Friartuck

Available, TRILIN Tail Light Lenses reproduced in urethane plastic from molds of original glass lenses. Available in clear, amber for model L Lincoln or light blue for Springfield Rolls Royce. Can be either side lenses depending whether you need driver side or trying to make a passenger side light and want to be symetrically correct between left and right sides (and keep the flutes vertical). Chris Wantuck friar1340@gmail.com (732) 530-1917

Beltfed, The racks of back up batteries you mentioned were likely in a constant charge and discharge cycle which is a form of aggitation. A chemistry to consider is Absorbed Gas Mat (AGM). Its in the gel cell family of batteries. I recently bought one for my motorcycle and so far so good. AGM's seem to be available for the motorcycle/ATV/utility vehiicle category. They do make them for 6 volt, but seem pricey. From a cost/benefit aspect, I suspect you can buy a normal lead acid version and use it for several years and replace it for the price of the AGM (just worth mentioning).

An alternative would be to remove the old leather and build up the area with a liquid rubber. Devcon liquid rubber has a Shore hardness of 80 when cured. Could be lightly sanded on an expanding sanding wheel to get smooth and round. Devcon is available at Grainger. Or grind off the bottom peened over brass ring and drill and tap the stem for a machine screw and refit with leather or rubber washers.

I believe what is occurring is the seperation of the acid and water in that cell. The densities between the acid and the water are causing the acid to fall to the bottom and the water to rise. This is not usually observed as the battery is undergoing charge and discharge cycles as well as the vehicle's forward and side-to-side motion which will mix the solution. The battery just sitting on the bench isn't moving. Just one theory

I used Joe Kostelnik, Greensburg, PA. I believe he does the engraving work for Paul's Plating, Evans City, PA (near Pittsburgh). On a cap like yours, they would add a layer of solder underneath the script and have Joe over empahsis the existing script, so when it goes through the normal plating process, the script won't disappear.

There's a place in Hightstown, NJ called Perogies that deals with Forn of that era and handle that engine. They also had a manifold that is used/common on a Tornado I think. There is a Cast Iron welding rod available from Muggy Weld http://muggyweld.com that I have succussfully used.

12 Gauge wire for this lighting circuit is certainly adequate and slightly overkill. 14 Gauge will work as well, the differance being how easy is it to route inside an armored loom if that is what you are planning. An important part of this is what Owen Dyneto touched on, the summation of circuits. I would use 12 gauge wire from your source to the turn signal controller. I also suggest a single in-line fuse or resettable circuit breaker in that 12 Gauge source line. Be sure to solder all your electrical connections. This article may help you: Electrical Connections: The Importance of Soldering

I guess a good question to ask at this point is what or how does wood breathe with one coating like varnish and doesn't with other coatings like epoxy. I do agree that wood spokes should be allowed to swell-expand as weather/temp permits. I'd like to seperate fact from myth.

Gary, A product that I've used glueing and sealing wood is Kwik Poly Home Page Kwik Poly is a Polyol using two agents, a base and a catalyst. When first mixed has a viscosity of water and penetrates well into wood fibers. Its ability to absorb into wood is what I like about it. I have used it to bolster rotted wood or wood areas where numerous nails have weaken it (like around a seat edge that's been nailed or stapled many times). I also use it for setting blind nuts when rebuilding wooden body parts. Epoxy products like West System which are good as an adhesive are thick and will result in a lot of sanding for your purpose. KP cures in minutes which will be difficult to apply in large batches, though a chilled mixture will prolong the cure time. I suppose its possible to spray it with a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight (top cup HVLP is $15) and immediatly imerse it in lacquer thinner to clean it and ready for the next batch. I admit this is a long shot using KP this way. Another avenue to pursue is the furniture trade. Look up Klingspor Wood Workers supply in the Carolina's and get referals for sealing bare wood. I've shot PPG DP series and am happy with it over metal, but never thought to try it over wood. I just looked at the PPG-DP Data Sheet and its rated for metals and fiber glass, but no mention of wood. On your project I think I would use the KP on the wood spokes (either sprayed or brushed) and find a sprayable sealer for the body.

I think this is being over thought and that the heat and ratios are red herrings to the fundamental problem. Thus, isn't this a simple case of a fuel delivery problem as roadsterdave first suggested in the OP? At the higher engine RPM is it possible the fuel pump is not delivering the capacity leading to the engine shutdown?? A small rip in the diaphram?? While vapor lock is possible, would think that that would occur even at 40MPH--therefore dismissing it. Suggest a pressure and capacity test before exploring other avenues.

Was Maurice restored right about the time as the movie 2000, A Space Oddessy was released and Hal influenced Maurice... "Andy I'm afraid you can't do that now, I'll be stopping the engine soon....." In all seriousness, there are several possible things. Assuming a stock 6 volt negative ground system: 1. The connection that supplies positive current to the headlight switch isn't getting enough power and the four way flasher circuit is robbing current before it gets to the headlight switch. The flasher circuit likley gets power before other circuits (is powered regardless of ignition switch). You mentioned you added the turn signals and may have tapped power from a convient location with an unexpected consequence. 2. Add grounding straps from the fenders (preferably near the headlights) back to a known good ground point. Add a seperate ground strap to the dash. Adding a ground to the light switch should not do anything.....switch is on the positive side. 3. Does Maurice have an amp meter in the dash?? check the connections. If you have a VOM and a fully charged battery, monitor the voltage at various locations to make sure you don't have an undersized gauge wire, especially between the generator and the ampmeter. Same goes for the wire between the ampmeter and the headligtht switch. Should be 10-12 gauge with soldered connections (terminals). 4. You mentioned you stepped on the brakes and the lights went nuts. Perhaps this was an electrical issue (again robbing power) or pressure was applied to the firewall (effecting the ground through the sheet metal).

Given the latest generation of GPS units and phones, that run off standard USB 5.0 volts, there is no longer a reason to step up from 6 to 12 volts. The 6 volts to USB 5.0 volts leaves a 1 volt head room which is just enough to use a standard IC regulator. The issue where is that it must include filtering circuitry on both the input side and the regulated output side of the regulator. The ignition noise and ripple noise from the generator that is conducted on the power input may cause the units to malfunction. This was documented by an Australian collector who bought a regulator from a source in Switzerland that did not contain filtering, just the regulator. That source used it on '50's vintage 6 volt cars which has some fltering suppression (which worked OK) as comapred to 1920-1940 vintage electrical system which does not. The Aussie collector tried it on a 1929 Packard and it malfunctioned when he ran the engine. The ideal configuration would be to package the filters, regulator and multiple USB connectors into a single small plastic hobby box. This would power the phone, GPS and any other thing that you might have in mind. The input would be a screw strip on the back. The benefit of this arrangement is that it is more efficient than stepping up to 12 volts (just to have it reduced to USB 5.0 volts). There was supposed to be a company in central NJ that was taking up this solution, but may have lost interest. If someone wanted to experiment, one could buy one of the cigarette lighter USB adapters (seem to be available at drug stores or Radio Shack), add the required filtering and package in a box. Mouser Electronics offers the necessary parts. Just throwing in my $.02 worth here.

Dandy Dave may have the best idea here, make your own. Travers Tools Metalworking Tools - Drills, End Mills, Taps, Machines, Measuring Tools, Abrasives, Power Tools and MRO Supplies | Travers Tool carries the non-standard taps. Hex stock in small quantities and short sizes can be obtained from Speedy Metals, Speedy Metals Online Industrial Metal Supply Maybe you can strike an alliance with someone in your area who has a small lathe, you supply the tap and material.

Folks, Thought this was important enough to make a separate posting. The topic of Electrolyisys rust removal has been well documented, but this method was with a twist. The project was a 1920's gas tank that was taken to a national chain for professional cleaning & refurbishment. They cut it open and discovered (learned) that it had seperate compartments in the bottom for the switchable 2 gallon reserve. They returned it to the customer in peices that they could not apply their process and guarantee it. So now the customer is worse off than he started; a rusty tank that now has to be welded back together. The goal here was to perfect a procedure to prevent this from happening again (invade a perfectly good tank just for the sake of cleaning it). The tank is treated as the cathode (negative lead) and a one foot long peice of concrete reinforcing rebar Anode (positive) has heavy 10 gauge wire soldered to the tip and connected to the positive lead of the battery charger. The tips of the rebar are insulated to leave it high enough off the bottom and not short out against the metal walls of the tank. The solution is sodium carbonate (Ph level additive or Arm&Hammer washing soda (not baking soda). Leaving the Rebar in for about 2 hours will collect the rust from the tank's inner walls. If your battery charger has a meter, you'll notice the current will decrease and the rust deposits on the rebar begin to prevent the current flow, hence an indicator of when to clean off the rebar. 5-7 amps is a clean anode and reduced to 1 amp means a dirty anode (needs cleaning). The test sheet metal picture shows the effect (after about 4 hours) noting the submersion line. The electrolysis also attacks some of the old gas residue, an unexpected benefit. I expect this tank to require several days of cleaning, but I think that is a small price to pay. In a closed tank, you may have to delicatly route the rebar to prevent shorting. I hope his helps someone else who has a rusty tank that needs cleaning and hopefully avoid having it needlessly cut open. The plan here for this tank (after welded and pressure tested) is to use a slooshing sealer after the tank is bone dry. The below pics show the rebar with and without the rust deposits. WARNING: Electrolysis gives off Hydrogen gas: No open flame, sparks from the alligator leads and no smoking while in progress.

Flare tubing nuts are available from Napa auto parts store (search on-line under long tubing nuts). They're made by either Gates or Eaton) If visiting a store, they're in the flare fitting bins. Macmaster-Carr the industrial supplier also carries them. (hard to purchase just a single one from Mcmaster). You'll need to double flare the ends for brake application. Would think someone in your area of VA would have flaring and bending tools (check your local region).

Asking a question on behalf of a friend who recently acquired a '62 F85 Cutlass: Is there a conversion package availble to change over the front wheels from drum to disk brakes, while preserving the original four lug wheels?

Gary, do a search of the Chrysler section of this Forum. There is a 2011 posting that refers to a Andy Bernbaum that has these lug bolts.

This article maybe helpful: http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_07_summer.pdf This post should be moved to the trailer category

Phil, The 4 psi to the filter/carb sounds low for a pressurized fuel system. Anyway to increase that to say 6-7 psi?? This would address the high speed starvation problem. Perhaps a special bent fuel line (clad in a woven insulating material) from the carb, around the engine (staying away from heat sources) to under the car, where you can put the filter and pick up the fuel line to the pump

T. Nugent brings up an important point: Respiratory hazards from sand blasting (silicosis). There are dual filter respirators and fresh air masks and supply systems on the market (like TP Tools or Eastwwod), that are FDA breathing approved, but seem pricey ($600-$1,000). Eastwood even offers a system that runs from the compressed air line with filters, etc. Perhaps one could adapt a dual filter respirator and run a breathable quality hose from it to a pump for less $$ than purchasing a new system. The pump (source) must be out of the blasting area.

Jim, You can include high volume couplers (1/2 inch thread size) into your piping (manifold) design to facilitate easy connection of your blaster. This makes it convienent to set up for a small blasting job: Coupler Assembly - TP Tools & Equipment

Jim (D2 Coupe), TP Tools has some on-line diagrams which should help you plumb your compressor and sand blaster. Note that the piping includes vertical branches which: 1) helps condense the warm moist compressed air when it hits the cooler metal pipe, and 2) water doesn't run/flow up a branch, only down-back into the trap: Technical Tips - TP Tools & Equipment Their quote is worth adding: We firmly believe that a properly designed piping system will eliminate 95% of all moisture problems and will result in smooth running airoperated tools and equipment. I use a combination of metal piping and seperator at the compressor and 1 inch flex hose to the sandblaster with a seperator attached to the blaster hopper.

Whitmoyer, Given your location north of Harrisburg, insulate well especially the ceiling. Suggest using the Hot Dawg (from Modine)ceiling mounted forced air heater that is propane fired unless you have gas at your location. The unit direct vents either up or out the side. Mentioned here by another poster, do you need to heat the entire area?? Perhaps including vertical hanging strips to partition your shop may concentrate the heat where its needed.

Once the fuel delivery issue has been addressed, suggest using Seafoam motor treatment in both the fuel and crankcase oil. Its available at most auto part stores. This is a product that does free up carbon build up and frees sticky things like rings. It has a proven track record: Sea Foam Sales Company

I had a similar clock, a Seth Thomas 6 volt electric self winding dash clock. Clocks/timepeices are delicate items and if its not your speciality, let someone who knows them best to repair it. I sent mine to the National Watch & Clock Museum, 514 Poplar Street, Columbia, PA 17512 Phone: 717-684-8261 (Lancaster area) Penn. Albert Dodson was my contact. Its also a worthwhile museum to visit if you're in that region of the country. Welcome to NAWCC