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Ovalrace25 last won the day on September 27 2017

Ovalrace25 had the most liked content!

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About Ovalrace25

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  • Birthday 05/04/1950

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    Cars Cars Car Stuff More Cars - Motorcycles Airplanes Boats - Oh, and cars

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  1. yes that is a Pierce Arrow behind it. and a 1970 Dodge Charger R/T
  2. OK--- NEW information! I now have the chassis number for the car! 24/AM170 This confirms it is a real MARCH chassis! Built in 1970. Now it can be identified and anyone that knows how to check history for this car can check the records. I FINALLY got help from someone that really did know where to look for the number and I went right to it! ALL the other guys that claimed to know where it was were totally WRONG WRONG WRONG! Price NOW--- $9500 -- It should be in the hands of someone that will get it back on the track!
  3. These are on the front fenders of a 20/25 Rolls Royce 1927 model. I have purchased a set from a person that must have a different measuring device than I, because they are far too large. So here is a set of photos of what I need. The small one is almost too big in diameter. PLEASE LOOK CLOSE. The diameter of the beehive is the important measurement because of the bezel that has to fit over the beehive. About 1.800 at base of beehive is actually a bit too large, but could work if no other hope. 1.535 with O'.. just under 2" would be perfect.
  4. YES! duh-- what was I thinking? And also airplanes used the canvas... Dang--- OK--- Now I have a few marbles in place and have something to work with.
  5. Who is a good supplier of and what material grain types is my question of the day. I am doing a 1926 "woodie" and need to select the proper grain and material type for this project. PROBLEM is color will NOT be black. Looking for dark green or chocolate brown. Anyone?
  6. WHO has these items? Any help out there? I cant get response from Gary Goers. I know he was looking for someone to take over his company. Anyone?
  7. I kept fiddling around with the ignition switch and squirting penetrating oil into it and got it to work- So now I dont have to remove it. But the top flow control valve still is a problem. Anyone know if these cars have similar system as the Cadillac? (electric flow control valve under the carpet)
  8. OK-- First one, how do I remove the ignition switch? What is the secret? Second-- Top goes down does not switch to go up-- Push the TOP "button and it goes down -- PULL it still goes down.. Car was in storage since 1964 --- Nice old Lincoln if we can sort out a few things..
  9. Anyone drive a Studebaker? Anyone had your Borg Warner transmission rebuilt? The DG200 and DG250 are similar. BOTH have a lock-up converter. I am thinking this is where the problem is. Keep in mind, the car sat for a few years. But in a dry clean garage. Before it was driven, all fluids changed. BUT the converter was not drained. Only after the first test drive when the problem was found, then major transmission service, including valve body inspection, governor inspection and air pressure test to ports.
  10. I am probably not using the correct terms here... So MANY variations of plastics! ALL of the outer "plastic" came off very easy. The "rubbery" clear material between the outer 1/4" plastic also removed very easy, actually falling off... NOW I have the two curved glass pieces 1/2" EACH to pull apart in order to removed the discolored material between them. These are not laminated "safety glass" pieces. They have not been bonded by pressure/temp. process. Total thickness of three layers of glass, plastic and rubber binding layer, 1 3/8"
  11. It is not a hard epoxy---- It is a rubbery-like material that looks and feels like a silicone material. But sticks like glue.
  12. The poly will be replaced- the glass is nice, but has the silicone type material between the glass that is foggy. Easy to clean the glass, but not until I can get the pieces apart. The car is almost ready for the glass... Think about what wet concrete/fiberglass mixture did to the doors and exterior sheet metal.. All the exterior panels rusted from inside out. Roof had a layer of mortar and a kevlar/cloth type material under a typical vinyl top covering. So it too was rotted and had begun to collapse into the pristine interior. The car will be part of a museum collection of other cars (some with interesting history) located in Vienna Austria. This car having been purchased by the DOJ Washington DC to include the presidential flag holders, dual electrical systems, radio gear and hidden lights and siren and assigned to the northern area of Los Angeles California, kind of takes on some kind of Presidential Use??? Yes, I have the log book!
  13. I really dont want to get into this--- Last SEVERAL projects were all huge nightmares! But here go a few comments. The master cylinder IS lower than the calipers. You NEED residual check valves... Going bigger on the master cylinder only gives you a pedal so hard you cant stop... BLEEDING the system to get ALL the air out is a huge game to play! The rear calipers that have the park brake lever (GM units) require a particular procedure to insure they are properly adjusted before you try to bleed the system. DO NOT use silicone fluid! That in itself causes a "spongy/soft" pedal. Remember, the car stopped OK with stock drum brakes-- Adding front disc only, will help it more-- the rear brakes contribute the smaller percentage of stopping power, so what change them at all? Betcha could have skidded to a stop with the original system! It was the rear brakes skidding, not the front.. So if you want to stick with the 4-wheel disc and keep the master under the floor.. FINE-- Get the Electric Power Booster Master Cylinder kit and be done with all this! (do a google search) The car will stand on its nose when you touch the brakes. BUT only if you have some big rubber on the ground! if you have original tire size or reproductions, you will still-- Just Skid.
  14. OK-- Did I get your attention? HOPE SO! I am working on the 76 Cadillac "BULLET PROOF" limo surplussed out by the DOJ. All the windows are curved and "glued" together consisting of an outer layer of Polycarbonate sheet 1/4" thick. Under that are two solid 1/2" layers of glass. Between each of the three pieces is some type of rubber material (silicone?) and a type of clear epoxy that seals and binds all three layers into one unit. VERY HEAVY! What has happened is, the 1/4" poly has gone bad and crazed. I have removed all of that and have the glass exposed, However, there has been some degradation of the "epoxy" material holding these together. This is where I need some help to remove this material, binding the glass together so I can clean and polish the glass. I have tried Acetone, Lacquer thinner and some solvents. Nothing works. I have also taken one of the windows (yep, the smallest one) to a couple glass companies and they dont want anything to do with it and zero help. Any ideas???
  15. I just bought a decent looking 58 Ford Fairlane from a guy in Phoenix and am trying to get it to the DAS terminal Problem is he can not get it there himself. DAS can pick it up from his house next Monday or Tuesday, but that wont work for him, he will not return until next Thursday of Friday. That creates a second problem for me because I am taking my 89-year old Mom to see her sisters in Colorado which puts me GONE when DAS wants to deliver to me. DANG Complicated stuff just to get the car home! If I go into how complicated it has been to get the car paid for and the title signed, I could write a book! He is over off of East Cactus near Paradise Valley Mall. I think the DAS terminal is 10 miles away at 1966 E. Deer Valley Dr. Anyone available to go for a short ride in a 58 Ford today or tomorrow? I'll buy lunch at El Charro... Anyone tried this place in Mesa on 1st st off of Country Club lately? Still good?