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Everything posted by Luv2Wrench

  1. I wouldn't be surprised if the Clogmaster started performing a LOT better after witnessing how it was done... not to mention it has to feel a little threatened. If it lets you down again it knows there's a much better replacement available and it'll be on its way back across the ocean to be melted down and turned into another piece of junk. Constantly threatening your tools is not a good idea but a little poke now and then isn't a bad way to keep productivity up.
  2. I'll put it here for posterity. Note the Amazon links will die one day but I'm putting the part info first. Also note that there are cheaper components available. I don't like to waste money but I have more money than time so I went with "bigger is better" approach and spent a little more to get bigger and higher quality parts. Hayden 1290 transmission cooler. The 1260 will work as well. Less expensive alternative is Derale 15300 Tube fin cooler: Milton 1020-8 1/2" NPT Metal Filter Bowl: 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD soft copper tubing. The Hayden 1290 has 3/4" FPT and the filter is 1/2" so my connectors were: Union 5/8" flare to 1/2" MIP - for filter Union 5/8" flare to 3/4" MIP - for transmission cooler. Short forged nuts. 5/8" flare
  3. Really looks stunning. You can see the number of hours that went into it.
  4. As I edge closer and closer to spraying color, I've made a few tweaks to my setup. I spent a lot of time designing my air system to be able to handle water. It has done a wonderful job but I have noticed that on the more humid days the desiccant filter at the gun is about half used up after about 15 minutes of spraying. This isn't ideal. I was mentioning this to a buddy of mine and he asked if I had an after cooler. I did not and I hadn't even heard of that before. Basically an after cooler is a big transmission cooler or a/c condenser that sits between the outlet of the pump and the inlet of the tank along with a water separator. The idea is the hot air comes out of the pump, goes through the transmission cooler (heat exchanger) and the temperature of the air drops considerably. As the temp drops the ability for the air to hold water falls as well so out comes the water. The water separator (at the lowest point in the system) takes out the water and lets the cooler and dryer air go on into the tank. The water separator has an auto drain that opens when the psi drops below 5 psi, ie; when the pump shuts off. Apparently everyone has been doing this and I'm last to the party... but I'm here now. So... I bought a big transmission cooler (Hayden 1290 24"x22"), a nice big auto drain water separator and some soft copper tubing and went to work. It went together pretty quick and I'm glad I did it. This should keep the water out of the tank and reduce the water the rest of my system has to deal with. I need to add a support for the filter and get a bucket to put under it. The proof will be when I spray next and I'll see how the desiccant holds up.
  5. The brushed nickel plating really looks good. Can you show us a few more pictures and describe the process a bit more? I looked at the Caswell system a while back and decided against it because it seemed too good to be true... but you've gotten some great results. I'm interested to hear more.
  6. Wow... that top is bigger than my whole MG. Great job!!
  7. This is a reality though... I paid $4,500 for the car and I was being very generous. I've put $18,000 into the car so far. The only two labor tasks in that were about $1,000 for the engine work and the $5,000 for the chrome. I bought parts off eBay and restored them when I could. While I haven't cut any corners I certainly have made every effort to reduce costs. Even given all of that... and not including ANY of my labor, this car will have $25,000 in it before it is done. Again... that's not including anything for my labor. I've enjoyed the process and I'll get some money back when I sell it, but it does make one pause when thinking about the next project. Oh, speaking of that, the 1913 Metz has no chrome... so we're OK there.
  8. Block sanding has gone very well though I sanded through to bare metal multiple times in multiple places. SPI recommended that I 80 grit the whole tub and spray another two coats of the epoxy primer, wait 18 hours and then go with 2-3 coats of the build primer. Seemed like a good idea to me and it gave me a good chance to see some reflections in the tub and check on how things looked. It isn't perfect yet but it is certainly on the way.
  9. I dropped the chrome off today to get plated. It will take 9 weeks to get back and cost $5,000. I wasn't prepared for that. I know chrome is expensive but I found that borderline insane. I am paying more for "show quality chrome" so we'll see what that looks like. My only real alternative was to buy reproductions and the quality on those is just not that good. Probably would've been fine for a daily driver but I've put too much work into this car to cheap out on the chrome.
  10. Crazy mad skills. Glad you woke me up by posting in the general thread. Tis a shame I've been missing out on your work before.
  11. That's insane!!!! Thanks for heads up, will definitely be following along.
  12. Block sand, block sand, etc, etc. I'm glad this is a small car. I'm probably doing a little more than I need to be but I will be painting it a dark green and I would like it to be as close to perfect as possible. I've spent this long on the project already so I might as well spend a few weeks getting it dead flat. I have the driver's rear quarter panel where I want it to be. The passenger's rear quarter is pretty close. The two front quarters don't need much so I haven't really done much with them yet. The scuttle is going to be the hardest part of the tub by far. I've gotten a fairly good start on it. The two ends where I had to weld patches in are done and where not a problem. The broad arc across the top along with the transition to the two raised curves in front of the driver/passenger is where the more difficult area. There were some subtle low and high spots that really didn't come out until I started using guide coat and a 30" block. Nothing tricky, just time consuming.
  13. Looks good! I probably have the wood for the front, I'll check. If I do it is your's for the shipping.
  14. I definitely hear what you're saying. I'm following their directions to the T. Their epoxy primer is a different than others. This epoxy does not need to be sanded if it’s primed over within 7 days. Always prime over the epoxy within 7 days. After 7 days, the epoxy should be sanded with 180 grit and recoated with epoxy for best adhesion. When spraying a polyester type primer, always let the epoxy sit for at least 48 hours.
  15. SPI (Southern Polyurethanes Inc) makes a 2K primer that is compatible with their epoxy primer in that you have a 6 day window to shoot the 2K primer or, as you say, you must scuff the epoxy primer.
  16. Yes, I will be doing that. In addition, the primer that is on now (black) is not the one I will be sanding. While you can sand the epoxy primer it doesn't sand well. I'll be shooting several coats of 2K primer that will fill imperfections a bit better and is easier to sand. It isn't a high build primer but it isn't as thin as the epoxy primer.
  17. So... finally, three coats of epoxy primer on the tub. Can shoot sanding primer tomorrow. Then block sanding. I'm excited!!!
  18. I Googled that color and came up with: I wouldn't mind that color and wouldn't mind that car.
  19. I think stencils would look great. For the raised letters, one method I've read about is to paint the lettered area with the color of the letters first, let that dry for a week, then paint the main color and while still wet, wipe it off the tops of the raised letters. I can't tell from you pictures if the letters are sharp enough to do that, but I know that was one way it was done back then.
  20. I started with that one, it is called Jaguar Racing Green. The narrative on it is that in the shade it gets very dark and the blue tints are very strong. I'll also be looking at the two sample sprayed out and there's no guarantee that even if the mixer follows the formula correctly that it ends up being identical to what we see online... my computer monitor isn't calibrated either... in fact, I have it set a good bit warmer than standard.
  21. Just in case you haven't had enough of me droning on about how my goal is to get the tub off the chassis and ready for paint, here's the latest video where I mention it every 3 minutes. For the record... I did finally get the tub off the chassis and on the rolling table. Tomorrow it will get epoxy primer and sanding primer on Monday. I have narrowed my choices for paint down to two paint codes: I'm leaning towards the first one, 47037 but will probably get both of them mixed and into spray cans so I can spray them out and see how they look.
  22. Try getting disposable latex gloves around here!!! I'll be painting soon and unless I get really lucky I might be wearing my welding gloves. Beautiful work as usual Harm, really love how this project is coming together.
  23. A foundry next door tends to change the way one works. Cattail Foundry is the one I use and it is essentially an 8 week turnaround, not that I'm complaining. Having one next door with less turnaround time is quite a treat. I love seeing your solutions to problems and can't wait to see that piece come back and get installed.
  24. That is what I've read. They are bronze for sure and judging from looking at the internals after the one half busted in two, it appears cast. I bent them quite a bit before I knew they were cast. Once I read that they were cast I made note to be more careful at which point one promptly split into two. Upon further review I've found that the hinges are made of brass.