Friartuck

I once had a cast iron problem and I turned to Muggy Weld for specialized welding rods. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/welding-cast-iron-1.cfm See their #77 for clean cast iron and #72 welding rods for dirty cast iron (high carbon content as found on exhaust manifolds). http://www.muggyweld.com/ Take the time to watch their videos. I did preheat the part a little even though they claim you don't need to. If you look far enough into the cast iron page articles, you'll see my water pump repair. Have a trained welder do the job and have him understand the recommended technique (called back stitch) and suggest getting a scrap manifold from a junk yard and practice on that before tacking the real manifold. Is spending $75 for specialized rods worth it to you?

A few comments not already mentioned. The cutout is a relay that utilizes the generator's output to pull the internal contacts together and make the connection from the generator to the battery. As mentioned, the generator's charge rate is usually done by adjusting the third brush. The battery's charge level has no effect on the cutout operation. If there is intermittent operation, it could be connection related. Check the wire connections and the ground. If the cap is removable, do so and while the engine is at fast idle use an insulated dowel (like a pencil) and manually close the contacts. The contacts should remain closed. This would be the point where the generator is producing enough voltage to keep the relay closed, but not enough to overcome the spring tension to pull them closed. You may have to manually adjust the spring tension with needle nose pliers to a lighter tension to get the contacts to close under lower RPM (i.e. lower output voltage). What is baffling is that it would work for some appreciable period like 15 minutes and then cease. I'm wondering if there is another problem like maybe there is a circuit breaker in the system or the cutout has a thermal switch that overrides. Cutouts operation is usually fool proof since there is just a relay. Can you post a picture of the generator and cutout as its mounted in the car? 1. Clean the Cutout's contacts with very fine sandpaper (600 grit) or crocus cloth. Even a new unit out of the box may have residual debris. 2. If this Cutout is mounted directly on the generator, check screw connections such as under the mounting tabs which are the ground. 3. Monitor the voltage level with a Volt-Ohm-Meter (VOM) at the input of the Cutout which is the generator's output. Note the voltage level where the cutout closes. Note the level when the cutout ceases to verify that the generator was still producing voltage. This would verify or eliminate the cutout as the problem. 4. When you do get this charging system working reliably, Run the engine at fast idle (e.g. 1200 RPM) and with all lights on adjust the third brush so that the current is about 1 amp. This is intended to run the lights and ignition at night while not draining the battery and not over charge the battery during day time driving.

Wanted, Brass threaded Knurled Cap as pictured. This was used on accessory Gas, Oil and Water running board can set called Boyco. These three same size canteen style containers were held in a cradle and mounted to the running board to carry these liquids. Cap is 1 1/4 inch Outside Diameter, Diamond knurl, 3/8 inch high and approx 31/32 inch diameter Inside Diameter. It has 27 threads per inch. Contact Jules Baron directly at (732) 221-0269 (NJ).

Thought this post on another site provides some numerical data to compare: http://starship.org/Bugsby/Adventures/2009/Radiator-Flow2/Radiator-Flow2.php A 1924 Kissel radiator was measured at 13.5 Gallons Per Minute (GPM).

Why can't this a 1911 model 30 Cadillac body? Just my $.02...

You’re not the first to mention difficulty in reaching Brad Landoll at L&L. Some history. Brad’s father Gerald started the company and passed on in about 2010. Brad has been trying to work the business remotely from his home about an hour’s drive away. Brad travels for his job which complicates matters. Email is the best method. Gerald Landoll made up some unique cutting patterns and made exact trim profiles for many vehicles and as far as I know no one else has these patterns. Brad is trying his best to meet customer’s needs. I’m not sure if Brad is just selling off the already made inventory or if he still makes new trim. Be patient. The email I have for Brad is: blandoll@hotmail.com If things have changed then I wouldn't know.

You mention the problem of getting access to the inside area. Could you make a long tool with a point and curls that could be used to seat the split rivet ends? Use in conjunction with someone holding a heavy hammer or body dolly on the domed side of the rivet (welt) (like a bucking bar) and seat the split rivet with this tool from the inside. The curled edges would spread the ends against the inside. Just a simple suggestion.

I have replaced the original bearings with sealed versions on a 1930 DELCO (model 193C) Starter-Generator for a Lincoln and they work fine as a sealed bearing. Don't touch them. Leave the oil cup on for decoration.

When considering systems for gate and garage operation, mandate Rolling Code controllers. Remote controls send signals in code. When the sending code is the same as the code which is expected by the receiver, then the receiver will actuate the relay, unlock the door, or open the barrier. Remote controls with a fixed code always send the same fixed code. Remote controls with a rolling code (or hopping code) always send out a different code from the one previously sent.

Yes this chart is helpful. Thanks for sharing.

Boiling it out at a radiator shop would be the easiest. If one is not available near you and you're up for a simple challenge, these two articles may help you: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/electrolytic-rust-removal.cfm http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/gas-tank-cleaning-1.cfm

You might look into a type of tape called Gaffers Tape. Its black and cloth based and used in the film industry to tape down cables and wires during a photo shoot.

These folks maybe able to help: http://www.nawcc.org/

A replacement honeycomb is going to be expensive. If boiling out at a commercial shop is not an option, may I suggest cleaning using the Electrolysis method. Use a kids wading pool, large Rubber Maid tub/trash can or similar large container and Arm and Hammer Washing Soda and DC current electricity. Two articles on this topic: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/electrolytic-rust-removal.cfm http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/gas-tank-cleaning-1.cfm I would try this before spending $3K (or more) for a new radiator. The bottom of the household hot water heater should be fitted with a 3/4 inch hose valve to obtain a stead supply of hot water to flush. Back flush from the bottom. The down side is you may uncover some leaks which can be repaired. Is 2-3 days of your time worth saving this expense? And in full disclosure, I wrote the second article and have personally applied this method for difficult problems.

I don't know exact numbers, but a difference of only 10 degrees from top to bottom of the radiator sounds like a small amount. I would expect something like a minimum of 30-40 degrees difference. In doing the infrared measurements were the edges of the radiator higher than the center. To me that might indicate blockages in the side passages. Have you had the radiator professionally boiled out? Either insufficient air is not getting through the radiator and/or blockages are preventing the heat from dissipating. Also, suggest retorgueing the cylinder head to ensure some minor compression isn't getting into the circulation system. The 177 at the bottom and 150 at the water pump inlet is suspicious, how could it drop that much?

Additional Info on threaded rivets for headlight buckets, trunk hardware, and other appications. Tioga Stainless (http://tiogastainless.com/) carries round and truss head threaded rivets in sizes ranging from 4-40 to 1/4 inch. Totally stainless (http://www.totallystainless.com) has them for 6-32, 8-32, and 10-32, for round and truss head styles.

King Seeley parts and service is available from Classic and Exotic Service: http://www.classicandexotic.com/store/c-85-king-seeley-hobson-fuel-gauge.aspx You can also purchase fluid at Early Ford V-8 suppliers such as MAC's Auto Parts. Hydrostatic gauges were used on 32-35 Fords.

I believe the EE-22 is used on 32-33 Lincoln KB.