70sWagoneers

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About 70sWagoneers

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  1. Yes, I re-ask if anyone knows any shop around the Mooresville or Charlotte NC area. I see it is fairly simple, i just want an experienced hand to do it. But it may turn out to be a learning experience. Thanks James C
  2. Im in Mooresville, NC. I so far cannot find anyone around here to remove and remount tires on my 1931 Auburn, split lock ring rims. Im almost willing to buy some tire irons and try myself, but it rather someone experienced with tires do it and check it for balance. Does anyone know anyone near Mootesville, NC that can do this? Also is,there anyone around here that can true these wheels also? Thanks James C
  3. If the motor was mostly run on non-detergent motor oil and has lots of oil sludge buildup, a detergent type motor oil may release a tidal wave of junk into your oil. So if you go with a detergent oil, id plan on doing ANOTHER oil change soon to clean everything out. Id use just a cheap oil first for your "wash" then refill with a good "hot rod" or "classic car" oil like Valvoline VR1 which has more zinc and moly. 10w-30 should be good barring other mechanical issues. I personally run synthetic 5w-30 in a low mileage '37 Special. For the transmission, id seek an oil with GL-4 specs. GL4 is safer for yellow metals which many older trans have. GL5 or GL6 may harm yellow metals. Napa has a StaLube oil which is GL4. This is also what i use in my differential because there are two thin brass shims in there. Im not sure about your diff. For rad fluid, i chose to go with the pet friendly propylen glycol style for i have pets, the cooling system is not a closed system and i prefer it for when it has to be changed and it inevitably gets everywhere. Otherwise theres no problem with the standard green. Id do some sort of coolant cleaner flush with CLR or stuff from auto parts store. James,C
  4. Just spent the last ten minutes lookimg for my copy of that book. Couldnt find it! I think the Standard Catalog is the solitary reference left of the Worldmobile. But that description is spot on with the hood. The coach work is good except the hood. It almost looks like its from another car and then someone bashed it in to match some cowl contours. A lot of the ancilliary parts are sort of propped up and lashed on. It was definitely a prototype made of a conglomerate of different brand pieces. But, I separated the water pump which took days filled with evaporust, razor blades hammered along the parting line, heat, and hammering. Thanks James C
  5. It is a orphan called a Worldmobile. It never went into production. Some say they were working on eight of them but this is the only one left. It has been pushed around for a long time but now the goal is to make it drivable AND preserve as much patina as possible. It is a survivor. But the water pump leaks like a seive and both gland nut are shattered and galled into their holes. So I also need some leads on where to get replacement gland nuts. Ill get size and thread count once i get the pump off. Thanks James C
  6. Found this pic of a lycoming cut-away engine. So that gear has to come off.
  7. And then what? I'm looking for all the direction I can get. Haven't worked on a engine like this before. Also I need new gland nuts... who is a good source for water pump parts? Thanks James C
  8. How do i remove the water pump from the timing chain/gear drive of a lycoming 2H? Do you pull the pulley off the front? Do i need to remove the front cover? If so Ive got to remove the radiator. Thanks James C
  9. So I finally solved my starter woes. Now Ive got new 2/0 soldered positive cable, new mesh type ground strap, new armature and field coils in starter, new Optima battery and an auxilliary ground cable that goes directly from starter to ground strap on battery. I fixed a few problems, but believe my battery was going bad as the main culprit. But the ground from starter to battery made a significant difference too. But this is on top of me welding nuts into the frame as my ground attachment points. So she starts so good now. Thanks everyone, on to the next thing James
  10. It was from Rhode Island Wire. So I actually just went to Napa and got a correct size 2/0 that fits right, looks better,and cheaper. Thanks everyone James
  11. Ive cleaned the connections and switch, and installed higher wattage white 6v LEDs in my '37 Buick. All lights work including the map and clock light. You cannot see the gauge cluster lights during the day. I always joke with passengers about how hard Ive worked on the lights and flick the switch on and off and ask excitedly "You see that?!". They always say no I dont see anything. But at night it decently lights the cluster up. So I'm just hoping thats as good as it gets. James
  12. I ordered 2/0 cable and a straight post clamp type battery terminal for my 6v Buick. First, the clamp says 3/0 but i went ahaead and soldered it. But then it actually seems to be the smaller neg terminal size, even though it has a "P" on it. Even after spreading the opening its still too small, but it would fit the neg great. Do you agree and/or am I crazy? Thanks James
  13. 1937 Special 248ci Is there a filter i can buy for this fuel pump glass? If not has anyone made their own? Is it just a mesh,rolled into a tube shape? Thanks again James
  14. Yes, 1/0 or 2/0 sounds like the way to go. My issue is starting. If my battery charger says 95% to full charge, I get about 20seconds total of cranking, and if she don't start, the battery is dead. And a lot of times, if everything is hot, the starter will barely turn the engine over. Ive taken any excess timing out of the distributor. Ive gone through the starter many times and have even changed out the armature which seemed to fix the problem for a while, but now I cant trust it again. The only thing left to change in the starter is the field windings. But, I want to make sure the battery cables aren't causing me problems first (changing field is a pain). Thanks everyone. James C
  15. Nice, Gary. I've added a few extra grounds too. I added one from generator to chassis. So 1gauge spins the starter well? The starter is my main problem at the moment. Thanks James