70sWagoneers

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About 70sWagoneers

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  1. So I finally solved my starter woes. Now Ive got new 2/0 soldered positive cable, new mesh type ground strap, new armature and field coils in starter, new Optima battery and an auxilliary ground cable that goes directly from starter to ground strap on battery. I fixed a few problems, but believe my battery was going bad as the main culprit. But the ground from starter to battery made a significant difference too. But this is on top of me welding nuts into the frame as my ground attachment points. So she starts so good now. Thanks everyone, on to the next thing James
  2. It was from Rhode Island Wire. So I actually just went to Napa and got a correct size 2/0 that fits right, looks better,and cheaper. Thanks everyone James
  3. Ive cleaned the connections and switch, and installed higher wattage white 6v LEDs in my '37 Buick. All lights work including the map and clock light. You cannot see the gauge cluster lights during the day. I always joke with passengers about how hard Ive worked on the lights and flick the switch on and off and ask excitedly "You see that?!". They always say no I dont see anything. But at night it decently lights the cluster up. So I'm just hoping thats as good as it gets. James
  4. I ordered 2/0 cable and a straight post clamp type battery terminal for my 6v Buick. First, the clamp says 3/0 but i went ahaead and soldered it. But then it actually seems to be the smaller neg terminal size, even though it has a "P" on it. Even after spreading the opening its still too small, but it would fit the neg great. Do you agree and/or am I crazy? Thanks James
  5. 1937 Special 248ci Is there a filter i can buy for this fuel pump glass? If not has anyone made their own? Is it just a mesh,rolled into a tube shape? Thanks again James
  6. Yes, 1/0 or 2/0 sounds like the way to go. My issue is starting. If my battery charger says 95% to full charge, I get about 20seconds total of cranking, and if she don't start, the battery is dead. And a lot of times, if everything is hot, the starter will barely turn the engine over. Ive taken any excess timing out of the distributor. Ive gone through the starter many times and have even changed out the armature which seemed to fix the problem for a while, but now I cant trust it again. The only thing left to change in the starter is the field windings. But, I want to make sure the battery cables aren't causing me problems first (changing field is a pain). Thanks everyone. James C
  7. Nice, Gary. I've added a few extra grounds too. I added one from generator to chassis. So 1gauge spins the starter well? The starter is my main problem at the moment. Thanks James
  8. Sorry, I wasnt sure. I thought it almost looked like vinyl in pic. Thanks James C
  9. Was the positive cable vinyl or cloth covered?
  10. 1937 Buick Special 40 Trunkback Sedan Hello, I'd like to replace the autozone "replacement" battery cables on my car. The cables are incorrect and I suspect undersized. First of all, does anyone know what gauge the positive cable is? I'd like to use 2/0 as long as everything else looks factory correct. Is the 3/8" ring terminal to the starter bare copper or tinned copper (guessing bare)? Is the battery to chassis ground a cable or a strap like the starter to chassis ground strap? I would like to know if someone can show how the positive cable is routed from battery to starter as from the factory. As of now it is zip tied to the battery tray, then runs thru a frame brace hole and into the passenger box frame before shooting out perpendicular to the starter. As it is run now, it is about 60" long. If I look on Bob's Automobilia, their cable is 53" so perhaps my routing is incorrect. And lastly did '37 have a battery hold-down? Ive got the cover but just a bungee as a hold-down. I'll probably order from Rhode Island Wiring because I've used them a couple times before. I will also assemble the parts myself. So, in general, I'd like any info or pictures of the original positive and negative battery cables I can get. Thanks James C.
  11. Well, its back together, it spins, and it doesnt make noise... so I'm alright for now. Seperating the driveshaft from the pinion shaft was the hardest thing. I hung the assembly from a forklift with a bearing splitter and used a oxy-acetylene. When it had some heat, i picked the whole thing up and slammed it down on the bearing splitter. Brutal; I know. I replaced the pin with mild steel I turned down a couple of thou less than the hole. Replaced all the bearings which I found one of each of all four from different vendors (Bob's wants about $100 per bearing, I found em about $25 each). I made my own carrier bearing wrench. I set it up with the original set of pinion shims and about 0.006" backlash and hoped for the best. There was plenty more I WANTED to do but I tend to overdo things. Thanks to everyone that helped. If I can answer any questions, let me know Thanks James C
  12. What is the "brush" type thing lower down in the steering column referred to as? For a 37 Special.
  13. Well, my transmission terminology is lacking but the sliding plates that the lever moves do not stay in place and in my case when you lift the lever back of the top of the trans to see what the heck is wrong, a chunk of spring falls into the bottom of the trans. Thanks kookie, that looks just right. Too bad I already bought a 6pack minimum order from a spring supplier. Hah. Jokes on me again.
  14. 1937 Buick Special 40 Somehow I broke the spring on the bottom of the shift lever. Anyone have any experience with procuring a replacement spring? I haven't messed with it yet; I just broke it and had to walk away. Thanks James C