mbenseignant@gmail.com

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About mbenseignant@gmail.com

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  • Birthday 06/18/1957

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    Male
  • Location:
    Vancouver, B.C., Canada

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  1. Jon: How can we check if a BB-1 will clear? I am running a Johnson on a 1924 Cadillac V63.
  2. Carl — I don’t think I’m divulging too much to remind you that you have a nice original V63 touring already! And what about the wonderful 26 Cadillac you love driving around? I see there is some enthusiasm for big old cars chopped up into trucks. I have never felt it myself. Keep reading craigslist and buy something that is less — well — ugly. Happy driving, all. By the way, Carl, I am counting on you to stay healthy and keep your V63. I still like checking it for authenticity now and again. In a few years I am going to retire and restore mine. I won’t be doing it for the money; in fact I will be doing it against the money. I have adopted the car, and it is now family, so there you have it.
  3. Thank you. I should have thought to look in the Book of Information. As for the doors flaps — I bought the car restored, and the upholsterer, I think, was proud of doing fancy work. Perhaps a bit too fancy to be correct. But I will leave it because it looks nice. I am much more bothered by the vinyl upholstery on my 1924 Cadillac. The pattern is right but the material is wrong. Someday I may address that. Thats again for your help.
  4. Thank you. I will look forward to the info. In the mean time I ran new black wire all the way from the switch to underneath the dash, so the horn is working again. I think the klaxon is an important safety feature given the weak brakes. I will be interested in seeing the correct path for the wires. When I took the upholstery off the door, I expected to see some wood. But I don’t think there is any. What about the body? Is there wood under the metal. Regards, Mike Barnes
  5. My 1915 touring has the horn switch on the driver side door. Very quaint, but it quit working. I suspect the wires just got wrecked by being rubbed by the hinge. Please look at the pics. I am wondering — how should the wires be running to avoid wear? Many thanks, Mike Barnes, Vancouver
  6. Could somebody post a link to Guest’s Gearvendors discussion, apparently on the AACA site somewhere? Many thanks, Mike Barnes
  7. Recently I moved my forum from Yahoo to groups.io. Details below of its purpose. Here is the website if you want to check it out and request membership: https://groups.io/g/EarlyV8Cadillac. ”A group for owners and folks interested in Cadillac cars fromd 1915 till the late 1920s. Nineteen-fifteen marked the introduction of the V8 engine in Cadillacs, and the late 1920s cars are popular enough to find lots of online support already. This group addresses a need for sharing information and resources for the under-appreciated ‘nickel-era’ cars. You don’t need to be an owner to join. All are welcome.” Cheers, Mike Barnes, Vancouver
  8. Recently I moved my forum from Yahoo to groups.io. Details below of its purpose. Here is the website if you want to check it out and request membership: https://groups.io/g/EarlyV8Cadillac. “A group for owners and folks interested in Cadillac cars from 1915 till the late 1920s. Nineteen-fifteen marked the introduction of the V8 engine in Cadillacs, and the late 1920s cars are popular enough to find lots of online support already. This group addresses a need for sharing information and resources for the under-appreciated "nickel-era" cars. You don't need to be an owner to join! All are welcome.” The AACA forums are great, of course. I won’t bother stating my favorites (well, this is one of them). Sometimes a hubcap rolls away — that is, the subject gets changed. Sometimes a wheel falls right off — and somebody sounds unhappy. Fortunately, these disasters of the road are rare.
  9. Like others, I lost the correct position of the enrichener pin when I took carb apart and put it back together. But I found this procedure quite easy: Remove the arm that connects to the choke cable. That way, you can turn the “choke” adjustment knob by hand. Have somebody crank the engine. Starting in the richest position (knob turned all the way counter-clockwise, very slowly turn the knob clockwise. When the engine starts, you are not far off the correct choke position. Perhaps you are a bit rich. Turn now one way, now the other, to find the best engine running. When satisfied, put the choke cable adjustment arm back on the shaft. Do it such that the adjusting click screw on the carb is around half way. That way you can still adjust leaner or richer.
  10. For my 1915 touring car -- but not a 1915 streering box! Those weren't adjustable; I'd like a slightly newer box with capability of removing slack. Thanks, Mike Vancouver
  11. For early touring car. Mine has 1915, I want a box slightly newer with capability of removing slack. Thanks, Mike, Vancouver
  12. Turns out I have the 1915 steering box, which is pretty unadjustable. Does anybody have a slightly newer box (adjustable) they would like to sell? Thanks, Mike Barnes, Vancouver
  13. It is much much closer to the illustration supplied by 22touring. I am on holiday with limited internet and away from car. I want to thank everybody very much for support. Will be puzzling over it in a week or so! Cheers, Mike in Canada
  14. There is a whole wheel, but I only photographed a bit at the top right. Any ideas about that cam? Just holding the wheel in place? Your suspicion may be right that this is a plain bushing or no bushing. I guess the steering box will have to come right off to check. Or I can put up with the slack a while longer. Thanks, Mike
  15. I am trying to take out slack between the worm and the worm wheel. Later cars and later manuals show that a narrow wrench was inserted on the outside (body side) of the steering box to turn the eccentric bearing belonging to the worm wheel. But I don't think my car is like that. There is not enough bearing sticking out to grab with anything, and it doesn't seem hex anyway. When I remove the cover (engine side) there is this cam-shaped thing seemingly acting as the bearing for the worm wheel. Should that be turned? I don't know what I would grab it with, given that there is little space between engine and box. Also, I don't see where I am to loosen a lock before twisting. Second photo is a 1916 manual (my earliest). My steering box is somewhat different. It looks like one single cast box housing the worm all the way to the steering lever. An early design? Maybe not even Dodge? If I had the answers, I would not be posting here. Help and advice appreciated! Mike Barnes, Vancouver, Canada