1938 Studebaker front end repair.

[TAKerry]

Eastwood at one time had a filler that was supposed to be a substitute for lead. I havent used it so cant say anymore than that.

 

When you do get to filler, and I suspect you will need some, use Rage Gold. Its a pretty decent product. Much better than hardware store bondo brand.

 

We had a Korvettes many moons ago. I dont remember it being a discount store as much as just a regular ole department store. I have many LP's that came from there. I was never into 45 rpms.

[60FlatTop]

I can't lay my hands on my copy of Bright Wheels Rolling but there is a really good part about old Frank and George in their bib overalls and how they get the proper curvature back in those old fenders.

[TAKerry]

If you should get to a point that an English wheel would make a big difference, check in your area for custom motorcycle shops. One of them may have a wheel.

[SC38dls]

Tuesday 10/5/21. I may have found an unorthodox way of doing a bead. I took a flat metal bar about three inches long x one inch wide by 3/8 inch thick and rounded the long edge. I put this on the Inside of the fender flange resting on the flange then I  put a board on the out side of the fender along the edge of where the bead is so the bead shows. I then took my vice off the work bench and put it on so the board and the metal bar were in the jaws. I tightened the vice, pounded on the board and bead with my dolly behind the fender. Tighten the vice and pounded etc etc etc. I got a fairly decent bead. But I forgot to take a pic. I wanted to test fit the grille (thank you George for having a complete one handy) just to be sure the fenders were bent out enough. Fit like a charm.  I’ll take it out and go back to hammer/dolly work for the next few days. Pic below is after crash and now then before the crash. 
dave s 

 

Edited October 5, 2021 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[Fossil]

As the old advertisement said, "You've come a long ways baby" 

 

I'm sure glad that guy wasn't backing up any faster!

 

 

[EmTee]

Nice progress!  The original owner of my GP had rubbed the trailing edge of the LF wheel opening against something (garage door jamb?) and flattened a section of the flared opening and the wheel opening molding.  I removed the fender and worked the metal back just as you're doing.  With both the fender and the molding I recall scanning the shelves and drawers in my garage for anything having the profile I was looking for.  Don't be afraid to improvise! 

[f.f.jones]

Great progress. I admire your body working talent and enthusiasm especially after such a disheartening accident and your early experience with the insurance company. 

I have a suggestion that in no way is to be taken as critical as to the appearance of your car, but in my humble opinion, if the car were mine, and I were facing having to repaint the damaged fenders anyway, I would not replace the existing turn signal lights, but would install smaller, less obtrusive ones placed either above or below the bumper, similar to what is shown in the photo below. With modern LED bulbs they could also add to your safety factor. 

Alternately, you might be able to engineer placing light sockets inside the headlight pods behind the lenses and have effective but totally hidden turn signals that, again, in my opinion, add to the classic appearance of your car.

Again, I applaud your progress and attitude and look forward to vicariously learning more about automotive bodywork and seeing the results of your labor of love.

[SC38dls]

F F- no worries on your suggestion. I have looked into getting original option lights in the Art Deco style of the headlights. They actually sit on top of the fenders. Hard to find but not impossible, as I have a lead on two sources. I never liked the ones on the car when I bought it. The holes are fairly easy to fill in with a little mig welding. I have a couple tears in the lower parts to weld also. I appreciate any suggestions and help I can get so please don’t hesitate to make suggestions. 
dave s 

Edited October 7, 2021 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[SC38dls]

This is the parking light style I would like to use for the turn signal. I think I’ve just made a deal to get them. Sorry I don’t have a better pic. 

Edited October 8, 2021 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[SC38dls]

It’s Friday Benny!  Spent the day taking paint off the right fender. Used stripper first that did ok but then went to scrub pads next ( not sure of what the official name is ) that did more and finally went to sanding. My arms are tired and my shoulders hurt but I made decent progress so all is well. Back to hammer and dolly tomorrow but don’t know how long I will last. You can see I’ve got a lot more to do. Today’s pic below. 

Edited October 8, 2021 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[wayne sheldon]

Looking like some really wonderful progress! I am impressed. Bodywork has never been a strong suit for me, but I have done quite a bit of it. Usually, I seem to be restoring parts that are so bad that nobody in their right mind would even consider trying to fix it! (Maybe says something about my mind?) Basically, I can fix almost anything. I just never have enough time to finish it as nice as I would like to.

[60FlatTop]

19 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:

I just never have enough time to finish it as nice as I would like to.

I stick with the mechanical work. I think that is typical just from the number of stalled restoration projects I have seen with a completed chassis and untouched (other than paint stripped) bodies.

 

At some point in my early 40's I recognized that every time I picked up a ratchet it was in the tighten position. I thought "I must have put the last job back together!" For me that was a most rewarding feeling. I am still conscious of it today. It always gives me at least an inward smile and a bit of a tingle. The kids say I am pretty easy to entertain.

 

I guess 30 years of not feeling like I left stuff torn apart ain't bad, could be worse.

[Grimy]

7 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

At some point in my early 40's I recognized that every time I picked up a ratchet it was in the tighten position. I thought "I must have put the last job back together!" For me that was a most rewarding feeling. I am still conscious of it today. It always gives me at least an inward smile and a bit of a tingle.

You're not alone, Bernie!!!  I even get an OUTward smile, even today.

[SC38dls]

I hope to have that satisfied smile soon, but realistically it may take some time. 
 

[SC38dls]

Monday 10/11/21. Spent Saturday and part of Sunday doing the hammer/dolly routine. 
Today I cleaned up more paint and sanded then took the fender off. I’ll do the filler, primer and then with take it to a shop to paint ( if I can find one willing to do them ) or get the paint gun out for that. 
Todays pic. 

Edited October 11, 2021 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

I am extremely impressed with your work here. Wow!

[SC38dls]

Thanks Matt, if I knew what I was doing it would help. But it’s been fun so far. I think the painting will be the frustrating part of this whole thing. 

[mike6024]

You can paint it yourself if it's just the fenders, and black and you willing to accept less than perfect match. I'd go for it. Start with a "2K" primer/sealer in black. 2K refers to an epoxy type primer, good adhesion to prevent rust. Mix the two parts together to activate, a hardener gets mixed into the paint. Spray on metal that's been prepped with cleaner, degreaser. I have done this, sprayed some rusted auto parts that I cleaned up. Instead of just painting them black I used the 2K stuff because I thought it would stick better. That's why they rusted in the first place, just black paint that did not stick well, peeling off allowing it to rust.

 

[SC38dls]

I've never painted any auto part before.  I may have to paint these fenders as the shop that originally gave me a quote and said they would do it closed. I guess I'm lucky they didn't have the fenders when they shut the doors.  I have a lead on another shop in Augusta that may work on antique cars and will do the paint. I prefer that as they have the equipment, clean room and heat lamps to dry them correctly.  If I have to do it I will set up an area in the garage that is plastic hanging on all 4 sides to keep the dust down.  I don't know what the proper spay nozzle or pressure or even how big of a compressor tank I would need to do the job. I do have a small 3 or 4 gallon compressor but if any of you can give me all of the information I would need to know it would help. I am not sure what paint type to buy. Do I need something to mix with it? do I use a HVLP, or gravity feed or siphon type spray gun?  Do I use a special size nozzle or a special type spray nozzle?  Am I a paint dummy? Yes I am! Help is needed if you are willing. 

Thanks

 dave s

Edited October 11, 2021 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[TAKerry]

Dave, painting is not all that hard. The prep is the biggest thing. As you have touched on, the right tools are the next issue. I suppose that you could paint with  a compressor that small but by no means ideal. By the time you buy all the stuff you will need you may find that you are better off letting someone do the job for you. Their quote may be high, but you can easily have $1500. in tools and material.  I have mentioned before that MAACO may be an option if there is one in your area. I think they are franchised, talk to the owner and feel them out. I talked to a couple before I found one that did 'special jobs'.  The guys that work there should certainly know their way around a spray gun, and honestly shooting a fender off the car is pretty simple stuff.

[SC38dls]

Great idea about Macco, I will check around. I’ve been to most of the body shops in Aiken with no success. Augusta is a larger city so I’m hopeful the lead I have is going to come thru. 
dave s 

[mike6024]

I just use a small low horsepower compressor with a 7 gallon tank. Very small, inexpensive. And a syphon gun, only around $40 I think. HVLP you can get an adequate gun affordably too. Tip 1.3 mm I think it was. Followed the instructions on the gun I bought on using it. I think 60 psi for the syphon gun I had. You should also put a filter to trap water between the tank and the gun, so you don't get water vapor or droplets coming out with the paint. The finish for the primer/sealer is not critical as long as you don't put runs in it. I just sprayed several very light coats. I mean I went over it several times lightly. Then let it dry. Then repeated. Ended up with the matte finish sealer coat.

 

Prep the bare metal. Wash all oil off with mild soap and water then you wipe it down with the "metal prep" stuff the paint supplier sells which i think has a mild acid.

Then you could do acrylic lacquer over that, and if your finish does not come out as glossy as you want do more coats then fine wet sanding and buffing.

 

There's more than one way to do this but the point is it can be done without going overboard. Personally I'd rather do it myself, because for one thing I have more confidence in the epoxy sealer coat getting a good bond to the metal, compared to what some low-budget shop might do.

[mike6024]

It also may help to add a little lacquer thinner or reducer to the paint after mixing it up, because thinner tends to spray easier without the droplets showing in the finish. So practice spraying just a bit on some scrap before spraying your actual piece, adjust the tip of the gun and the paint air mix so not "blobs" are coming out, you can see the spray pattern. An even mist without any big droplets.

[wayne sheldon]

I sure cannot help with the specifics for modern paints! Forty years ago, I painted several cars myself. Small cheap compressor, 30psi, WATER TRAP in the air line, syphon gun. I used old style lacquers, enamels, and really liked using acrylic enamel automotive paints (I don't know if you can even get that stuff anymore?). I still have most of the equipment.

Using plastic sheets can work okay for a one-time use.  But the paint doesn't stick to the plastic very well. If you don't take out the old and put up fresh every time you paint? The paint begins to flake off and blown by the airflows put out by the painting gun drifts into your fresh paint! (Not a good thing!!!)

 

Satisfying and easy work.

[JACK M]

I would bet that your local NAPA has industrial grade enamel in black and probably at a good price.

[Zimm63]

One thing I don't see mentioned is PPE.  Some (most?) of the modern paints have pretty strong recommendations for resparators, up to including a separate source of air for the painter.   

 

Be interesting to hear what types of paint people are using and what PPE.  

[TAKerry]

Summit has both single stage black (which would be more than good for this job) and BC/CC black at a very reasonable price. I have used this and it is a good paint.

[SC38dls]

I’ll check out summit and Zimmerman as far as PPE what’s one more problem for this busted up old body mine not the car! 
Seriously I have worried about breathing while painting as it is a problem with today’s paints. That is one of the reasons I’ve tried to find a shop that will paint the fenders. If I can’t rattle cans are looking better and better. It’s not a show car it’s a fun daily driver. There are many places that primer or what ever was used back in 38 shows thru the paint. The rest of the car is original paint and it does have scratches and flaws. Maybe no one will notice the fenders. I just won’t let any concour judges at Pebble get within 20 feet of it next year! 😳
dave s  

[Dave39MD]

I have been learning (the hard way) as I go painting a 31 Chevrolet. I am using single stage urethane paint. I debated the need for a fresh air system but went ahead and bought a Hobby Air System from Eastwood. In the end I did not want to risk hurting myself and I will spread the cost ($750 or so) over several projects.  It works well and it is very satisfying when the painting, sanding, and buffing go well. 

 

Dave

Edited October 13, 2021 by Dave39MD (see edit history)

[TAKerry]

Honestly, for what you are trying to achieve spray bombs may be the answer. Im not sure I would use run of the mill rustoleum. I have been told that good auto paint stores/suppliers can put paint in a spray can but have never used that service. 

I have bought paint from Automotive Touch Up in New Orleans. Call and talk to someone on the phone. They have great customer service. They sell paint from fingernail size touch up bottles to gallons. You can get spray cans with a decent quality auto paint. You would have to talk to them about single stage vs. their bc/cc. But, they sell a decent clear in a spray can as well. Their prices are very reasonable.

[Laughing Coyote]

3 minutes ago, TAKerry said:

I have been told that good auto paint stores/suppliers can put paint in a spray can but have never used that service. 

The company I go to for auto paint does it all the time. Not cheap since it's automotive grade paint. I was quoted $45 a can with a minimum of 3 cans.  I would call around like TAKerry suggested for costs.

[Bloo]

Don't use spray bombs, especially Rustoleum spray bombs. If you try to use those (primer etc) with stuff from other manufacturers you are going to have lifting and adhesion problems. On a repair like this it is bound to happen. I don't mean to cast shade on Rustoleum. This just isn't the place to use it.

[Harold]

The last time I was in Tractor Supply they carried gloss equipment paint in quarts and gallons.  Might be worth a look.

[Gary_Ash]

A second on Tractor Supply "Majik" brand enamel paint, $37 per gallon, $15 per quart.  For your fenders, one quart may be enough.  They have it in black and other colors.  Use it with their catalyst hardener ($20) for faster drying and more gloss.  I had to re-paint the chassis on my Indy car project, bought the Majik paint in "Ford tractor light gray".  Everything to be painted got washed with detergent and water, wiped down with lacquer thinner, wiped again with a tack rag just before painting.  I put it on with a Purdy high-quality, natural bristle brush to avoid issues with breathing sprayed paint fumes with the cyanide hardener, didn't need to add reducer.  I did wear a mask with charcoal filters to adsorb organic vapors and rubber gloves.  I didn't wear a Tyvek suit, but it might be a good idea when painting a larger area while indoors.  Let it dry a few days before mounting the fenders.  After about a month, maybe less, you can color sand to smooth it out, will look like it was sprayed.  But, if you are careful to avoid sags and runs while brushing, you may not need to color sand.  Use thin coats, practice on a piece of scrap metal.  I did one coat over a greenish-gray, very glossy, haven't sanded it, looks OK from 5-10 ft, just a few sags.

 

[8E45E]

In the end, you are going to appreciate and drive this car MORE than you ever did before!   

 

Keep up the excellent work!

 

Craig

[TAKerry]

IF and thats a big if, you brush on the paint, def use the highest quality brush.  I dont know if something like flo-trol is compatible with the TSC paint but that will even out the brush marks. NOW, this is gonna sound REALLY crazy.  A small 'hot dog' roller with a bit of care could be convinced to lay down a great paint job. Rarely do I need a show car finish on an exterior door, so I dont use any leveling/flo agents in the paint. But I can roll a flat steel door and one would be hard pressed to tell the diff between that and a spray job. You could try the underside first and get a feel for the results. And like Gary said, I would imagine you could let it harden and buff out.  I am sure Ed or AJ (or many others) can confirm, but I think the early R/R were brush painted then hand buffed.

[Gary_Ash]

Dave is probably laughing at us as we talk about brush painting.  I found one of his posts from back about 2007 in which he discussed brush painting cars with his brother when they were "youngsters".  He knows all about this, just letting us ramble on.  We just want to see the car go back together with Dave driving.

[SC38dls]

Gary I’ve brush painted two cars in my life one was my brothers 49 Plymouth convertible. The last one was my first car a 57 DeSoto. We used 4 inch cheap brushes and a gallon of porch & deck enamel from a discount store. So you are somewhat right when you say I’m laughing but not at you just of the memories. 
 

I will have the fenders spray painted by a shop hopefully. If not I will do them. I will either buy a gun or use cans. I did find a supply house that will match the paint from a side panel and put it in spray cans. I have to buy 3 cans at a minimum but they will give me a price break for 6 or more so I’ll go for that if necessary. 
 

My expectations are to have it back on the road within two weeks. Drive it for a couple weeks then buff it out. I will know more tomorrow as I’m going to the shop in Augusta that may paint it. But either way it’s going to be on the road soon and I’ll be having fun driving it with Gracie. Unfortunately Sophie is no longer with us. She made it past her 15th year by a few months. Gracie is her sister and is beginning to show her age, but still loves to ride in the car. 
dave s 
 

[Fossil]

If you use spray cans I highly recommend using one of these. 

[60FlatTop]

When I was dating my wife I found her a 1968 Falcon wagon 302. While she was at work I brush painted the car red. My last touch was a dab of red to one side of the tailgate window.

When she came home she was impressed but asked about the smear on the window. "I didn't want it to be perfect" I replied.

 

No matter what you do, especially dealing with older men, always leave some really obvious flaw for them to find and point out quickly. It's a big relief to get past the scrutiny quickly.

 

Oh, and since you did the job yourself, it won't take long to observe that the only sense an old car hobbyist can trust is touch. No matter what is in front of them they have to touch it to be sure. Think I'm kidding? Watch them.