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Luv2Wrench

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Everything posted by Luv2Wrench

  1. Got clear done on the misc parts. Wet sanded and did cut buff pass on one of the front fenders. I was concerned about the front fenders and felt like I might need to re-clear them. After the wet sand and cut pass with the buffer I don't think I'll need to re-clear. I need to do a bit more cut in the sunlight tomorrow and then see how it looks after a final buff. I have a feeling it is going to be just fine.
  2. T-storms interrupted base yesterday but I was able to get that done today. I barely had enough base to get everything done so I hope nothing else goes wrong and I hope I didn't miss a big piece. I probably will not have enough clear to get it done but I'm going to wait to order that until I absolutely run out and then I'll try to order by the quart instead of gallon. Took the car for a drive in the neighborhood and noticed that the speedometer wasn't working. I can't remember for sure if it did work on the last test trip but it certainly doesn't work now. Very frustrating. I'll tak
  3. Last batch of items in the booth waiting for base (probably today) and then clear (hopefully tomorrow). I'll need to re-clear the front fenders and will probably chose to do the same for the tub. The top and side curtains will need to be painted after that. I'm making decent progress but it does fee like I'm standing still... the more work I do the more work I find that I need to do. The joys of car restoration
  4. I think car restoration is as much mental as it is physical. It can be so mentally overwhelming at times and just down right depressing. I've tried to shift work to things that are easier to do and give a mental boost when done. That does become an issue, however, when you get close to the end and there are no such project left that are quick and easy!! It is a grind and taking a bit of time off can help. An hour a day can help. Pictures of other finished cars can help. Looking back at all the work you've done can help (this helps me the most). You're doing great and it'll get done w
  5. I got another 2 coats on clear on before life jumped back out in front of me. Unfortunately each time there is a pause of more than a day it means that I have to sand the clear down to better accept the next coats. A scuff is all that is needed but since I'm going to the trouble of doing so I figured I might as well knock it down perfectly flat. In theory this should make the final cut and buff a little easier but it certainly takes a great deal of time. Here they are soaking up the sunshine before dry sanding with 600. Back inside and dry sanded with 600.
  6. That prop shaft is a good starting point for rebuilding your uncle's Chriscraft. It isn't like you had that much more with the Mitchell.
  7. What is the diameter on that cutter and what rpm are your running it? The Hendey came with some cutters like that and while it will be probably a year before I do try them out... I'm really looking forward to it.
  8. Life got in the way again... but I did mange to shoot two coats of clear and I'm very happy with the results. I should be able to get another 3 or 4 done tomorrow and then it is on to the hood panels.
  9. You're doing it correct. Epoxy primer goes on first to seal the bare metal. Then 2K, high-build, filler, etc. One final pass of 2K primer sanded to 400. Last step before your base is the epoxy primer reduced 15% to lock in all the high-build, 2K and filler. Since the epoxy is reduced it goes on nice and flat and provides a great surface for the base. It will also help fill any (very) minor incidents you might have while moving panels around. The only concern with the SPI epoxy is that it is very sensitive to contamination so surface prep is everything. I ended up using SPI waterborne b
  10. Looking great!! I sand 400 on the 2K primer before I spray SPI's two part epoxy reduced 15% as a sealer coat. From what I've heard this is an important step, some say critical. The sealer coat will fill/cover 400 scratches so you're ready for base at that point. If you don't do a sealer coat then the final grit you sand with depends on the base you're going to apply. Check the spec sheet (or call them) to find out what grit it will cover. My guess is that 400 will be fine but it does depends on what your base will cover and how many coats you're applying. You do need to be c
  11. Shot the base today, very happy with the results. Will start clear tomorrow.
  12. If you followed my prep strategy you'd need 5 gallons of wax and grease remover and a forest of paper towels. Another fun fact... my booth is only 10' x 16' so I'm not sure you would have enough room to spray it in my booth!!
  13. 3 steps forward, 2 steps back... but at least I gained a step this weekend! I shot the outside of the hood and step fenders with sealer Friday afternoon. Unfortunately I had fisheyes in a couple of areas. Fisheyes in the SPI Epoxy has always been a problem for me and with horizontal surfaces it is even worse. The epoxy is very sensitive to contamination even to the extent that the waterborne w&g remover causes problems if it is not 100% removed and given ample time to dry. The key is getting the surfaces perfectly clean and I just didn't quite get that done in a couple of areas. I t
  14. I wonder if that PLA has the heat rating to do panic stops On a more serious note... I love that 3D printers are making it much easier to get parts that were once all but unobtainable. With that in mind, it might make sense to consider getting scans of rare parts during a restoration process such that they be available for future restorers.
  15. Had a reasonable weekend car wise... as usual stuff came up and I didn't get much time in the shop, but I did get the fenders shot with base and clear on the inside. Today I managed to get the hood and other misc panels shot with base and clear on the inside. Now I will let them dry a bit and flip them over, prep and seal with epoxy primer, then base and then clear. Looks like it will be 3 sessions. I'll do the hood and misc panels that are in the booth now first, then I'll do the gas tank, spare tire holder and misc. Last session will be the fenders. Before I take the booth down I also
  16. I moved all the panels out, cleaned up the shop and put the paint booth up. I hope to get the inside of all the panels shot this weekend. I still need to clean the panels, put plastic down on the floor and, of course, bring the panels back in. Setting the booth up now goes pretty quick, I don't think it took more than a couple of hours to get everything in and put together. The previous sessions I had too much air velocity so I slowed the fan down by putting bigger and smaller pulleys on. I think it feels just about right now.
  17. Welcome!! That's a wonderful car and will make a great project! I think your idea of getting it mechanically sound and cleaning/shining the rest is a fantastic idea. If the paint was falling off or a later repaint that was failing, then a respray would be appropriate.
  18. Welcome! Start a thread in "Our Cars & Restoration Projects" and let us follow along. I not familiar with the Windsor but it looks like a cool car and I love a restoration of a car that's been in the family. Silly me... I see you've already done that!!
  19. 10 years and a month or so... and this picture still gives me goosebumps. Our hobby is a true labor of love.
  20. Man that thing looks great, such good lines. Just beautiful.
  21. Always a pleasure to see what you've been up to, thanks for taking the time to document it and share.
  22. Managed to get the most of the afternoon to get some work done. I shot the tank in 2K last night so I was able to start with a little glazing filler and some block sanding. It really only needed attention to the areas where the inner baffles were spot welded. It seems that process left a little depression. There were a couple of small dents on the top but nothing much. Went super quick and I was able to get another 2 coats of 2K on it. I'll block it tomorrow and see what I've got. Might be ready for paint. While all the other panels were probably ready
  23. Life (and weather) got in the way again for a couple of weeks but I did get some good news... the gas tank is fixed! The shop did a reasonable job of getting it fixed the first time but when I media blasted it to get ready for paint some holes were uncovered. I fixed them with sliver solder but unfortunately that damaged the Red-Kote they used to line the inside. They soaked it in acetone repeatedly (10 gallons overall) and were able to get the Red-Kote out. From there they tested the tank for leaks (found none) and re-applied the Red-Kote. The only charge was their price on the acetone,
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