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  1. The seat adjustment mechanism in my 33 coupe is missing. I could modify a 1932 S1 or possibly other models to work. Any help locating one would be appreciated. Steve
  2. Check Model A parts suppliers. They have various sizes. I used some on my REO’s. Modified slightly and work just fine.
  3. Summit has a kit as do other street rod suppliers https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/epas-performance-electric-power-steering-kits/part-type/power-and-manual-steering-conversion-kits?tw=Electric power steering &sw=EPAS Performance Electric Power Steering Kits
  4. Thanks John. I’ll check that product out.
  5. Ed, please give me the name/number of someone to fix the head. Thanks, Steve
  6. Thanks trini, but I’ll use my local shop that has already re-cored it once.
  7. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions. I have been trying to locate a replacement head for two years with no luck. This head had been stick welded in the past which makes proper repair more difficult which is why I tried the Fiberlock product. Anyway, I called CRC tech support to see if they had any suggestions. Ok, bad news, good news. When I told him my situation and stated that I believe his product stopped up the radiator he said “ Yes, it does that sometimes.” He then explained that the radiator would have to be replaced because his product had “set up” in the core. He also explained that the product was not suitable for zero pressure cooling systems which is not noted on the container. He then sent me a claim form to fill out for reimbursement of the cost of a replacement radiator which was a total surprise to me. Apparently it’s a known issue with this product. Since this is a new core in the radiator I know what the cost will be. Hopefully all I’ll be out is my time. We’ll see if they reimburse me for the full cost of getting a replacement core.
  8. 1932 REO. I’ve been driving this car in hot weather (90 +) for two years with no problems. However I had a some water seepage in a crack in the head and a head gasket leak so I decided to “fix” it with some super duper stop leak. K&W Fiberlock. Well, it sealed the leaks just fine but now I’m overheating. In the process of trying to find out what went wrong I noticed the lower radiator hose would collapse when I reved up the engine. I’ve never had that problem before so I’m guessing this stuff has clogged up the radiator. I’ve tried back flushing, filling and driving and draining and repeating several times. I put a stiff coil of wire in the lower hose and when I rev up the engine I can see the hose trying to pull in. I’ve thought about trying a mixture of water and alcohol to see if that might dissolve the stoppage. Any suggestions before I bite the bullet and pull the radiator? Steve
  9. Yes, I agree. Now if I could just find 25 other people that needed four springs. 😃
  10. Thanks Mike, I’ll give them a call. Steve
  11. Mark, the spring you referenced is 0.069 wire diameter with a 3 lb. rate. The spring I have has a wire diameter of 0.10 and is rated at 25 lbs according the Lee Spring. Both Lee and The Spring Store have a 25 lb/5 inch spring but it is 0.750 whereas mine are 0.625. The Spring Store’s are stainless steel and cost $42.98 so that’s a no-go. Lee’s are $11.90 so I may try them if I determine that they will fit. Nothing in McMaster Carr is strong enough. I appreciate everyone’s help Steve
  12. Well, they are brake shoe return springs so that makes them important but there’s nothing special about them. They do need to be the right length and tension and be durable. I’d be real leery of a Chinese hardware store spring in my brakes. I’ve got a NAPA brake parts catalog and they don’t show them. Model A springs are completely different but you can buy a set for all 4 wheels for $13.00 so I have no idea why these should cost so much. I’m surprised that someone doesn’t make them. I don’t think Lockheed brakes are that uncommon. Hopefully someone will see this thread and point me to a source.
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