hddennis

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About hddennis

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  • Birthday 02/09/1949

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    Georgia

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  1. hddennis

    Maxwell rotor

    Thanks for this research Tom. It's hard to read in my pamphlets but the tiny print says 8 cylinder rotors have longer blades. Howard Dennis
  2. hddennis

    Maxwell rotor

    Tom, Do you have any thoughts why or if a large rotor would have been recommended over a small one or visa versa whichever came first? Howard Dennis
  3. hddennis

    Maxwell rotor

    Tom, Thanks a million for clarifying this for us. Could I ask one more question about Atwater Kent Type CC ignition systems? I've hunted parts for these for years for my Maxwell and almost every unit I've found has had the small rotor And I just assumed the bigger rotor was used on the 6 and 8 cylinder distributors. Recently several 4 cylinder units have been found with the larger rotor. In looking over my picture files gathered over the years off the internet I discovered 2 different pamphlets showing 2 different rotors. Do you think Atwater Kent changed from one style to the other over the years this system was sold? Howard Dennis
  4. Thanks to EdinMass for posting a picture of this meter. I was able to find another restoration project by searching for this meter. I believe I've found a Herbrand HT900 Tune Up Center. It includes the HT-660 Coil Tester Ed posted, a Tach Engine RPM Tester HT-864 and a Regulator Tester HT-400. I was able to download a manual on the HT-660 but can't find anything on the other 2 meters. Can anyone supply information on these 2 meters? Even pictures of the test leads for these 2 meters would help me.  Howard Dennis
  5. Thanks to Ed for posting this. I was able to find another restoration project by searching for this meter. I believe I've found a Herbrand HT900 Tune Up Center. It includes the HT-660 Coil Tester Ed posted, a Tach Engine RPM Tester HT-864 and a Regulator Tester HT-400. I was able to download a manual on the HT-660 but can't find anything on the other 2 meters. Can anyone supply information on these 2 meters? Even pictures of the test leads for these 2 meters would help me. Howard Dennis
  6. hddennis

    Maxwell rotor

    I really think the 19 is either an Atwater-Kent part number although I've been unable to find this listed anywhere. I have 2 rotors like this and one is number 6 and the other is number 9. Knowing this system was introduced in late 1917 my rotors couldn't possibly be from 1906 nor 1909. I think the numbers were used to tell different batches apart much like casting numbers on cast iron parts. Howard Dennis
  7. Ed, I rushed around this morning and took several photos of my spare system, one good one fair sorry for the out of focus but it does show something helpful. I've been struggling with timing on this car for ages and this latest problem has forced me to rethink it all. It's funny how a problem can haunt you and then revisiting it or talking it over with others can bring solutions you hadn't thought of before. Yesterday I went back and tried to retime the car and after eliminating all the slope in the linkage from 100 plus years in the many joints from the steering wheel quadrant, down the column, across the bellhousing , and forward under the exhaust and intake manifold to the distributor I thought between this action and my now open top cap I could set the rotor perfectly but kept coming up just a hair off dead center of the terminal. This morning while making these new photos it dawned on me no matter how hard I tried yesterday to position the rotor I had overlooked one last adjustment and that was the ability to remove the set screw below the distributor and lift distributor body and turn rotor 1 tooth to reposition the rotor in the angle drive gears just below the distributor base. In rereading all my literature collected from period repair manuals, Maxwell manuals and even Atwater-Kent installation literature this adjustment is NOT mentioned. My only thought is they all must have thought who would be stupid enough to mess with this factory adjustment. Guess no one thought some restorer 100 years in the future might want to clean and re-grease these gears and might reassemble them slightly off. So my next task is to go back and carefully retime all the obvious adjustments and then see if this newly discovered adjustment can bring the rotor to dead center of the cap terminal. Howard Dennis
  8. Ronnie, thanks, I was typing my last post as you were answering it. So dead center of the terminal would be ideal? Howard Dennis
  9. Ed, since I now have that open distributor cap and have the ability to set the rotor to fire at any position what would be the ideal situation considering I have all the levers set to the running position? Should I set it to fire dead center on the cap terminal? Howard Dennis
  10. Thanks Ed, I'll take you up on that offer. PM me your shipping address when you get back and I'll send you the coil. You've been a lifesaver on this problem and I really appreciate the help. Howard Dennis
  11. Thanks for responding. All the ignition parts and wires are new or new old stock. Plugs are used Splitdorfs and that is one thing I could change by getting modern replacements as it would be nearly impossible to get new Splidorfs of any type let alone multiple heat ranges. Is it possible this problem is strictly the wrong heat range plug? The coil is an original Atwater-Kent which I know has some kind of resistor built into the ventilated metal cap. Could that be bad? Is there any way this coil can be tested as I really would like to use it if at all possible because replacements don't exist that would match original looks. How would I fill in the damage I have and what should I use? I wondered about grinding an original cap into powder and mixing with some kind of epoxy? I really appreciate all who have taken the time to help me figure this out as I hate destroying original parts and would like to solve this once and for all and move on to other areas of this restoration. Howard Dennis
  12. Thanks for the response and praise. Even though the original capacitor functioned seemingly well enough people smarter than me told me the same as you and I recently replaced it with a modern one. Maybe I waited too long as I see my New Old Stock cap ran only a few hours and now has the same damage shown in my picture of one of my used caps. I just cut the top out of one of my used caps so I can see Exactly where the rotor is as I'm suspecting the ignition is firing after the rotor blade passes the cap contact. That's my theory anyway?? Howard Dennis
  13. First let me acknowledge my weakness in the mysteries of automotive electronics. Secondly I believe I asked this long ago but have forgotten the responses and hope maybe modern technology has advanced since then. My 1917 Maxwell uses an Atwater-Kent coil & distributor system designed to directly replace an existing magneto. This system was retrofitted to many cars of the period and was available in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder versions. Parts are getting hard to find and I'm finding a few caps that appear usable except for having cap material (Bakelite?) burnt away on one side of the inner contacts. Firstly what is causing this on multiple caps and secondly is there any cure to save these burnt caps. I'm 70, been fooling with cars my whole life and have never seen this on any other engines?? Howard Dennis
  14. hddennis

    Rim clamps

    Dennis, is this the picture you are looking for?
  15. You posted on an old post so I sent you an email. Howard Dennis