strictlyballroom

Thanks Jon, in all likelihood the only one of your suggestions that I suspect it might be is a sticking float. Are you saying that if the float sticks open, the fuel effectively floods out of the hole in the casing that I marked with a green arrow? Thanks Mike

Hi I have a leaking carb issue on my 57 Thunderbird. The carb is original and recently rebuilt and worked fine until recently. One one of the pics you can see a green arrow and this is where the fuel floods out when cranking or running the engine. The other photo with a green arrow shows a hole, where the fuel may be escaping from. It's really difficult to tell and I'm hoping someone has experienced this before. Many thanks Mike

My mechanical skills and experience extends to all things prior to 1950. I am currently working on a hot-rod, which has a 70's Mopar engine fitted. Can anyone help identify what these two items are? It would save me sitting on Google for a couple of hours. Many thanks. Mike

I can now advise what the cause of the problem. In brief, the cylinder head gasket was leaking and coolant was getting into cylinder one preventing the plug from firing. The engine had been rebuilt, but from what I can tell, the head had not been torqued properly. Thanks to all those for your helpful suggestions. Mike

I really appreciate your comprehensive reply, and I will certainly let everyone know the outcome. Mike

Many thanks a couple of new ideas to try. Mike

Yep, I think you’re absolutely right. Once I’ve taken the head off I’ll post with my findings. Thanks for your help. Mike

The engine is original to the car, and it has been recently overhauled prior to my purchase. I too thought it was probably a valve, but the good compression threw me. Mike

The dizzy does turn ACW so the firing order was a red-herring. The engine is original, but recently rebuilt. The plug and lead is good - all checked three times. The mystery continues.

The same web site that gave me the firing order also stated the direction of the dizzy was CW, but I should have checked, which I will do tomorrow. I really don’t think the leads are a problem given I am getting a really strong spark. i don’t remember a vacuum port, but I will look tomorrow also. it would appear based on the replies so far there is nothing obvious for the cylinder not to be firing. mike

Yes the rotor is pointing at cylinder 1 at TDC

Yes I did, the plug is fine.

My new 1950 Nash Rambler is only firing on 5 cylinders. Confirmed by when you remove the lead to cylinder 1 it makes no difference. By contrast, remove any of the others and there is a noticeable difference. There is a good spark at cylinder one - tested with inline tester and the more traditional way of holding plug to earth (really strong Blue spark). Looking into the spark plug hole, the valves seem to be opening when the engine is running. The real mystery, the internet tells me the firing order should be 153624. However, it's set-up as 142635. I did try and put the leads as they should be, but the car would not even start. The fact is the car runs quite sweetly with the incorrect firing order, save for missing on one cylinder. The engine is the correct 1950 Nash Rambler straight 6. I performed a Compression test (I only tested 3 cylinders) 1. 105 (the offending cylinder) 2. 90 6. 90 More mystery, the offending cylinder has good compression. I have tried to test the timing, but I could not get my hands on a timing gun that would work with 6 volts, but seeing as she runs pretty well apart from a slight misfire I don't think the timing has anything to do with it. When you remove the plug after running the car for a short-while, the plug is wet so there is fuel getting to the cylinder and you can see it down the plug hole. Yes, I know I should take the head off and see what's happening, but I have just bought this car and I am not near my workshop and hoping I have missed something really obvious. All suggestions welcome. Mike

My new 1950 Nash Rambler is only firing on 5 cylinders. Confirmed by when you remove the lead to cylinder 1 it makes no difference. By contrast, remove any of the others and there is a noticeable difference. There is a good spark at cylinder one - tested with inline tester and the more traditional way of holding plug to earth (really strong Blue spark). Looking into the spark plug hole, the valves seem to be opening when the engine is running. The real mystery, the internet tells me the firing order should be 153624. However, it's set-up as 142635. I did try and put the leads as they should be, but the car would not even start. The fact is the car runs quite sweetly with the incorrect firing order, save for missing on one cylinder. The engine is the correct 1950 Nash Rambler straight 6. I performed a Compression test (I only tested 3 cylinders) 1. 105 (the offending cylinder) 2. 90 6. 90 More mystery, the offending cylinder has good compression. I have tried to test the timing, but I could not get my hands on a timing gun that would work with 6 volts, but seeing as she runs pretty well apart from a slight misfire I don't think the timing has anything to do with it. When you remove the plug after running the car for a short-while, the plug is wet so there is fuel getting to the cylinder and you can see it down the plug hole. Yes, I know I should take the head off and see what's happening, but I have just bought this car and I am not near my workshop and hoping I have missed something really obvious. All suggestions welcome. Mike

Hi I have just bought this 1950 Rambler, and I need to touch-up some of the paint - does anyone what this color is (if indeed it's an original color). Ideally a paint code, but I can work off a name. Thanks Mike.