Friartuck

Suggest using an infrared thermometer (a nice noninvasive test) while it is idling. Check outlet and inlet temps (difference) and check for hot spots on the radiator. At least you'll get an idea of what you are buying.

Article on face plates: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public2/faceplate.cfm

http://old-carburetors.com/1927-Dykes.htm Suggest you edit the Subject Line to something more appropriate so when people do searches, it will come up.

What about casting in stainless?

I believe the Brad referred to here is Brad Landoll. Brad's late father Gerald started L&L auto trim in Missouri (L&L Alum Trim. Brad has been doing his best to accommodate customer needs while managing family and career. Basically he's been selling off inventory. I thought he was making up some trim if needed, but perhaps not. The PDF catalog shows the shape (profile) as #164. He likely has the forms and dies to make the #164 trim for the 1926 Caddy. #163 is close though. JC Boutin, did Brad say he's not willing to make any more #164? What would it take to motivate Brad to do a short run of #164? Perhaps if you know of 2 or 3 other 1924-1927 Caddy owners also needing #164 that maybe enough motivation for Brad to do a run.

Jeff, Google is your friend: http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?viewmode=compact&topic_id=2442&forum=1 A company or someone is likely to make parts where there is a lot of demand, like Ford. You may have to make parts for your project. Find a machinist in your part of the world and become good friends with him (and determine his favorite adult beverage). LoL.

31 Caddy reported on another thread success with Advanced Electrical Rebuilders in Michigan. Perhaps Jason will sell you the needed part. http://www.aerrebuild.com/ Be patient with Jason, apparently it takes him some time to return phone calls and emails.

ply33 is correct. You must first have the reflectors nickel plated and then sent to Uvira. Bill Atwood, President of Uvira is a car guy and offers the coating to the car community. I did both my main head lights and the cowl lamps.

I too have used Coast2Coast Coast to Coast in Central NJ

My Time with Dick Hopeman It began with a single photograph on the cover of a Restoration Tools catalog. Emerging from an old style arched garage door was a green model L Lincoln Touring. I was excited that a Touring may be near me to aid in the restoration of my Type 177 Touring as I knew the Tool company was located near me in Pennsylvania. The Tool company would not reveal the owner of the vehicle or location of where the photo was taken, but some further research finally solved the mystery. I was owned by Dr. Richard Hopeman. Dick was a professor at VillanovaUniversity having transferred from Syracuse in New York a few years earlier. The building in the photograph was the Great Stone Barn (GSB), a location in a suburb outside of Philadelphia. After several emails and some phone calls I finally got an invite for an afternoon at the GSB. The barn itself is a car collector’s dream, an old style stone and masonry building built into the side of a hill and deserves a detailed description. It was customary in that region to build into a hill or massive mound to utilize the terrain for access to the upper floors. At the first floor (base level) was the garage shop entrance (and those four arched doors). Dick had the area segregated into areas for storage and shop work. Winding your way up the hill got you to the second floor area where a solid barn style sliding wooden door provided access to the second floor storage area. The sturdy wood floor was supported by heavy timbers below and was more than adequate for this additional car storage area. This second floor area represented half of the GSB’s 60 X 150 foot footprint. The other half on the second floor was the living space. A truely open design, it began at one end (above the arched doors) with a master bedroom and one guest room which connected to an open kitchen with a single island running lengthwise. Just past the kitchen was the dining area with a circular oak table and country style chairs. This flowed into a living & sitting area complete with an impressive 4 X 6 stone fireplace at the end wall. Above the fireplace was a complete collection of the Lincoln Bird series by illustrator Stark Davis. The entire long wall of this open floor plan was lined with vertically oriented casement windows which provided a virtually unobstructed view of the GSB’s lower meadow and the neighbors rolling fields, typical of that region of Pennsylvania. Between the living room area and the car storage area of the second floor was a glass panel where Dick could play on the baby grand piano all the while admiring his Lincoln Touring through the glass room divider. The third floor loft was where Dick matted and displayed his automotive art work. My visit to the GSB launched an over two decade period of friendship where Dick often encouraged me to investigate and document Lincoln matters on authenticity. My creating an hour long documentary on the history of Henry Leland was prompted by Dick which included him introducing me to the book, Master of Precision. Dick was instrumental in allowing my upholstery trimmer and I access to his Touring for shapes, pattern orientations and other finish details when creating and installing my Touring’s upholstery. The absolute gem was Dick laying out the side curtails on the kitchen center island and allowing us to measure and photograph each panel. While he will be missed, I prefer to remember him by continuing my contributions to the Hobby, AACA and the LOC’s Fork & Blade in the way of articles and sharing information. Chris Wantuck Red Bank, NJ

I did a search on B&S years ago and came up basically empty. Even contacted the Wyandotte Library and Historical group. The B&S factory was in Wyandotte, Michigan and made generic trunks for auto and wardrobe units for passengers on cruise ships and suitcases. Lincoln used them starting in 1932. Their one unique signature was the scalloped molding on the side giving a dimensional look. Attached is an emblem I found which you can reproduce. I'm about to publish a simple way to make brass emblems, plaques and stencils. I'll send the link once its published. I suggest making your own trunk out of cabinet grade plywood and attach piano hinges and hardware using the threaded rivet method. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/threaded-rivets-1.cfm Cover it in book binding grade vinyl which is thin to fold around edges and corners..

Could I get some thoughts on locating a condenser not close to the points? This dual point DELCO distributor is in the front of the engine and the two coils are on the inside of the firewall, some 36 inches of wire away. The condensers are mounted below the point plate which make it a pain to replace. A quick fix in the past has been to hang generic condensers on the 6 volt coil wires outside of the distributor body which looks horrible. Any prediction on attaching the condenser on the coil end. How much does that 36 inch wire make on condenser performance on the points?

My suggestion relies on friction contact with the flywheel rather than a belt. No clutch needed and alignment is not as critical. Perhaps find a motor and gear reduction box assembly and adapt it using the same pivot - friction method.

That's Fowl!! Filler on top of poultry fabric was several layers of poly filler topped with cotton batting. Vinyl was left in the hot sun and pulled tight front-to-back and then side-to-side. Staples were stainless. A more important question is how to finish between the cloth material and the metal roof.....A rubber Tee molding, or urethane? This top project stapled into a wooded edge and used 3M 5200 with nice round bead in the gap.

I can safely recommend Everlast Auto Interiors on St George Ave in Linden, NJ to handle this task.

I use Gardner Westcott in Michigan http://gardner-westcott.com/ for chrome plated and stainless hardware. They list slotted oval screws up to 5/16-24. FYI, they also offer Round, Flat, Truss, Pan, & Filister head types. Pictured is G-W page 30 of their catalog. Tioga Stainless also offers multiple head styles in coarse and fine thread. Their website does not do them justice, ask for a catalog to be emailed to you. http://tiogastainless.com/

Here in the States some of us use 600W Steam oil. Available from Mobil Oil. https://www.grainger.com/product/MOBIL-600-W-Super-4DNJ6

I have used PC7 with good success. PC7 Paste type of epoxy. I like Joe P's idea of using the threaded stud, but one possible problem is the stud length. If the purpose is to go through a radiator, perhaps a Tee nut or regular nut epoxied and use a threaded rod cut to length.

In the past, Gas Tank Renu has refused to apply their process to tanks with baffles that they can't get to. Not a problem for 60's-70's era tanks. See photo 4 of the above article.

Those of us with older vehicles that use wide fan belts, a company that offers a line of 7/8 inch wide belts that are smooth on the inside and outside surfaces is PIX. Gates and Dayco offer some belts in the wider sizes, but are now being manufactured with ribs on the inside (not exactly authentic looking for a show car). Brand: PIX Smallest size is C-31, 7/8 inch wide, 31 inch ID, 35 inch OD. Other sizes up to 40 inch and longer. Available from: Beardslee Transmission Equipment 27-22 Jackson Avenue Long Island City, NY 11101 (718) 784-4100 Website: Beardslee Transmission - PIX Distributor The picture is of a C-33 belt on a model L Lincoln and the lettering will come off with a wire wheel and some lacq. thinner.

Boil out at a local radiator shop if you can find one. Alternative is Electrolysis. It is cheap and takes several days with periodic cleaning of the anode. Article on Electrolysis for cleaning gas tanks Rinse with Muriatic acid.

Do you have a good ground (strap) between the engine and firewall? Possible that dropping it in gear shifts/moves the drive line enough to disturb the ground? If you have +12 V to the coil, the other part is the ground needed by the points? Just my $.02.

Speedy Metals also offers 3/16 in cold rolled 1018: http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8227-category.aspx?thickness=0.1875

I think this says it all, bottom of Rad is nearly the temp at top. Have Radiator professionally boiled and flushed.

Part time from 2003-2011, more or less full time since 2011. About one year to go.