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1952 Cadillac Series 75


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9 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said:

I was running jumper cables directly from the battery to the starter.

Just about anything will work better than that.  I’ve had motorcycles that I couldn’t get to spin over with jumper cables and car batteries, your big Cadillac won’t be happy until it has proper cables.  If you were able to jump it with a 12 volt battery says to me that you’re closer than you think.  

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Alright, we are back on track. I put the rocker arms back on and installed the head bolts, checking that the crankshaft would still spin after each installation. I put power to the starter and it spun it, slowly. It wouldn’t spin if the spark plugs were in. I ordered new battery cables so when they come on I will test it again. At least now I can get back to checking wiring connections and make sure I don’t have anything shorting. 

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Posted (edited)

The engine came with a 6 volt coil and pertronix replacing the points and condenser setup. I have no experience with this so I looked up the model and it labels it as a 12 volt system. The label on the starter is impossible to read. Help me make sense of things..

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Edited by Fleetwood Meadow
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Posted (edited)

From another post on this Forum.

 

As for the engine turning over slowly. Although mine would turn over it never seemed fast to me until I learned about having 2 engine grounds. Hoping you've already got heavy gauge wiring, I added another 12" ground cable from the starter to the chassis. I would have never believed the difference it made but wow! It turns over much stronger now too.

Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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Alright so things have turned around. The engine not spinning really threw me for a loop but it is now spinning by hand as well as turning over by the ignition. I am waiting for the intake manifold gasket to come in so I can put it back together fully and try to start it. I have been trying to make sense of the wiring diagram but it is frustrating because it doesn’t show the cabin wiring. I am trying to now figure out what wires go where. I have the front door light switches connected, the map lights and glove box lights as well. The dashboard clock is connected and working. The cluster lights as well as the wires going to the front fenders are working. When the key turns on the gas and temp needles move up to the low marks on the gauges. So the dash board wiring is completed with the exception of the fog lights and directionals. The rest of the car is just waiting to be connected to the “body feed” as the diagram calls it. It shows no further in the car but that point. The rest of the cabin is not shown in the diagram. The body feed to the cabin is just to the right of the map lights. Luckily I was able to trace the wires in the car for those missing parts. 

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Posted (edited)

It officially fired up tonight! I don’t have the fuel line hooked to it but I got it to fire and run for about 5 seconds before it ran out of the gas I put in it. I’m hoping the seals just need to swell again because there is some oil on the floor and at the bell housing. I installed the 2/0 cables and it is amazing the difference that made. I turned the key and it fired within 2-3 seconds. 

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Edited by Fleetwood Meadow (see edit history)
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Congrats! Happy to hear this. Many times it's the little details that we overlook. We've all been there! 

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Been working on little odds and ends. Got the dash wiring connected to the rest of the car. The oil pan is leaking so I tightened the bolts. Hopefully that stops it. I painted the inside of the door hinge and installed this dust shield as well. 

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Posted (edited)

With the car now starting I need a radiator installed. I have taken apart the from grill and radiator support. It’s not dry and is hanging from the ceiling so it can’t be shown right now but it’s black. Tomorrow it should be dry enough to be installed onto the frame. Once that is where it needs to be I can install the radiator hoses and let the car idle. So far it’s only run for about 10 seconds before I shut it off, but it sounds so smooth and I heard the fast idle kick in so I’m excited. 

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Edited by Fleetwood Meadow (see edit history)
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Will you be putting a filter in between the engine and rad so your new radiator doesn't get the junk in it? I have used a Gano and a women's nylon stocking. Both trapped a lot of gunk.

 

I took them out once they quit being filled and the evaporust was changed out.

 

Dave

Edited by Dave39MD (see edit history)
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It’s hard to show the progress when it’s stuff that’s hidden. I completed the wiring of the dashboard today. I have to adjust the temperature gauge before I install that back in. While the cluster was out I cleaned up the dash around it and painted it so when I paint the whole dashboard I won’t have to take the cluster, radio, clock, speaker grill, and various lights and knobs out. The dash board color scheme will be like the door panel I painted last year. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I took the car out of the garage under its own power today. The gas gauge is off so I need to go back in and adjust it a little. I drove it up and down the driveway and when I stopped I flushed the cooling system. Lots of rust water came out. During that time the engine got to 220 degrees so I got in it to drive it a little and let the air cool it. I took it to the neighbors house and back. Then I got daring and took it up the road. Well, it vapor locked on me, or somehow there isn’t enough gas in the tank after 6 gallons was added, because i hit the gas hard to go up the incline and it sputtered. I released the pedal and it stalled. Luckily I could coast back down the road backwards into the driveway. The fuel bowl had bubbles rising in it and it was below the intake hole. So I left it there and went to the store to get gas. I came back and put 2 more gallons in to get me back into the garage. Cranked and cranked and no fuel filled the bowl so I put some down the carburetor and it fired up and filled the bowl. When I shut it off again the fuel bowl lowered to the intake hole again. Is there a leak in my system that is causing it to lose vacuum? Maybe the cork gasket in the bowl? Or is this normal? This is the first pump with the bowl on the top. 

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I believe I can see why I have isolated spots in the engine that are too hot..  I drained the block before I added evaporust into it. I had to keep flushing it to get rid of the rust. Now the evaporust is in it and cycling through. No stores around me have Thermocure anymore so I need to buy it online. I love how well that stuff works. We will see how well the first round with evaporust works. 

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Posted (edited)

Took my father and friend up and down the driveway when they came by for my birthday. It ran pretty good but reminded me that I have not hooked up the vacuum advance. I need to grease the driveshaft pinion because I found it has a grease fitting. I have new u-joints coming, 3 of them, so the driveshaft won’t wear out from old, un-greased parts.


Sorry for the upright picture..

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Edited by Fleetwood Meadow (see edit history)
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The driver’s fender is on. It will need to be adjusted when the hood is installed but that needs to be cleaned and repainted first. I’m waiting on the rubber parts for the rebuilt hydraulic window pump to come in before I install the passenger fender. 

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I have to admit, I’m jealous of posters like Matt Harwood. When he posts pictures and updates he gets verbal responses back. My posts, I get diary responses. I guess this car isn’t as exciting as some of the others. But that’s ok I will keep showing my progress. I walked into the garage and found my brake light on from yesterday. I will have to grease the pedal so it doesn’t stick. 

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I'm enjoying watching the old girl come back to life. Alot of the times I skim through with little time to respond. I love these big old luxury cars and would love to have one someday.

As far as Mr. Harwood and other posters- I'm sure they've been here forever and many likely know each other outside the forum contributing to the comments they receive. I'm just glad they let me in to comment sometimes, and I hope to meet some of the forum members sometime in the future. Unfortunately, for me it seems many if not most of the events are multiple miles east of me and with two jobs, time is not my friend right now..

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2 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said:

I have to admit, I’m jealous of posters like Matt Harwood. When he posts pictures and updates he gets verbal responses back. My posts, I get diary responses. I guess this car isn’t as exciting as some of the others. But that’s ok I will keep showing my progress. I walked into the garage and found my brake light on from yesterday. I will have to grease the pedal so it doesn’t stick. 

Don't feel bad, my Crosley Farm O Road post didn't get much verbal response either.  

Keep posting!

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I appreciate your efforts and what you have overcome so far. Ongoing stories such as yours give other people in the hobby hope that they can continue on with their restorations. Your car may not be a Mustang or Corvette, but it is worth restoring. It will be fun to take it to shows and talk about what it took to finish the job.

Keep up the good work!

Lew Bachman

1957 Thunderbird 

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Loving this thread  - a great era for Cadillac imo, nice to see a hobbyist restoration and being in CT local interest as well.  Hope to see this car at Belltown or another "good show" in the next year or so.  Not to rush you but you seem to be moving right along.. 😊👍

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I may have not posted any written responses but that does not mean I am not enjoying this thread. I love all of the restoration stuff, my favorite part of the forum. I have been enjoying watching your work on this car. I had a good friend in HS that bought a 53 caddy from another school chums grandmother. She bought the car new. This was about 1980. When my buddy bought the car it was immaculate and low miles. It was just a used up old car at that point that had very little appeal to most 16 yo's. He ended up running through a fence row before a large tree stopped it. He was fine, the car not so much. Such a shame.

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Posted (edited)

I installed the fuel line in the fender. I had to take the wheel off to get to it so while it was off I adjusted the front brakes. Before I put the tire back on I cleaned up the drum and inside of the wheel. My rubber parts came in for the window motor. Once that is installed I can install the passenger side fender.

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Edited by Fleetwood Meadow (see edit history)
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I was trying to lower my windows to remove the fluid from the lines so I can replace the old steel lines with nickel copper lines and realized the master switch wouldn’t work. I took it apart and found the metal contacts were dirty. After cleaning them and bending some of the metal to spring better I put the switch back together. The buttons move like new and functions properly. 

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I started the engine after tightening the exhaust bolts. It fired right up and ran beautifully. I let it run for about 10 minutes and was looking at the fuel bowl for the tiny bubbles to say it was vapor locking, none. The inlet hole however kept randomly letting out big bubbles into the bowl. I heard what sounded like a metal tink tink tink but it immediately went away. So I revved the engine a couple of times and it responded excellently. Then I heard the sound of something spraying.. Transmission fluid everywhere.. it was pouring out of the bottom cover. It is all over the garage floor and bottom of the engine and transmission..

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Don’t you love these old cars. They all like marking their territory, mine usually use engine oil! A 1940 Pontiac I once had loved doing that, so much so I wouldn’t park in people’s driveways. And the ‘38 Buick loved leaving manual transmission oil on my shed floor! ☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️

 

But on another note, looking at your past threads noticed this in the photo!  Is this a brass fitting stuck in the tyre tread. If so will cause a problem sooner rather than later!

 

BTW, always enjoy reading your thread with your progress. I often don’t comment as others do but get a kick out of seeing you do it yourself. Often my only comment is 😀 in the responses!

 

Please keep up the posts

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

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Edited by rodneybeauchamp
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No, it’s an engine block drain plug. I had it out and was flushing the block. Not the smartest place for me to put it because it could have falles and gotten lost very easily but it was bright against the black tire so I could see it.

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I have been following this project since the beginning. Always nice to see a restoration being done in a home shop.  Please keep posting your progress.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been following this thread from the beginning also and admire your perseverance but having very little experience with post-war cars (other than driving my everyday car) I've had nothing worthwhile to add so far.

Edited by JV Puleo (see edit history)
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Well that didn’t work well.. I unbolted the transmission and lowered it out of the car. The rear end of it got stuck under the cross member and I couldn’t clear the engine. So I kept lowering it and it finally came out. However, it was front heavy and tipped the transmission jack over dropping the transmission onto the floor. So it’s out now, but I have to figure out how to pick it up again and moved it from under the car. Then I will replace the front and rear seals and it will go back into the car. I’m hoping it was just a dry seal that let go and not the pressure relieve spring being stuck, or else it will blow again. I don’t know where the relief spring is but maybe I should look at that while it’s out. I don’t know if it’s coincidence or the cause. But it sprayed transmission fluid out just after I had revved the engine high a couple of times. 

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On 1/8/2022 at 12:00 AM, Fleetwood Meadow said:

The newly rebuilt Hydra-Matic 4-speed transmission ready to be installed when the engine is finished and the front end is torn down. 

If the presently leaking Hydramatic is the one which was rebuilt, I'm sure that the front and rear seals were replaced...  Unless the front seal is defective, it certainly hasn't seen much service and shouldn't be dried out...  ???

 

Perhaps what is leaking is the fluid coupling.

 

Paul

Edited by pfloro (see edit history)
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