Friartuck

I think I would trust a mechanical method before an adhesive solution. Can the float be held in place on the slotted brass strip with copper wire and soldered, sort of like a cage around the float??

IMHO, if these are C.M. Hall lights, they should have the diamond logo engraved on top of the light bucket.

Bill, Sounds like you solved the problem. If it were to go hot it would have done it already. One improvement to consider if the pump has to come out again is installing sealed bearings.

Purchasing and restoring this will be a significant challenge. Plan on about 3-5 years part time (minimum of about 3 thousand hours). You should have a space dedicated to it for that length of time. When purchasing it look for hard to find parts like: 1) interior trim parts like door pulls, window cranks and their eschusions, interior courtesy lights and switches, 2) exterior door handles and their mounting eschusions, 3) Hood latches and hinge, 4) tail and head lights, 5) Running board sheet metal and its trim, 6) Engine parts and special electrical loom peices for the ignition, 7) Instrument panel and gauges, 8) fenders and fender mounting hardware, 9) Radiator, radiator shell, mascot/motometer. Check for wood rotting where it meets the frame. Anything that you see bad or missing is a price negotiating point. If this is your first total restoration project, put together a budget that will conform to your situation and focus on mechanical aspects like engine and drive line running to ensure you have a viable working auto. Get mechanically sound before dealing with the cosmetics. A significant restoration tool are photos (preferably a video) of a complete unrestored sample of your model car. Email me for other ideas. IMHO $3-4K is the current value, not $5K. Chris Wantuck friar1340@gmail.com

Microfasteners caters to the model aviation hobby: http://www.microfasteners.com/home.php?cat=700 Gardner-Westcott offers both stainless and plated fastners: http://www.gardner-westcott.com/ Not sure why a polished stainless fastner cannot be substituted for a nickel plated version??

Another source for resins/tints for the hobby is Smooth-On plastics, Easton, PA. I don't know about ribbed linoleum, but flat linoleum in various colors is available from Lauria in West Chester, PA.

Mark, Colors for the 1920's and 30's tend to be conservative, expecially for sedans or closed cars. Roadsters or Phaetons could have been painted with more vibrant or brighter colors. Of course there are exceptions. There may be 15 basic colors, but many shades of these. A suggestion is to use a graphics program (perhaps even microsoft paint) and make up color swatch sheets for comparison. Have them printed out at Staples using a laser printer on glossy photo color paper. When you get a combo that satisfies you (and the wife), the local auto paint jobber/vendor should be able to scan the sheet to make up the desired color. Unfortunately there is no a way I'm away of to directly transfer computer colors into an actual color or formula. Do not trust/rely on computer monitors for color accuracy. Printing colors sheets at Staples or at Walgreens (photo processing) is far cheaper than buying paint. Once you've ordered your basic color, your final color will likley be a dried brushed samples side-by-side on a bright white surface (like foam core) and viewed in bright sunlight. Don't forget to consider your interior colors as well (grey/taupe/beige, etc). PM/email me if you have any further Q's. Edit: Just playing around with microsoft paint (which most PC's include), I was able to create the attached.

Mark, I tried to do this scan and coloring with limited success. The problem I experienced was a photo (say of a side shot) has shadows and shades that really can't be easily duplicated using photoshop or other graphics program. I ordered the colors for my car from the color library website and the was the best $70 I spent of colors that I didn't want. I ended up getting the basic colors I wanted from my local jobber and tinted them down to the final colors (for one quart) using a postal scale set to grams and doing a trial and error (and keeping track of everything I added). The new formula is the original formula of the basic color plus the tinted amount all measured in grams. At least I can give my formula to my paint jobber and get repeated results. My research was that jobber's formulas are in grams, in both numerical values for a stock color as well as the cummulative value.

This sounds like a bad batch problem where replacing many hundreds would be way too expensive vs. one customers problem set. 1. Consider a 6.50 X 20 instead of 7.00 X 20. 2. Is it possible to paint using PPG Single Stage Urethane (Concept line) with flex additive that's used for modern rubber bumpers?

Consider runnig one or two pints of Seafoam cleaner in the crankcase and fuel system. http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/ Wouldn't suggest it if it didn't free up lifters and valve train.

RT, I know Enfield does Wire-on from the customers material, didn't know that they did Hide-Em. Please post photos of your project, would like to see this turns out.

Howard, McMaster-Car has a line of leather washers that maybe able to fit with some light sanding. On my seal problem, I took several of them and glued them together to build up the thickness and used a rotary drum sander to fit the ID and OD for my application. Would think one or two together that has its ID custom fit to the outer race and OD to just inside the beveled edge. Instead of that retaining ring, consider a precision thrust washer used in taking up the backlash on a lathe's cross feed table. Travers Tool in Long Island NY or Manhattan Supply Company (MSC) are two suppliers that I have used.

Tom, The original switch that operated the wiper motor on 6 volts should have no problem switching a 12 volt motor.

Dave, Check with the Detroit Library system. They helped me in my quest looking for the history of the Beals & Selkirk trunk Company. Also look for incorporation papers of a company, sometimes they reveal useful info.

Bill, Suggest using a non-detergent oil for the crankcase, 40 or 50 weight. The fork & blade rod arrangement will necessitate a slightly heavier oil given the multiple mating surfaces. Search for Classic Oil that has the zinc lubricant. Sold by the case, think the vendor is in Ill or Indiana. Trans and rear end can use 600 W steam oil. Its called steam oil, but its viscosity is about 190 or so when compared to normal/modern lubes. Mobil sells it in a 5 gallon pail. Steam oil is can be ordered through your local home heating oil company or Grainger. Use a grease gun size syringe available from NAPA or maybe even Grainger. Google searches may yield other vendors close to you there in Texas.

A close appearance alternative is to wrap the branches with Gaffing Tape. Gaffing or Gaff Tape is a cloth based tape used extensively in the entertainment industry (used to tape cables to the floor during a film session, etc.). When purchasing, check the vendor's description carefully. Seems manufactures' like 3M offer a vinyl version which is not what I recommend for your wrapping problem. They seem to be available in 1/2 inch to 2 inch wide. Do a Google search. Super glue the last wrap to secure it from unraveling.

Perhaps T slot bolts from Travers Tool Supply will work: http://www.travers.com/te-co-t-slot-bolts?Category=UserSearch=T Bolts||UserSearch=block id 71883 and class level3 id 299602||AttribSelect=Thread Size=1/2%22-13 McMaster-Carr has Tee Bolts at: McMaster-Carr Alternative is square stock from ASAP Source or Speedy Metals and have them machined.

Howard, The tech data sheet for Flexane (the trade name for Devcon's casting urethane rubber) states it has 26.5 cubic inches per pound. I suppose you can do some rough dimension calculations of your snubber or if you want more accurate volume, then immerse in a beaker of water and do the math (aka the Archimedes principle). http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_151.pdf FYI, there is also a Flexane 94 that is harder (Shore hardness A of 97) which is touted for making motor mounts. Shop around, the prices seem to vary from $41 to $60 per one pound box. Also Devcon offers an additive to soften the product if needed.

Consider the webbing from McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr Their extra strength is 3/32 inch thick which is less than the original, but it's in the right width. The tan can be dyed if needed. Extra-Strength Cotton Webbing with Nylon Core 1-1/2" Web Width, Tan, 2200# Breaking Strength. I think this is more than just the regular cotton which has a breaking strength of just 440#. You may also get away with a lighter tension spring and use this webbing. Todays roads are more foregiving than in the 1920's.

Consider making a pattern from wood or wax and cast these snubbers from Devcon Liquid rubber. Out of the box it has a Shore hardness of around 80, about the hardness of a shoe's heel. Shop around, Grainer is not the only source for Devcon products: DEVCON Liquid, Rubber, 1 Lb - Putties - 5A460|15800 - Grainger Industrial Supply

I tried to repair my gauge as described above and failed. I then sent it out to Roy Martin, The Temp Gauge Guy in VT, cost was about $100 in 2008: Vermont Automobile Enthusiasts (Classic and Antique Car Club) Articles

Assuming the two six volt batteries are under either the front or rear seat, select batteries that will fit properly in the existing battery holders. They're likely either group 1 or group 2 size. Is your Maxwell 6 volt or 12 volt? Some Maxwells are configured to use the two batteries in series (12 volts) for starting purposes. The leads from the batteries should be professional soldered leads to minimize the voltage drop. Normal lead acid cells from Interstate should work satisfactorily. Suggest using a battery tender (direct leads to quick disconnect connector) during the driving season and store the batteries in a moderate temp environment during the winter season (if applicable). Properly maintained lead acid batteries should last 6-8 years and I'm sure there are exceptions.

The person in the tan overcoat is Wilfred Leland, Henry Lerand's only son. I believe the man behind the wheel is Edsel Ford. Remember that the sale of Lincoln to Ford in 1922 caused friction between the two families as Henry Ford did not honor a verbal agreement (with Henry Leland) to take care of the original Lincoln shareholders after the bankruptcy sale to pay creditors. This was a case that went to the Michigan Supreme Court which concluded that "unless the agreement is in writing, it doesn't exist". Today this is basic Contact/Tort law as we know it. Henry Leyland died in 1932 believing he failed his original Lincoln share holders. The Lincoln Division under Edsel did well untill his untimely death in 1943., but did see the Continental introduced. Early History of the Lincoln Motorcar Company

Peter, Email me directly regarding a TRILIN light. Chris Wantuck friar1340@gmail.com

Pete, This is as reasonable of an explanation. Good job in researching this. Yup, baking soda has always been a good nutralizer for battery acid. We all shouild clean our batteries more often.