Friartuck

Contact Trans Bearing in NJ. They've been very good at supplying new sealed bearings for original open bearings. http://www.transbearing.net/

Looking for two snubber or stabilizer webbing clamps as pictured. These clamp the webbing strap onto itself after it wraps around the axle loop. I'm sure I could make these, but someone may have some good used ones in their box of goodies. Chris Wantuck (732) 530-1917 friar1340@gmail.com

Looking for one Gabriel Snubber webbing clamp as pictured. These clamp the webbing strap onto itself after it wraps around the axle loop. I'm sure I could make these, but someone may have some good used ones in their box of goodies. Added pictures in uncleaned condition. Chris Wantuck (732) 530-1917 friar1340@gmail.com

Also don't discard Grainger for certain items. Counter Service in larger cities as well as on line.

Three vendors should help: Restoration Specialties: http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ Steele Rubber: http://www.steelerubber.com/ Metro Rubber: http://www.metrommp.com/

The battery's ground lead should be connected directly to the engine block and a separate braided ground lead between the engine block and the frame. You don't want to route 500 Cold Cranking Amps through the frame first.

http://www.grainger.com/product/MOBIL-Gear-Oil-1MUC8 Also available in 5 Gal pails from auto and fuel oil/lubrication distributors. Use a large suction syringe to dispense into tranny: http://www.amazon.com/Sealey-Oil-Suction-Syringe-500Ml/dp/B004ZFDBMU

PPG's Epoxy Primer DPLF is rated for aluminum and is available in six colors. Google for the data sheets.

1934. Shape of the instrument cluster gives it away. Could be a KA, We only have the OP claim that it is a KB. Measure wheel base.

May I suggest American Trim in Oklahoma: http://www.atrim.com/Page14.html They offer #78002 tack strip and #70172 Metal tack strip.

I've used Prairie before and satisfied: Tom Sparrow at Prairie Auto Porcelain (17250 Cannon City Blvd. Faribault, MN. 55021. Tom's cell is 507-581-9887)

For headlights: Headlight Headquarters Donald I. Axelrod 35 Timson St. Lynn, MA 01902 781-598-0523

OMFD: I've found these two resources helpful when rebuilding my Stromberg 0-3 updraft: http://old-carburetors.com/1927-Dykes.htm http://carburetor-manual.com/abc-of-carburetion-2.php

The original poster says it works just at a hotter temp, meaning its still is a sealed unit. Likely it lost its alcohol. You must use Ethel Alcohol. If you pull the unit you should find a small hole soldered over. Unsolder the hole, add approximately 25-30 percent of the units volume with Ethel Alcohol and resolder the hole. Test in a pot of water on the stove, while keeping track of the temp and the units movement. If the temp that makes it move is still too high, add more alcohol. You must use Ethel Alcohol, not Isopropyl alcohol. Ethel has the lowest boiling point of the family of alcohols. When the alcohol boils, it expands against the bellows, hence why it must be sealed to work. Ethel alcohol is available at hobby shops or science/lab suppliers. Hint: Methanol Alcohol is used in Dry Gas and could be used, though I would wait for the right stuff. If you wanted, you could use a blow gun with rubber tip against open hole before filling to perform a leak down test. Start with no more than 5 PSI and observe the movement of the bellows. If it doesn't hold, there's a leak that must be sealed.

It would be helpful if the type of car is stated. There is no typical in restoration, especially when dealing with rust and panel fabrication & replacement. When seeking a shop get references and ask previous customers one question: Would you have that shop do another car for you? It is more important to find the right shop for your car rather than locality. Panel fabrication, body prep, and paint could range from 600 to 1,000 hours or more. Do the math at an average rate of $80-$100.

Curti, This article might provide some valuable info on your new trailer: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/trailering-1.cfm

Because the condensers of a model L Lincoln were mounted under the points plate and required complete disassemble, in the interest of time and convenience it was common practice to "hang" condensers on the outside of the distributor on the low voltage coil wires. It works but unsightly. Bite the bullet and replace the ones under the point plate. A NAPA condenser (DR-70) fits nicely, but will require extending the lead a little. I believe where the condenser is mounted makes a difference hence why they are mounted closest to the points. Mounting condensers directly on the coil (6 feet of wire away) may not provide the full benefit to the points.

Rusty's explanation above is essentially correct. To test use an analog (needle) type Volt Ohm Meter aka multimeter, connect the test leads to the condenser and using the RX1 ohm resistance scale, flip between the positive and negative polarity switch settings (assuming your meter has this feature). If not switch the test leads quickly. The needle should swing across towards zero and gradually rescind as the condenser charges. This is not a full proof test, but intended to check if the condenser is shorted. If you have a newer type digital meter, it may have a capacitance scale and you can simply check the condenser value. Typical auto condenser values would be .22 to .27 Micro Farads (uF). I would favor newly manufactured condensers versus NOS as the older ones may have the insulating paper breaking down and shorting out the condenser.

1928 model 443. The first pic shows where the body was cut, just at the golf bag door. Could have been made as a fire chief's car.

Yes, 10 quarts for a model L engine. This is listed on page 129 under capacities of the Shop Manual, reproduced by the Lincoln Owners Club (LOC).

Did you look at Gudan?? http://www.guden.com/Item/Cold-Rolled-Steel-Continuous-Hinges-075-250-Leaf-Thickness/PS10090808-72 Supposedly a B series Mack and others use similar hinges. While NLA from Mack, it maybe another source to investigate.

Once cleaned I was going to suggest coating the inside with Glyptal as well. Dupont makes a nice Alum for the exterior.

Not only consider the building, but interior features. Visit http://www.garagejournal.com for more info

1917 Maxwell engine; oil pan, block, head, crankshaft, rods, pistons as an assembly. No manifolds, generator, distributor (timer), water pump, etc. Supposedly the cylinders and rings were worked on in the past 20 years, but can’t confirm. $400 and can deliver to Hershey this year or FOB. Chris W. (732) 530-1917 friar1340@gmail.com

There may be a short somewhere in the circuit. This could be the wire from the sending unit is touching ground somewhere or the sending unit is defective like it's getting hung up at the full position. Remove the wire from the sending unit and observe the gauge. The gauge needle should not move (reads empty). If you have access to an electrical multimeter, measure the resistance between the sending unit connection and ground. Typical resistance values should be zero ohms for full tank (float at highest point) and somewhere between 25 and 100 ohms (or more) when the tank is empty (float in lowest position). Try shoving the car side-to-side to move the gas in the tank and and the float and observe the multimeter. Does the multimeter show varying results proving the sending unit is working properly. Was the replacement sending unit the correct one for that vehicle or a generic one? Did you connect and operate the sending unit before installing in the tank, going from float at highest to lowest? bending the arm maybe all that is needed. You may have to include a small resistor in the wire to the sending unit. This would calibrate the gauge to a full tank of gas and the gauge reading exactly at the full mark. This is a trial and error procedure. Start with a single 10 ohm resistor and observe the results. Add higher value resistors to adjust the needle to the full mark. When the sending unit was made, they should have taken this into account, but its not an exact science. An exact method is to use a 0-100 ohm variable resistor and adjust the knob for a full tank reading. Then remove the variable resistor and read that resistance value when disconnected from the tank using the multimeter. Get a single resistor closest to that value. If you use 1/2 watt resistors you should be fine. Please report back what you find. This is a good learning type question. This thread reveals some useful info: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=662674