Friartuck

Jeff, I'll start this reply with a quote from Jean Shepherd: The color of the car faded to Goat Vomit Green. How's that for a description. I think the description would be enough to create your own formula, but if you want to try to stick to standard colors, may I suggest the Auto Color Library. The pale orange may have been a custom concocsion anyway. The Rogers book of varnishes of 1914 book may help narrow it down: AutoColorLibrary.com Whatever you choose, the effort you are undertaking will be appreciated.

Joe, A typical six volt system should use larger AWG sizes than a comparible twelve volt system. The voltage drops are deceiving, therefore my suggestions: Head lights: 12 AWG, 14 AWG minimum Accessory (heater fan, etc): 12 AWG, 14 minimum Charging (generator to amp meter, meter to ignition switch, etc.): 10 AWG Ignition: 14 AWG Horn: 14 AWG courtesy/parking lights: 14 AWG 16 minimum Tail lights: 14 AWG Since your tackling this, consider adding a master disconnect switch somewhere in a discrete location and use 1-0 (one ott) cables with appropriate sized terminals. Also suggest adding a two terminal molex connector concealed under the dash for a battery tender connection while the car is stored. Radio Shack carries these male-femaile polarized molex connectors and only 18 AWG wire is needed, connected to the live side of the disconnect switch. The attached picture mounts the disconnect switch in the right side kick panel. Note the generous amount of rubber backing used behind the switch and the metal body. Also two red wires are included, one for the battery tender and the other is for keep alive for the electric clock (while at a show). A helpful article since you mentioned soldering your termianal connections: http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_06_fall.pdf

The single contact bayonette twist connector is available from Restoration Supply (Restore Stuff , but the threaded locking nut appears to be unique. You may have to improvise some method of fastening/adapting to your cowl lamp. Another suggestion is to contact Brian at Classic and Exotic Services in Troy Michigan: http://www.classicandexotic.com/index.htm They tend to run into odd connectors, etc.

The Brillman company in Virginia is also a source for period correct wire (vinyl coated that is cloth covered). While rewiring your Briscoe, use adequate gauge wire (14 or 12 gauge) and make good terminal connections as discussed in this article: http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_06_fall.pdf

Grainger lists two of Mobil's DTE series fluid in 1 gallon containers, DTE 24 and the higher viscosty DTE 25.

http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_08_summer.pdf Since this article was written, things have changed abit. It is now possible for phone, GPS, and other electronics devices to run off USB power which is 5.0 volts. The 6 volts used on prewar cars is close to run the devices directly, however the one problem that will come into play is filtering of both the generator and ignition noise. Most modern vehicles have good filters. I don't know of a regulator and filter combo from that operates 6 volts to USB 5.0 volts. Someone in Sweden makes the regulator without filtering and some comments about GPS operation have been posted.

Andreas, Consider repairing it with special solder product from Muggyweld: Pot Metal Repair and Restoration I have personally used it successfully for pot metal trim repairs. After repair, plate as normal.

Suggest using a volt ohm meter directly on the starter terminal and monitor the voltage while starting the car. It should read 5.0-5.5 volts. You have to expect at least 0.5 to 1.0 volt drop through the cables and switch. If you get a reading of 4.0 volts or less, then check the cables and connections. All connections must be soldered and cable sized at least 1 0 (1 OTT). If you are getting at least 5.0 volts, then suspect the starter unit needs to be overhauled. Field windings may have shorted together or as suggested, brushes and their connections may be the culprit. Also monitor the voltage at the coil while starting. The same applies. If the voltage is low (3-5 volts) while starting then it will be weak spark. This will depend where the coil lead is connected

The relay should not be getting hot. Even though the coil is rated for 6 volts make sure the contacts are rated for the 15+ amp load. Other thing to look for: are the connections good, firmly crimped and soldered? Are you using 12 gauge wire? Heat is a sign/result of unwanted resistance.

I used the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors in Columbia, PA (www.nawcc.org) to repair a 30's vintage electric wind up dash clock.

George, here in the states there is an industrial supplier called McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) they carry a complete line of round and square pump packing material in regular and graphite impregnated versions. Would think there is a similar supplier on your side of the pond.

Curti, Plate the whole wiper housing and lightly sand or grind with small rotary tools (dremel drum sander, etc) of the mating surfaces or unwanted plating areas. If doing a TRICO Wiper motor, block sand the both mating flanges. Owen: Kindly elaborate on platers tape with a product (brand name) and part number.

Mike Barnes, When the ignition is turned on, a small amount of current is supplied to the armature circuit which makes the armature spin slowly so that the gears engage when the starter pedal is depressed. The first part of depressing the starter pedal disengages a small brass finger switch just above the starter brushes which interupts the current going to the armature (generator) circuit. Further depressing the pedal engages a differant set of brushes for the starter. After the engine starts and the starter pedal is raised, the finger switch reengages the generator circuit. If the generator is spinning after the ignition is off, one possible reason is the armature wire that is routed in between the heavy gauge starter field coils and the case is getting shorted against those coil wires. Those heavy gauge starter coils are always connected to the battery. The armature wire cloth insulation likely deteriated causing the short. Disconnect the armature brush wire from the brush and use continuity meter to verify the short. Remedy is to route a new wire through the coils from finger switch to the armature brush. Tricky to do if the DELCO unit is in the car, better if the unit is out of the car. An article on the DELCO unit for Lincoln is at: Lincoln Model L Engine Compartment Detail Information

Use Mobil's 600 Weight Steam oil, (also called Cylinder oil). Grainger offers it: MOBIL Cylinder Oil, 600 W Super, 5 Gallon - Oils - 4DNJ6|98E763 - Grainger Industrial Supply Suggest using a grease gun shaped syringe available from NAPA or maybe even Grainger. Makes squirting it in to tight places much easier.

Andreas, Excellent!! Looks like you got the part you needed. It appears to be an enrichment needle when the choke linkage is fully extended, similar to my Stromberg. The brass stem in the photo may be the remains of the old one. Keep us updated on the fuel bowl repair. Doing so helps us all here on the Discussion Forum on how to resolve problems.

Andreas, Use the black and white diagram and enlarge it on a Xerox copier to dimensions that make it actual size. The actual size diagram of arm q becomes a template on top of brass flat stock. The machinist who is doing the carb repair should be able to do this. Its unclear what function arm q and head q' actully perform. Are you sure your carb and the one depicted in the diagram are the same? Color picture has a vertical brass stem or something just right of a bowl screw and B/W diagram does seem to include that stem.

carbking's response is rather strong to say the least. 1. What carb solutions have other Auburn owners used? Suggest contacting Richie Fass at Stone Barn index Rich has Auburns. 2. Are there any suitable updraft substitutes such as Stromberg, etc? 3. What other makes/Marques used Schleber and inquire from them on reliablity.

My initial suggestion as others have said: 1. make up a round core out of either corian or ceramic based material and build up the broken area using a welding rod made for cast iron (Arc or Tig). Muggyweld (www.muggyweld.com) has such rods available. I'd be concerned about welding in such a small space. Sleeve the inside using brass, even if it means the diameter is slightly smaller. 2. The same concept as above, You could investigate using some of the polymers/epoxies from Devcon. The Titanium Putty (http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_124.pdf) is rated for gasoline applications, though I'd be concerned as its constantly immersed in gas as to how it would hold up. Its worth looking into. If you go this route, apply thin oil or cover the round cylinder with wax paper to remove it. Let us know how it turns out

Skip has done the engine turning for both of my dash boards. Skip Boyer, 1348 Carlisle Pike, Hanover, PA 17331 (717) 632-0670 richboy2@comcast.net

Tom, Owen's response is precisely what I would recommend. Do the spiral method from inside out at 45 pounds, repeat for 55, and then final at 65 pounds.

Agree with others that a bearing supply house such as Transbearing (Trans Bearing Co., Inc.) should have these. Also, McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) has something called Guide Tab washers like McMaster-Carr

The Pneumatic stapler I use is a RAINCO 7C-16 available from American Trim Supply in Oklahoma (American Trim & Upholstery Supply - foam cushions & upholstery supplies). Suggest getting both 3/8 and 1/2 inch long staples. Note the velcro strap that holds the trigger lock, the only issue I have with this stapler.

The instructions for battleship Linoleum as I remember call for a mastic adhesive to be used, troweled at something like 1/16 X 1/16. When pressure is applied and rolled out it makes a thin layer between the surface and the burlap fibers. IMO, a peice of unglued linoleum may bubble in the middle when in the hot sun.

Phil, please post full contact information for the plater you used. Chris

Harry, Two sources not mentioned are Restoration Supply: Restoration Supply Company -- Featured Product and Brettuns Village Trunk parts: BrettunsVillage.Com - Come on In! would think a local Equestrian shop should be able to help. Chris W.