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About tomwallace

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  1. Thanks for everyone's input. I will let you know the end of the story when it happens. tom
  2. I will get a few picts of the spots this weekend. I tried the CLR and vinegar but without results. But I do not want to damage the nickel. Maybe I will leave well enough alone. Perhaps what I see are just defects in the nickel but they are located next to the radiator spout. So I assume it is from radiator liquids that have spewed out when the previous owners drove it around. I do not have the formula or name for the blue paint color. I am taking the car to our Sept 15th Dayton Carillon Concours D'Elegance in over a week from now. I will post a few picts of the show. Thanks Tom Wallace Dayton, OH
  3. Should have posted a few photos. Here they are! I think it is a good looking vehicle. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH
  4. I just bought a 1926 Packard Victoria Coupe. The car is in really good shape. The nickel on the lamps and radiator is quite good. But there are noticeable water spots around the top of the radiator shroud and headlights. I used Wenol compound and polished for quite a while. I did not want to use anything harsher because I did not want to damage the nickel. I read about using dilute vineger but I was skeptical of it. Any advice how to remove the water spots? thanks Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH
  5. The oil rectifier was basically supposed to clean the oil while distilling off the gas, acids and water. Thus this would prolong oil life and one would not have to change oil so often. I understand the unit really didn't work and were often removed by the owner. Later in the production year, the unit was not offered by Packard. I just wanted to fill in the space but I wouldn't make it functional. Any leads appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH
  6. I just purchased a 1926 Packard Opera Coupe. It is in good condition and runs well. I am repairing the vacuum tank but it really just needs a bit of clean up. One item that is missing is the oil rectifier. As I understand, the rectifier was included in early production but in later production it was deleted. The unit apparently did not really function well and was often taken off and discarded by the owner. Apparently they were also used on other manufacturer's cars. The spot where the unit was placed looks "empty". I want to buy one and use it just as a "decorative' piece. I would not hook it up. I understand they are rare as hen's teeth but I was wondering if someone may have a unit sitting on their shelf. I found a good photo of the setup on the internet. P.S. What would you use on the carburetor as an air cleaner? Any leads appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH
  7. Here is the auction. $25,000.00 Sorry for not including the info. tom
  8. I saw an interesting Ebay auction for a 1926 Packard Model 41 326 Victoria Coupe. Seems like an unusual body style but I like it. It tried to research the body style on and but couldn,t find an exact match. Looks in pretty good shape. I wonder if it had a repaint long ago. Is it worth the asking price? Any comments welcome. Thanks Tom Wallace Dayton, OH
  9. Yes I believe that is the case. Remove a bolt and screw it in to the next slot to adjust the clutch. We just have not found the sweet spot yet. Thanks for your help. I await your scan of the manual tom
  10. Thanks for the info. I will try to look up that Dykes issue. tom
  11. Thanks a lot. We will check it closely when we get the clutch out again. Tom
  12. Nope, no clutch brake! That is another reason why we are stumped. Will probably have to take the clutch out and re-examine. Still looking for any diagrams or advice. Thanks Tom
  13. Hi all. I am completely the freshening up of my 1921 Premier Touring Car. One of its neat features is the Cutler-Hammer electromagnetic shift. After replacing the corroded wiring the unit works well. But we have an issue with the Borg & Beck clutch. It is a single plate clutch and we can’t seem to get the clutch adjusted. The clutched worked poorly before the last car show we attended. So we pulled the clutch. A broken ring of the facing material was just laying loose in the clutch; not riveted or glued to the plate. We thought that was odd. We had new material glued to the clutch plate. The throw-out bearing is good. We put the clutch back in. Now we can’t seem to adjust the clutch. There is a riveted tag on the clutch indicating how to adjust it but we haven't had success. My friend, a very well experienced mechanic, can’t seem to adjust the clutch. We can’t get the clutch to engage to shift it into any gear. The gears just grind. We can start the car while in gear (first or reverse) and with the clutch pedal pushed down. The clutch is grabby but the brakes do stop the car from moving. But at this point we still cannot shift the car into a different gear. Any ideas? Does anyone have a diagram or manual for the clutch? Tom Wallace Dayton, OH
  14. I was surfing Ebay and came across this 1930 LaSalle auction. Sounds too good to be true. Does anyone know the seller? The seller doesn't seem to have sold a lot of items in the past. Any red flags here? Comments appreciated. Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH