Friartuck

Use the dash gauge amp meter and set to near zero with the lights on. With the lights off should rise to about.6. Lights are a predicable load of about 3 amps each. No need to use an external gauge, just the use the one already have. if you wanted to lessen the rate, then adjust to negative 1 or so. It depends on what type of driving you plan on doing with your Olds.

How about asking the folks that perform the porcelain process? Tom at Prairie.

Chistech is essentially correct here. The adjustment is a compromise. The desire is to always have the generator put enough current to overcome all the loads (usually headlights) while not discharging. The compromise is while driving during the day, you don't want to put to much current into the battery that will result in your over charging battery and "cook" it. The value of 7-8 amps cited by Christech would be combined load of lights and ignition. If you drive mainly during the day, you could reduce the current to say 5 amps. This is essentially the fallacy of a 3rd brush type generator.

The black screw was not tight and the post/connection was poor (friction fit). Other comments on condensers are spot on.

c49er makes a good point, very flexible wire is one that has many strands of fine wires twisted together. This repair used a multi strand wire and is good enough for this application. Regarding condensers, generally there is no voltage limit. There is a possible age issue, as older condensers with a paper insulator between the foil sheets can become brittle and/or break down and either 1) reduce the condenser value, 2) short it, or 3) open up the connection of the foil sheets inside. newly manufactured condensers typically use a Mylar or acetate insulator.

Ding Ding, Ding Ding, we have a winner. Gold Star to Stude17. Answer is the ground wire was attached to the advance pivot. And this was done some 15+ years ago by a professional shop. Using new wire and attaching to the condenser screw solved the problem. While it looks like the new wire is resting on the advance arm, its higher and not touching. Customer called last night and after reinstalling the distributor, the vehicle started on the first attempt.

These are good guesses, but not the main problem. Yes the cloth covered wire is disintegrating and the two wires look like that are twisted, but there is still a more fundamental problem. Hint: You're on the right track.

This production data provides a few clues http://friartuck.x10.mx/Lincoln/production_information/model_L_production.html There were 253 chassis built in 1921 that some could have worked their way to custom coach builders. Note that in 1922, Type 702 is listed. As the OP stated 720, which is the only 700 series listed, and from Judkins.

OK folks, thought this was a good opportunity for an old fashioned diagnostic quiz. Symptom was intermittent spark from the coil on a 6 volt 1951 Caddy. Can you spot the problem?

Sockets are available from Rhode Island Wiring Service. Comparison of 6 volt gauge/instrument bulbs: left to right: #55, #51, #316, #6251, BA9S LED (5 LEDs), and BA9S Short LED. The 316 and the 6251 seem to be equal and brighter than the original #55. Clearly the #51 is quite dim. The BA9S LED (fifth in the comparison) does produce ample light at a warm color (3000K) and draws less current. The last is also an LED with a lens on top. Its only available in the bright white color (6000K) and even looking straight into the lens isn't that bright. Conclusion: #316 or 6251 from Bulbtown seem better than the original #55.

To answer OP question: Super Chrome in Asbury Park, NJ is in central NJ: http://superchromenj.com/ You could have them blasted be someone else to reduce the cost. Look for a "Dustless Blaster" in your area. I know there is one in Belmar and one on Marlboro

While I'm asking, anyone know of a source for 9mm Bayonet sockets with the spring fingers to insert into the back of gauges/instruments like pictured. Also called snap in sockets.

Spinneyhill's link revealed this version, one with five side LED instead of surface version: https://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-6-volt-ac-5-led-360-degree.aspx Thanks Spinney!

Does anyone have a suggested brighter replacement for a #55 6 volt instrument bulb? #55 has a 9 mm bayonet base with a 2 Mean Spherical Candle Power (MSCP) output. Its used mainly in gauges, clocks, or radio to illuminate them at night.

Verify the engine's firing order with lose plugs and that compression weeps out in the correct order. Maybe someone put the plug wires into the cap in the wrong order. With all the references to the ignition firing order mentioned here and yours doesn't match seems to be a root cause. Is this an original engine or was it rebuilt at some time? Could the distributor be installed a few teeth off? #1 plug is wet because its not firing at the right time (during compression stroke). Go back to basics.

Restoration Supply in Escondido, Calf. http://restorationstuff.com/

At Hershey in 2017, I found a SETH THOMAS Electric clock that was used for for 18 months; mid 1929 through 1930 on Lincolns. Customers complained that the electric clock would run down the battery if the car was not used often enough, so Lincoln turned back to a Waltham wind up clock in subsequent years. Finding one is tough. My Hershey purchase: $30, Thrill of finding one: Priceless!

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer Make sure it doesn't drip into the flapper valve.

I'll add to the other responders, the electric pump is too much. There have been others that have successfully used electric pumps, but with a lot of trial and error. Like others have said, a properly working vacuum tank will feed the Stromberg well. Consider using a gas tank sealer in the outer tank. Something I experienced but not mentioned is verify the brass carb float is not submerging. My float material was so thin, the gas would seep through the brass. An epoxy coating solved that issue though in hindsight, a good coating of copper electroplating may have been a better solution, given long term exposure to gas and weight of epoxy vs copper plating to keep the float level calibrated.

Suggest contacting Tony Lauria who sells linoleum: http://battleshiplinoleum.com/

Tarminator from Stoner Enterprises: http://www.stonercarcare.com/products/exterior/tarminatoraerosol

Why not consider using a 6Vto12V converter solely for the AC: https://www.powerstream.com/dc6-12.htm

Yes Gardner-Westcott is reliable. As they have no minimum, ordering what you need for the task at hand is a valuable resource. Not sure what you define as expensive. Finding a vendor that offers the correct hardware has value to the DIY restorer.

Use minimum of 14 AWG wire for a coil application, 12 AWG if you can, it won't hurt.

Gardner-Westcott in Michigan has chrome plated flat, oval and many other head styles. http://gardner-westcott.com/ Down load their catalog and flip past the auto kits to individual hardware. I also use Tioga Stainless in Vermont and buff the head for near nickel appearance.