1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[MCHinson]

Thanks but I think it was somebody else who gave you that advice. I don't remember it and since I have never disassembled mine, it could not have been me. I have sent you some advice but that one was not me.

[Gary W]

It was Don Micheletti who taught me the proper wiper motor disassembly technique.  Trying to work from memory, and it failed me!  Appreciate all the help!!  Thanks

Gary W

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

Don has been heavily involved in the pre war Buick stuff for many years and has restored at least one from the ground up. He has also helped me with my Buick projects. Thanks Don

[DonMicheletti]

Gary,

Thanks for the recognition. it really wasnt necessary, but I appreciate it.

One other thing. On reassembly, you have to be careful not to push the shafts to far in or the wiper arm will hit the tower body.

 

This is what you'd get if you didnt remove the chain. You have to be careful because the little pot metal arm attaching to the reach rod is very fragile.

 

Also they are right and left.

[Gary W]

Wednesday May 17:  OFF TO THE PAINT SHOP!!

My gang arrived at 8:30 this morning with a trailer, tie-downs and some muscle.  Loaded the body, doors, trunk lid, cowl vent and windshield separator on to the trailer and delivered it all to the painter.  

 

We kept the body on the wooden frame and lined her up with the ramps.  

 

With a guy at each corner, we made sure the wheels were centered on the ramps

 

And a good "heave-ho" got the body up onto the trailer.

 

While John and Mike tied her down tight, I got the doors from in the house.  We carried them in the back of the SUV.

 

Here we are all ready for the 3-mile trip to the painter

 

Arrived safe and sound.  The blue chevy (?) is shipping out this weekend so I'm next!

 

All loaded in.  

 

All-in-all it went nice and easy and the wooden frame with the locking casters makes it easy to spin and paint.  

 

I'm going to try to document the entire painting process as he goes through it.  

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

Now comes the FUN part.

 

[Gary W]

Saturday May 20, 2017:  Hard wired a temporary dash panel

 

I've been running the engine for a few 15-20 minute runs to get it up to operating temp and start the break-in process, letting the rings seat and getting everything happy in there. 

I usually hooked up temporary wires with alligator clips to the battery, jumper cables, generator.....and physically pushed the solenoid contacts together while John worked the carburetor.

So I built a temporary "ignition switch / dash board" unit so I can start it from the carburetor side of the engine and easily monitor the engine speed, the automatic choke and quickly shut it down if needed.  I used the Buick wiring diagram and drew my own version of the ignition circuit.  So I'll show my work in case anyone else wants to do the same thing.

 

The 1937 Buick are supposed to have a "5-post" Voltage Regulator.  I got my car with a later model "4-post" VR.  This is how I made the connections.

 

Here's what it looks like sitting on the chassis.  So now I simply turn my "ignition switch" (light switch) on and rotate the vacuum starter switch clockwise and off she goes!

 

The pencil is jammed in the neoprene hose to stop any vacuum leak through the wiper fitting and it keeps the starter switch wires off the manifolds.

 

The engine is running very smooth and it does not overheat, and that was last Wednesday when it was 94 out.  

Does anyone know of a rebuilder for that automatic choke unit?  It slightly opens on vacuum pressure, but never fully opens the throttle plate which this engine needs.

 

[Paul White]

Hi Gary,

 

I am really enjoying watching your progress. Given the time difference here in Australia, I arrive at work to find new posts each morning. My work buddy has also become a fan...looking forward to more posts.

 

Cheers

 

Paul White

[Gary W]

Sunday May 21, 2017:

 

VIDEO:  Demonstrating the "starting technique" with the temporary instrument cluster.  You'll note when the switch is closed, the ammeter goes to discharge, and quickly rights itself when the engine starts.

 

IMG_9712.MOV

 

Sorry about all the carburetor intake noise.  These iPhones seem to exaggerate the extraneous sounds.  I don't have the air cleaner installed yet because the choke needs to be manually held open until I can figure some kind of fix for the automatic choke.

Edited May 22, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

Interesting. I had always wondered how the 4 post regulator was wired, but never curious enough to actually find out. Thanks, now I know.

[Gary W]

Monday May 22, 2017:

 

Just took delivery of a NOS 4-terminal voltage regulator. (Delco-Remy Model 1118213)  I wanted to share the instruction sheet that is in the box.  It's in perfect shape.  

 

Not only is it very informative on how to convert the original "5-post" Voltage Regulator to the new version "4-post"  (Don't use the wire that goes to the "IGN" post) but

it also describes how to easily make sure the generator has the correct polarity with respect to the battery it is to charge.  

 

I was told to be sure to polarize the generator by running a jumper wire from the "+" battery terminal straight over to the "A" terminal on the generator and MOMENTARILY FLASH the wire to ensure correct polarity.  Thanks again, Don for the advice and instruction.

 

But, these instructions, while also stressing the need to be sure to polarize the generator, describe a different procedure:  Simply connect a jumper wire MOMENTARILY between the "GEN" and "BAT" posts of the Voltage Regulator BEFORE starting the engine.  The momentary surge of battery current will correctly polarize the generator.  

 

 

Thought you'd find it interesting.

 

[FLYER15015]

Gary,

I noticed on the previous page where the body went off to the painter, that the stainless belt line trim was masked rather than removed.

Do you intend to leave it on when you paint ?

It is SO EASY to pull and the clips are easy to come by, and the paint job will be so much better.

 I cannot understand why you don't pull it ????? Same goes for the doors and hood.

Please explain your reasoning.

 

Mike in Colorado

[39BuickEight]

He explained it in an earlier post.  It will be taken off for painting.  Post 219:

 

"I couldn't get any tools under and around the inside "drip pan" or "gutter" or whatever you call that part under the rear window regulator.  The clips are buried behind that.  My painter has tools that will release the molding prior to paint so I'll let him do it.  I wanted to take it off, but I didn't want to pry it anywhere for fear of deforming it."

 

I do agree though.  It pops right off with just a little persuasion.

Edited May 23, 2017 by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

[Gary W]

I did remove every piece of trim, but had a hard time getting that particular trim off.  I could only get to the trunk clip easily and I was afraid to pry.   I just didn't want to bend it.  

But don't worry.... It is coming off prior to paint.

 

PS The masking tape was on there to protect the stainless steel molding from the sand blaster.  Not for the painter.

Edited May 23, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Tuesday May 23, 2017:     Visit to the paint shop

 

 

9:30am I stopped by the painter.  His first task was indeed the removal of those two trim pieces.  

He is going to do the metal fabrication first to take care of the rot just ahead of the rear fender.

Then the whole body gets a sanding with 100 grit paper before the self-etching prime, build up prime.......  I'll get the whole process as it unfolds.

 

 

 

Trim moldings are removed and he was able to preserve all the clips inside.  There is no rust at all on the underside of the moldings!

 

 

Close up you can see the original Hampton Grey 

 

 

Begin hand sanding the roughness left from the blaster.  It actually sands smooth easily.

[FLYER15015]

Seeing the pic's above, I feel a WHOLE LOT BETTER .

Thanks Gary !!!!

 

Mike in Colorado

[Gary W]

Thursday  May  25,  2017:     Steering  Wheel  Restoration!

 

IT'S  CHRISTMAS  DAY!!  

 

UPS just delivered my steering wheel.  I have to express my sincerest THANK YOU and JOB WELL DONE to J.B. Donaldson Steering Wheel Restoration in Phoenix, AZ.  I worked with Jim throughout the restoration, and these guys know their stuff.  They're "car people" and understand even the crazy "Type-A" that some of us can be.  Let me show off a little here, as I am so very very happy with the results:

 

Here is the original steering wheel the day I drove the car home, November 2, 2016.  The rim is cracked all around, the chrome is shot, the center plastic insert is broken and the center medallion is crooked.

 

Here it is in February, on the kitchen counter getting ready to boxed and shipped to J.B. Donaldson in AZ.

 

This photo is kind of dark, but you get the idea of the condition of the steering wheel.

 

 

READY   FOR   THIS  ???

 

 

 

 

 

Beautiful craftsmanship!

 

Every inch is beautifully restored to it's original glory!

 

All the chrome is mirror finish!

 

The fit and finish is perfect!

 

I found this horn button on eBay.  The detail work is just beautiful.

 

Before and after.

 

 

" A very good day! "

 

 

 

 

Edited May 27, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[neil morse]

Congratulations to both you and Mr. Donaldson!  (But I have to add that you are a very bad influence because I have seen Mr. Donaldson's prices, and now you are tempting me! )

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Beautiful job! At some point I will have mine done. Instead of the 1 million small cracks like yours had mine had about 15 big cracks/splits. As a temporary measure, I inserted white epoxy putty that I tinted to try to match the yellow cream, then smoothed, sanded, polished and buffed. You can still see where I filled it easily but at least the wheel is smooth now so it doesn't catch my fingers. When I can see my way clear to spend a kilobuck I will get this done as well.

 

BTW is the cream color original? Or were they more white? The reason I ask is the plastic discolors to the yellow cream which is actually much better looking. For example, Catalin radios that you see now with the lovely butterscotch color were originally white and faded/yellowed with the light and heat. If you were to "restore" a Catalin to the original white you would kill the value completely.

 

Cheers, Dave

[Paul White]

What an amazing transformation! It prompted me to have a close look at my own steering wheel, although it is in relatively good condition, I am rather tempted to to contact Mr Donaldson and Co.!!!!!  

[MrEarl]

The detail in that horn button is unbelievable! And beautiful! 

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

Gosh, how did they do that?

 

Since you say you've mostly completed the chassis work, and are now into the beautification and artistic phase of things with the body at the paint shop, steering wheel restored and interior yet to come, is it too early to ask just what kind of tires you have in mind for your car? Will you be staying with blackwalls or going with whitewalls? And what about the all important choice of original bias-ply tube-type versus more modern radial?

[Gary W]

May 27, 2017:   Wheels and Tires

 

Here's the plan for the Wheels and Tires:  

 

I'm taking all five wheels to my local powder coater Tuesday morning.  All five wheels will be blasted and powder coated "Mirror Black".  

Then I'm going to mount my new Firestone "Deluxe Champions" with a 4-inch whitewall.  I got them from Coker Tire and they are:  Bias Ply,  Tube-Type,  Zig-Zag Tread,  6.50-16   4-ply Polyester.

Made in USA!

 

Sorry about the blue ink (Is that a protective thing?)

 

 

 

Here's the details

 

Coker's SKU:  663520

 

 

 

[smithbrother]

I don't recall a BETTER coverage of a restore job. 

 

Great photo's/work.

 

Dale in Indy

[Spinneyhill]

I recommend that you get a zinc undercoat put on your wheels before the powder. Then when you get chips, it won't rust away invisibly under the hard coating.

 

Now when you drive the car, NO RINGS! You'll scratch the steering wheel and it would be a crime to mess up such a beautiful job with such carelessness!

[Larry Schramm]

3 hours ago, Gary W said:

May 27, 2017:   Wheels and Tires

 

Here's the plan for the Wheels and Tires:  

 

I'm taking all five wheels to my local powder coater Tuesday morning.  All five wheels will be blasted and powder coated "Mirror Black".  

Then I'm going to mount my new Firestone "Deluxe Champions" with a 4-inch whitewall.  I got them from Coker Tire and they are:  Bias Ply,  Tube-Type,  Zig-Zag Tread,  6.50-16   4-ply Polyester.

Made in USA!

 

 

I would also be sure to put some RTV sealant in the area/groove where the outer wheel part meets and is welded to the center part.  Because powder coating is put on with an electrostatic discharge powder coat will not get into the groove and it will be bare metal -+.  If you do not, it will most likely rust.

[37 Buick Special]

Perfect!

[Gary W]

Monday, May 29, 2017:  Removed the Wheels and set the chassis on the Uni-Dollys

 

But First.....  On this Memorial Day:  To all the vets who served and currently serve..... Thank you for your sacrifice so we can enjoy the freedom to do things like this restoration.  

We are indebted to you all and grateful for all you do for this great country!

 

 

It was a very busy weekend so I literally just got out into the garage an hour ago to pull the wheels off the car to get them ready for the powder coater.  I raised the chassis up onto my Uni-Dollys, and got all five wheels stacked up.  I'll deflate them, break the bead and remove all the rubber tomorrow morning and drop the wheels off to be blasted and coated.  I do have a question regarding the RTV.  I think that's a great idea whether you use powder or paint.  My wheels are painted and I have that rust groove.  I never noticed it until it was mentioned above.

 

This is where I'm at.  Besides trying to fix that darn automatic choke, I don't have much to do to the chassis.  

 

So I pulled the wheels and got the chassis on the Uni-Dollys.  They are very handy.

 

My tires were installed somewhere in the Eighties.  They are very dry all around.

 

And there is the rust ring!  So my question is...  Does that area show between the hub cap and the beauty ring?  Will you see the RTV sealant?

 

This is the spare tire.  It was in that leaky trunk for many, many years and it got pretty messed up.  Is that a structural problem or will it be fine once it's all cleaned up?

 

 

 

[Spinneyhill]

If you put zinc on first you won't need the RTV? Powder might not  go into the groove very well because of electrostatic effects - perhaps ask the powder coater about this?

 

Will it be strong? - clean it up and see how much metal is lost?

Edited May 30, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[FLYER15015]

Gary,

Just a thought regarding the rust at the rim / disk joint of your wheels.

Your pictures just show cosmetic rust, not a structural issue at all.

This comes from working 10 years at Kelsey Hayes as their welding engineer, making wheels and rims like these @ 480 an hour.

 

If you lay the rim flat on the floor and poured a cup of "Evap-O-Rust in the rim, and let them sit for a day or three, I'll bet the rust would be gone.

That stuff has worked wonders for me and it is relatively inexpensive and available @ Tractor Supply or True Value Hdwr.

Soak your nuts and bolts in a bucket of this stuff and they come out squeaky clean in a day or so.

Parts do have to be submerged. You cannot paint it on and make it work.

 

Q= Are you going to paint or powdercoat the rims ?

If so this would be a good start before you sand / soda blast them.

 

Mike in Colorado

 

PS; when you get ready to hand the gas tank, think about using "slit" wash machine drain hose as your upper and lower strap cushioning material.

Edited May 31, 2017 by FLYER15015 (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Wednesday May 31, 2017:  Restoration of the Wheels

 

Change of Plans:  Not going to powder coat the rims.  I'll sand them out and paint them.

 

So I removed the tires and tubes and got the rims stripped down.  Drove them down to our local powder coater and found out that the previous owner no longer owned the place.  They informed me that the process has gotten a lot more expensive, and they cannot get to my wheels for SIX WEEKS!  So I asked if they could  just blast them clean for me, and they said "Sure....we'll have them blasted in SIX WEEKS!"  So I've changed the plan for the rims.  

 

1. Starting with a 60 grit paper, then working to an 80,120 and finally a 300 grit, I hand sanded the rims down so they were smooth.

2. I used the edge of the paper to get in that groove in the rim, and sanded all the surface rust out.

3. For the INSIDE RIM:  The side that goes against the brake drum, I chose to use my POR-15 and paint it by hand as all you will ever see is the outer rim running around the brake drum.

4. For the drop center area: Again, a coating of POR-15 to keep it from rusting.

5. For the OUTSIDE RIM:  For the side of the wheel that will be seen:  I'll prime it, sand it and use my Super Jet Black, sprayed on smooth to match the car's final color.

 

Today I spent hours sanding, sanding and then sanding.  I used a wire wheel on my electric drill to get in and around the rivet heads and into that groove.  I blew out all the sanding dust with my compressor, then using BrakeKleen, I sprayed everything down.  A final acetone wash to remove any remnants and the rim was ready to go.  I painted only the INNER RIM today.  I'll get the second coat tomorrow, and the drop center.

 

Here we go:  All the rubber removed from the rims. (*NOTE: that wheel behind, laying on the ground, has a different "drop" where the hubcap fits in. It was the spare in the trunk)

 

The condition of the INNER RIM prior to sanding and sanding and sanding and....

 

There is a good surface rust over every surface.

 

Here's my "toolbox" today

 

The center drop before cleaning up.

 

Came across this manufacturer's name and a bunch of numbers stamped in to the inside drop area.

 

After a lot of work!

 

Sanded out and ready to be wiped out with acetone.

 

Starting to look a lot better.

 

Begin brushing on the POR-15

 

That paint goes on real smooth and seems to "settle" out nice without leaving any brush marks.  The sun was literally baking the paint onto the inner rims.

 

Here's one finished. All you'll see once installed is the very outer rim, and that came out nice and smooth.

 

I'm trying to show some close-up shots of the rim.

 

I let all five sit in the sun for a couple hours.  The black really absorbs the heat and the POR-15 seems to "bake" on.

 

On the bench to dry overnight.

 

Tomorrow I'll paint on a second coat to this "Inner Rim", and also paint the "drop" where the tube sits.

 

....And the risk of painting outside...... pesky bug flew right into the wet paint!  Rats.  I'll get him out when I do the second coat tomorrow!

 

 

I am very happy with the results and saved a ton of money also.  My goal is to prime the outside of the wheels Saturday, hopefully painting Sunday and mounting new tires .......?

[Janousek]

Do yourself a favor and ditch that woven ground strap and run a 1/0 cable from the battery to a starter bolt.    You will elimate hassles in the future by allowing the current to flow and not through the frame.  A hot car will appreciate this mod.    

[39BuickEight]

Looking good Gary!  For all of the work you do I can't believe you don't have a sandblaster of your own.  The cheap 5 gallon Harbor Freight blaster is fantastic for hobbyists.  Anyway, you are getting it done regardless, carry on!

[DonMicheletti]

The sandblast pot isnt the only problem. Sandblasters are air hogs and You need a relly good one to keep the blaster going.

[39BuickEight]

True, we have a $400 upright compressor and we just make sure we don't run it constantly for too long, and from time to time check it to make sure its not getting too hot.  It's held up for years so far.  We have done the whole car (and countless other projects) with it and the 5 gal blaster.  We also have the blasting cabinet from HF.  Of course, depending on where you live, there are countless regulations regarding indoor and outdoor sandblasting.  Luckily we have none of those.

[FLYER15015]

Gary,

It appears from the wheel pictures that 4  of the wheels are of riveted construction, and the spare seems to be spot welded.

May have been replaced at some time.

Wouldn't you like to go back and see how they did these ?

Check out "youtube" in your spare time and search for the "Master hands" vidieo.

It shows how they made the '36 Chevy, from the foundry thru the assembly line.

The Frame line is amazing, in that a guy is standing there and his job is to insert 3 rivets.

 

I do have to agree with 39 buick eight that a sand blaster of some sort should be on your shopping list, and fathers day is just around the corner.

You should be dropping "hints" like crazy, starting now.........

 

Mike in Colorado

[Gary W]

Love that video.  I've watched it many, many times.  Fascinates me to see how these cars were built.  Another video I've watched over and over is "1937 Oldsmobile"

It's amazing how many traits are shared with the Buick, and it really helped me with some of the restoration, just seeing how things are supposed to go together correctly.

 

 

[DonMicheletti]

One of the most interesting aspect of the Olds video ia at the end.

I notice that even in'37, Olds had a modern type automatic choke instead of the Rube Goldberg choke on Buicks.

I think in designing the '38 choke there was a contest to see who could design a choke mechanism with the most parts and the winner went into ptoduction.

While it can work OK, the Buick choke really is complicated and a PITA to get adjusted correctly.

[Spinneyhill]

Just a note that POR15 is a moisture cure paint. If you leave it in the sun (exposed to UV light) it will discolour towards white. The recommendations I have seen say to overcoat it at the "barely tacky" stage of curing.

[Jack Worstell]

Isn't POR 15   UV  ( sunlight ) sensitive ?       And therefore a topcoat is almost necessary ?

To topcoat POR 15 it almost has to be done while it is still tacky....so I've read.

 

Jack Worstell    jlwmaster@aol.com