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Janousek

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  1. I was short on time this morning. Those delco units are wired to 12 volt voltage regulator out of the 60's. They charge the battery well. Your car doesn't appear to be a touring car so I'm sure it would work well for your application. Modern serpantine belt was used so a new pulley was made to replace the v-belt pulley on the original starter/gen. Personally I think a v-belt would work better and possibly slip less than the serp that was used in this car. 2 v-belts would be better but a new pulley would have to be made. A ring gear and mini starter from a forklift would be more foolproof but you have to add an alternator or charge the battery often if used on a tour.
  2. The belt units I've worked on didn't work that well because the belt was quickly saturated with oil and it would slip on the flywheel. These were large HP cars so maybe on a the smaller Buick and keep it wiped off you would probably be fine. They use a starter/generator from a 60's era simplicity lawn mower. They are a delco unit. The flywheel should have a groove machined in it to keep the flat belt in line.
  3. I'm in Michigan. Morgan, I have a 263 engine but I don't want to use it. The waterneck is located in a different position and I'd like to keep it correct. Between the motor mount castings and the waterneck it's easy to spot the newer engine. The rods in this were converted to slip bearings so I can use them.
  4. Our 40' special is leaking from a welded water jacket. Crack runs across most of the block under the head. I really don't want to stitch or try to reweld it. Figure I'd rebuild another and have it ready to swap in a weekend. Thanks, Brad
  5. I service a 41' Cadillac with factory air and when that car was new you would put the belt on in the spring and take it off in the fall. It's right in the owners manual. You have to lose your 6volt because a compressor clutch isn't available in 6volt. With all the companies around right now it isn't to hard to add air. It's just how classy it looks when your done. I've seen some bad ones. Kinda like an alternator on a car designed for a generator. Most make me want to throw up.
  6. I'm going on 10 years and 12k miles on our 31' Buick tuneup with points and condenser. I keep spares in the car but haven't touched them. Most have forgotten to bend the points flat so they actually close flat and not on a corner. It helps with life. Modern/Cheap condensers is a bigger concern than the points will ever be for me.
  7. My tank has had some pin holes soldered in the top at some point. I've been removing the solder and tig welding them shut. I'll tig the holes until it passes a pressure test and run it for this year. Once the tank liner I use is back in stock I will have the tank dipped, more pressure testing, welding, and then I'll seal it. I'd still buy a better one if it comes up. If I have to buy a new one and modify it a bunch then I might as well use this one because either way I'd want to line it after I move the filler neck. Thanks for the information
  8. Have a rusty tank and the tank sealer I use isn't available until mid july. Wonder if any good tanks are out there or if anybody is making them. 269-986-4697 Brad
  9. Are you saying you put standard bearings in a .010 over ground crank?
  10. I dislike assembly. Every piece will fight to the end regardless of how well it was fitted before paint or chrome.
  11. It's just a bummer for everyone involved. I go to Hershey for the swapping and leave before the car show. It's kinda like the deer hunting my father did with his buddies. All BS but a lot of fun. We social distance all day in the orange field and you can throw a bowling ball down the isle and not hit a soul most of the day. It's just a parking spot as the guys park in their spaces and start walking. How is it acceptable to do a car show and not the swap meet? Some in our group are getting older and giving them a year off and they might not return for numerous reasons. If not for them I probably won't make the annual trip because I can usually internet buy every part as soon as I get home instead of the walking the 26 miles to not find what I'm looking for.
  12. Stuff is getting deep. Who is asking people to die by opening a business responsibly? More lives will be ruined/affected negatively by this shutdown than the virus will ever do.
  13. Steve, I meant the USA. Not the aaca volunteers that setup and run the show. We all have opinions on the subject but the CDC released a death rate of less than .3%. Yes, that is .3%. I understood in the beginning when the numbers scared most everybody. We were scared for a couple weeks until the data started flowing. At this point who even knows how many have actually died from the virus as money is given for each death labeled "Covid". We are supposed to live in fear the rest of our lives and hide behind masks. If I was high risk I'd stay home. Right now I'm not going to live on my knees and I won't have my identity taken away by some homemade mask that doesn't work anyway. Here in Michigan we can't go to church but we can get pot/booze/lotto and put covid positive people in retirement homes. Something is wrong and people need to wake up if they love the good old USA.
  14. We were so fortunate to get Amelia Island completed before this crap stopped that also. I'm sad we won't have Hershey this year and a little ashamed of our society at the same time. Were a bunch of pathetic pansy azz's if you ask me. I understand the legal portion and it's sad what we've become.
  15. Are you adding flattener to the Imron? I'm not aware of semi-gloss Imron but I quit using the stuff over 5 years ago. Local jobber no longer mixes it but I could get black gallons. The last gallon I purchased had completely different characteristics compared to what I'd been spraying for years. Felt like I was paying for the name but the product wasn't the same. Personally I'd ditch the Imron and go the epoxy route only. SPI epoxy is the best stuff I've found. Reasonably priced and the best quality. Why add another topcoat that isn't as durable as the epoxy under it? I powerwash the blasted frame and then air dry before shooting the epoxy. This only works with larger commercial type compressors or mega leaf blower to get it dried before it flash rusts. This is depending on the humidity. Anything over 60% is going to go orange pretty quick. Any wipes are going to end up with fuzzy's on the metal. Which isn't a problem if you plan on sanding it.
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