Friartuck

Looking for a source of this Aluminum Trim. It is 5/8 wide and 3/16 high. It's nailed in place and flexible enough to go around curves on a wood trunk to hide seams. It is filled with an insert, either rubber or leather covered welt. Any suggested replacement?

1750 RPM Only motor. This maybe helpful http://www.secondchancegarage.com/how-to/upholstery-1-1.cfm

Maybe profile the terminal and post for a better fit: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/battery/3-way-battery-tool

Thanks for following up on this thread. We all can learn from other collector's experiences.

Check the ground connection to the cluster.

$4K is fair given the condition. I think this could be saved in the right hands. As mentioned, price should go down depending on whats missing.

I too give a full endorsement to Earl and Jeff Greenberg at Certified Auto Electric.

The three star plate on front maybe a clue as to who used the vehicle. Maybe Liggett or Bullard. This could be a staff car used after WWI, as mentioned use serial numbers to date the vehicle.

I can recommend Everlast Auto on St. Georges Avenue, Linden, NJ Their work is high end and somewhat pricey. Eric Gordon is the current owner (son). Everlast has been in business since 1946. They did the leather trim on my Lincoln touring and that vehicle is now an AACA/CCCA senior due largely in part to the interior/top.

1922 - 1926 Packard (1st thru 3rd series six cylinder) had the split windshield. Can't be earlier, those windshields had a frame around the two glass portions. 1927 (4th series) had one piece windshield.

A 1930 reproduction 8th series manual I have in my library says to align the two "0" marks on the cam gear with the two "0" marks on the crankshaft sprocket. You say there are no marks on the crankshaft. Did you mean to say crankshaft sprocket? Is it possible that the sprocket is mounted backwards (and the marks are facing in)?

I draw your attention to the CCCA Judges Handbook. The intent is clear (safety) and I rest my case: AUTOMATIC DISQUALIFICATIONS There are six Disqualifications. Check the disqualifications first and place a check mark in the appropriate YES or NO Disqualification Box(s) at the top of the Judging Form (if Disqualified, notify the Area Head Judge immediately). Six Items that automatically disqualify a Classic 1. No Underwriters Laboratories approved fire extinguisher. 2. Non-safety glass in exterior windows. (See exception in the detailed description later in this manual.) 3. Non-authentic braking system. Exceptions: The conversion of a Classic from two to four wheel brakes is allowed if the added brakes are of the same type and system as the original equipment (no deduction). The addition of a booster to an otherwise authentic system is an authenticity deduction, see Category #20. 4. Non-authentic automatic transmission. 5. Non-authentic engine. 6. Replica body Further: CAR IS AUTOMATICALLY DISQUALIFIED FROM JUDGING IF NOT EQUIPPED WITH SAFETY GLASS IN ALL WINDOWS. NOTE: SEE EXCEPTIONS BELOW. Tinted Glass if normally not factory equipment. Deduct under Exterior Authenticity Category #39. Synthetic Material to Replace Fabric Portion of Side Curtains - Deduct under Exterior Authenticity Category #39. Minor Cracks Or Chips -1 Large Crack -2 Discolored -2 Torn Or Stained Side Curtains -2 Missing Side Curtain -2 Side Curtains All Missing -3 Top Boot Missing (if Std. equipment) -2 Top Boot in Poor Condition (only if standard equipment) -1 NOTE: Disqualify the car from judging if not equipped with safety glass in all windshield, side vent windows, and most rear windows. Safety glass is of three types: laminated, tempered and wired. Exceptions — Interior glass and Beveled rear window and wind wing glass need not be safety glass if not so originally equipped (unless otherwise required by any state or other regulatory agency.)

AACA and CCCA judging rules cite the need for safety glass when entering a judging meet. After verifying the fire extinguisher, glass is the next thing.

What is the key for the ignition? Agree with Spinneyhill, take to a locksmith.

My initial reaction is that mesh brushes were the predecessor to carbon brushes. I would continue to investigate, but consider using carbon versions that fit in to the brush holders and verify correct spring tension on them.

Its OK for the cut out to make the points connect (i.e. ON) at idle. At 1 amp positive on the gauge you're probably at the threshold of where the generator is spinning fast enough to engage the cutout, which is fine. Its when the engine is off where it needs to open and disconnect itself from the battery. A test you should consider is putting a Volt Ohm Amp Meter in line with the battery lead and see if there is any current while the ignition is off and all accessories are off, doors, closed, etc. Verify the test set up is right by turning on a light or opening a door to get the courtesy light to illuminate. A battery should not drain on its own. Its possible the coil of the cut out is malfunctioning and draining the battery. There is a spring adjustment on the cutout that will force the cutout to open at low speeds. Usually means bending a copper tab with needle nose pliers. Make adjustments with the engine off and battery disconnected to avoid creating another problem.

Check with Henry Yeska (Henry Yeska's Grandson) in NE Penn., 825 Georgetown Road, Nazareth, PA 18064 phone 610-759-0230, cell484-764-6351

1st or 2nd series eight cylinder, 1923-1925. The clue is the symmetrical bezel in the headlight.

Make sure the appropriate safety glass mark is applied, like in the lower corner. The glass shop should have a rubber stencil that one can light bead blast the logo.

Bite the bullet, get a new cap. Ask yourself, how much is the tow home going to cost versus buy another cap?

That was filmed at the Monmouth County (NJ) Concourse D 'Elegance circa 2008.

Why rivet when you can bolt using high tension strength hardware? I'm in the process of putting my ring gear together using Cap screws and thin jam nuts. Hardware available from Mcmaster-Carr. Make sure the shoulder goes through the ring and the carrier leaving room for the threads without bottoming out. Cut off excess threads. The bolts are longer than needed to get the right should length (critical). Don't forget the appropriate Loctite thread locker (with primer). Use good judgement. Your situation may need special clearances.

Did you resolve the incorrect firing order?

Mother In Law seat?? Or was that only on a Kissel....