• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Good

About 70sWagoneers

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,293 profile views
  1. Thanks Gary! I'm missing everything except the horizontal hanger over the axle. I dont even have that plate that juts out over the rear of the muffler. But, funny enough, I do have the exact same generic hanger at the back of the frame. I'd really like to have the one at the front near the exhaust manifold because I'm scared of damaging the manifold. Where on the block does that attach? Maybe I could get lucky and find a modern clamp for the front of the muffler that looks right. Thanks James C.
  2. Yes, Helfand beat me to it. I used Mopar P/N 32004255. They were the closest to original as I could find. But they were a tad larger O.D. so I had to enlarge the washer surface on the manifolds a bit.
  3. 1937 Buick Special 40 Hello, I need help replacing all the exhaust hangers on Betty. I don't know what the correct ones look like and where they go. Now, there is one cobbled together hanger at the back of the muffler and some wire holding up the far end of the tailpipe. Can anybody help? I'd really like some pictures of type and placement on the car, but anything including part numbers would help. Thanks, James C
  4. Yes, I re-ask if anyone knows any shop around the Mooresville or Charlotte NC area. I see it is fairly simple, i just want an experienced hand to do it. But it may turn out to be a learning experience. Thanks James C
  5. Im in Mooresville, NC. I so far cannot find anyone around here to remove and remount tires on my 1931 Auburn, split lock ring rims. Im almost willing to buy some tire irons and try myself, but it rather someone experienced with tires do it and check it for balance. Does anyone know anyone near Mootesville, NC that can do this? Also is,there anyone around here that can true these wheels also? Thanks James C
  6. If the motor was mostly run on non-detergent motor oil and has lots of oil sludge buildup, a detergent type motor oil may release a tidal wave of junk into your oil. So if you go with a detergent oil, id plan on doing ANOTHER oil change soon to clean everything out. Id use just a cheap oil first for your "wash" then refill with a good "hot rod" or "classic car" oil like Valvoline VR1 which has more zinc and moly. 10w-30 should be good barring other mechanical issues. I personally run synthetic 5w-30 in a low mileage '37 Special. For the transmission, id seek an oil with GL-4 specs. GL4 is safer for yellow metals which many older trans have. GL5 or GL6 may harm yellow metals. Napa has a StaLube oil which is GL4. This is also what i use in my differential because there are two thin brass shims in there. Im not sure about your diff. For rad fluid, i chose to go with the pet friendly propylen glycol style for i have pets, the cooling system is not a closed system and i prefer it for when it has to be changed and it inevitably gets everywhere. Otherwise theres no problem with the standard green. Id do some sort of coolant cleaner flush with CLR or stuff from auto parts store. James,C
  7. Just spent the last ten minutes lookimg for my copy of that book. Couldnt find it! I think the Standard Catalog is the solitary reference left of the Worldmobile. But that description is spot on with the hood. The coach work is good except the hood. It almost looks like its from another car and then someone bashed it in to match some cowl contours. A lot of the ancilliary parts are sort of propped up and lashed on. It was definitely a prototype made of a conglomerate of different brand pieces. But, I separated the water pump which took days filled with evaporust, razor blades hammered along the parting line, heat, and hammering. Thanks James C
  8. It is a orphan called a Worldmobile. It never went into production. Some say they were working on eight of them but this is the only one left. It has been pushed around for a long time but now the goal is to make it drivable AND preserve as much patina as possible. It is a survivor. But the water pump leaks like a seive and both gland nut are shattered and galled into their holes. So I also need some leads on where to get replacement gland nuts. Ill get size and thread count once i get the pump off. Thanks James C
  9. Found this pic of a lycoming cut-away engine. So that gear has to come off.
  10. And then what? I'm looking for all the direction I can get. Haven't worked on a engine like this before. Also I need new gland nuts... who is a good source for water pump parts? Thanks James C
  11. How do i remove the water pump from the timing chain/gear drive of a lycoming 2H? Do you pull the pulley off the front? Do i need to remove the front cover? If so Ive got to remove the radiator. Thanks James C
  12. So I finally solved my starter woes. Now Ive got new 2/0 soldered positive cable, new mesh type ground strap, new armature and field coils in starter, new Optima battery and an auxilliary ground cable that goes directly from starter to ground strap on battery. I fixed a few problems, but believe my battery was going bad as the main culprit. But the ground from starter to battery made a significant difference too. But this is on top of me welding nuts into the frame as my ground attachment points. So she starts so good now. Thanks everyone, on to the next thing James
  13. It was from Rhode Island Wire. So I actually just went to Napa and got a correct size 2/0 that fits right, looks better,and cheaper. Thanks everyone James
  14. Ive cleaned the connections and switch, and installed higher wattage white 6v LEDs in my '37 Buick. All lights work including the map and clock light. You cannot see the gauge cluster lights during the day. I always joke with passengers about how hard Ive worked on the lights and flick the switch on and off and ask excitedly "You see that?!". They always say no I dont see anything. But at night it decently lights the cluster up. So I'm just hoping thats as good as it gets. James