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Friartuck

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Everything posted by Friartuck

  1. A. Woolf: What are the compression readings that you recorded? I would think something in the order of 90-110 pounds or better would be acceptable for this vintage engine. Remember that this forum is a tech exchange so listing these readings helps others. Chris
  2. I'm looking for a recommendation for a gasket sealer to be used between cast iron cylinders and an aluminum cranckcase. This is an older V-8 with two sets of 4 cyl jugs bolted onto the crankcase. Originally there was a paper gasket and some liquid sealer which notoriously would leak crankcase oil down the side of the crankcase. Obviously there are two different expansion rates going on here because of the different metals, so the sealer has to remain pliable. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  3. Message is for Roadster Rich or hopefully someone will relay this, Have sent several mails to the AACA listed mail address and they get returned. Also sent to web page address. Please check or revise as needed. Friartuck friartuck@monmouth.com
  4. My suggestion is use the West System from the Grudgeon Brothers. It's marine epoxy that is well known in the marine industry. Available at Marine supply stores. Pricey by the time you buy the cans and the mini pumps that regulate the mixture, but I think its worth it. Also consider Kwik Poly (now called XP-2000?) because it soaks into the wood very well (low viscosity) before it cures. See RoadsterRich's post on top bows and photos I posted. Those were done with West system.
  5. And the other photos..... The glue I used was the West System, available at Marine supply stores. It's pricey but worth it. I also like Kwik Poly (now XP2000?) for wood because it soaks into the wood then cures.
  6. Roadster Rich, I was faced with a similar delemia for my 30 Lincoln touring which has 5 bows. Yes, Oak Bows is a good source and his quality is well known, but for me it would have been $2,000 for finished peices. I tried the steam route and failed. You must have "green" wood which means oak that is freshly cut. I used the remaining wood and pieced mine together using a technique called ship lap joints. The benefit is perfect radius curves (cut on a bandsaw) and glued to the straight lengths. Make a jig on a piece of plywood and clamp to it. Use a router and a belt sander for the edges. See the pictures. Total cost $300 and satifisfaction that I did it myself. Better fit also, steam bent bows tend to want to go back straight. Chris
  7. Is there any chance of posting photos of this water jacket? If you found a replacement, aren't the chances good of it being in nearly the same condition? Using the existing jacket, couldn't this be cast in either bronze or aluminum (today's aluminum not depression era) and machined? What do other REO owners say if this might be a common problem and what's their solution.
  8. I'm looking for recommendations for the types and/or brand of lubrication (grease or heavy oil) that would be used on moving parts like spring shackles and brake pivot rods. All of these lubrication points have the Alemite fittings. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
  9. I'm planning on attending a National meet for the first time with a four wheel vehicle. The judging form states that a fire extinguisher is required with these ratings: "Type 10-B:C or 2 1/2 Lb Dry Chemical or Halon or 10 Lb Carbon Dioxide." My question is with the newer Halotron, which functionally replaces Halon 1211 (for environmental reasons), is it recognized by AACA and acceptable at National shows? Can anyone quote where it can be used or am I kidding myself for trying? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  10. I have used a special solder from a guy in southern california named Cecil Muggy. Cecil claimed to be a metalurgist from Boeing and made his solder in an inert environment. It's intended for the radiator business but doubles for use in pot metal repair, etc. I think his son now runs things at Muggy's page 1-866-684-4993. Its a low temp solder (350 degrees), but don't confuse it with the flea market beer can rods. On my 30 Lincoln, I successfully used it for the body which contained alot of impurities and nothing except Muggy's stuff worked. Not cheap, but it works. Thought this might be a good it for the honey comb delemia. Lincoln: 30 Lincoln Chris W.
  11. I would recommend going in stages, 1500, then 2000, then 2500. Jumping right to 2500 may not remove the 1500 scratches nor "flatten" the surface. Agree with 1937HD, use of a few drops of detergent will act as a lubricator during the sanding process. I've also used 3M products, but was very satisfied with the four stage Meguirs system.
  12. I'm asking the group to help identify an accessory mirror. I'm still learning how to use this forum, so I posted the pictures at: http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/Carmirror1.jpg http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/Carmirror2.jpg http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/Carmirror3.jpg I beleve the lines in the mirror maybe used to indicate the distance of the car behind, using the headlights as a gauge. A car futher back would have its headlights closer together as viewed through the mirror. What would have gone into the holes? Temerature and humidity gauges or Temp and a ?????? Was this a standard item on a particuler car or an aftermarket accessory from PEP Boys? For your trouble in looking, my recent restoration of my 30 Lincoln Touring: http://www.monmouth.com/~friartuck/30Linc-177(2).jpg And before some wise guy asks, no the mirror is not for the Lincoln. Thanks, Friar
  13. What is the correct finish for Schrader metal tire stem covers and Alemite grease fittings and covers? Could or should the Schrader stem cover (and the companion tire stem nut) be nickel or chrome plated for a show vehicle? Same question applies to the Alemite grease fittings, which plating and should it be a high luster or dull finish? Vehicle is a classic era Lincoln. Chris
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