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Starfire61

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About Starfire61

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  1. All '61-2 full sized Olds with power brakes used the vacuum tank. Both the Bendix & Moraine boosters came with an integral T-shaped connection, one side of which went to the engine, and the other to the tank. The tank itself attaches to the inner fender with three bolts accessed by removing the left front wheel. The left hood hinge might need to come off in order to remove or install the tank. Pics are attached. Note that the Moraine booster has only two studs for the master cylinder, while the Bendix has four. Moraine boosters are anodized and held together
  2. I am by no means an authority on these cars, but it appears to me that the market for them has softened considerably. Whether this is due to simple economics or something more insidious like generational shift remains an interesting discussion. The '41 Phaeton previously mentioned as being for sale was initially listed at almost $130K. Several months later, the car is still for sale with an asking price under $60K. https://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/DET/1555/1941-Oldsmobile-98-Phaeton Then there is the '41 Buick Roadmaster Phaeton discussed on another thread that fail
  3. While the hissing certainly indicates a vacuum leak in your booster, a bad booster alone shouldn't cause your pedal to sink to the floor. if anything, it would be more difficult to depress the pedal with the loss of the vacuum assist from your booster. Are the master and booster still on the car? I would take a good look at your master cylinder, particularly if you've never had it apart. A similar situation occurred to me years ago on a '61 Olds with a soft, sinking pedal. Couldn't find a leak anywhere. Then I removed the master & booster, and discovered that the boos
  4. Despite the wording of the ad, the car no longer has anything close to its original interior. Four monochromatic interiors were available on the '61 Starfire: red, blue, silver, and fawn. That's all. The correct all-red interior is much more subdued than the shiny red & white pastiche seen here. Furthermore, the car has the wrong steering wheel, wrong turn signal stalk, and may well have the wrong column. While red was a common exterior color on the Starfire, Olds only offered one shade of red in '61, and this isn't it. All this for $48K and no title. Hopeful
  5. Olds only built around 4400 of these. They are seldom-seen. The roofline is shared with the 1961 Buick Electra and Cadillac. It Is not the same roof used on the more common "bubbletop" Super and Dynamic 88s. I'm almost certain that I inspected this very car when it was for sale in FL in 2007. At the time, it wore lake pipes, fender skirts, and different wheels, but the spotlights on the fenders suggest that this is the same car. California-built, it was very straight and rock-solid, with no evidence of any rust or filler. The interior was quite nice and appeared mostly origina
  6. https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/d/arlington-heights-1958-buick/7146473086.html
  7. Thanks very much for the suggestion to check out the Multibeam threads. The information is extremely helpful. That is indeed the system that was originally on the car- I had no idea it was so precise. Still trying to nail-down whether I have the correct reflectors, but you've definitely given me some direction. Thanks again!
  8. I recently acquired a 1938 Olds F-Series convertible that has been converted to sealed beam headlights. In hoping to undo the conversion, I've managed to find a set of lenses that are correct for the Olds. These came in a batch of headlight parts that are mostly '39 Cadillac. I'm unsure which of these Cadillac parts might work on the Olds. The Cadillac buckets and aiming mechanisms clearly have a right side/left side orientation and look as though they'll fit into the Olds without difficulty. However, the reflectors are a puzzle. Both the headlight and parking light bulbs a
  9. I recently acquired a 1938 Olds F-Series convertible that has been converted to sealed beam headlights. In hoping to undo the conversion, I've managed to find a set of lenses that are correct for the Olds. These came in a batch of headlight parts that are mostly '39 Cadillac. I'm unsure which of these Cadillac parts might work on the Olds. The Cadillac buckets and aiming mechanisms clearly have a right side/left side orientation and look as though they'll fit into the Olds without difficulty. However, the reflectors are a puzzle. Both the headlight and parking light bulbs a
  10. An additional consideration towards ascertaining a value is knowing whether or not the car is a business coupe or a sport coupe. Business coupes had a trunk, while sport coupes had a rumble seat. Each bodystyle was available in the short wheelbase 6-cylinder and long-wheelbase 8-cylinder platforms. Does the car have a six or an eight? Trunk or rumble seat?
  11. The 394 in my '62 Starfire convertible is not original to the car. I'd like to find a cylinder head with an engine number that corresponds more closely with the car's build date of early April. Engine numbers within a range of 10-20K of G550000S would work. These numbers are stamped on a flat on the driver's side head that's located just below the lower edge of the valve cover and between the two inner spark plug holes. Willing to consider single heads or sets. Thanks! Chuck
  12. I just had a Slim Jim rebuilt by Tom Kasper in South Elgin, IL. He often advertises in JWO & has been working on these transmissions since they were new. I picked up the car yesterday & asked him about this tool & adjustment. He said he's never had any special tools for the Slim Jim & sets up the linkage entirely by adjusting the upper TV rod at the engine. I subsequently checked the linkage on three Slim Jims- two rebuilt by Tom & one unrebuilt but shifting well. With the TV crank at its rear-most point of travel, the distance from the hole in the TV crank to the center
  13. I'm looking for some opinions- I have a tired '61 Olds Ninety Eight convertible project. I'm in the midst of going through the entire brake system. It's almost totally shot, so every component will be either new or rebuilt. Since I'll be starting with a new & empty system, I'm considering using DOT 5 fluid. I used it once before with excellent results, but I'd still like to hear some thoughts & experiences of others. Thanks! Chuck
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