Friartuck

Perhaps this has been suggested before: Comments please. What do you think? Subject: On Line Flea Market What is an On-Line Flea Market: The On-Line Flea market is a method to connect parts sellers to buyers . It is based on photographs of the items the seller is offering with a minimal, if any description. A critical consideration of the On-Line Flea Market is it must be as easy to use for the seller as possible. Digital photography is well within the means of most car collectors and restorers and taking pictures is now fairly easy for most. Photos remain on the website till the item sells or perhaps just one year, not just one week. Software or web applications for Uploading photos has been proven (Craigslist is an example). Photos can be categorized in logical groups. Examples could be Exterior trim; tail light lenses, Engine; Water Pumps, or Chassis; Shocks. It is Important that this part of the On-line Flea market is structured to be as easy for the person posting his parts as possible, i.e. you have to make it easy for people to use. There are no up-front listing fees or costs. The only fee would be if a person purchased an item. The person looking for a part has an idea what the part looks like or perhaps a part number and is likely to recognize it upon seeing it, pretty much the way it is done now at regular flea markets. The potential buyer and vendor can exchange correspondence and additional photos if required. The vendor sets the price at the time of an inquiry is received from a potential buyer along with shipping info. Why an On-Line Flea Market? Many of us attend flea markets in our own geographic area and rarely venture too far out of it. If for example, you were looking for a tail light lense for a 1950 Crosley, and haven’t found it yet, continued looking in your immediate area is unlikely to turn one up locally. However, there may be one 2 or 3 states away, that vendor has had it for years and doesn’t know someone has been looking for it. Further, the vendor who has it doesn’t know that its for a Crosley. So the cycle repeats itself: Vendor carries it to each flea market event and it sits, just waiting for the Crosley collector to come along. The On-Line Flea Market is not E-bay. E bay sales rely heavily on the description supported by photos The Online flea market would be opposite, mainly photos supported by a few word and perhaps dimensions of the item. Also E bay charges insertion fees and a percentage of the sale for its fee structure. The On-Line Flea market would charge a flat referral fee for each successfully transaction. The intent is compensate the host for expenses with reasonable profit, not shareholders of a traded company. The On-Line Flea Market is not craigslist.org. Craigslist.org is an On-Line website that handles many different types of classified advertisements such as employment, jewelry, Personal ads, household goods, livestock, etc. It permits a poster to include photos which helps. Craigslist does not charge for their service which might seem attractive. The main problem with craigslist is it is very regional, mainly at the single county or parish level or in some cases multiple counties area. You can place ads in your immediate area and craigslist has special search filters to eliminate similar postings to adjacent areas. A benefit of the regional listings structure is you can usually pick up the item you’re viewing, getting it immediately and saving on shipping. Because of the regional nature you would have to search all counties in the every state in the US and Canada. Craigslist advertisements can be deleted by posters, which may present a conflict with other posters. Craigslist has its place for local classified needs, but does not solve the need for a central database of photos dedicated to just the car hobby. Factors why this will be an advantage to the car hobby. Attendance at large shows like Hershey have declined, mainly due to expenses like gasoline and lodging. Vendors that are far away from central Pennsylvania may choose not to make the hike with little promise that he’ll recoup his expenses or even break even. The same applies to buyers or collectors looking for certain parts, and applies to both US and foreign collectors. Over the past 5+ years there has been a steady rise in the number of foreign collectors in the car hobby. This trend is likely to continue. The On-Line Flea market would satisfy the need to bring collectors and vendors together that may not have had the opportunity any other way. On-Line Flea market Set Up and operation. The proposed On-Line Flea Market Could be hosted by a company well known and versed in the hobby such as Hemmings Motor News. Why HMN? The number of vendors advertising in the parts sections of HMN has been declining. Parts ads are mostly text and not pictorial and relies on the vendor knowing what he is selling. Advertising in HMN requires up-front fees which may be shying away potential customers. The On-Line Flea Market has no up-front fees making it the best possible financial situation for the vendor posting his parts, no investment. The company’s (e.g. HMN) reward would be the referral fee collected at the time of transaction. Potential problems of the On-Line Flea Market. 1. The part that the buyer purchased is not right. This is not different than current practices. It would be up to the vendor whether he honors returns. 2. The photos that posted are sized wrong. Digital photography and computer monitors do not need high resolution pictures or pictures that are large in size. There are methods that help determine if a picture is too large like that found on craigslist. 3. Picture is out of focus, bad lighting or has shadows. This would hurt the vendor posting the picture as a potential purchaser can’t recognize the item. A section of the On-Line Flea market would have a tutorial on what makes good photos and would include both good and bad examples. 4. SPAMERS can flood the On-line Flea market much like is done on E-bay. A poster could place ads for aftermarket products like AM/FM Satellite radios. This would have to have moderator intervention and which could lead to the possible expulsion of the poster. Chris Wantuck friartuck@monmouth.com

Car is a late 1925 to 1926 Model L Lincoln. Clues are the size/shape of the hubcap, the instrument cluster on the dashboard, and drum head lights with distinct radiator shell shape. ModeL L Lincolns share many chassis parts between these early years, not so much as engine parts. Note the down draft carb arrangement for this car. Must have been a necesscity. With a bit of patience, this could be a neat speedster project. There is a Lincoln Owner I know of looking for a trunk rack. The picture is cut off: is the rack still on this car? PM me for contact info. Check serial number on left side of Aluminum crank case to the listed numbers at: http://userpages.monmouth.com/~friartuck/lincoln/serial_numbers/serial_numbers.html Also check on the front passenger side seat area for a brass tag that will show body type and body number. Coampare to infor at: http://userpages.monmouth.com/~friartuck/lincoln Chris W.

Bernie, Isn't one reason to include some wood into the design as it provides a method for attaching (stapling) the material to the frame? I know you can use hogs rings for a seat cover arrangement to the lower metal frame. Is that the plan?? Also for that square channel, formed totally cold or was some heat involved? Chris

David, The pocket I referred to was an 12-18 inch wide inner soft panel that had the stayfast stitched with foam between the layers and edges finished that went along the framework lengthwise. It cushions the blunt edges the frame would leave along the tops edge as the top rounds from the horizontal to vertical surafaces. Chris

I agree with David's receommendation to use the Stayfast material and stay away from the Haartz cloth. Perhaps David can comment on including pockets into the top's design around the frame's edges (corners).

I've used the Muggy Weld pot metal low temp repair for decorative trim peices and I don't think it would be usefull for critical repair like a carb. I like Jon's suggestion using epoxy or Kwik Poly or more simply, seek a suitable substitute. Jon (Carbking) would likley be able to make some suggestions and if necessary make an adapter plate.

Isn't this a simple case of the permanent magnets have lost some of their magnatism and the generator simple can't produce enough output regardless of the 3rd brush position? Another possiblity is some of the field windings may have shorted internally. Comparing resistance measurements using an accurate Digital volt meter may help pinpoint a suspect coil. Would think a good field coil to be around 25-35 ohms. This has a cutout relay for the main output. I can't recall if there is a residual voltage that can be applied through the curout's coil to the field windings. The battery is just a load and should have no effect on the genrator's output

Bernie, on the high tension leads into the cap it looks like little bands crimped around the individual leads. The bands look like those if you were tracking a bird or wild animal. I don't remember seeing them on any other car.

Phil, Try preheating the brass tag in an oven at 250-300 for about 10-15 minutes. It makes the press-n-peel transfer better. Also the Industrial version (not the regualr one) of a Sharpie pen or simple black enamel paint will touch up the imperfections before the etching step. http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_07_fall.pdf Chris

McMaster-Carr

Bernie, An update on the tail light. The pictures offerred by Grandpa are correct only for 1st series six. Your tail light pictured with a horizontal oriented oval running light lens is for 2nd series only. The parts book shows it as part number 130000. The correct light for 3rd series six is a round light like the 2nd series, only the red running lens is round/cone shaped, not oval. That has part numbers of 135115 or 133404. 4th and 5th series use a three light arrangement like West posted earlier. Attached is a faithful recreation of the C.M. Hall Logo that would have been engraved on the top surface of the tail light bucket.

I like Mark's referral to American Nameplate. Looks crisp and clean. An article was written on how to make your own is at: http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_07_fall.pdf Also a good engraver that does true cut engraving of whatever font style you want is Joe Kostelnik, R.D. #4, Box 322, Greensburg, PA 15601-9804, (724) 832-0365.

Bernie, I'm more interested in what sealer you will use. The differance between alum and cast metals sometimes has oil leaks, so I'm interested in what sealer products that have been proven to avoid this problem. In past I have used a DOW product called Sealastic with mixed results.

Looking to purchase a Knurled Threaded Brass Cap as shown. This is the cap for a set of gas, oil and water running board containers. Its overall diameter is approximately 1 5/32 inch and width (height) is 3/8 inch. Thread dimensions are 31/32 inch for minor (inside) diameter and approximately one inch major diameter at 27 threads per inch (so is probably a 1 inch X 27). Contact Jules Baron at (732) 221-0269 or e-mail: terry649@verizon.net

Bernie, Would be interested in how-what you use for gasket and sealer between the Aluminum crankcase and the iron cylinder block. Include brands/part numbers where possible.

Peter, Have your contact whom you posted this for check the brass body tag under the front passenger side seat cushion. It will have TYPE and then a body number. Depending if this is the seven passenger version it may be TYPE 168A or 168B. My quick estimate is about $12-15K. Antique and Classic Automobile Restoration: Lincoln Model L Production Information

Model L Ring & Pinion Gears: http://forums.aaca.org/f198/model-l-ring-pinion-set-303655.html

McMaster-Carr has 1/16 sheets starting at $8.50 for a 12 inch X 12 inch sheet. 6 X 36 strip was $13. Cutting it out is a challenge, but you get to hone your gasket making skills.

Judging from David's response that the car body is not blocking the satellites, this could be indeed a Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) issue. RFI could be effecting the GPS unit from either through the antenna called Radiated Interference or through the power leads, called Conducted Interference. David reports the unit to works fine when the engine is off, so it is RFI. The key here is to isolated which is the culprit. Interesting that ply33 does not experience any RFI issues, but with a very differant type GPS unit. 1. Does the GPS unit operate nomally in the car under just its own battery power (not connected to the inverter) and the engine running?? The answer goes to eliminating conducted RFI. If conducted, 1) the inverter could be sending on to the GPS unit RFI that the inverter creates (necessary step in the inverter process) or 2) picking up ignition noise and passing it on it through the power leads. If yes it works correctly under its own battery, maybe adding filtering components or using power leads that are shielded may resolve. If no, then the inverter and conducted RFI is not the primary problem and it is Radiated problem. On my 1930 Lincoln I use a microprocessor based turn signal unit and it experienced problems from day one. Lincoln uses a dual ignition systm where the coils are mounted in the inside of the firewall and the distributor is at the front (long leads make good interference antennas). Replacing the two copper high tension leads from the coils to the distributor with carbon versions solved the problem. My problem may have been either Conducted or Radiated based, but nonetheless it got solved. The suppressor David used may not be enough. I don't think this is a vibration problem. If there were some vibrations, the suction cup would attenuate them to negligible amounts. The fact that it misbehaves more on the windshield could be a simple as its closer to the engine, closer to the RFI.

David, You don't say in your post what body style Packard, but if a sedan, is it possible this is simply a case of the car body is shielding the GPS? The metal sedan frame and the top's soft center that might have chicken wire might be preventing the GPS from seeing the satellites. On a modern car, the windshield is angled, so it does have a good view of the satellites upward. The flat windshield of the Packard maybe positioning the GPS to the edge of where it sees the sky. Does your GPS offer the use of an external antenna? These usually look like a small hockey puck and some are magnetic mount. Mount that on the outside of the car (hood or on top of the sedan body above the windshield) and see if it makes a differance. If your unit does not permit an external antenna then borrow one that does just to determine the problem. I don't think this is an interference problem from the ignition, though you could try to use the unit in the vehicle while the engine is off to rule that out. The GPS unit should have a diagnostic mode where it shows you on the screen the actual satelites the unit is seeing. Try that outside the vehicle and then hand carry into the car and note the differance. Please report back as this would be of interest to many of us. BTW, which inverter unit did you use?? I did an article on comparing inverter's few years ago and I'm curious. Chris

Maybe there is something to this......They put dimples in golf balls to break up the air.....

For Sale: Model L Ring & Pinion rear axle gear set. This is the straddle mount gear set for late 1928 through 1930 Model L Lincoln. Pinion gear has 15 teeth (approximately 4 1/8 inch diameter) and Ring gear has 53 teeth (approximately 12 1/4 inch diameter). Ring has eight mounting holes tapped at 1/2 inch coarse thread. Gear set manufactured in 6-84 (June 1984). Suitable for speedster. $300. Chris W. (732) 530-1917 friartuck@monmouth.com

Bernie, Thanks for taking the time to photo these and sharing. Have you considered the spring loaded water seal that was suggested earlier or are you set on using traditional gland packing material and the nut to snug it up?

I'll chime in with a short story, one handed down from relatively reliable sources. In Connecticut there is a 1927 Playboy Roadster on farm house type of property in a barn very near a river. The car was not running and needed a total resto. The river flooded one year and half the car was under water. The "rust line" midway up the doors was obvious. The owner passed on leaving it to his widow and based on friends and media, a value of $40K was set. A realistic value based on condition is about $4-5K. Many an individual has tried to purchase it with the same result, firm based on how rare is a Playboy. I suspect it will sit there till it becomes an Estate matter.

Bernie, I like the Chocolate Brown and Carmel combo myself. A soft top vehicle can be a little more vibrant than a sedan, even in 1921. Chris