Dave@Moon

Thanks! I was getting conflicting information from suppliers and other sources. It'll be some time before we're looking into a switch but I needed to get the harness started asap..

I am putting together a wiring harness for a customer's 1929 Packard 640 roadster project. The car came in with Pilot Ray lamps, but the original wiring harness was so cobbled as to be useless in trying to trace what was originally there. Can someone please tell me how these lights were normally wired in when installed at the dealer? Did they have a separate switch, or were they wired to the cowl lights and/or headlamps? Thanks!

I found this mistitled listing in the Desert Valley Auto Parts web site: http://www.dvap.com/salvage/1972-sunbeam-72su1672d/ It's of course not a "1972 Sunbeam", and likely hasn't been noticed by many.

In 1960 they offered a low-compression (9:1) 364 with thicker head gaskets and a Stromberg WW2 carb. It was standard with a manual, but an option with the Twin Turbine. As an option I think it was called the 375E motor, but I heard it more commonly called the "export engine" because overseas fuels frequently didn't have the octane to support 10.5:1 compression in 1960 and therefore that's what was sold for export order. I went to 4 Nationals and the Flint 100th Anniversary Meet and only ever saw 2 other cars with this engine, one at a local show. I loved it. It performed more than adequately, and still got as much a 17 mpg on regular gas without pinging.

Thanks to all! It's pretty much a foregone conclusion that I'll be buying these individually. I do still live in Cincinnati. I'm now the Parts Manager for a large restoration garage ( Benhase Restorations, http://www.benhasecarrestorations.com/ ). The car is one of our customer's, here for a restoration estimate. A 1960 LeSabre white convertible with red interior, it has an export engine just like my old white hardtop with grey interior that I sold in 2008. Deja Vu doesn't get much stronger!

Except this one's a V12. Were there more than one engine types?

Thanks! The only set specifically for the Nailhead that I can find is this one: https://alloyboltz.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1176 , which are somehow both stainless and Grade 8. I notice that they are all the same size as well. We will need new bolts for this engine. Is there a source that sells a kit, or do we have to buy them individually.

Of course I meant a 364 cubic in. engine, not 368. Sorry!

I'm looking for a set of exhaust manifold bolts fro a 1960 368 engine. All I've been able to find so far are sets that fit the 401-425 motor (with no near designated). Does anyone know if those bolts are the same? If not is there a source or size I should look for instead?

I have yet to hear anyone from a position of influence or authority in this hobby (SEMA or anyone else) advocate anything but a constant, and as yet (and hopefully for the future) fruitless, lobbying for the abandonment of all fuels programs save expanded fossil fuel consumption. At this point it should be pretty obvious to everyone that that is just not going to happen. I'm hoping I've missed something, but I've yet to see anything proposed that will protect both old cars and the environment coming from our representatives. We probably have another 10 or so years where e10 is still plentiful enough to reliably tour and travel in an antique. That's not much time to develop and implement a program whereby you can still drive your 1975 Chevy or 1925 Willys. Beyond that it looks to me that appropriate fuels get fewer and further between, with web sites needed to find them and fuel deserts that need to be avoided. And it can only get worse from there.

EP Proposal Would Open the Floodgates to Ethanol Blended Fuels Above e15 , 10/5/16, HMN Now will somebody please start lobbying for access to low-ethanol and/or non-renewable fuels for registered antique cars before it's too late? It's a matter of time when even e10 is no longer available from currently legal (road taxed) sources. Even if blend pumps (the intended outcome, and an almost certain eventuality) are implemented, there's no assurance that e10 will survive as an option. It may be possible to save it as a higher price option, that would discourage it's use in vehicles where it's not needed. Something has to be done. In the larger scheme of things "pump gas" isn't going to be gas much longer. Or are people going to continue to insist that modern cars run on antique fuels indefinitely, just for us (as if that's going to work)?

Oh yeah. There is a large spacer (fixed, ~3/8" thick) that's supposed to be there behind the starter to adapt to the automatic's flex plate. That was obtained and installed, but there is still another "spacer" behind the flex plate on this engine (although it goes by another name, adaptor I think). Without it the howl from starting is terrible. I found a used one and it's being delivered as I type this. It should answer the issues we're having. Thanks for your help!

Does anyone know if a 345 V8 needs a spacer between the flexplate and crankshaft. If so is there a part number I should look for? (The flexplate is an NOS piece that was installed and did not change the problem.) This is for a 1967 Travelall that has had a 727 Torqueflite from a later model IHC installed at some time in the past, and there are issues with starter alignment. Thanks!

Thanks Jeff. I sent them an email. We're getting an absurd number of offers from people I've never heard of, almost all of them the same amount. so any help we can get is needed to pick from them. It's harder to trust someone else's car to an unknown than your own.

Has anyone had a good experience with a transporter shipping to/from Alaska? I am tasked with shipping a car to the Anchorage area from Cincinnati, and none of the carriers I am familiar with (mainly from Hemmings ads) ship to AK. So far I am only getting responses from brokers whose companies I do not recognize.