Friartuck

http://old-carburetors.com/ Has some literature on Strombergs.

Try powering the gauge assembly off a separate 12 volt battery with the engine running. This will narrow down the culprit as either a noise conducted interference or as radiated interference. If it operates properly on a separate battery, then its a conducted interference problem and some filtering on the power leads may solve the problem using capacitors and possibly an inductor. If it doesn't operate properly interference may be entering the power leads. Using a braid around the power leads may also be a solution. The Cobalt brand you mentioned may be better because its a better design that shields the interference (conducted or radiated). Just my $.02 worth

Restoration Supply in Escondido, Calf (http://www.restorationstuff.com) also carries an assortment of threaded clevis yokes and pins. Page 47 of their 2014 catalog.

Hershey in the Fall is always the week-weekend before Columbus Day. Admission to flea market fields is free, but parking is currently at $10 per vehicle.

Lift the Dot is a different shape post. I believe these are called Cinch brand top fasteners. Available from Snyders: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/modeltparts/opencartops This document offers a wealth if info: http://www.antiqueautotophardware.com/Identifying%20Antique%20Fasteners.pdf LeBaron-Bonney also offers Cinch if that is the correct fastener: https://www.lebaronbonney.com/cart/products.php?Cc=FAS12&page=2

Brad took over for his father Gerald who passed a few years ago. He runs the business as best he can and he's on the road for his primary job and sometimes doesn't process orders for a couple of weeks. Be patient. I've found that Email works best for Brad. The address I have is: blandoll@hotmail.com I too have ordered from them and very satisfied with the products. I bought early and stuck them on a shelf till I need them next year.

Are you sure the float has not become porous and submerging? Old brass floats sometimes permit gas to permeate through the brass metal. A gas compatible coating can cure this.

There is a special welding rod from Muggyweld (http://www.muggyweld.com) that can handle cast iron repair. Note/review the instructions and videos carefully, the back stitch method is not common. Understand the difference between clean and dirty cast iron and use the right rod. A professional welder maybe more in order than the machine shop. Just my $0.02 worth.

Could this cover be cast using low melting alloys from rotometals or cerro alloys? Make the casting halves in Plaster of Paris which should hold up for 5-10 castings. If you still want to make a die, Kirksite??

All good comments here. I'll add look into radiant concrete floor heating. Given you're in upstate NY, use the 2 inch thick 250 PSI rigid sheets laid down with ship lap joints. Its a special order. Beware the sheets at the big box stores are the 150 PSI rating. That will crush under the concrete and vehicle loads. Insist on using the right insulation. Also use vertical sheets against the inside of the foundation. Zip tie the 1/2 inch PEX to the reinforcing wire, not stapled to the insulation. Even if you don't use PEX and the radiant route, still insulate to ensure the slab doesn't become a wick to pull out the heat. PM me for additional info.

Documenting this thread for other viewers. This turned out to be not such an easy question and answer. The original belt is a victim of obsolescence, so for the purposes of documenting a replacement fan belt for model L Lincoln, I offer the following information: The Gates 372 is 1 inch wide, 9/16 inch thick, and 39 inches long at the outer circumference. It actually has a National Stock Number (NSN): 3030-00-269-9704. A DAYCO 28345 (20A0875??) is 7/8 inch wide and 35.25 inches long. Its shorter than the original, but since its narrower and rides lower in the pulley, the shorter length may not be a problem. Earlier manufactured DAYCO 28345 belts are smooth whereas newer ones seem to have a ribbed outside (not suitable for a show car). A Gates 822 is 1 inch wide and 36 inches long which maybe too short, but its available from truck parts suppliers. A C36 is 7/8 inch wide and 40 inch long. The C36 was shown as available from: http://www.tractorjoe.com Its used in agriculture, not automotive. While the C36 is slightly longer, it maybe within range of the fan's adjustment. NAPA was not able to list any suitable replacement.

Does anyone have a favorite source for Vintage fan belts? Looking for a replacement for a Gates 372T. Description/Dimensions: Vee Belt, 1 inch wide at the top, 9/16 inch thick, and 39 inch outer diameter. This is for a model L Lincoln.

Here are the results of using Electrolysis cleaning method for a portable generator gas tank that had water/rust build up over a 6 month period. The solution used was a scoopful of Arm and Hammer soda washing detergent and hot water with 6 amps from a battery charger over an eight hour period. The closer the Anode is to the rusted area, the better the results. In this case the tank was the negative Cathode, and the Anode was a piece of flat cold rolled steel suspended inside the tank. As for a container to immerse the engine block, Rubber Maid offers large 20" X 40" Totes from Home Depot/Lowes for less than $20. If larger is needed, make/use a wooden box and line it with a tarp. Doesn't get much cheaper than this.

I've experienced mixed results with ultrasonic cleaners. I'm not convinced they're all that great. That said, I do use the cleaner from Harbor Freight (kept the $$ investment low) and use Simply Green and vinegar mix solution. hot solution yields better results.

Two tips: 1) occasionally place your finger over the blasting gun's tip to force air down the suction tube to break up the grit in the lower cabinet, and 2) consider reducing the suction a little to not draw out all the airborne grit. Add small amount of tape over the vacuum inlet, possibly some course steel wool in the vacuum hose, or limit the air inlet into the cabinet. These have worked for me.

Hudson33 asks a good question, can you electroplate directly onto glass? If not I know you can powder coat glass and maybe that can be used as an intermediate layer to nickel plate before sending to UVIRA. Maybe substitute the glass reflector with a metal one. Perhaps ask Bill Atwood at UVIRA. He knows his business better than any of us.

Nickel plate the reflectors and send to Uvira in Oregon.

Are the original manifolds that damaged that they can't be welded back together using the cast iron rod from Muggyweld?

You might try autocolorlibrary.com They don't list Chrysler, but suggest calling for the IM number.

Agree with Restorer32, acquire flat stock from a vendor such as Speedymetals, http://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx Mill out the shape, drill the two holes, bend the curve, mill out the oval slot, sand, and polish.

Forum user OLDCAR is Bernie in Australia. Bernie used a lip seal in his 1921 Packard project water pump. Contact him directly and I'm sure he'll have the drawing that he used. Also contact http://www.transbearing.net/ for seals.

The threaded rivet (or sometimes called slotless screw) are available in round and truss head in popular machine screw sizes. Restoration Supply seems to have the most variety to suit the needs. Stainless when polished resembles nickel/almost chrome like. Suggest cutting a slot across the tip of the threaded portion using a thin Dremel cutoff wheel and hold the rivet with a small flat blade screwdriver while using a small box wrench to tighten the nut.

Beltfed is correct. The bulb with tubing and the gauge need to be treated (calibrated) as a single pair. This article sums up the procedure nicely. You must use Ethel Alcohol as the solution and immerse the bulb into a ice water salt solution to lower the bulb's temp while the capillary tubing is soldered onto the gauge. Calibration is tricky and you must use Ethel and no other alcohol. You might need to use a small syringe to inject the Ethel into the tubing. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge As for the faceplate, scan the original, touch up using a graphics program, print onto color laser paper (aka high quality photo) and adhere to the gauge. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public2/faceplate.cfm Tell us how this turned out. Post photos if you can.

Try the coin test. Hold a nickel with the edge on the surface at a 30-45 degree angle away from the surface. If its safety glass with two layers, you should see double reflections.

"Temperature Gauge Guy" 172 Laurel Hill Dr. South Burlington, VT 05403 (802) 862-6374