Beltfed

If not satisfied with your new radiator then reach out to “Walker Radiator”. The sell a number of radiator sizes, both orginial and aftermarket. They have a web site. I’ve owned two Griffin radiators. Both failed with no warranty and they ain’t cheap.

Yeah, it been 5 years and still waiting for right rear. I don’t think I’ll ever see it. Mmmm, the part I took pics of is your toe board. I don’t have enough to prove it one way or the other either. Hope Ken will post later and clear this up.

Somewhere here are pics of the floor pans Paul Bradley sent me to replace ones in my ‘38 Zephyr coupe. Also a pic of what’s left of the drivers front side. As can be seen, the ones sent by Bradley aren’t even close to the orginials. Does anyone know what they may fit? Anyone else having problems with this guy?

Bought years ago for my ‘38 Zephyr coupe. No way it will fit anything I have. Any interested parties before I use it for patch panel work? have been told it is: 46 to 48 Ford passenger left rear fender brace.

Thanks, now I know it doesn’t fit the ‘38. Can make ‘yard art’ out of it now or maybe a patch panel somewhere.

Cleaning up garage and taking inventory of parts for the ‘38 coupe that’s been up on stands for 5 years. I’m thinking I may not have the tallent or funds to complete her. Anyway, I purchased this part from somewhere and wrote “1938 left rear inner fender”” on it. Looking at car, I can’t see where it could fit the ‘38. Those anyone recognize this piece and know what it fits. Thanks.

Cleaning up garage and taking inventory of parts for the ‘38 coupe that’s been up on stands for 5 years. I’m thinking I may not have the tallent or funds to complete her. Anyway, I purchased this part from somewhere and wrote “1938 left rear inner fender”” on it. Looking at car, I can’t see where it could fit the ‘38. Those anyone recognize this piece and know what it fits. Thanks.

Seen in the swap meet at the NSRA National in Louisville Ky. Know nothing about it. Not my engine. Seller’s name is Mr. Truck out of Joplin, Missouri, phone #417-438-5200. Will have more pics later today.

You might want to think about residual valves also. 10 pounds for drums, 2 pounds for disks. The brake guys say anytime the m/c could be lower than the rest of the system, they are a good idea.

What year car? Columbia rear end? Early model rear end with 15+ foot speedo cable or the latter model with great box on firewall?

If your interested, the name of the company that ‘can’ make your trim is “Northfield Forming”. If you were to get them motivated to do it, I would be willing to add my trim to the order. They may gear up for two cars. Other interested parties may also wish to join in. A pattern may be necessary. I would be will to donate a piece of upper side trim for the spear point pattern.

Let us know if you find it. I’ve been looking for 4+ years for it. There is a company that will make it. They were just about ready to do it for two years till I gave up on them.

Master cylinders mounted on fire wall usually require hanging pedals. My 38 doesn’t have hanging pedals so the m/c would be mounted somewhere under the driver (if a stock 38 had hydraulic brakes). If you add a booster to the mix it tends to get a little crowded as most boosters are too big in diameter to fit between the floor pan and hanging to low. There is a pancake style that will fit. It is of course personal choice, but I prefer the copper/zinc type of brake line used on many modern high end cars. Easy to bend and the double flare ends are SO MUCH easier to make.

A couple of items to ponder. Can you fit the 7” booster under the floor without lowering the m/c. You will need a vacuum port for the booster. Hard to find without messing with the top of engine. You only have a small hole in floor boards for the old ‘fruit jar m/c. That will have to be addressed unless you go with remote reservoirs.