Friartuck

How about asking the source where you purchased the rubber mating?? I would investigate a thicker type of adhesive, one where it can be troweled or rolled onto the surfaces. Perhaps a mastic adhesive?? Keep in mind, this will get hot in the sun. The above surface prep sound reasonable.

A few thoughts. I assume the double contact is for a double filament bulb. Use 1154 bulbs with 15d bayonet sockets soldered in place. Several companies carry 15d sockets to include local auto staores. Consider Brillman Company in VA or Narragansett Reproductions in RI. You'll have to be creative here and likely have to trade off for straight connectors.

I'm going to add my $.02 here. This picture of my 3rd brush assembly maybe easier to follow. The 3rd brush is the one on top. It should have a means to secure the entire arm against the case without shorting it out. In the below example, the third brush assembly is on a plate that pivots around the bearing.

Maybe I missed something, but this was on the list. It is 36 inches wide and 72 inches long, 8 ribs per inch. https://www.metrommp.com/?f=type_detail&ModelNumber=M 1-3672&Type=Running Board%2FFloor Mat Good to know about Sherban for future problems, ere make that challenges.

Have you checked with Metro Molded Rubber: https://www.metrommp.com/?f=part_list_by_type&Type=Running Board%2FFloor Mat Sizes and rib dimensions would be helpful.

Agree with hchris comments. Generator seems like its working properly. If you have or know of someone, put a Volt Ohm Meter in series and check for unexpected current draw with ignition and headlights off.

The third brush assembly moves in an "arc like" manner over the copper commutator. What you are actually doing is moving the 3rd brush in relationship to the ground brush (180 degrees opposite to the 3rd brush). Move it in small increments. A good adjustment value is to be about zero amps (fast idle) on the ammeter with the head lights on (generator produces enough current to operate the head lights and ignition). That should be about 7-8 amps with the lights off. The intent here is not to cook the battery during normal daylight driving.

Jim, Your lengthening the cable should not effect the generator's performance. The only time it might be a problem is when starting. Bring the generator and cut out to the rebuilder and have him inspect and/or rebuild it. When you reinstall it, adjust the 3rd brush output with the head lights on (max load) and adjust for zero output. This should be about 8-9 amps output with the lights off or "par" with them on. The goal here is to not overcharge the battery when you normally drive the car (presumably during daylight).

Has anyone ever done Hydroforming in a home brew fashion? If so, what was used as the chamber (enclosure)? Looking to make a sheet metal cover that was probably stamped. The female die is fairly easy to make using Plaster of Paris which should pick up the ridge detail of this part. The wide throat on the left should be easy. There is a high ridge on the right that needs to be captured. Cover is .040 thick brass.

Quite satisfied with Darryl's: http://www.darrylsplates.com/

I like Curti's suggestion. I was never fond of putting holes into something unless absolutely necessary.

In essence a Growler tester produces the magnetic fields that are found in a generator or starter armature. It simulates how the armature would perform under normal conditions. Initially a rebuilder does this test first when diagnosing a unit for repair. It can test for either short or open circuits inside. It produces a lot of energy to perform this test where a multimeter can't help. Its more common for the field coils to be the problem, hence why most folks like 31 Caddy gambled to trying to rebuild this on his own. Armatures don't always go bad and when they do, its usually quite expensive (labor intensive) to repair an armature. If an armature is so rare, you may not have a choice.

Every once in a while you've got to be creative in this hobby. This was filling the Steering Box with the Penrite Steering Box lubricant that has the viscosity of STP or Molasses. The syringe is used to marinade a turkey for deep frying. I knew I could use the large rubber band somewhere. Each syringe full took about an hour. Sometimes you've got do what you've gotta do.

I too use the square graphite from McMaster-Carr as Mark referenced. More importantly as Owen-Dyneteo hinted (split rings) is cutting each wrap on a miter and offset the miters so they don't overlap.

This is a beautiful piece. Agree lost wax is the only way to pick up (preserve) that detail. Here are several suggestions: http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/FoundrySources.ashx The vintage machinery guys make more rough castings, but worth mentioning. I have not used either of these two, but they seem to cater to this type of casting: http://www.browncasting.com/ http://www.schalercasting.com/

The folks at Trans Bearing have always been helpful. Ask for Gary: http://www.transbearing.net/

The 3rd brush generator system uses three brushes, 1) Positive output, 2) Ground, and 3) Adjustment brush. The Output and the Ground should be opposite each other and the 3rd brush is between the two. The 3rd brush is connected to the one of the shunt field coils and the other end of the field coils is connected to the ground brush. Movement of the 3rd brush affects the magnetic force between the poles via its contact through the copper armature segments it touches. The 3rd brush controls the output as an angular relationship between it and the ground brush. Some checks for you to perform: 1. Are any of the field coils shorted against the case (grounding out) or each other? A field coil that is shorting against itself will not produce the magnetism needed. 2. Is there continuity from the 3rd brush and the field coil closest to it? 3. Are the field coils connected to each other? The total resistance should be a multiple of a single field coil measurement. If a single field coil measures 50 ohms, then total would be 100 ohms for a two pole generator and 200 ohms for a four pole and so on. 4. Is the one end of the field coil (the last in the series) connected to the ground brush? 5. Is there some residual magnetism in the poles? You may have to flash the field coils to get them magnetized by momentarily connecting them to a battery. 6. Check the thermostatic protection portion in the 3rd brush circuit. 7. The attached should be similar to your DELCO unit. PM me for more checks, etc.

Start with the basics, do a compression test on each cylinder. Also a leak down test if possible. At least you'll have this info as to the health of the engine now and to compare in the future Gasoline nowadays seems to have a shelf life of about 4 months. Run fresh gas in the tank.

I believe Linus said in another post he drives his car a lot. Could this be a case where the gel battery got over charged? Perhaps the battery in this case failed somehow.

I have not run into an over voltage problem. What may not known by many is the difficulty to yank the starter-generator out of a model L Lincoln. If it was easy you would have done it. So lets see if we can diagnose this with the unit still in the car. Have you done the obvious like check the brushes and that and that the brush holders are moving freely and allowing the brush to apply constant pressure to the armature? Especially the ground brush. Have you cleaned the armature copper segments with a brake clean? Use a tooth pick to clean between the segments Small amounts of dirt getting between the contact (segments) can cause problems. As you may know there is no regulator, just the circuit breaker box on the inside of the firewall. As far as I know there is no adjustment to adjust specificly the voltage output, just the current by moving the 3rd brush. The voltage is a fixed value based on the number of windings, how many turns are on each number in the field coils, and magnets. Check the 3rd brush carefully and the fine wire on it that acts like a thermal circuit breaker. Maybe something unexpected happened to that assembly. Is the armature surface smooth? Maybe the brushes are bouncing up and down on the armature and the short time the brush is off the armature may cause voltage spikes. You measured 8.8 volts, but I suspect that is an average value and does not tell us if small 12-15 volt spikes are present.

Need a little more info. Perhaps the industrial supplier McMaster-Carr can help:http://www.mcmaster.com/#roller-chain/=11muhis

A trick the electrician's trade performs when pulling wire through conduit is use a small shop vac to suck a light string through the line. once the light string is through, use heavier lead with a wad similar to gun cleaning technique. However, i too would opt to replace copper with steel in the interest of safety.

In reading Spitfire8's post, he says "fully retracted 3rd brush". There is something very wrong here. The 3rd brush is meant to be in line with another brush (think its the ground brush) for making contact with segments on the commutator. As you adjust the 3rd brush there is more contact with the segments for higher current and as it is moved, its slightly out of line (phase) and you get less current. If Spitfire8's 3rd brush is fully retracted, there is something wrong. The unit should be pulled and inspected. I would predict the unit should produce between 12-18 amps when adjusting of the 3rd brush from one extreme to the other. Agree 20-25 is too high, you'll cook the battery. Output should be about zero on the ammeter with headlights on (or about 15 with them off).

You can transfer the 7' X 3' pattern onto a roll of brown paper using a Serrated Tracing Wheel (also called pounce wheel) commonly used by the sewing folks. The tracing wheel transfers paper patterns to cloth for cutting.

I too recommend Electrolysis for rust removal. While this article was aimed at gas tanks, the principle is the same: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/gas-tank-cleaning-1.cfm Clean/finish the journals with crocus cloth.