fordmerc

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About fordmerc

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  1. A "copper wire ring - (not gasket) " is adamantly specified in the rear axle manual to be placed on the studs before re-installing the differential carrier. No one has ever heard of this, much less know where to get them. How critical is this? Is there any alternative? [The ones I removed at disassembly looked like crush washers (?), but thinner. perhaps 1 mm flat width and .2 mm thick]
  2. fordmerc

    rear axle ratio

    I got the answer ! The stamped number on my case matches the number of teeth on the ring gear divided by those on the pinion gear! Thanks for the education!
  3. fordmerc

    rear axle ratio

    How can I determine rear axle ratio (without counting teeth) I know my choices are 4.54:1 or 4.36:1 car is '41 120 with OD - carrier case stamped with "319965 T 2 " car built before 5/21/41
  4. I just completed one axle removal ! I welded a 7/8 14 nut to a 5/8 12 nut, used a piece of threaded rod screwed into the smaller nut, attached the larger to the axle, slipped a 1" pipe over the rod, placed a large washer on the end of the rod and a bolt to hold it in place , and voila ! ... a poor man's slide hammer effective for this purpose ! [A word of caution to all who might try this: make sure the car is far enough from the garage wall to allow axle removal - preferably more than the 2 inches I had left.]
  5. Both solutions are brilliant! -as is the use of the slide hammer for insertion leverage and support. Thank you!
  6. Packard manuals (46-50) describe "Puller J-2552" which looks to be a slide hammer system to remove the axle. It seem to be attached to the axle at the end of the axle where the axle nut would be. Is this understanding correct? -this seems like a lot of pull on the threads (?) Would this apply also to a '41 120? The final question is how to get such an attachment since contemporary slide hammer systems don't seem to screw on to an axle? Comments and advice on removing my rear axle will be appreciated. [ Reason for removal is a noise in the rear end that doesn't sound good.]
  7. I have a noise when the car ('41 120) is in overdrive: under car, approx 120-150 per min at low speed, a "knocking" pitch, not so noticeable at 30 mph but I didn't push beyond that. Intensity not enough to make me park it but on the way home I was nervous. Probably present at end of last season but frightening now. I would appreciate comments on possible causes or troubleshooting to be done.
  8. Does the 12 transmission have the access plate/cover which can be removed from below? (That provided easy access on my 120.)
  9. Right side hood latch "pops out" if I hit a bump - and sometimes on it's own. ( '41 120 sedan) The hood is then loose but not quite free enough to open. What adjustments can I make to solve the problem? I have looked and tried some minor adjustments to no avail. Troubleshooting suggestions welcomed.
  10. I was concerned about that so I will pursue that issue. Any other suggestins will be welcomed.
  11. R9 overdrive is intermittent: sometimes it works perfectly. Other times it won't go into overdrive until after I hit a pothole (!) and then it works fine for a while. Another bump may stop the car from going into overdrive. I would appreciate comments and suggestions about prevention and cure.
  12. One hood latch on my '41 120 pops open easily. I think the front end of the rod-latch mechanism is the problem but it looks like the other side so far as I can tell. Are there any adjustments to be made to assure that it stays locked in place? Can anyone tell me if the bolts that hold the rod in place at the front are attached to nuts (which are inaccessible) or are they bolted into a fixed plate?
  13. All is now well: judicious application of a thin putty knife to both sides of the disc freed it. The car is running fine! With the locating pins almost flush with the flywheel housing they did not present a problem for cover re-installation but I must admit that I used them to align holes for the cover bolts. Thanks to all for help.
  14. I suspect you hit the nail on the head: I can see that the disc remains stuck to the flywheel even when , with the clutch depressed, I can see that the two disc sides are separating; we have had incredible humidity this past few weeks. I like the approach to resolution which I will try. Other solutions like starting the car in gear with wheels off the ground and then applying brakes , or dropping the car onto the ground while running in gear sound like disasters waiting to happen.