Friartuck

Another source for specialty paper (both both ink jet and laser jet printers) to make water transfer decals is Papilio: Papilio Inkjet Media We use them to make decals for our R/C model airplanes.

Have you posted this question to the Packard discussion forum?? You likely will get a better response. Packard Motor Car Information - Packard Literature and Manuals

www.tarjac.com Correct link

I didn't bother using a kit, I selected my base coat color based on what I wanted (mahogany) and used printers ink (a very black paste type of ink) and a cheesecloth to make the swirls to resemble the burl and grains in the wood. If you goof, you can wipe clean and try again. After drying, applied clear coat over the entire assembly (polish as normal) and looks fabulous. Wear disposible gloves, printers ink is not forgiving in staining your hands & fingers.

Don, Pretty much what has been said, replicate the wooden frame and strengthen the existing if necessary. Get familiar with Kwik Poly (www.kwikpolylllc.com) That may save you some agravation for the salvaging existing wood. As for metal work, a Discussion Forum member had a nasty accident with his Spartan trailer and the insurance adjuster steering him to a local aviation tin smith. With the private plane industry on its ass, you might find one in your area aggreeable to take on a special project. Also there are News Groups for many vocations like machining, wood working and you guess it; Tin smiths. These are the guys that make suits of armor and are real craftsman. Do a google search and consider that avenue. As for nails, the Model A restorers like Brattons has stainless oval heads or look at Restoration Supply in Escondido, CA (www.restorestuff.com) I think this is their website. Take before and after photos and post on the Restoration Page, many could benefit from your project.

The original post says the drain is rusted shut which provides a clue as to the health of the tank. Reliable vehicle operation depends on many systems working properly, fuel being one of them. Ask yourself how much is the cost and aggravation of getting stuck on the side of the road with a clogged fuel line all because the tank wasn't cleaned properly. There never seems to be enough time to do the job right the first time, but there always seems to be enough the second time around! Drop the tank, fix the drain plug and clean the tank. Afterwards, slosh with tank sealer. You'll be happier in the long run.

Sealer is usually sold in quart size cans. Pour in the entire quart and slosh around as mentioned. Approximately 1/2 to 1 cup will be left which needs to be poured out after sloshing. This excess which is not enough for a second tank, could also be used in a vacuum tank (if you have one) to seal the outer tank. Otherwise dispose of it properly (let air dry to a solid and discard).

In reading this thread, I don't see where Owen's suggestion of using clay or other soft material between the impeller and the flat plate was performed and measured (plasti-gage on hormones). Given the impeller distance is set via a pin and the shaft doesn't have much end play, the dimension should be taken with the gasket taken in account. You may have to build up the impeller base (silver solder or maybe powder coated??) and sand/file to the right dimension.

The selection of the Gas Tank Sealer is important as well as the method for its application. Shown is a 20 Gal tank with multiple bafffles and holes between them. Its suspended on a three point rope to easily rotate and flip the tank around to make sure the sealer covers every surface and seam. I used the US Standard sealer offerred by POR: US STANDARD TANK SEALER-POR-15 Inc. Judging by the few drops/blobs that are on my garage concrete apron after 14 years, I'd say its as permanent as you can get. Be sure to pour out the excess after the gymnastics excercise! Having a helper and yourself holding the tank in all positions will tire you out quickly and you'll likely get an incomplete job. Since the sealer moves slowly like molasis, the rope sling approach ensures all sides, angles, baffles, seams, etc get coated. Take it slow, be thorough, should take at least 2 hours to coat the whole inside before pouring out the excess. Let air dry for one week.

Post this question on the Jeep Forums, specific to your model. You'll likely get more detailed response: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/

How about including a picture? What make starter unit?? The DELCO starter-generator on a mid 20's Lincoln has long bolts recessed in the crankcase (flywheel) that are accessible from the rear of the engine (easiest if floor boards are up).

Bob, Brillman Company #884L Battery Disconnect Chris

If the Renu liner came off with hot water and steam, then I'm not impressed with it. I'd hate for some to have to cut into a perfectly good tank just to remove it. I think I would try a chemical method before cutting into it. Cutting is a last resort. In either case, good you got it this far. FYI, I have used POR gas tank sealer with no problems, yet.

The friction rear shocks, inner and outer rear brakes, and bead/shape on the front fender should be clues.

I agree with Owen_Dyneto, a hinge style mounted mirror offers greater flexibility in it can be top of the upper hinge, be sturdier than an edge mount, and not distress the door skin of an edge mount. Jay Fisher in Central NJ makes great mirrors with hinge mount provisions, but not the special hinge pin itself. A custom hinge pin can be machined locally.

Auto Color Library - The World's Largest Online Color-Chip Library Library shows Marine Blue as Code IM-686 for series 70.

One would think that RENU would like to know why their product failed.

The info I have is this was fabricated by someone.

Two other suppliers are Hirsch auto in Newark , NJ and SMS Auto Fabrics in Oregon.

You might consider capillary tubing from a commercial refrigeration supply house for the line between the sending unit and the gauge, depending on how long you need. Most kits (Ford V-8) include tubing too short for what you need.

What about Laser engraving? https://www.customlaserdesign.com/Metals.php

John, I suspect the two holes are for a simple pin pressed in to the wood handle and through the brass sleeve. I don't recall ever seeing a threaded locking pin (fastener) in a wood peice. For wiring, you can use 16-18 gauge teflon coated wire from Beldin (available from Newark Electroncs) (its what I use for rebuilding cigar lighters) and cover the wires with parachute cord which is hollow to give it the old cord appearance. Restoration Supply in Escondido, CA sells electrical connectors that host both single and dual pin bulbs, have threads on the outside shank for screwing into a handle and have small screw terminals for the wires. You could screw this connector into the existing handle or make a new handle on a lathe with a drop or two of epoxy to keep it from twisting off. If you want to go real crazy with this spot light project, nickel plate the reflector and then send it to UVIRA for their special coating.

Folks, There are two things I didn't see mentioned: 1) length of T-8 bulbs and 2) use of electronic ballasts. T-8 bulbs seems to be available in four foot lengths, and not in eight foot long replacements for the T-12. And in bi-pin connections, not single pin as some T-12's have. If there are eight foot T-8's they seem to be the minority. Probably easily to manufacture & supply a whole lot of four foot versions than carry both four and eight footers. Conversion T-12 to T-8's: two eight footers to four four footers in the same fixture. Ballasts that are electronic (not magnetic) have two ratings, one for commercial and one for residential. Multi voltage (120-277 Volt) ballasts are intended for commercial applications to account for simpler installation in multi voltage commercial buildings and do not have good RFI suppression. Ballasts that are rated for residential application (120 Volt) have better RFI suppression. The result without suppression is buzzing noise while listening to radios, both AM and FM stations. It is harder (next to impossible) to find residential ballasts at home stores and most T-8 fixtures come with commecial ballasts (at least the four bulb eight foot long versions). Even going to a electrical supply house didn't carry residential grade ballasts. There are some filters that can be installed on the input line side of the connection, but they have limited effect. Best advice is to buy a good quality fixture that has a residential ballast (some GE and Sylvania) that meets FCC Class B requirements. Good connections with very good grounds and not sharing your radio and lights on the same circuit helps. More on this topic is at: Electronic Ballasts and Radio Noise - The Garage Journal Board Chris Wantuck

I agree with the other posters on this. Retaining and fitting the bearing maybe the least of the concerns. I would make a pattern and have it cast, perhaps in silica bronze.

For Sale: Aftermarket Trunk Rack that fits a '74 MGB Roadster. Suppose it can be used on other models as well. This is the flat version unlike the factory version that is curved (more practical??). Some surface rust in a few joints will likley clean off with cleaners and polishing. $20.00 plus shipping from NJ. Chris friar1340@gmail.com (732) 530-1917