Friartuck

Trimacar, what is your opinion on synthetic horse hair, sometimes called rubberized curly hair, sold in sheets ranging from 3/4 to 1 1/2 thick?

Try John Wolf instruments. They offer speedo repair/restoration, they may offer or know of a supplier for the cable. John Wolf Company

Make your own starting with hex stock and turning down on a lathe. Run through a die: https://www.travers.com/right-hand-high-speed-steel-adjustable-split-threading-dies/p/57751/?keyword=12-28 die&category=1|Metal Cutting Tools%3a High Speed Steel %26 Solid Carbide&lite=true&pricelistname=SITE

Consider Delrin sheets, also available from McMaster Carr. Its hard, a good insulator, and machines & drills well. rsb suggestion of using a phenolic or glassy-epoxy circuit board is also possible. Use an etch to remove (dissolve) copper where you don't want it. PM me for details and what materials to do this. Can be done by the DIYer.

Beals and Selkirk Trunk Tag, Black and Brass, 1 3/4 inch high X 7/16 inch wide, $15 each. Ignore the lint over the letters, they're not scratches. Chris Wantuck, friar1340@gmail.com 732-530-1917.

I use a turn signal system from Electro Tech: http://turnswitch.com/Turnsignal.htm A system designed by car guys for guys. This controller is flexible enough to handle most light configurations. An article on this is at Second Chance Garage: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/product-reviews/turnsignal-1.cfm

After market trunk rack for mid 1970's MGB. This rack when installed is flat where the factory rack has a slight curve. Plating not perfect but should clean up nicely. $40, Chris W. 732-530-1917, friar1340@gmail.com

Ed Linn, email edwardlinn209@msn.com Phone: 248 797 8781

John Wolf Company in Ohio? http://antiqueinstrument.com/

Perhaps I didn't make my previous response clear enough. Coat each of the surfaces with the appropriate sealer on the wood and paint on the metal & wood. Assemble with an air gap. I do not suggest a fibrous material that would attract or promote moisture to collect between the two surfaces. Even if this little Humbrette is stored indoors, humidity can be factor for moisture.

What would be wrong with an air gap between the two surfaces?

Available: Beals and Selkirk Trunk Tag, Black and Brass, 1 3/4 inch high X 7/16 inch wide, $15 each. Chris Wantuck, friar1340@gmail.com 732-530-1917.

Now available, reproduction owners manuals for 1929 and 1930 model L Lincoln. These are high quality scans where the text was read by an Optical Character Reader (OCR) and image/graphic was individually scanned and retouched. Professionally printed with card stock covers and cloth tape on the binder. $45 each plus shipping. Chris Wantuck, 732-530-1917, friar1340@gmail.com

This is a National Pipe Thread (NPT) to Flare Elbow. Alternative is short nipple into double female elbow and Flare to NPT adapter on the other side of the elbow. Disagree with "more joints more leaks". Use good sealer on threads. If appearance is critical, braze and clean up original fitting. The local Lowes Box Store should be able to have what you need.

I think what Ed is referring to are a class of capacitors used in the electronic industry called Ceramic Surface Mount Technology (SMT). The term Solid State threw me off as well. Due to the multi-layer construction and ceramic composition, they are rated for 600+ Volts at the needed .22 uF value. They can provide a series of solutions where space is at a premium, such as in a motorcycle ignition. This is good to know.

I have used both Smooth-On Urethanes for molds and their clear (which is tintable) for the actual part. I have also used Alumilite with moderate success. The Alumilite I used went past its shelf life, so the mediocre results may have resulted due to age, not sure which to blame it on, but Smooth-On solved my problem anyway so I never pursued a fresher batch of Alumilite. These two articles may help: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public2/small-parts.cfm http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/casting-taillights-1.cfm I also have used DEVCON products (Rubber) with good success, so Gary's suggestion should be a good one. The material from Mcmaster-Carr is not DEVCON.

If I interpret it correctly, your fuel gauge system is a series system where power is applied to the gauge and the other wire runs to the gas tank sending unit. The gas tank sending unit is simply a fine variable resistor that is connected to the float arm. When the float is at its highest (full tank), the resistance is near zero and the fuel gauge needle moves to maximum which is FULL As the float goes down, the resistance increases and the needle moves down. The empty position is about 100 ohms resistance at the sending unit. As others have suggested make sure the wire is not grounding to the body somewhere. Another test you can do is to remove the wire from the sending unit and see if the gauge falls to zero (EMPTY). Measure the resistance at the sending unit. it should be between zero and 100 ohms and proportionate with the amount of gas in the tank (50 ohms for 1/2 tank, etc.). When connected to the sending unit, shake the car to slush the gas around and you should see the resistance vary about 10 ohms. Anything not close to these measurements, replace the sending unit.

Karl, There is evidence of two magnets glued onto the drive shaft close to the tranny, a square version and a round version. Currently there are none. The sensor is there. 1. How far away does the sensor have to be to the magnet? 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch or more? Do you recall a bolt through the sensor aimed at the magnet? 2. Do you remember a brand name?

Looking for information on an aftermarket speed controller. Does anyone recognize it? Need technical documentation to repair it. The pick up sensor at the drive shaft appears to need something, perhaps a magnet? Any leads appreciated.

My late father sold two K model Lincolns to a local collector circa 1979. When he finally got around to restoring the second one some 20+ years later he found a stack of letters under the back seat written by my father to his parents in Yonkers, NY. Judging from the envelopes, I didn't know my father had an artistic flare. They are all written in polish and slowly getting them translated.

Don Micheletti makes a valid point that the screw is well attached to the breaker plate. His screw may have a spacer where the screw can tighten (to the plate) while leaving the advance arm to pivot. The issue in our case was the screw was into a threaded pin and the diameter of that pin didn't make a good connection to the underside of the terminal even when the screw was tight. We opted for a sure thing, the condenser mounting screw (ample connection on both sides of the ring terminal).

What should one do if a replacement manifold is not available? I have been in contact with two companies that offer thermal metalizing coating service over cast iron: http://falmer.com and https://boltsmetallizing.com/index.html The issue comes down to price. Is it worth $300-$500? Perhaps, depending on the vehicle and the owners budget.

I didn't bother with a kit, I started with the lighter color: painted the entire area with the light color and once dry, used cheese cloth to apply the grains using printer's ink (called paste ink) which is in a thick paste form. Apply clear over the entire area/part once the ink has dried (allow for entire day). And as midman said: Practice. Play around with the cheesecloth, you can make burls using a twist technique. Its actually fun once you get the hang of it.

This was brought to my attention by a thermal metalizing company: https://www.aremco.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/A03_18.pdf Given the temperature limit of the pyro-putty 2400 at 2000 degrees, would this be suitable as a filler prior to the porcelain coating process?

Have you determined the float is not submerging? Older brass floats can become porous and allow gas to seep through the walls into it thus making it float at an incorrect level.