Friartuck

Consider making a trip to Tenn and try to recover what you can. Maybe not all parts are totally destroyed. You know what your parts look like. Lesson learned for all: This reinforces the need for taking pics before sending parts.

These are all good comments. I didn't see anyone advise you to block sand and block sand. Did I mention to block sand? A great paint job is one where you look down any panel and see no waves or ripples. I also didn't see any advice of paint products. I happen to like PPG products, beginning with the DPLF epoxy primer. Since its available to several colors you can color coordinate to the top coat. Since you don't want to break the epoxy coating, use a primer surfacer and block sand that layer. Another reason i like PPG is they make their sheets available to all: http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/home.aspx?lang=en-us Each product has its own sheets for base and top coat compatibility. http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/dualsearch.aspx?searchtext=DPLF&searchmode=anyword

My website on model L Lincoln, Some good production data for reference: http://www.friartuck.x10.mx/Lincoln/

Superweld in Long Island New York has performed repairs for many problem cracks in blocks and heads: https://www.yellowpages.com/farmingdale-ny/mip/superweld-co-inc-13002066

http://www.classicpreservation.com/vactankfloats.html

The switch described by Paul is a three position switch: OFF-ON-MOMENTARY. The OP said it was a two position, but maybe meant to say three. In that configuration it makes sense for a starter with a solenoid.

If you have access to the area behind the wood, suggest using thick plate with threaded holes to create blind nuts. Otherwise, Kwik Poly and dowels and redrill.

This article will be a good start. Don't just crimp the blue ring terminals, but crimp, solder, and cover with shrink tubing. Make sure to use ring terminal sized to the wire and stud size: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public2/electrical-connections-1.cfm I think your decision to use a separate coil versus the integrated switch/coil version is fine. One thing less to go wrong. If the switch is just two positions, the starter lead doesn't make sense. One terminal to Battery, one to Ignition, and the 3rd terminal could go to other things that are key controlled (e.g. instrument lights) I don't see a solenoid for the starter, so perhaps that is foot operated. As for wire gauge for the ignition (coil), use either 12 or 14 gauge. That may sound oversize, but the ignition should have a nice strong source.

If you can't find an exact vehicle for use as a sample consider approaching the interior as those patterns and techniques used in that period. The few pics I saw showed tufted leather. As for the hood, the lack of louvers may make this easier for a panel fabricator. The vehicle on classiccarratings.com seemed to provide some info to follow. My bad using "hood" in the wrong sense. Should have known. Suggest making a prototype "hood" or top out of scrap material.

If I'm correct, air friction speedometer was a Tesla invention. The inner drum is directly connected to the cable/gear assemblage and the outer drum is on a light spring The outer drum has the numbers around its circumference. The air between the two drums makes the connection between them. Calibration is made by either drum height or the spring.

I have successfully used contacts from these folks to repair vintage electrical (with a little finessing): https://www.surplussales.com/Relays/contacts.html

Tie ribbons around a lot of old oak trees?

Lately I've been using welt cord from Great Lakes and it appears they carry twin cordage. http://greatlakescordage.com/braided-welt-cord/twin-welt/ They do sell by the yard, no need to purchase an entire spool for a one time project. Since I use a Juki 241 walking foot machine which is a Singer 111W based machine, I get my feet attachments from either E-bay or Cutex Sewing Supplies. The foot showed in the Sail Rite video is likely unique to their type machine.

I like the square graphite packing. Miter cut the rings on a diagonal and as Spinneyhill mentioned, orient them so they don't overlap (12, 4 and 8 o'clock). Square packing is at McMaster-Carr.

Bob, You are correct. If a casting option is not viable, I plan to do it in two parts, turn the tube portion down on a lathe and cut out the yoke portion from a hollow thick wall tube.

Looking to have two of the pictured fitting made. Its for a brass bed, the decorative horizontal and vertical tubes at the foot board. I would think this is a simple lost wax casting item. Comments and casting sources?

For fabric applications, consider vendors like Sunbrella brand which is used in marine and awning trades: http://www.perfectfit.com/15308/154203/Bindings-Trims/Hidem-Welt.html https://www.sailrite.com/Notions/Trims/Trim-Hidem-Gimp https://www.albrightssupply.com/automotive-hidem-s/2240.htm http://veada.com/marine-vinyl-boat-upholstery/hidem-welt-trim.html And don't forget ebay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1311.R4.TR11.TRC1.A0.H1.XHidem.TRS0.TSS0&_nkw=hidem+welt&_sacat=0

Stay with the 6 volt system. A properly working 6 volt system will be fine. Check/clean connections. FYI, Brattons offers 10 Candle Power bulbs. Brighter than those 3 CP bulbs.

Hard wire a pig tail so access is easy. Remember to account for polarity and if an exposed connector contact might come in contact with the ground and short. I use MOLEX brand connectors with chassis mount version mounted in a bracket behind the dash. https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=econolatch&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=wire_to_wire_connectors Adopt a convention something like the pointed end is positive. Include a short pigtail to interface between Battery Tender molded connector to the MOLEX. All my vehicles are wired this way, so one charger can be used for any vehicle.

Superweld in Farmingdale, NY

Provide a close up pic of the piece you remove, in essence the cross section, preferably with dimensions. You may be able to use a generic extruded rubber strip from Restoration Specialties, Steele Rubber or Metro Rubber. This is an example of where Karr Rubber may have had your extruded profile, but they are no longer in business. Don't forget to check the hot rod section of any of those companies.

Jim, The generator is adjusted correctly for normal driving use. Check the battery level often.

To document this thread for future readers, the owner of Cool Weld in Long Island City closed up approx. 1998 and became one of the staff at SuperWeld. Their specialty is engine block and head repairs/reconstruction. Superweld 111 Gazza Blvd. Farmingdale, NY Phone: 631-694-7989 POC: Roy Santopietro

Does anyone know of a company that resided in Long Island City, New York called Cool Weld. They specialized in repairing cracked heads and engine blocks. What happened to them and where are they now?

Does anyone recognize this plate? Where is TWY? The numbers on the side are 1963.