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John Gelfer

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About John Gelfer

  • Birthday 06/26/1952

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  1. Never had this engine apart, but compression is low on 2 cylinders. I was getting some major valve train noise. Does anyone know a source for valves and springs for this? I already have the engine gasket set.
  2. These have a 9/16" square shank to mount to the front brackets. Later cars had a tapered round shank.
  3. These have a 9/16" square shank to fit in the top front bracket. Later Model T's had a round hole bracket.
  4. I don't think my dimensions will match up with a modern seal. The leather gets deformed and pushed into a space by the inside lip of the hub. Even though it is 3.5mm thick, the final height of the inner lip would be much higher than 3.5mm. Since that lip is worn away, I have no idea what the height would be. Maybe someone out there has figured this out and has a part number. If I had some of the rubber stuff that hardens that dentists use, I could make an impression of the seal, after I put the hub on the axle. I think that would be the best way to figure out what a modern seal would have to look like. I'm going to see if I can get some.
  5. I know that Auburn and Gardner shared some of the same Lycoming straight 8 motors. I'm asking if the Auburns of the late 20's also shared the Columbia axles. The reason I'm asking is I hope to find a modern replacement for the leather grease seal on the rear axle of my 1928 Gardner. The outer lip sits in the axle housing, while the inner lip is about 1/4" shy of the axle. The inner edge of the seal meets up with a machined chamfer inside the wheel hub. I know some old Chryslers had the same type of seal, but I don't know the dimensions. My seal needs to be 70.7mm (2.78") OD, and 47mm (1.85") ID. The original leather is 3.5mm (0.14") thick. There is a piece of spring steel on the back side of the leather to hold it against the hub. That steel spring plate is broken in 3 peices on one side. I'm prepared to make a new leather one, if I can't find something better. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! John Gelfer
  6. Yes, the Gardner hub has the same tapered nose inside that rides on the leather. Can you still get the leather seals anywhere? I don't think a modern seal will fit, due to the nose of the hub hitting it when you put the wheel on the axle.
  7. My 1928 Gardner has leather rear axle seals. Rather than the inside lip of the seal riding against the axle, the wheel hub has a machined surface on the inside that rides on the leather seal. There probably is a modern seal to fit, which would seal against the axle. It looks like there wouldn't be much room for a modern seal, unless the inside of the hub was shortened to provide clearance. Has anyone had experience with this? I would consider leather seals too, it they are available. Thanks!
  8. Hi Todd. My distributor is a Delco 651B. It has 4 lobes on the distributor cam inside. There are some Delco dual point models that have 8 lobes.
  9. Do not assume there is an error in how the battery is hooked up. I have a 1928 Gardner roadster, and it is a 6 volt, positive ground system. I have the owners manual, and it states that is how it is connected in the system. I bet your ammeter shows it is charging correctly when it is running. (Assuming the generator is working.) Talk to some Chrysler owners of this era.
  10. I just checked my Gardner book. (I have a 1928 Model 75 roadster) I have the same Delco 949C generator, and the water pump looks pretty close too. You might want to post a free ad on the Gardner website: http://gardnermotorcars.com/index.html
  11. I think the old steam engine oil with the antiquated "600 WT" designation is really closer to a modern 250 wt oil. The model T parts vendors (Langs, Snyders, etc.) have it. I'm using it in the differential and transmission in my 1928 Gardner.
  12. After warming up, my 1928 Gardner with the 225 cu. in. Lycoming 8 (GT series motor) is making some top end noise that sounds like a stuck lifter. It runs fine, and you only hear it when it idles, but you really notice it when you shut the motor down. When you turn off the ignition, you hear 3 bell like "tap,tap,taps". It sounds like it's from the front of the valve train. I just checked all valve clearances, and only cylinder #3 needed adjustment. Assuming I can isolate which valve is causing the noise, what's the easiest way to fix it?
  13. I'm sure Jon Hardgrove at The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO can fix you up. 204 E 15th St Eldon, MO 65026 [TABLE=class: ts intrlu, width: 100%] <tbody>[TR] [TD]Phone: [/TD] [TD]<nobr>(573) 392-7378</nobr>. [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]
  14. Did you lay the plugs on the head while cranking to see if all were sparking?
  15. I would try Jon Hardgrove at the Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO. He is the god of antique carburetors, and can steer you in the right direction for repairs, or replacements. Leave a message at 573 392-7378. THE CARBURETOR SHOP
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