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About stvaughn

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  1. Keiser31, That would be fine if the pivot measurements are close and not brittle. Mine measure 1 3/16” c/c between the bottom pivots and 6” vertical between the bottom and top pivots. Steve
  2. Curti, Thats very similar to my original pedal on my 32 REO which is unusable because the sockets have broken apart. Are those pedals available as reproductions? The “fitzall” pictured is on my 33 REO and will work if I can’t find anything closer to original.
  3. Nick8086 send me pictures and a price. Steve
  4. Thanks, but I don’t think any of Bob’s have the ball pivot sockets.
  5. Do the brakes lock up, or is it just the master cylinder? Does it do it when driving or when bleeding? How many pumps to lock up? Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? More information please. I’m using DOT 5 also and have spent several weeks getting my brakes sorted out.
  6. Universal fit like this. It pivots on two balls. I have the pivot. I have not been able to locate a source. Please help. I need one, I might take two if you have the pivots. Thanks, Steve
  7. Sounds like a home brew Motive pressure bleeder. Motive makes an adapter to fit the fill hole on my master cylinder. What kind of master cylinder do you have? Mine is a Lockheed with a top bolted on with 6 bolts. Not sure it will hold pressure. Taking your idea a step further, use the pump from a one gallon sprayer in a 2 1/2 body and you wouldn’t even need an air compressor. I just need to find out if it will work with my type of master cylinder.
  8. I understand the slow part but is there any reason to pump more than one time between bleeds?
  9. Is anybody having any issues with using DOT 5 brake fluid with brass sleeved cylinders? I have been told that they are not compatible.
  10. Curti, The fittings on my master and wheel cylinders are 1/2-20 straight thread and use a thin copper washer to seal. The only replacement washers I can find are much thicker and don’t seal very well. I prefer not to use a sealer but that appears to be the only way I can be sure I get a seal. Any idea where I can find some thin copper washers? Even the ones B&E supplied with my rebuilt cylinders were the thick ones.
  11. Curti, I have questions on annealing. I used copper nickel brake lines when I rebuilt the brake system and while I have not had any problems would the flares benefit from annealing? I have had problems with the copper crush washers on the master cylinder not sealing with the DOT 5 and resorted to using Form-a-gasket hardening sealer on them. What is the proper way to anneal the crush washers?
  12. Well I’ve had a minor setback. The second master cylinder I have has been sleeved with a brass sleeve and according to B&E brass is not compatible with DOT 5 so now I have to send it to them and hope they can sleeve it with stainless steel. 🤞Brad said that they have started to see some incompatibility issues between DOT 5 and some of the rubber parts on the market now. He said he’s not sure whether it’s a change in the brake fluid or the rubber parts. Just another bump in the road.
  13. You’ve peaked my interest. Post some more information.
  14. I called B&E this morning and they say that DOT 5 is thinner than DOT 3 and that they have had problems with DOT 5 leaking past the rubber cups but couldn’t explain the amber color. I am 99.5% sure it is not leaking past the cups. The color is what’s confusing me. I can wipe the MC down clean and dry and in two or three days there’s an amber drop on the bottom. I have the rebuilt MC off of my 33 and the only thing I know to do at this point is change it out and see if the issue disappears. I’ll let you know. Steve
  15. I thought about the possibility of the sleeve or even the piston cup leaking but if that were the case then the drip would be at the bottom of the triangular flange where the MC bolts up which is lower than the body of the MC and it would be blue. There is nothing above or nearby the MC that could cause this.