Friartuck

Here in the states, there are two suppliers 1) McMaster-Carr. They have some brushes that might fit or close enough to be sanded to fit: http://www.mcmaster.com/#motor-brushes/=t680hr and 2) Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=motor+brushes though Grainger seems more motor/brand specific. There's also a person on this Discussion Forum (http://forums.aaca.org/member.php?u=68346) who rebuilds starters and generators. He would likely have an inventory of brushes close enough where some sanding should work: Jason Advanced Electrical Rebuilders jason@aerrebuild.com www.aerrebuild.com

Write/Email to the AACA Library for scanned copies of literature like manuals, service notices, and advertisements which may reveal important details. Chris Ritter is the POC at the Library.

A phrase that seems to fit here: There's never enough time or patience to do it right the first time, but there is the second time around. Yank the unit and do it right.

Has anyone considered or used the Electrolysis method for rust removal? Virtually pennies per gallon and can use containers like spackle buckets for small parts and garbage cans for large parts.

I didn't see this mentioned, so I'll bring it up. Consider mounting the winch on a Trailer square tube and mounting a receiver onto the trailer. That way the winch can be used on the trailer or on the back of the tow vehicle.

Mark, A couple of things. 1. You might check out http://www.garagejournal.com That Forum is much like this one dedicated to garage/shop ideas, experiences. They have sections on flooring, heating, lighting, layout. Also there fabrication category gets some interesting posts. 2. It depends on your situation. Here in very condensed NJ, you learn to use every bit of shop real estate to your advantage. For me, if it doesn't have to be in the detached garage, then it goes into the basement shop. Band saw, radial arm saw, combo lathe milling head, drill press, stationary belt sander, layout table in the middle. The table saw stays in the garage as the pieces cut are usually too large to work on in the basement. In my garage is the vertical compressor with air lines running back into the basement, that way I can use pneumatic tools down there. Also in the basement is the bead blast cabinet. Think about how equipment will be used. Keeping certain areas clean may be a challenge, hence dust collection maybe in order.

I had a 1929 Seth Thomas electric repaired by the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Penn. The museum and NAWCC takes on projects such as this: http://www.nawcc.org/

The article on using threaded rivets for trunk hardware has been republished: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/threaded-rivets-1.cfm

The Lincoln Service bulletin lists a higher viscosity (110 weight) oil for summer driving and lower (90 weight) for winter. What weight oil did you use? Could you substitute/top it off with 600 W steam oil?

Classic and Exotic also has SW gaskets, etc: http://www.classicandexotic.com/store/c-366-stewart-warner.aspx

Do a Google search under 6 volt LED Auto Bulbs and several vendors are listed. This is but one: http://classicautobulbs.com/6volt.html

Try L&L Auto Trim in Missouri: Brad Landoll took over the company that his father started: http://www.runningboardmetaltrim.com/

This article maybe of interest in restoring your trunk: http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_06_winter.pdf I'm in the process of updating it, so be patient. As for covering, consider vinyls and other coverings from a book binding source like Gane Brothers.

I researched this subject about two years ago and found the Forum at Garage Journal (http://www.garagejournal.com/) had an extensive number of posts and experiences from a wide range of users. A number of factors were listed, surface preparation being the most important (A virgin floor with no previous coating having the most success). As I recall Epoxy Coat came out on top, unlike some others which reportedly would peel in a few years: http://www.epoxy-coat.com/

Its called armored cable. Your calling it shielded wire will confuse vendors/suppliers when asking for it.

I like Kwik Poly (www.kwikpolyllc.com) as a wood preservative. It has a low viscosity to penetrate wood fibers and won't build up like an epoxy. Kwik Poly has a pot life of a couple of minutes after mixing, so working in small batches and quickly is in order. Use acid brushes as they are cheap and disposable.

All these suggestions will help clean the tank of Gooo and debris. Another step to pull rust out is Electrolysis, which uses direct current and sodium carbonate solution to deposit the rust from the rusty peice (Cathode) onto a steel Anode (like a peice of Rebar). In this case, treat the metal tank as the Cathode, fill with sodium carbonate solution and add the Annode inside the tank making sure it does not come in contact with the tank. Use insulators on the tips and whatever other means specific to your situation. Clean the Anode often about once per hour. Exercise care that Electrolysis produces gases and venting is needed and disconnect the direct current at the source to prevent sparks. POR has a line of cleaners and tank sloshing sealers.

I have good success using Seafoam in both the fuel system and the crankcase. My suggestion is run a high concenration in the fuel system in fresh gas until they free up and normal concentration in the engine oil. Add gas to the tank to the normal concentration once they free up. Kindly report back on what you did and what worked.

Matt, I would suggest verifying the reliablity of the 12 volt source going to the coil/ignition system. Either have a seperate wire from that terminal to a VOM in the car while its running and observe what happens when it dies. I suspect ignition switch terminals getting hot and intermittantly making contact (hence when you restart the car you move the switch's internal terminals). Attack this as process of elimination like you've been doing by perhaps providing a reliable voltage source like a temporary seperate key switch from battery to the ignition terminal. Melanie really needs to get back into her Mustang! I see that you replaced the ignition switch, but that doesn't confirm the wiring from that to the ignition system or the reliablility of the source to the switch.

This may be of interest: http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_07_summer.pdf

One could do a search on the Patent database. Unfortunately Patents issued prior to 1970's cannot be searched using keywords like manufacturer or name, etc. If you find it, the patent will likely reveal the operating principle. If you find the patent number you could pull that up from the datebase. Note of caution, depending on your browser and applications on your computer, you may have to download an image viewer suitable for looking at .TIFF images. The patent site explains how to do this. http://patft.uspto.gov/

sambarn is on the right track: Distributor caps of the 20's and 30's is an entire category. Possibly cast iron intake and exhaust manifolds of the same period for various Marques.

If military, maybe a gauge that was used in a high vibration vehicle like an APC where a needle type gauge might fail.

Owen_Dyneto is correct on his recomendation. Installing the switch is a matter of good engineering mounting rather than polarity of the cable. Use good quality round lugs for the size cable (1 or 2 Ott) and stud size of the switches terminals and solder it after crimping. The switch's location is of importance for convienance to twist the switch on-off and ask yourself, can anything touch these terminals and potentially short out/damage the car. The location may dictate the selection of the cable you choose. Ask yourself, if the car were involved in an accident, could sheet metal be forced into the switch's terminals and cause damage? And as stated, if a wrench fell, would it also be a source to cause a short.

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