Friartuck

Perhaps get a Dykes manual of that period. Dykes was usually good about explaining things. If not, contact: Roy Martin "Temperature Gauge Guy" 172 Laurel Hill Dr. South Burlington, VT 05403 (802) 862-6374

Another method would be like the serial number data plates used on firewalls. Those were made up by Pulfer and Williams http://www.pulferandwilliams.com The company is now run by Lavine Restorations. I would expect a certain minimum to prepare the silk screen and set up fees.

I wrote an article on this a few years ago. Essentially a photographic quality cover is applied over the original. It is but one way to accomplish this. http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_10_winter.pdf I took the liberty to provide a quick example based on your submitted picture. Email me if you want this type of solution. An alternate is to do the graphics like the photo and create a water soluable decal and apply over the original. This assumes that this ignition faceplate is under glass. If its not then the graphics suggestion would not be a good method. Chris friar1340@gmail.com

There are metal working Forums on Yahoo and Google if you're looking for more opinions. These guys do their own castings and machine work. One example is: https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!forum/rec.crafts.metalworking

I heard from George at Veteran Auto Lamps. Circumstances have them doing business at a slower pace, but they still are in business and they still intend to perform restoration of period lamps.

Three references: Book, Master of Precision, Henry M. Leland, by Mrs. Wilfred C. Leland with Minnie Dubbs Millbrook, Wayne State University Press, Detroit, 1966 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 66-10501 Book, Henry Leland: The Story of the Vermonter Who Created Cadillac and Lincoln, by Gloria May Stoddard, The New England Press, Copyright 1986, ISBN 0-933050-39-9 http://www.friartuck.x10.mx/Lincoln/lincoln_history/lincoln_history.html

As Restorer32 said, contact Lavine Restorations in Indiana. Lavine purchased a long established company called Pulfer and Williams that made high quality data plates for Packard, Cadillac, and others. Pulfer continued on with the company after Williams passed on in the late 1980's. Lavine's website is at: http://lavinerestorations.com/ and Pulifer's is at: www.pulferandwilliams.com For some strange reason, Lavine's website doesn't have a link to the Pulfer website that they now own. If you need engraving for a firewall serial tag, may I suggest Joe Kostelnik, R.D. #4, Box 322, Greensburgh, PA 15601 (724) 832-0365. Joe's work, exactly duplictes the font and style of your original data plate. If Lavine doesn't have it, contact classic and exotic at: http://www.classicandexotic.com/

I'm with Bhigdog Bob on this. Trying to reengineer all the variables of tooth pitch, dimensions, etc. and get it right is slim. I don't think its neccessary in this case. Have a compitent welder TIG build up the damaged teeth There is a lot of tooth material on the rest of the flywheel to use as a gauge. Make a mold with cardboard around some good teeth and use a pourable plastic from Smooth-on plastics. As for the welder, search for a welder that repairs diecast molds for industry. Diecast molds when they crack are often repaired rather than replaced. This maybe overkill of using this type of welder, but has high quality. Once done, use small rotary carbides and hand file to the correct profile. In my personal almanac I found: Al Suehring, Flywheel Ring Gears, (715) 677-3809 al@suehring.com if you still want to go with replacing the ring gear. Also check the starter gear for damage. One gear damaged will ruin the mating gear in a heart beat.

Howard, Some suggestions. Not clear if the tank is visible on the cowl/firewall or is it concealed which may dictate the solution. 1. Make a new tank by cutting out peices from a flat sheet, bend as needed and have them TIG welded (stiched) together. This is much like the gas tank reproduction process as shown on some of the custom motorcycle shows. Would suggest making a full size cardboard pattern and duct tape the seams to iron out problem seams. You would have to find a fabricator in you area willing to work with you. The final shape may not be pretty, but it would be functional. 2. Make a new tank similar to the above suggestion by cutting out the two halves in a single sheet, make any necessary bends or nothes, and TIG or MIG the two halves together and then use water pressure to pressure form the tank. This is done in the motorcycle exhaust system trade called expansion chambers-necessary for 2 stroke engines to provide back pressure. There are a couple of Utube videos and vendors on this to get familiar with this trade. Investigate to see if one of them maybe willing to take this on if you provide either the cut out pattern or the cardboard model. Finding someone who already does this saves you the aggravation of setting up and operating the apparatus needed to do this. The final shape would be closer to the original (desirable if any of it is exposed). (part 2) (part 3)

Now that we can see what you're trying to make, yes these are scripts, not tags. There are a few posts on the forum on the subject of 3D printing. I would think this would be perfect for that. 1) Create the Marathon emblem in 3D software, 2) upload the file to a company that prints 3D in plastic and is mailed to you, and 3) now you have a pattern that could be shipped off to someone like Restorer32 to have it cast in metal. The beauty of the 3D approach is you can make any minor changes or enhancements and include in the design, like taller letters, slightley curve around the hull, etc. Companies doing 3D printing now charge about $.10 per cubic cm, not a huge investment. Mastering the software like Solidworks or Punch's ViaCAD, is the challenge.

Chuck, Are you looking for serial number data tags?? Do a search under data tags and this popped up. http://www.datatags.com/ Perhaps posting a picture of what you're trying to accomplish. You do mention pot metal and casting in your description.

The guys at classic and exotic have King Seeley bodies to include one for a '28 Studebaker. Is the one for a '29 President that much differant? In any case, theirs are CNC machined and they likely have all their bodies on file. Changing a couple of dimensions and letting them do it should be cheaper and easier than you starting from scratch. Just my $.02 worth.

The Lincoln Radiator is circa 1925-1927 and possibly 1928. Clue is the shape of the shell and the oval Lincoln medalion does not have Ford in script above LINCOLN and DETROIT (in caps) below the Lincoln. By 1929 the shape of the radiator shell was not as tall in the center.

I don't know of a source that has something like this on the shelf. I suspect you're going to have to make up what you need. Restoration Supply in Escondido, CA offers molding in half oval and similar shapes. You'll have to solder nails to it and profile as needed. You may consider using solid Alum stock and again solder nails and shape to fit.

http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_07_summer.pdf

McMaster Carr offers felt sheets in various thicknesses. You could punch out the size you need using a sharpened sheet metal strip formed in a circle to the radius you need. Use a hand or hydraulic press against a hardwood base. May take some trial and error. This would allow you to make nice and tight seals.

I remember seeing the vendor who sold old motorcycle photos. He was in the Chocolate Annex right on th edge of the main food court road. I looked at the 2013 program directory under Posters/Post Cards category and there is a vendor listed on space C4T which is right on the edge as I remember it and the program map confirms it. The listing is for Herb Lorenz of Keepsake Graphics in Milton, NY. Using both Google and an old AACA membership directory, I got the following: Herb J Lorenz 215 Ridge Rd, Milton, NY 12547 (845) 795-2445 Good luck, hope this is right.

Something not mentioned here is use a 1/2 drive, deep six point socket and breaker bar. Have another person tap the drive stem with a ball peen hammer while applying pressure on the breaker bar.

Fred, I have not used this ALK product line from PPG. I too looked up the Tech Sheets and it seems thie ALK line topcoat is is an Alkaline paint, a part of the commercial coatings group, not the automotive refinish group. It wasn't clear to me which primer is used for the ALK series. I have used the PPG Concepts line single stage urethane, both the DP Epoxy primers and Concept top coats with satisfaction. Have you seen the ALK series used for automotive applications and how did you become acquainted with it? My suggestion is use the DPLF epoxy primer and top coat with DCC acrylic Urethane. I'm sure there is an additive or way to mix the paint to knock off the high sheen. Personally, I think it's fine as is for frame/chassis application.

I have used Darryl's before and very satisfied with their work: http://www.darrylsplates.com/

I agree with Bhigdog Bob, having some more info would be helpful on what you intend this band saw to perform. I have a floor mount Craftsman from the early 80's vintage that has a 12 inch throat and I also bought the speed reducing unit for cutting metal. It has a cast iron frame which is durable enough for the hobbist. Something not mentioned here is how much space do you have to store this saw. Suggest having it on casters to roll around the shop, especially if the peices to be cut are long and require special manuevering. Generic rolling caster platforms are available from several woodworking suppliers, if the unit you decide on doesn't already have casters. Also consider the blades, have an assortment of 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4 inch blades with various teeth per inch (TPI) on hand for the task at hand. Pay attention to the 1) upper and lower allignment blocks, 2) tension for the blade being used, and squareness of the table to the blade. I would suggest looking for a used saw from someone who is moving (craigslist or ebay seller that is close). Is there a wood working shop in your area, and if so, put the word out, someone may have one in their shop that may sell. You have a choice of bench or floor mounted models, all depends on the size and versatility you need.

I can't speak for Mike Ross at Coast2coastleather, but I thought I heard his wife saying something like when they met, she rolled and he pleaded...May have something to do with the French seam between them....

It is true that bodies made by Lincoln were Aluminum (for ease of forming). Note the size proportion of the golf bag door against the fender radius (width). The '32 KB Lincoln is larger. This could be 27-30 model L. Also note the squareness (sharp) of the corners of the pictured body.

But wait, one more serious posting: Coast 2 Coast Leather and Vinyl in central NJ (732) 525-8877 http://www.coast2coastleather.com/ Mike is a former Trimmer. All materials on site in his warehouse. Many designs, colors and patterns and competitive pricing.

Does anyone want to offer an opinion on the copyright permissions of a publisher that's no longer in business??