of places where other pieces joined (like the back of the hood latches). As such there will be a little welding required before primer. I think I got a days worth of work done in three days... so the efficiency will need to improve.
  5. Can you take a section out of the chassis?
  6. Wow, removing the saloon parts and dropping on the two seater body really makes a change!! I looked back through the thread but can't seem to find where the two seater came from? This is going to be a great project and a great car, excited to see it progress.
  7. With the weekend just around the corner I've been prepping to try and get some work done. I have mounted the front fender to my workbench to get higher up in the air so I can easily access the under side while bumping out the imperfections. Overall the fender is in great shape but it does have some small dings. I could fill these but I think probably easier to get the metal as straight as possible and just use a couple coats of sanding primer to fine tune.
  8. From top to bottom, from start to finish, just an outstanding job and result!!!
  9. Media blast with a fine abrasive followed by treatment with a chemical rust remover. The media blast takes care of all the rust you can see, the chemical rust remover gets down in pores for the rust you can't see. I soak it in a degreaser after that, then a quick dip in muriatic acid, rinse and then start plating.
  10. So roughly 8 months ago I took a little "time off" the MG TD project to get some things squared away around the house. One thing led to another and now here we are 8 months later. That's how life goes I guess. I have managed to creep along and get a couple of things done and I've also managed to get some new (old) equipment in the shop along with a lot of tooling and fixtures. From a capability standpoint I think I've made a lot of progress. The car, however, really hasn't changed much since the beginning of 2019. I have taken the front fenders off and started the minor bodywork required for them. I hope to be back in the shop and working on the MG next week... as I'm out of town again this weekend. One task I'll have while doing the bodywork and prepping for paint is plating all the nuts/bolts/washers used on the bodywork. I've already done that for the chassis and engine but didn't bother with it when I was test fitting the bodywork. I was using the Caswell CopyCad Zinc plating system and while it worked well to start with it eventually became a thick slurry and I had no luck getting customer service to rectify the situation. Since I didn't want to pay for that plating solution again and, most likely, have the same thing happen, I surfed around the web and found a nice alternative plating solution. I did some experiments with it and have found a solution that works well for what I'm doing. The solution is a simple mix of distilled water, vinegar, epson salt and zinc sulfate. For the zinc anode I am using zinc that is sold as a strip to put on a roof to keep moss at bay. It seems to work very well and at a fraction of the cost. After plating the surface finish is a little dull so I briefly and lightly buff them on a brass coated wire wheel on the bench grinder. I've done some corrosion tests and plating depth tests and I feel comfortable it will protect the hardware as well as look good. Here are a couple of washers I just plated. The camera on my phone is adding the blue shading on the two lower ones which, in real life, look like the one in the middle. These washer were pretty much junk before plating.
  11. Fantastic car! It has some similar body lines and engine parts with my 1953 MG TD. Those carbs, fuel pump and coil all look the same. The body lines are different but very similar. Overhead cam on the engine is, of course, very different.
  12. Those look great! It is getting to be the time of the year that the Clogmasters actually work well. We've been having quite a drought here the last month... I'm thinking I might have to break out my Clogmaster to get some humidity and rain in the area... either that or try to paint outside. Either is about guaranteed to bring rain.
  13. Nice solution!! I too am puzzled by the inability to correctly make a reproduction part. My guess is that the process from design to part is lengthy and costly enough that there are limited attempts at getting the part correct. There might only be one attempt judging from some repro parts I've seen. Another possibility is the plant that produces the parts from the design specs is not able to maintain the required tolerances.... in your case, maybe the first 200 had the correct arc and each run after that got a little flatter. It certainly is frustrating though to us end users.
  14. Hope the steroids continue to work their magic on you! Glad you're back in the shop and I'll be joining you soon (well, in my shop).
  15. Master cylinder restoration looks fantastic! The rubber fitting that the pedals come up through is interesting as it looks to be the same as the one that would be on the inside of the MG TD with the master cylinder under the under the car. The two holes would be for the brake pedal and the clutch pedal. Very interesting how the same part was used in a slightly different way in the MGA.
  16. Phil the engine looks great, I'm sure you'll have the car ready for it soon. Maybe a video when you fire it for the first time??
  17. I never could get the lantern tool post and rocker to work for me, I had to go to the QCTP. I think machine work is an interesting reflection of one's patience. The ability of Joe to get what he gets done using what he uses is, I think, a reflection of his patience... as my inability is a reflection of my lack of patience. In addition, I believe the improvements I've made over the years are a direct reflection of my ability to become more patient. Reading Joe's post and, in a sense, watching him work through problems has been very helpful for my machining growth. I sure couldn't have gotten this far without it and I think I can go a lot further as well. Can't wait to get back on the Metz!!
  18. I guess there would be a pretty good chance that one of those would be just what you're looking for. Do take some pictures!
  19. There is some irony there because I wasn't even going to get it until you said I should. I figured you knew something... sure glad I listened.
  20. Got some good time in the shop however it was spent on getting the drill press running. While not the subject of this thread, I thought I would make another post about the drill press as it seems interesting. While I had heard that you "needed" a sliding head drill press, I wasn't 100% sure it was really something that I would really use that much. I guess I couldn't have been more wrong. To illustrate why... let's look at the first project I did once I got the motor hooked up. I need to drill 17/32" holes in 1.5" plate. I needed to get them within a couple thousandths as well. As such I planned on using center drill to get the hole placed correctly, 1/4" drill for the first pass and finally 17/32" on the last pass. With a typical drill press this present a real challenge. It is hard to get the table in a position where these 3 different drills would all reach the workpiece as well as penetrate 1.5". This requires moving the table up and down which is problematic for the accuracy of the hole. With the sliding head this is trivial. Chuck up the center drill and drop the head right down on the work piece. Raise it back up, switch to the 1/4" drill, lower, drill, raise, switch, etc. The yellow handle just left of the head turns about 1/4 turn and you can move the head, 1/4 turn back and it is locked. Fast and effortless. Once you've used it a few times you pretty much can't imagine not having it. One other wonderful feature is the big wide belts. They are very easy to switch between the steps on the cone pulley making changing speed a breeze. With my other DP the v-belt pulleys were up on the top and cumbersome to get to and change... as a result, I set it on a low speed and left it there. With the big belts it is trivial to step around the corner and change them. I've got it setup so I can go between 360 and about 3000 using the 4 steps on the cone pulley and 3 steps on the motor.. so effectively 12 speeds.
  21. I think you're doing the right thing, you don't have many choice and pretty much none of them very good. My situation might have been similar except I caught a lucky break. I went to multiple machine shops and got turned away at all of them. I had done some other machining work (not engine related) with an older gentleman up the road from me a bit. Old school guy. I went and asked him and he said I needed "Cobb's boy". Seriously. "Cobb's boy" turned out to be Jim Cobb the son of a very respected engine builder and machinist. Of course Jim is older than me so I can only guess how old his dad is. Jim doesn't even work on engines like mine, but he's old school as well, has all the machines and can read. Give him the dimensions and the parts and he'll machine it to fit. Assembling the engine was fairly easy after that. If I didn't have Jim I'd be in the same boat as you... I'd probably have my engine at some machine shop somewhere and it still wouldn't be done.
  22. Looking good!! Farming out the blasting is a good idea. Hopefully they will be faster than your machine shop(s).