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About scott12180

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  1. Not that I want to challenge the seller, but 2.75 rear end is a little hard to believe. With that low of a ratio power should be next to nothing, especially in a four passenger Touring. The Pierce 66 had a similar ratio but had an engine the size of the Titanic, nearly three times bigger. This Hudson engine at 3-1/2x5 is big but not that big. Same size as the Packard Six in 1928. 3.75 sounds about right for a fast car from around 1920. I would like to see a reference for that 2.75 figure. I'm poking around but haven't found anything yet. "" says 4.75:1. A 1921 "Automotive Industries" magazine with specifications for all cars lists Hudson Super six as 4.90 ! 4.75 or 4.90 sounds way too slow, but with a very smooth counterbalanced engine they may have acquired their fast speed through very high rpm's. Perhaps the Speedster is geared taller. I hope someone can provide that confirmation.
  2. I often wonder what the actually selling price of Stanleys is these days. You sometimes see cars advertised for months and months, if not years. And no one is buying. Have they lost some of their appeal? I don't know and am not speculating. I've always wanted a Stanley as well, and have always been put off by the price tags. But everything goes in cycles. Perhaps Stanleys have seen their day in the sun and collectors with that much money to spend are buying other things. There's a nice looking Model 70 currently for sale for around $150,000. But to be honest, if I had that much money to spend, there's a whole lot of other stuff out there that you can just get in and drive without any hassle. Maybe it's just me getting old ! -- Luke
  3. Matt's comments are quite sound. A while back there was a car advertised here for an astoundingly high price, and several people counseled the seller to that effect. It has been advertised lower and lower, and now myself having sold a car it interests me. So I wrote asking if the car was available and for photos. I even stated what I wanted to see. I got two photos both which were posted on this forum. So I asked again. . . . could you please send me, etc .etc. . . I got two more photos. No more information. I recommended that the fellow look at various dealer's websites to see how they represent cars, how they take photos, what they take photos of, how many. That he should write up a detailed history of the car and it's condition, and all that. I referenced Matt Harwood as I feel Matt is a decent guy who does represent his cars well. Perhaps this fellow will consign the car to Matt. Anyway, being a buyer, I find it just as annoying to try to get information out of a seller as sellers do entertaining tire kickers. Dealers do have their role to play and can be an asset to the hobby, so long at their prices are reasonable, with reasonable profits figured in, and their cars are really cars for sale. Meaning, put in the price ! This "Inquire" bullshit you see so much of drives me nuts. As Jack M also said, I won't "inquire". I just assume it's too expensive or the dealer is fishing for an appraisal. For sale means for sale. -- Luke
  4. Considering how much abused the term "barn find" is these days, THIS, gentlemen, is what Barn Find means. The description is a little odd, though. Is the car being sold as it is shown, or is this just as it was found and now it's in some other storage, all inventoried and cleaned up? -- Luke
  5. I was going to post a question to the general section of this forum, but I'll ask here: This 836 Club Sedan is a CCCA National First Prize winner -- 100 points, allegedly. So is this consistent with the fact that the car has all around tinted glass? Would this car receive an AACA Senior award with tinted glass? I find it hard to believe the owner replaced all the glass after doing the show circuit. To replace all that glass and return it to clear glass seems to be a huge project. The risk of damaging something is sobering. And no, it's not a peel-off lamination. We checked. . . it's real, tinted glass. -- Luke
  6. Just a general question on the 305 cubic inch Zephyr engine for 1942. I've heard that by boring out the block to be a 305, these engines are prone to cracking. That's one reason why after the War they went back to the 292, I understand. If one were to find a running 1942 Zephyr which has been been rebuilt, would you have a risk that the block may crack under normal use? For instance, I once owned a 1938 Packard Super 8, and learned that these blocks are prone to cracking. If you're engine isn't cracked now, it probably will be soon if you drive it much. -- Luke
  7. I'm looking into having a big early 1930's Club Sedan upholstered -- wool broadcloth. The original upholstery is there, just too ratty to be comfortably used. I'm not looking for Pebble Beach quality, mostly driver quality but I want it done right and done well. Does anyone know of someone doing this kind of work in the northeast? I'm in Albany, NY. Thanks --- Luke
  8. >>I just love it when you see an ad for a Ferrari, Packard or similar car, and the last line says "POA" - Price upon application. I already know it's too expensive for me. Ha ha. My sentiments exactly. Yet so many dealers never put in the price. They say "Inquire". That tells me that either they don't know themselves what it's worth and are waiting for offers, or it is so overpriced they don't want to look foolish to the casual observer. I don't think I've ever "Inquired". From what I've seen, the more high profile dealers always include a price. Seems to me stating the price, or at least an asking or starting price, would save a lot of tire kicking.
  9. I'm going to replace the ignition coil on my 32 Packard. I just bought a new 6v coil. The coil on the car now is not necessarily mounted where it would have been originally. It's inside the passenger compartment, on the dashboard, mounted horizontally. What I'm wondering is, is the orientation of the coil important? This coil has presumably oil onside because when I shake it I can hear a liquid sloshing around. That being said, can it be mounted horizontally or even upside down? Or must it be mounted upright? Thanks -- Luke
  10. I have a new distributor cap for a 1930's Packard that I stupidly dropped off the table. When it hit the ground it broke into several pieces. Oh well. It happens sometimes. But has anyone found a glue or some other method to repair a cracked or broken distributor cap so it won't arc? I hate to give up on it without trying something. Thanks -- Luke
  11. Thanks, guys, for your advice on the coil. Youv'e made me realize that the ignition wires are at least 40 years old, and yes they are stuffed into in a metal conduit or loom. It's not too much of a stretch to imagine that I could very well be getting some arcing in there. And since I've no idea of the history of the coil, I'm going to get a new coil and ignition wire as well. At least I can eliminate that source of trouble. -- Luke
  12. Does anyone have a recommendation for an appropriate 6 volt ignition coil for a 1930's Eight cylinder Packard? I recall reading somewhere that you do not want to use the "Flame Thrower" coils with an old-style point-and-condenser system as these coils require an electronic ignition system to operate properly. Any thoughts on that? But basically I think that any six volt coil should be fine for a 1930's car. My gut says to avoid the super-high voltage coils since my ignition wires are stuffed into a metal conduit and there's a possibility for arc-ing inside. -- Luke
  13. My apologies ... I see this is a legitimate ad. I own a 902 Packard and for $8500 I would buy it if it were close in New England. But it will help if there could be some photos of the engine as well as an idea of the mileage on the car. If it's a low mileage chassis and if it's complete, the engine and mechanical parts are where the value is.