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About Janousek

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  1. The color is not only important but so is the output. The cheaper ones I tried weren't any better than the florescents they replaced. The ones I listed are around 3000 lumens. Most were around 2000 and weren't an upgrade other than the utility bill. I don't care about the bill as I don't like working with trouble lights. I have a few that aren't frosted and I didn't care for them. If your working on your back they have a sharp glare out the corner of my eyes. Lots of fixtures with good even light is way better than few with really bright bulbs unless you like shadows and such. I've converted most of my fixtures with new tombstones from amazon. They are cheap and most of the originals are so cheap they break when trying to switch the pins. Mine strips were all lithonia but I bought some of the strips that are wired for led. Those are nice. You only power one side of the bulbs. Hot and neutral wires into the end. A lot easier than screwing around running through the ballast.
  2. I'd add a lot more light fixtures also. I've tried 6 different led 4' bulbs from different suppliers and settled with over 120 from Eledlights.com. Ultra hi lumen, 6k color with frosted lens. Best I've found for working on old cars. 4k or 5k color is yellow. I've never received any savings from led conversions because I always add more fixtures for more light. Strip lights the length of the shop with 6' between rows works pretty well. 4' Would be better. What type of insulation is in the walls and ceiling?
  3. Congrats Eric. Just came across this today and didn't realize you were selling. Kellie and I enjoyed sitting and visiting in the car at Eyes on Design when it decided to downpour. Someone purchased a great car.
  4. When we do a tour or a show the car gets driven there and home again. It was the way we were taught. Unfortunately that usually keeps us around within 300 miles or so from home due to time restraints. Someday we will have more time to venture farther out. 20 years ago other people had our same mentality but it's lost now. We were probably the only car that drove to St. Johns this year and especially pre-war. Meadowbrook used to have plenty of show cars in the hotel parking lots. If I could afford a J it would be driven to Auburn every year and would sit out every night just like our Auburn. Wouldn't matter how nice or which one it was. It's just how we do it. The white rolston, blue clear vision, and our Auburn coupe sat out in the rain saturday night and believe it or not they didn't melt.
  5. Most years the Wakens drive their 812 up from Oklahoma. It was trailered this year. A club member used to drive up from AZ but he passed away this year so that trip is over. Seems like it's fewer and fewer cars every year. The owners are passing and the cars aren't around like they used to. A couple years ago the White Rolston drove down from Hickory Corners. Depends on how many cars they bring. That year it was one so it was easier to drive down. I'm not aware of any Duesenbergs driven there this year. I've driven that white Rolston around 50 miles in the past and it was fantastic. I had the blue clear vision with aluminum belts in the shop last spring. Fantastic car, one of the best starting ones I've seen. My wife drives her Auburn coupe 90 miles each way every year while I follow with the camper. She's been driving it down for almost 25 years and her grandpa before that. She stays for the awards and I leave for home early. It's only let her down twice and both times have been a cracked rotor that grounds out to the top of the shaft. She fixed it the second time on the road. It was a real head scratcher the first time.
  6. It will never be for sale but a guy can dream.
  7. Thanks John, but one Auburn is plenty for me. If it wasn't the wife's car then I'd fill the space with something I like.
  8. They did make a coupe. It was released late in the 35' model year. About the rarest Auburns around. Estimated to be six left out of a hundred and some made. It was a cabriolet body with fixed wood/chicken wire top. I know of a few coupes that were turned into cabriolets since open cars were worth more at one time. Comfortable car to drive, back window rolls down and with cowl vent it moves air nicely. Ours has been driving down to Auburn fall for 40 years now. Bad thing with an Auburn is block problems. They are really thin under the valves and all seem to be cracked. They also have 7/16" fine head bolts into cast iron so they have all been helicoiled or they strip out.
  9. I'd check out Coker or Diamondback's website for standard tire dimension info. Flush the brake fluid if it's been sitting a while. Usually they need the works if it has been sitting. If it's power brakes they are known to dump brake fluid in the booster and not work properly.
  10. They ran single master cylinders for over 50 years and you don't hear all the "remember when" stories of what death traps they were. You just keep up on the system and have a proper emergency brake. I hope you have better luck with that crap than I did. I lost a lot of money on that job getting the brakes to actually work and lock up. I know the mc size was 1" or 1 1/8" and the booster was around 8". I think a lot of those companies size everything on theory and it doesn't always translate into your particular pedal angles and such. I have a 59' GMC that put "swing pedals" in with a modern booster and master cylinder running 4 wheel discs. Worse brakes I've ever driven. This kit was supposedly the bomb. It was a bomb all right. I tried 3 different 2stage boosters and two different master cylinders and the brakes still suck. It's my shop truck so I have where they work and almost/barely will the lock the brakes up. I had to keep raising the pedal off the floor until it's an awkward step up onto the brakes. It's on the list for a hydroboost system if I ever get around to it. That might be the only way I added power to your 60' is with a hydroboost setup. More power out of less travel. That is what your fighting.
  11. Put a small pressure gage on the engine and check what the oil pressure really is. You could have plasti-gaged the engine when it was apart as a cheap way to measure the clearances. But.. if you have to pull the engine then just get the crank ground and put new bearings in it. I also run straight 40w in a car like this unless it's driven in winter. Might help your oil pressure for a while until you rebuild it again. And recore the radiator while your rebuilding the engine. I know I'm a broken record on the subject but it's from experience. The fuel filters with return line are readilly available from 5th avenue garage and I usually put a fitting in the sending unit for the return fuel. You usually get by without the return if you have an electric backup pump like you have. Run the filter if you really don't want to think about it. Roger is right the original fuel bowl with return is hard to find. The filter will work or you can make make a fitting the top of your bowl. The hole diameter is .50" or .90" for the restriction. Not for sure which one.
  12. I did miss the manual part at first. Shouldn't be hard to do a conversion. Power booster and maybe the firewall plate is different between the two. This car as well as the Caddy had vacumm tanks, not sure if they do on standard brake cars. I'd rebuild what you have and go from there. I'm with Bernie that the factory wouldn't sell a Buick is the brakes sucked from the factory.
  13. I like reading about this project. Your like a bloodhound with his nose to the ground. Just keep plugging away. I personally refuse to work on a car like that unless the owner lets me install a new wiring harness. They all need a new harness and it's just a matter of time before the car burns up or worse. Unfortunately they aren't cheap for a car like this. Did you have the radiator recored during the engine rebuild? Another must do. It's automatic, just gets replaced. Did you ever find out where your brake fluid was going? You might want to install a bypass fuel filter near the carb with a return line to the tank. All the Caddy A/C cars of this era ran a return off the fuel bowl. Really helps eliminate vapor lock.
  14. I just did a full brake job on a 60' Electra and bought a rebuilt powerbooster on exchange. Ran Napa master and wheel cylinders and rear shoes, new lines/hoses. They didn't list fronts so I had them relined. The brakes are fantastic. 5 years ago I restored a 59' Cadillac 75 series limo. Same master cylinder/booster as the Buick had. I replaced the single master cylinder and booster with a newer combination with dual reservoirs from Ebay. Owner insisted on dual reservior. I had to re-drill the firewall for the new booster pattern. Not a hard job. Brakes weren't very good. I had to fuss with them and add residual valves in the front. They have a lot further stroke than the original and it was hard to keep them from hitting the floor. Those cars from the factory only have a couple inches of pedal stroke before it his the floor and these kits need more. I made them workable but I would refuse to do it next time. Supposably the mc was sized to the wheel cylinders. I don't remember the sizing. Just do a complete system with new lines/rubber hoses/wheel cylinders/mc/booster and have a properly working emergency cable and don't look back. Most of the aftermarket stuff is just there to seperate you from your money and is junk half the time.
  15. Years ago we put Jahns pistons in a 53' Skylark. Nothing but trouble and they would actually swell up and scuff the cylinders. It did it in two sets of pistons before we changed brands and never had anymore trouble. Every since then I try to put a quality forged piston in. I really like using Ross pistons. Easy to deal with and special orders take 3-4 weeks which is pretty good. Customer service at Arias was pretty sad.