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Using concrete blocks as restoration project stands


Guest BJM

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I needed to use some 15 inch tires/wheels off a car to put on another car and used concrete blocks as jack stands.

Worked well. I am curious if these are adequate for long term usage with the safety caveat that I will never get under neath a lifted car by concrete blocks BUT for all other reasons I am wondering if this is OK - if others have used concrete blocks to support a vehicle.

We use these concrete blocks in basement and other "heavy" applications so it seems to me they should work for placement under a car under restoration .

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Should be OK if you use your common sense. The blocks must have a level spot to stand on if they are to be stable. A board or plywood underneath won't hurt. The blocks must be right way up not laid flat. And a piece of wood on top to spread the load, like a 2X8.

The danger is that the block might tip over, or crumble under the weight. But if used properly this will not happen.

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Concrete blocks are strong in compression and should be OK for stands with a few conditions. Never put yourself under the car. They must be used with the webs verticle (as used in a wall). Only one block high. Only on a firm surface. Only with a wood spacer between block and car. Any thing else moves away from safe towards unsafe. How far you want to go is up to you.........Bob

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Concrete blocks are very strong in compression. They must be used in the form that you would build a foundation on to utilize this strength. The concern that I have is that they are like any other mortar based material and they will hold moisture. If you are in an area that is prone to damp they may not be the best for a vehicle. They can trap moisture and bring it to the contact point creating rust. This is the same reason why people use vapor barrier under concrete. Moisture control is the issue.

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Have used concrete blocks, (We called them, cinder blocks) most of my younger years for jack stands.

Always use them as if they were being used in a wall....As a brick mason would lay them in a building, the long way with the holes facing UP. This is how concrete blocks were designed to be used for building and supporting weight.

(Ever seen the Karate guys break them with their bare hands. They break them with the sides facing up.)

ALWAYS use a 2x8, as long as the block, on top of the block to support the weight.

ALWAYS support weight in the middle of the block over the webbing with the 2x8 between the load and the stone block. The webbing is the partition, inside the block, in the middle.

NEVER use them outside on the dirt/grass for jack stands, unless you double them by staggering them on top of each other.

My 2 Cents.

An old friends wife came home from work one afternoon to find her husband missing.

Thats right. They/she found him under his truck, in the yard. The concrete blocks had shifted in the soft soil, the truck fell, and crushed his chest.

Harbor Freight sells GREAT jack stands at great prices.

We're not even talking, yet, about the potential damage to your car or your garage when the car falls using concrete blocks.

Bill Harmatuk

Been there. Done that.

Edited by Bill Harmatuk (see edit history)
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Jack stands are cheap compared to what can happen if a cinderblock fails. Yeah, I've used them too, along with a lot of other things that scare me when I look back. Like a stack of rusty wheels, or haphazardly placed 4x4's, before I learned how to properly crib a heavy load...

Overkill jack stands with a large footprint are still cheap, but even they don't work well on dirt.

Best thing I ever found for that was a big ol' tree stump, but it was 2 feet tall and about 20" diameter, and it was heavy to move around and awkward to get the vehicle high enough off the ground to place it. But, once under there, the car wouldn't shift or move.

Amazing what a teenage boy with no cash and some redneck engineering talent can accomplish!

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Concrete blocks are very strong under compression, PROVIDED that the load is spread evenly. For instance, if the only thing making contact with the block is an A arm, and the only part of the arm actually touching or placing the greater weight is the shock mount bolt , it could crack the block like a nut. Buy some jackstands. They are cheap and you will use them constantly if you're a car guy

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Why risk it over a few bucks?

Correct jack stands for just this purpose are available in many places and don't cost very much. Plus you'll have them forever and they're easier to store and move than cinder blocks. I have 4 sets of stands, two large and two small for a variety of projects, and I use them all the time--there's a set holding up the frame of my Buick at this very moment. I also have a big pile of cinder blocks from old projects, and the thought never even occurs to me to use them to hold up a car or truck. Too much can go wrong, especially when the correct tool for the job costs less than a tank of gas for the car you're trying to put in the air.

Please be safe!

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Many years ago, young and dumb my friend had his car on cement blocks and we opened the garage door the next day to a pile of crumbled blocks. I do have to admit that it was a few blocks stacked atop one another.

I have used single blocks as described in other postings but the day has come when I have an ample amount of jackstands. if I have to use a floor jack or jackstands outside it is best to place a steel plate 1/4" or thicker under the stands and I have a larger plate i'll put down to place the jack.

I was taught never to put my floor jack on the dirt and always have a solid foundation for it, a jack can twist if used on uneven or soft ground and become junk. When jacking with a floor jack either the vehicle or the jack has to be free to roll in order to keep the saddle of the jack from sliding off it's original lifting point.

For putting a car in the air for a long duration I have duplicated what they use in "U pull it Yards" I lay one wheel down and weld another wheel to it standing up this gives a solid base and with a wheel standing on top of it there is plenty of room underneath for removing parts. I have done this with parts cars and they are easy to work on and also easy for trimming around them with weed wacker or lawnmower.

Jay

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Guest billybird

I will not use cinder blocks. After working almost 30 years in an industral setting, I learned to be safe. Always use the right tool for the job. When it comes to getting under a vehicle, I always overkill on safety. I know I'm going to die; but it's probably not going to be from a car falling on me!

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Rule in our shop is NO ONE gets under a vehicle without jackstands AND a floor jack. Also, no one gets under a vehicle if they are alone in the shop. Concrete blocks are perfectly safe is on a level surface and topped witha 2x6. Visit any boat yard and you will see concrete blocks supporting boats much heavier than any of our cars.

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Thanks

The overwhelming sentiment is NO, so I will adjust this "support" method.

I mentioned that I will not get under it in any way. But even overkill jackstands are pricey. The issue with me is multiple cars. I have my 3 car garage filled with 3 restoration projects.

I own a nice set of overkill jackstands, I think they are 3 T each. But if I put them under this car then I don't have them for normal oil change service on my daily drivers.

If I buy another 8 I can't afford that right now frankly, they are what $40 a set of 2? That's $160 in jack stands and then in a few years when the cars are done - I have too many jack stands.

I did not know that I should be setting them the long horizontal way. They are currently the upright way, one each per point, in the back I have used a 2x4 spacer to make the back the same height as the front.

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I believe I would trust a concrete block over a Harbor Freight jackstand.

About 10-15 years ago Consumer Reports did a comparison test on jack stands. As I recall the worst performer failed at about 200% of it's rated capacity. The best performer held 1000%.

Also, as I recall, there was no corrolation between cost and perfromance relative to rating. Cheap brands were just as apt as expensive ones to overperform.:)

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I have too many jack stands.

Is there anybody reading this that hasn't bought a worse problem for more than $160?

If you're not working under the car, don't get the "overkill" jackstands. "Good enough" stands won't run you anywhere near $160.:)

Just make sure to provide them a strong, stable, & level base.

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Guest Silverghost

There is a thread on the AACA forum here where a fellow collector was crushed in an accident in his garage when piled wood blocks slipped.

His chest was badly crushed & his lungs brused, ribs cracked etc.

Read his story here on this site~

He was very lucky to have survived !

See what HE would do next time !

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Ask the local tree trimmer guy to cut some blocks for ya',,Soft wood is cheep,no good for firewood,,and the blocks are easier to handle,lighter,,Ive got 2 weeping willow/ blocks ive used for years,,lighter than the others,,Lean the white oak timber in the corner for those ugly jobs,,and lastly,,,they probably wont get stolen,,Smile,,Ben

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How easy it is,,,, On this past Friday,,2 men working on a road tractor[Freightliner],in a long garage bay,,long enough for 18 wheel rig,,Tractor ON jack stands,,tranny cumming out,,Trailer backs into end of bay,,,,,somehow doesn't stop,/ when it contacts the F'liner,,tractor rolls off the more than adequate stands and lands on floor,,One dude saw it comming and got out w/heavy abrasions,,and?? ,the other fellow will be out of hospital tomorrow we hope,,broken ribs and collarbone I think,,No speed or alcohol involved,,all at slow speed,,Real life on the first take,,,,,no replay,,Ben

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Guest Autoaddict

Jeez....Really??

Car wheel thieves have been using them for years in the 'hood!

Its not uncommon to see a pearled painted, Chrysler Magnum with cement blocks holding it up so that the "Rent a Wheel" repo guys can get their 22's back.....

Actually, want an easy, cheap way to store a car with no wheels or tires??

Use 6" X 6" X 30" cut timbers....or railroad tie. Place the blocks flat and length ways of the car and lower the rotors down on to the timber..(same as in the back unless its drum...then be sure to snug drum down with lugs before setting it down on timber). The low center of gravity (only 6" from ground) reduces any chance of car shifting and falling off them. The wood allows the car to sink just a bit into it which keeps the car from rolling.

Have had cars stored for many, many years with this exact set up.

Edited by Autoaddict (see edit history)
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There is a thread on the AACA forum here where a fellow collector was crushed in an accident in his garage when piled wood blocks slipped.

His chest was badly crushed & his lungs brused, ribs cracked etc.

Read his story here on this site~

He was very lucky to have survived !

See what HE would do next time !

Here it is:

http://forums.aaca.org/f115/car-fell-me-last-sunday-285857.html

Get some proper jack stands. Sell 'em when you no longer need 'em.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest windjamer
:D I yelled at the guys in my shop untill I was horse. GET A JACK STAND. Had one man refused to walk accross the floor to get a stand. I will only be a minute was his ans. when I yelled. I brought my camera in and put it near his bay,when he ask why I told him, so I can get a picture when a vech. falls on you and you lose a body part or your life. I want to send it to that stupid things I done program. Maby make a buck.:D
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Guest billybird
Obviously you have never been to the South or you would know by observation that concrete blocks can be used as jack stands :)

Yes, can be used but I would not recommend it for a long term solution

I have lived in a "one horse town" in the south all my life, and saw many dangerous chances people take. In the 60's I saw people work on cars with nothing holding it up but the bumper jack from the trunk! { the old unstable "click" type } now THATS dangerous. "Good Ole' Boys" can die too.

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I'm puzzled by the statement that "I can't afford jack stands". Seems to me you can't afford not to have jack stands. If the car falls on you, you wish you had spent that money on jackstands.

Kind of reminds me of the ad that had the "Pay now or pay later" motto about doing the right thing the first time even if it was going to cost more, or paying even more later :eek: when the cheap route didn't work. :D

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Guest Gary Hearn
Kind of reminds me of the ad that had the "Pay now or pay later" motto about doing the right thing the first time even if it was going to cost more, or paying even more later :eek: when the cheap route didn't work. :D

I believe that was the Fram Filter man....

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Kind of reminds me of the ad that had the "Pay now or pay later" motto about doing the right thing the first time even if it was going to cost more, or paying even more later :eek: when the cheap route didn't work. :D

I actually bought a 4 post lift because I wanted to work under a car, and I was not confident inmy ability to use jack stands properly. As I explained to people, eayh the lift was expensive, but I be glad to pay that money if the car ever fell on me. Of course it be to late then:)

I also see a similiar comment when people ask about liftss? Where's the cheapest lift I can buy. You never see the question asked "what is the safest lsit at a reasonable price".:eek:

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Does anyone use the old pit,,Local garage built one here, 3 years ago,,Its got wood covers for when its not in use, Never leaks,,and ya can use it when the power is out,,,,Ben

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Big chunks of wood work GREAT. I live next to a lumber mill and they sell slabwood and one day I saw they had some square chunks that they cut off the ends of a rail road tie job they were doing.... gathered up a dozen plus of those babies. Got some 4x8' chunks and some 6x6' chunks and several other sizes so no matter what the job I've got plenty of blocks. Probably bought 4 cubic feet of solid lumber/oak chucks for $10 that day.

I do like the tip to have some lighter chunks of wood around also... those oak chunks of mine will hold up a train but heck they are heavy.

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My 2 cents.... anyone who uses concrete blocks is nuts. Especialy old blocks that have laid out in the backyard for a while. When I was at the ripe old age of 12, I had a Model A Ford one ton truck blocked up for about 2 minutes. Turned my back and the blocks crumbled. Never did that again. It is my thought that up here in the North especially, water gets in discarded blocks and freezes durring the winter weakening them. I've seen Blocks so rotten that they would crumble just by standing on them. Never use Concrete blocks for anything other than what they are designed for. (Your house or garage foundation) sure they can hold up a house, but it takes many to do the job and the weight is distributed over distance. Dandy Dave!

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