Friartuck

Larry makes a good point, what is the voltage with the car at fast idle? Should be about about 7.2 or so. If your unit uses a third brush arrangement and cut out relay, check to see if there is voltage going to the armature lead (terminal). Its possible the field coils in the generator's housing have shorted either against each other or against the housing. Another possibility is that the cut out relay is faulty. A 6 Amp reading for ignition alone is about right. PM me for additional thoughts.

I think Ivan is correct in suggesting thin disks cut round and profiled inside as shown. Two disks are used on model L Lincolns on each end of the coupler shaft. Perhaps make them out of Stainless which would polish up nice. On the bolt pic, notice the shaft is right up to the bolt head which goes through the disks first allowing the disks to turn on a solid round surface.

The belting/molding detail suggests it is not a Hudson. Could mkm5 comment on where his Grandfather lived, by state or town?

Could you elaborate on the materials and process used?

I'll take a shot in proving some general advice. I'm not familiar with that vintage Dodge, but this should apply: 1. Check your fuel. If you use a vacuum tank mounted on the firewall, you may have to prime it by adding fuel. Today's fuels seem to last about 4 months. 2. Check for spark. 3. Recharged and strong battery 4. Use starting fluid into the carb. if the vehicle pops or sounds like it wants to start, then you've narrowed down the culprit as fuel related.

Contact Shrock brothers in Coalport, PA. They do steering wheel repairs for Studebaker and maybe able to help. Talk to David. shrockbrothers.com 814-672-5544. Don't be discouraged if you see their capability with die cast toys. They do that as well. They engineered a special pressure jig for steering wheels. The Bakelite might be tough to duplicate, so consider substitutes.

There are two very different air lines here. The vacuum is obvious, to use the engine's vacuum to draw fuel from the tank and to run the TRICO wiper. The second is the air vent. The fuel must have a vent to gravity feed into the lower (outer tank) and further to the Carb. The air vent would not produce any appreciable vacuum anyway to run the wiper. Run a copper line from the Tee connector into the cab as far as possible and complete with short rubber line onto the wiper. Flare nuts are available from many sources such as McMaster Carr. The wiper should be rebuilt with good seals to ensure it works properly and to ensure its not a source for a vacuum leak.

Based on my experience with my vacuum tank, yes there should be a spring. Think about how this operates: 1. Some fuel is needed in the outer chamber (tank) to get the vehicle running which creates vacuum (hence prime via the filler plug on top to prime if needed). 2. Vacuum draws fuel from the tank and deposits it into the inner chamber. The flapper on the inner chamber is pulled closed. As the float rises, it applies pressure onto to the vacuum line and now permits the fuel built up in the inner camber to gravity feed into the outer chamber (tank). Without the spring there would not be enough pressure placed on the pin to make a good seal. As the float lowers, the process repeats. Note: since there is a vent to atmosphere. I find today's fuels evaporate quickly. Priming is a necessity. Suggest purchasing or making a special funnel with the appropriate threads to screw into plug hole.

An interior trim shop with a good history is Everlast Auto Interiors on St Georges Avenue, Linden, NJ. PM me for additional info and referral.

I have used sealer from POR with good results: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer_p_64.html Do check for cracks in the cast pot metal lid. I use Kwik Poly to seal hair line cracks to ensure good vacuum and make sure the flapper at the bottom of the inner tank is free and seals when closed.

Thanks to all who replied. This thread was for a fellow collector who lives near me. Turns out the vehicle had front end work performed and it appears the shop used a flat blade screwdriver to remove the "sombrero" wheel cover. It got distorted and screw driver impressions are clearly shown in the dish portion near the edge. Some scraps and rough edges when it flew off at 40 MPH. The wheel/tire are not radials so flexing is not suspect, however, the teeth on the edges need attention. I believe that was the problem. John S in Penna provided sources for repair in a PM.

Hubcap in question is a 1951 Cadillac "Sombrero" for a series 62 Caddy. The cap is in good overall condition and slightly distorted. It won't stay on the wheel and recently popped off on a club run. Is there a vendor that specializes in hubcap straightening and/or repair? A search on the Forum did not reveal any.

Should ground the socket and not rely on the reflector.

My vehicles use a 1930's vintage Seth Thomas Electro mechanical clock. The issue with them is that the contacts get dirty (more like burned due to a lack of condenser) and when the arm swings down over the coils, the dirty contacts either don't make a connection and its stuck or insufficient current goes to the coils to fully swing the arm up. Use fine (600 grit) sandpaper or emery cloth against the contacts. Also check to make sure the clock is supplied with ample voltage AND current. Check the connections are tight.

FOR SALE, Interior Trim hardware items such as window cranks, door twist levers, escutcheons, robe rail ends, dome light, and a clamping part which maybe for a divider window. These came with a model L Lincoln project car, but are not for it. The ornamental pattern suggests custom body. Perhaps Willoughby? Could be for any period classic. Window cranks and door lever are thread size 1 inch X 20 TPI. Chris, 732-530-1917, friar1340@gmail.com

This turn signal controller maybe a help to those wanting to integrate existing or additional lights: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/product-reviews/turnsignal-1.cfm

Suggest contacting David Shrock at Shrock Brothers: http://shrockbrothers.com/ Look under the Studebaker Parts Tab for their work with steering wheels. They are in North Central Penn. David and his brother Tom perform steering wheel restoration for Studebaker using resins and a pressurized process they developed in house. Have them take a look to see if they can help. They also cast parts and miniature toys. Another option is several coats of powder coating........

Parachute cord is in 50 foot lengths for about $5 in the big box stores here in the States. I also use it for erecting ham radio wire antennas in trees and get it in 1,000 foot reels. Especially helpful when rebuilding cord style cigar lighters. Use two 18 AWG Teflon wires inside the paracord to provide a cloth appearance while being safe to operate.

You've gone this far with this project, will you have the field coils rewound?

I use parachute cord as a sleeve over the wire to provide insulation and appearance.

Gary Ash brings up a good point on flexing of this coupling. In that spirit, may I suggest machining it out of Delrin. It machines beautifully and offers slight flexing. Bill in Pittsburgh area sells surplus Delrin and Nylon in large sizes. Some may have seen him in the Green Field at Hershey. His number is 412-977-5279. He offers thick sheet and round stock.

Take the tank to a local radiator shop that still does hot tank clean outs and boil the tank and tube out. This is a good long term solution. Finish by coating the inside with a sealer: https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer_p_64.html

Consider powder coating for durability. If you're going to replace the field coils, that means your stripping it down all the way, so perfect opportunity to Powder Coat.

Has anyone ever tried to put model T era wood wheels on a model A? Are hub adapters available? I'm asking for a friend who has built a speedster and likes the look of wood wheels. Chris

UVIRA info: Also consider using #1183 (single contact) or #1184 (two contact bulbs). They are 50 Candle Power bulbs without the heat and current draw of a halogen.